Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

While JAR (a.k.a. Joel Arthur Rosenthal) may have a shop—and that shop may be in Place Vendôme—there’s no point in swinging by unless he’s accepted your appointment. After all, there isn’t even a sign, much less regular hours. Making only 70-80 pieces per year, this reclusive designer and Harvard grad may have come from humble roots (he’s the child of a biology teacher and Bronx postal worker), but he’s made jewelry for some of the world’s most beautiful women. Those who can’t get an original (he won’t sell a piece to someone unless he’s convinced it’s a match), can always pick something up at auction: A 2006 Christie’s sale of Ellen Barkin’s JAR collection featured 17 pieces, including a 22.76-carat diamond ring that fetched more than 1.8 million.

This just might be the best bookstore in the world. It has the vibe of a warren-like country home rather than a straightforward shop. Books are piled haphazardly from floor to ceiling (many of which are in English), there are benches dotted here and there, and it's staffed mostly by college kids who are full of great recommendations. It’s also home to a rich literary history—over the years, Shakespeare and Company has played host to famous American writers like Allen Ginsberg, Ernest Hemingway, William Burroughs, and William Styron. Founder George Whitman (the shop is now run by his daughter, Sylvia) famously opened up the shop’s cozy benches and couches to artists and writers who needed a place to stay. Many of these drifting creatives—or tumbleweeds, as they became known—went on to become important literary figures in their own right.

There are very few boutiques that fully embody an aesthetic, but L’Eclaireur does this perfectly—no small feat, considering there are seven very distinct shops scattered around the city, as well as a bar/restaurant that doubles as a shrine to Piero Fornasetti. Armand and Martine Hadida’s original outpost in 1980 was incredibly important for a number of reasons, most notably because L’Eclaireur was the first to break brands like Prada, Helmut Lang, Dries van Noten, and Martin Margiela in France. While the Hadidas have had every opportunity to rest on their laurels, the pace has been relentless ever since as they’ve continued to ferret out the world’s best new talent, in fashion, in jewelry, and in home goods. While the mix at every spot varies, we like the moodily gothic Place des Victoires location best. Under the light cast by a strange and fantastic bird chandelier, you’ll find Fornasetti umbrella stands, chunky chain link bracelets from Mawi, cashmere travel wraps by Denis Colombe, and coated Saint Laurent skinny jeans. If time allows, their most recent project shouldn’t be missed, either: They’ve taken a space in Habitat 1964’s vintage village at Les Puces, where they’re selling a smattering of archival fashion pieces along with furniture. The first U.S. outpost recently opened in Los Angeles.

As seems to be the way in Paris, Pierre Hardy was many things before he was a shoe designer. Initially, the Parisian-born Hardy was a professional dancer. And then he was an illustrator for Vogue Hommes. And then he went to Christian Dior to design shoes, before moving on to Hermès. While he launched his own, iconic collection in 1999, he’s never stopped working for other brands. He’s still the creative director of Hermès’ fine jewelry, and he does men’s and women’s shoes for Balenciaga. His space in the Palais Royal is dark and gothic, which is a pretty epic backdrop for his day-glo shoes and cube-patterned clutches; his second location in the Palais Bourbon is equally (wonderfully) gloomy. There's another store located in the 1st.

Lined in lush blue velvet, stepping into Lydia Courteille feels a bit like stepping into a music box. It’s a fittingly dream-like backdrop for her handcrafted pieces which take a deep bow to fantasy. Fire opals are set in the maws of lizards, and diamond fireflies sit on carved coral flowers: All of her jewelry is stunningly unusual.

Artistic Director Gaia Repossi has transformed her family’s old-world institution—which is the official jeweler to the Royal Family of Monaco—into a relevant and modern brand. Ear cuffs, black diamond-studded earrings, rings that span two digits, and collaborations with designers like Alexander Wang may not be the normal provenance of a nearly-century old jewelry house, but the decidedly cool results justify the departure.

While its décor is colorful and eye-catching, the shoes and bags here skew more toward the understated. It’s an interesting mix of French and American brands with an eye toward lowkey luxe. Laurence Dacade boots mingle with K. Jacques and Ancient Greek Sandals, along with a handful of streamlined satchels from brands like Alexandre Mareuil and Cahu.

Lines like Masscob, The New Society, and Xirena set the tone here, which is equal parts girly and refined.

Now two locations strong, French Trotters pretty much epitomizes what a great boutique should be: Beyond a host of exclusive collaborations, their buyers manage to zero in on the best and most relevant items from the lines they stock. Everything, from the perfectly turned out Michel Vivien sandals to Jerome Dreyfuss totes, seems like an important wardrobe building block. Meanwhile, don’t miss the very well-priced house label.

Though Maison Bonnet is still relatively little-known, almost everyone has seen the house’s glasses. After all, this fourth-generation, Maitre d’Art-recognized, family-run business, which was officially established in 1950, has made some of the most iconic frames around. Yves Saint Laurent, Le Corbusier, Jackie Onassis, and Jacques Chirac were all clients. While you won’t be able to pick up a pair at your local optometrist’s office, you can visit their appointment-only Paris outpost, which actually just opened in 2009 (the company operates out of a workshop in Sens, Burgundy). There, a master craftsman will map your entire face, measuring three different angles of your nose, the gap between your temples, the overall structure of your skull, the shape and tenor of your cheekbones and eyes, etc. One pair of glasses requires three visits (the final two can be condensed, for those who are visiting), and while they’re revered for their work in tortoise shell, they do more affordable versions in horn and acetate as well.

Nothing Martin Margiela turns out is particularly basic, but thanks to a muted palette and exquisite tailoring, everything is supremely wearable. The Belgian designer’s boots are always classic (if cerebral), and his jewelry is pretty cool, too. MM6, Maison Martin Margiela’s more reasonably priced line, is located in Galeries Lafayette.

Francis Kurkdjian's nose may be responsible for some big blockbuster scents (he created Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male at the beginning of his career—and then went on to do dozens more scents for pretty much every big fashion house around), but it's his special projects that we love best. He helped artist Sophie Calle bottle the smell of money in 2003, and in 2006 he re-created the scent of Marie Antoinette for an installation at Versailles. It's no surprise that at his namesake gallery-like boutiques in the 1st and 4th arrondissements, things are done a little differently: Perfumes are set against a wall of light, and the offerings go well beyond the traditional. His signature scents infuse everything from incense paper to leather bracelets to home sprays, and his now-famous traveling perfume case is on hand should you require a custom fragrance.

While officially part of Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, these two markets are distinct enough to stand on their own: Here's you'll find the more rarified antiques and easy proximity to the delicious restaurant Ma Cocette.

Though you'll likely recognize some of the big names here by their signature style, White Bird breaks new designers onto the scene, too. The vibe is low-key and unintimidating, making this a great resource for significant others who need some guidance and are in gift-buying mode.

Helmed by Audrey Halin and Marie Leonetti, two 30-somethings with an inarguably excellent knack for finding buried treasures, Bulle (which means Bubble in French) sells those treasures, reimagined. Whether it's a mid-century credenza that's been revitalized with a some cherry red paint, or a sturdy sideboard, inset with tiles, the pieces here don't feel retro or kitschy at all. They're fun and bright and wonderfully modern. There's also an in-house line of new pieces that are indistinguishable from their vintage peers (but obviously, not one of a kind).

So here's the deal: Sir Terence Conran's Habitat, which launched in England in 1964 with the sole premise of bringing affordable, useful, and beautiful everyday objects to the masses, pioneered the renovation of a massive former chandelier factory at Les Puces. And then they enlisted famed fashion retailer L'Eclaireur and a handful of venerable antiques dealers to join them in opening up shops. At Habitat, you'll find iconic vintage pieces from the company's past 40 years—all sourced from the staff and a general online appeal. If you're looking to unload a few Habitat pieces from years ago, you can likely sell them back here. Meanwhile, don't miss La Buvette in the complex, which traffics in cakes and excellent coffee.

With a palette of muted tones, and pieces that look like they belong in a sand-washed cabin on the beach, Caravane is a useful resource for unfussy linens—both for the bed and the table.

Flea market is a bit of a misnomer for Les Puces, which is inarguably the world’s most iconic: It’s a destination for antique and interiors lovers, and lined with the dealers that service them. You won’t find fledgling stalls—you’ll find full-on stores. In short: There’s no thrifting here, and very little that could be perceived as a bargain. The goods are gorgeous, though, and justify the high price tags.

Le Grand Salon, located at the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, is designed to offer a respite from the craziness of the city. The classic French cuisine and seasonal cocktails can easily stand on their own, but you'll enjoy them even more if you sit in the property’s hidden garden. The weekend brunch is legendary, and the intimate bar, Le Très Particulier, is worth a visit.

With the style of a ’40s British lounge, this is the perfect respite after a morning haul through the Louvre. They have a great value prix-fixe menu, but we usually come for a snack, savored over an international paper on one of the library room’s overstuffed leather couches. Creaky wooden floors, a constant stream of jazz, and a well-heeled clientele make any pitstop here feel like a dignified affair.

Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a delicious range of entrées and desserts. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat.

Named for their son, Ferdinand, owners Alicia and Jacques Fontanier decorated this tiny spot with artifacts and ephemera from his childhood. It’s a nice touch, as is the cheeseburger, which is known as one of Paris’s best. This spot is particularly big with a fashion crowd.

The bric-à-brac décor here is pretty irresistible, and it’s also the perfect backdrop for one of our favorite, out-of-the-way date night spots in Paris. The homestyle French cooking is as exuberant as the surroundings—and it’s topped off with excellent dessert.

Since the 1920’s, Caviar Kaspia has been offering a luxurious, old-world Russian experience—with a beautiful view of the Eglise de la Madeleine. Plush, and paneled in wood, there aren’t many surprises in the dining room: You’ll find top-shelf caviar, blinis, champagne, and loads of vodka. Be sure to call ahead for a table, as the restaurant no longer takes online reservations.

At 250 seats, this bustling, Phillipe Starck-designed restaurant has an industrial loft feel, which is actually a nice, modern antidote to the antique vendors in the surrounding flea. The food is feel-good French (ratatouille, green bean salad, steak frites), which is exactly what you want after a long morning of treasure-hunting at the Les Puces.

In Paris, charming little eateries are a dime a dozen, but this bistro is a true standout. Located just steps from the Musée d’Orsay on the left bank, it serves reasonably priced French fare (duck breast, eggplant, tarte tatin), excellent wine, all against a backdrop of a lipstick-red banquette and a caricature wall. This is a neighborhood spot that gets pretty packed with locals in the evenings, so don’t expect to run into too many tourists.

On summer nights, the crowds here spill out onto the streets; when winter’s chill descends, it’s one of the cozier spots in the Marais.

Situated on the quay of the Docks en Seine—also home to Paris's fashion institute—Wanderlust is a bit more than just a club/bar/restaurant. Though a small part of the enterprise lives indoors, it primarily resides on the sprawling outdoor terrace which overlooks the Seine. Exposed pipes, neon lights, live music (DJs, generally), and a stylish crowd are all hallmarks of this much-buzzed-about destination.

Leave it to the mind behind Twin Peaks and Blue Velvet to engineer Paris's most labyrinth-like club—in one of the city's most culturally significant buildings. Constructed in the late 19th century as a publishing press for France's leftist newspapers, Émile Zola printed "J'Accuse" there in 1898, and rumor has it that Molière might be buried in its hallowed ground. For its 2011 opening, David Lynch designed the entire, garret-like space himself, from the futuristic theater to the wood-block lined passageway to the '60s-style bar. Until midnight, it's a private club with screenings, talks, and private exhibits; after midnight, it's a full-on dance club with some of Europe's best DJs.

A wildly ornate bas-relief ceiling—moodily lit by Versailles-worthy chandeliers—is actually not the first indication that this isn't your average bar (that would be the gigantic birdcage at the entrance). Occupying the former mansion of composer Georges Bizet (hence the name, Carmen), this Pigalle club gets particularly busy around fashion week, when any number of designers host their after-parties here. While DJs play until 4 a.m. on weekends, the space hosts more-civilized affairs, too.

Smack in the middle of Paris’ Golden Triangle (Avenue Montaigne, the Champs-Élysées, and the Grand Palais), Martin Margiela—known and loved for his very specific and very conceptual spin on fashion—doesn’t immediately come to mind as a likely candidate for a hotel interior decorator. After all, his namesake boutiques tend to be impossible to find and packed with thrilling—though stark—design flourishes. But there’s nothing cold about Le Maison Champs-Elysée: It’s cool and other-worldly, but its architectural moments (neon signs, chairs draped to resemble ghosts, a rhomboid concierge desk) never compromise on comfort.

The Peninsula’s grand outpost in Paris delivers all the luxurious elegance we’ve come to expect from the brand. Housed in a 19th-century building perfectly suited to its style (it opened as a grand hotel back in 1908), the Peninsula is the kind of place where you can trust that no detail is spared. You’ll find enormous bouquets of fresh roses on every spare surface, an extremely attentive staff, and a guaranteed good night’s sleep in their beds. While the spa, bar, and main dining rooms are lovely, our favorite spot is the rooftop restaurant, which offers a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower.

A hotel inspired by the residences of great nineteenth-century writers and thinkers like Alexandre Dumas—hence the Monte Cristo reference—seems fitting for the Left Bank location. (The neighborhood has long been considered the center of gravity for Parisian intellectuals.) Let's start at the bottom: the pool, surrounded by plants and blue tile, is pretty, intimate, and so necessary after a day spent pounding the cobblestones. And the same goes for the sauna. The guest rooms (go for the boudoir option) are quietly luxurious with rich navy carpets, beautiful frescoes behind the headboards, and the softest white sheets. Touches like tapestries, sumptuous textiles, and painted wallpaper articulate the communal areas and look a lot like the furnishings the Count of Monte Cristo himself might have encountered during his travels. In a city where everyone goes out, staying in for a swim, a steam, and a rum cocktail at the hotel bar is incredibly appealing. The breakfast spread is also worth mentioning. It's served at the bar, and the pastry situation rivals that of the best bakeries in the city.

When a handful of city cemeteries were closed in the 18th and 19th centuries because they were overflowing and posed a threat to public health, the bodies of more than six million Parisians were relocated to a former quarry below the city. What's even gnarlier is that bones and skulls were used to create its walls. You can tour the labrynth-like ossuary—and theoretically visit the remains of notables like Rabelais and Robespierre—but this is not for the claustrophic, and probably not for kids.

The Foundation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, situated in a Jean Nouvel-designed glass building and fronted by a soaring garden wall, houses an important—and growing—contemporary art collection. Don’t miss their Nomadic Nights, when the Foundation invites contemporary artists to host evenings of concerts, screenings, lectures, and performances.

Built on the collection of co-founder Henri Langlois—who, with the help of friends, managed to smuggle most of his compendium of films out of France before the German Occupation—the Cinématheque Francaise houses one of the largest movie archives in the world. Though it's had a peripatetic existence, it's now housed in a Frank Gehry-designed building. There are exhibitions along with daily screenings of classics (and a restaurant on the ground floor).

Home to Paris's fashion institute, this rehabbed 1907 warehouse on the Seine—marked by an undulating lime green glass roof—also plays host to exhibition spaces and a handful of boutiques (many of which sell student work). The real draw, though, is the bar/club/rooftop restaurant called Wanderlust on the quay level. It occupies an outdoor terrace where you can catch an open-air screening or just sit in the sun.

In a wildly compelling juxtaposition, this museum pairs electronic music and digital arts with the facade of an original 19th-century theatre. While the exhibitions are great, try to catch a concert here—and cap it off with a cocktail at the bar.

Best known for giving Damien Hirst his first solo show in 1991, Galerie Perrotin trailblazed in the Asian art market (they also gave Takashi Murakami his first exhibition outside of Japan). Over the intervening years, Galerie Perrotin's pace hasn't dwindled: They continue to launch up-and-coming artists from around the globe.

Chez Valentin may be small in size, but it's big on ambition: The contemporary artwork here always pushes the envelope in the most compelling way.

This is Chantal Crousel's second location, offering the same reliably excellent mix of emerging and established artists from the contemporary art scene: In the past, she's exhibited talents like Cindy Sherman, Jenny Holzer, Sophie Calle, and Richard Prince.

Opened in 2006 in a soaring space designed by Jean Nouvel, this is part museum and part research/education center. You'll see a compendious display of objects and art from African, Oceanic, Asian, and American cultures that truly appeals to all ages. We always make any trip here revolve around lunch in order to take a pitstop at Les Ombres on the 5th floor: It has great views of the Eiffel Tower.

This is officially part of Les Artes Décoratifs (the main museum occupies the Western wing of the Louvre), but this is a great opportunity to tour a former private home and see pieces in situ. Incredibly intricate rugs, needlepoint chairs, and gorgeous table settings. Built in 1911 by Comte Moïse de Camondo, a Sephardic jew whose family made its fortune in banking in the Ottoman Empire, the house was left to his son, Nissim, who was killed in World War I; Moïse established the home as a museum in his honor. Years later, Moïse's daughter, Béatrice, and her family were killed in Auschwitz.

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, occupying the northwest wing of the Louvre, houses a massive collection of furniture, tapestries, ceramics, glassware, sculptures, paintings, and fashion dating from the 13th century to the present. If you’re into history and interior design, you’ll love it. But people really flock here for the temporary exhibitions, which often feature archival collections from iconic fashion houses like Dior, Dries Van Noten, and Iris van Herpen.

Thaddaeus Ropac opened his first gallery in Salzburg when he was only 23, followed by an outpost in Paris seven years later. He represents a host of international talents (including Anselm Keifer), and is known for ambitious exhibitions and plenty of guest star curators (including Sofia Coppola). Thaddaeus Ropac also opened a space in the Paris suburb of Pantin, which easily justifies a trip for collectors.

Paris's largest (and most historic) cemetery plays home to pretty much everyone you'd ever want to commune with after death: Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Georges-Pierre Seurat, Gertrude Stein, and Édith Piaf all rest here—plots are still available, but the waiting list is long.

Auguste Rodin donated his complete collection—including the pieces for which he's most famous like The Thinker and The Gates of Hell—to France so long as they promised to transform the very stately Hôtel Biron, which was his workshop from 1908 on, into a museum. There are thousands of his sculptures on-site, in both the museum's halls and scattered throughout the surrounding gardens, along with highlights from his personal art collection (Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, and Camille Claudel—who was his mistress, his student, and a great sculptor in her own right).

While the work of photographers like Helmut Newton might hypothetically seem too stark and modern for this rambling and elegant 18th century mansion, it's a combination that totally works: Beyond an impressive permanent collection, this museum always lands the exhibitions everyone is talking about, whether it's Shirin Neshat, Henri Cartier-Bresson, or Sebastião Salgado. Keep in mind that they're closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

It's rare to find a museum where you can see such a wide breadth of a single artist's work, but in this Marais manse (which dates back to the 1600s), you can see pieces from every period of Picasso's life. In addition, it also houses Picasso's personal art collection, which includes pieces from Cézanne, Rousseau, and Degas, as well as significant African art.

This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.

Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a market (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt).

This one-room wine bar requires a walk down a very long (and at night, scarily dark) passage, but the music, lively crowd, and simple but solid menu of French small plates justify the gauntlet. While Aux Deux Amis down the street may tempt with a similar wine bar concept, it gets way too packed: Au Passage, which also feels a bit more grown-up, easily wins out.

While it's not required, locals bring their own glass bottles and fill them with wine from the barrels near the door. This is not a place for picky oenophiles as the wine here is more the "house" variety, but it's still a great place to put back a few glasses with some small plates.

Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. Settle onto a velvet barstool, order a glass of champagne or a dirty martini, chat with the friendly bartenders, and order plates of onion rings and tartare on toast as the evening slips into night.

This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.

In true speakeasy fashion, this very-adored spot is behind an unmarked door, on a dimly lit, pedestrian-only alley. But beyond the appeal of being impossible-to-find, Parisians really come because they love the artful cocktails. It gets crowded after 11 and is generally packed on weekends; there are now outposts in New York City and London as well.

We turn to this frill-free vegan eatery when we need some steamed veggies, brown rice, and green tea after too many frites. They do takeout as well, which can be hard to find in this town.

While we’ve arguably had better Moroccan, Le 404 isn’t really about the food (though the lentils and chicken tagines are a welcome culinary break from beef bourguignon): It’s always a party, best capped off with a cocktail at Andy Wahloo next door (from the same owners). Keep in mind that Le 404 is also open on Sundays, a Parisian rarity.

This speakeasy-esque spot in the Marais is run by brothers Mourad and Hakim Mazouz and takes “homey atmosphere” to the next level. For one, it’s set up like a bohemian apartment, with diners taking their pick from the kitchen, dining room, boudoir, or living room—which has a ping-pong table in the center. Upstairs, a smoking lounge is hidden behind a secret doorway (in an antique armoire, naturally). The extreme comfort theme also applies to the menu, with steak frites taking top billing for dinner and an epic brunch spread on weekends.

The Marais is flush with casual dining spots, which means this two-story restaurant fits in perfectly. There are communal tables on the ground floor for larger parties and walk-ins, and the menu, though full of French delicacies, isn’t the least bit pretentious. The wine list is nicely reasonable, too, in both selection and price.

Pierre Jancou, who honed his skills at Paris’s popular Racines, opened this hip little mural-tiled restaurant on a windy street in the 10th. There’s a heavy focus on provenance here, especially with the wines, many of which are natural.

This café looks straight out of central casting: The large main room, complete with mirrored walls and dotted with paintings, is almost always packed. Despite the area's popularity with tourists, La Palette still feels undiscovered, as it’s predominantly peopled by locals.

At lunch, Kitchen is overrun with health-conscious Parisians who sidle up to the communal tables for salads, veggie stews, and cold-pressed juice.

Maisie Café brings a taste of LA juice culture to Paris. The brainchild of former luxury exec turned wellness enthusiast Isabella Capece, Maisie Café has an all-vegan, organic menu that reflects the more health-conscious direction many new Parisian spots are heading in. Breakfast is light, with acai bowls, granola, juices, and shakes. Lunch is pure West Coast in the sense that most of the dishes are bowl-based: brown rice or soba noodles topped with the freshest veggies, nuts, and seeds. The fashion pack who hit Paris for the shows are big fans of Maisie's cures—hot and cold soups, elixirs, and broths for every ailment, all available for delivery. If you do choose to sit in, the interior feels like a balmy escape to Miami with tropical-print walls and pastel seating.

A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & The Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—blue moon smoothies, golden lattes, and matcha mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call.

A sister to the absurdly popular Ober Mamma, Pink Mamma is a welcome Italian-centric addition to the very French dining scene in Pigalle. The four flights that take you up to the most Instagrammable dining room—it has a giant skylight for a roof!—are well worth the sore legs. There are plants everywhere, haphazardly placed furniture, mixed prints—in fact, the whole place might as well have been airlifted from Rome, right down to the menu. House-made pasta, grilled proteins, and really excellent pizza.

Close to Pigalle—Paris’s former red light district—Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood’s tawdry past. There’s a wee bit of erotica on the walls (making this not the best choice if you’re traveling with little ones...it’s like Paris’s version of Chateau Marmont), but the nightclub-esque space is still tasteful: The halls are lacquered in black, the art is cool, and a handful of the hotel’s rooms were designed by artists (Marc Newson, Sophie Calle, and Pierre LeTan all took interior decorating turns). The spaces are small, but that doesn’t really matter—the common areas, like the scene-y bar and outdoor terrace, are where you’ll want to spend most of your time anyway. The space was conceived by night life visionary André Saraiva, who is the force behind Le Baron—he knows how to throw a good party.

This elegantly restored hotel is a mere five minutes from Paris’s center of gravity, the Champs-Élysées, which really means it’s five minutes from everything. The first thing to note is that there is an actual hammam in the basement. After a long day of sightseeing, a few laps in the pool followed by a steam is a healing balm for exhausted feet and sore muscles. Aesthetically, the Art Deco influence is quietly done and hidden in the details, like the lamps, the restrained use of marble (and the not-so-restrained use of stripes to beautiful results), pretty velvet upholstery, even the occasional in-room porthole. Unbeatable location aside, the attentive staff and excellent service catapult this new hotel to the top of the short list of excellent places to stay. The adorably small hotel bar and the sexy dining room make leaving that much harder.

At Hôtel Belleval, the floral theme is obvious (the hallways are done in contrasting floral carpeting and wallpaper) but not overwhelming (the occasional petal-patterned cushion or upholstered armchair, the odd framed print of a rose or lily), just enough to pay homage to the botanist the hotel is dedicated to. All fifty-two guest rooms feel like a breath of fresh air with their elegant navy walls, floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the rooftops of Paris, and beautifully outfitted bathrooms. The hotel restaurant is refreshingly low-key with a natural, mostly organic menu that is the perfect antidote to too many plates of steak-frites. Additional perks are the interior courtyard which feels like a secret garden in the middle of the city and the library—a godsend for the traveler who needs to mix work with play.

Though it’s in the slightly far-flung 20th (which gets cooler every month), Mama Shelter wins big points for its reasonable prices. This burgeoning chainlet—with locations in Lisbon, Lyon, Marseille, and Bourdeaux—is a bit like the Ace Hotel family. The outposts attract a 20-something crowd by offering complimentary Wifi, free movies, and quirky design moments, like ceilings covered with chalkboard scrawl, Minnie Mouse nightlights, and an always-crowded bar.

This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.

It was only a matter of time before the food truck craze struck Paris. After all, Parisians are already accustomed to street-side crepe vendors. Pioneered by a Californian, Le Camion Qui Fume revolves around burgers of every variety (including veggie and pork) and the corresponding frites. The French are huge fans, so be prepared to wait around forty minutes; the truck's roving location is posted to its website. If that's not your style, they've also opened a few permanent locations around the city.

Whether you want a green juice to kick off what will otherwise be a day of gluttony, or need a palate-cleanser after a string of rich French meals, this tiny space offers a respite. Besides cold-pressed juice (Paris’s first foray into that space), you’ll find locals feasting on quinoa salads and veggie-laden muffins at the communal table.

This lablike Left Bank coffee house is owned by two pals (one Australian, one French)—and it offers so much more than standard espresso. Like so many Parisian cafés, this one has an indoor/outdoor seating situation making it a people-watching paradise. But you can actually get some work done, too—the interior is soothing, the Wi-Fi is free, and tables are roomy enough to spread out. You can also grab a quick breakfast or soup-and-salad lunch.

It's all baked on-site at this latest venture from Bob, from the hand-rolled bagels to the lattice-topped pies. While the menu channels America, the prices are a bit higher than what you'd expect to pay in the states for a shmear. It's still delicious, and fulfills that very specific only-a-bagel-will-do desire.

Invariably, when you see an Isabel Marant, you'll see an outpost of Jerome Dreyfuss. Not only is there a subtly shared aesthetic, but Jerome and Isabel are married. For the most part, the bags here are perfectly slouchy, and the shoes are kind of exactly what you want for a low-key weekend in the city.

Known for making the ideal version of everyday staples, you can always rely on A.P.C. for perfectly considered trench coats, dark wash jeans, and striped tops that are just the right thickness. Men, in particular, always strike gold here since their simple shapes easily elevate any outfit without ever trying too hard (guys who struggle to find well-fitting jeans should definitely take look here). While there are nine outposts across the city, we like this one best; meanwhile, don't miss the outlet in the 18th, where everything is always 50 percent off. There are other locations in the 3rd (Rue Vielle du Temple, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire), the 1st, 6th, 10th, and the 17th.

Isabel Marant has done a pretty amazing job of building a slavishly devoted fan base: It's partly because her clothes used to be nearly impossible to find unless you bought a ticket to Paris, and partly because she nails a bohemian-meets-modern aesthetic that always just works.

Lace-trimmed shirts, pointelle peasant blouses, and delicate floral prints are signature tricks of the eponymous line here. They do it really well.

Part café, part boutique, attention to detail is paramount at this minimalist space, whether it's the streamlined shape of a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Prada loafers, or the perfect cappucino and slice of cake.

It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, profits go to charities in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; natural shampoos and Comme des Garçons perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting the Used Book Café in the basement, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch.

Large and loftlike, this industrial-feeling store has an ambitious mandate: fair-trade clothing and accessories from little-known and established artisan brands, mixed in with a smattering of vintage furniture, art books, records, and indie zines. If you've got little ones, don't miss the outpost devoted to kids.

Regardless of what the skies bring, you'll always find a seemingly endless row of tables at this outdoor, year-round flea. Unlike the situation at Les Puces, there are treasures for those who are willing to dig.

This shop literally spans a block—and what feels like a big block. Inside, you'll find every iteration of every modern home trend, which can overwhelm, but if you can take the time to really look, you'll find tons to lug home.

Tucked away underground beneath the Louvre (there's a mini mall down there with the Mona Lisa, including an Apple Store) is the only Delfonics store outside of Japan. The brand specializes in precise, beautiful, and modern office supplies and stationery, like the perfect pen, stapler, and notebook. It also does fashion collabs, like Delfonics for Carven.

Started by three brothers (whose family made its fortune from French brand, Comptoir des Cotonniers), this brand splashed out across Paris aggressively and loudly. Their ad campaigns—of stylish couples who both look, and dress alike—are a good reflection of the subtly tough and subtly unisex wares here. Leather bomber jackets, graphic t-shirts, and streamlined sweaters are all part of the mix.

You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee.

Love Stories hails from Amsterdam, but the lingerie is so delicate, it may as well be Parisian. The matching sets, which come in varying degrees of skimpiness, are a good place to start. We love the selection of supremely comfortable bralettes in cotton and lace for traveling, or just lounging in. There’s also a smart edit of accessories, and somehow, we can never leave the store without adding a silk sleep mask or floral-print laundry bag (so convenient for storing underwear or purses) to our basket.

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

Plagued by stomach pains, Marine “Mirz” Parmentier found relief in yoga and became obsessed, leaving her communications job to train in India. She founded Mirz Yoga, where you can take Hatha, Pranayama, and R&B Yoga classes designed for all levels, including prenatal and children.

La Fantaisie has a rooftop bar, an all-day café, and a dreamy restaurant in a solarium. At the spa, guests enjoy body and facial treatments using the French beauty brand Holidermie and unwind in the spa’s baths, sauna, and hammam. It’s not far from Pigalle’s main drag. But even if none of the above were the case, we’d have fallen in love with this hotel for its pastel palette: light wood, blush, butter yellow, pistachio, and misty blue.

Le Pigalle captures the historic charm of a neighborhood best known for high-energy night clubs, raunchy cabarets, and neon lights. (Note the dance pole in the lobby and the sensual artwork in the bedrooms.) Le Pigalle’s café and bar is a draw, even if you’re not staying there: It’s easy to while the evening away on one of its overstuffed couches, snacking on tapas and sipping generous cocktails, until the jukebox turns on or the local DJ hits the decks and people start to dance.

Bouillon Pigalle is a restaurant of the proletariat. Though it would be more accurate to call it a restaurant of the proletariat of Paris who favor watercress salad, escargots, beef bourguignon, frites, and a menu that is as true to a bistro menu as it can be. Historically, in French restaurant vernacular, a "bouillon" is a restaurant that served bouillon-which is to say good, afforable food, that appealed to the working class. And Bouillon Pigalle is the modern version: 300 seats; a festive, bustling vibe; and a crowd willing to wait the better part of an hour for table. No matter. The profiteroles are that good.

It takes nerve (and talent) for an American to take a French concept and re-create it for a famously hard-to-please Parisian audience. In chef Jody Williams's case, her French-inspired wine bar, Buvette, has been embraced with open arms. She tested the concept in New York first—there is a much-loved West Village outpost—and exported her gastrothèque to Paris, to rave reviews. In this romantic, perfectly Parisian little wine bar, you can expect a wonderful cocktail and wine list, and a petite menu of small versions of dishes like coq au vin, moules, and tartines. They also serve several local, seasonal salads—good ones are still hard to find in many traditional French restaurants.

It would be silly to go to Paris for a smashburger—so prioritize accordingly—but Dumbo does them really well. Expect the classic fixings: American cheese, extra-crispy French fries, and Heinz ketchup, for here or to go.

Smack in the middle of Montmartre, this is a perfect quick pit stop for salads, roast chicken, and côte de boeuf—at great prices.

The tasting menu at Minore might baffle you at first glance. But by the time you finish your first course, you’ll wonder why you haven’t seen black mullet paired with strawberries before. Minore’s inventive menu is the work of chef Katsuaki Okiyama, whose previous restaurant, Abri, firmly kicked off a wave of Japanese-French dining in Paris. The cocktails here are just as surprising and wonderful as the food, thanks to Okiyama’s partner, bartender Hugo Cobe. Try the margarita, made with wasabi, passionfruit, and cherry vinegar.

The name and the pinup poster in the entryway hint at this Pigalle bar’s seedier past as a brothel, but take a closer look and you’ll find yourself in a full-fledged tiki bar, overflowing with pseudo-Polynesian flair. If the excellent rum-based drinks and retro vibe aren’t really your thing, then the other, perfectly balanced proprietary cocktails and extensive beer collection should keep you happy.

Pigalle is home to some of the city’s best nightlife, and Django is one of the most lively bars in the neighborhood for drinks and nibbles. They craft signature cocktails and small plates driven by whatever is freshest and most delicious this season.

Located close to what was once Paris's red-light district, Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood's tawdry past. Conceived by nightlife visionary André Saraiva (the force behind Le Baron), the black lacquered bar, brasserie, and outdoor terrace are as scene-y as you can get in Paris. Whether for a boozy Saturday brunch or dinner and drinks, the best seats in the house are outdoors, in the leafy courtyard dotted with vintage ’50s cafeteria tables. The brasserie is open late, and you can linger on for hours until it's time to hit the bar or a nightclub in nearby Pigalle.

The exterior of À la Mère de Famille—an emerald-green storefront with more windows than walls—looks like a jewelry box, or rather, a chocolate box; you can see the cakes and chocolates and towers of beautifully packaged bars from down the block. Open since 1761, one of the many pleasures of this particular confectioner is the breadth of old-world caramels, nougat, boiled sweets, and marshmallows. And nothing much has changed inside, either. Taking in the old tile floor, the floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with preserves and syrups, and the elaborate table displays as you make your way to the counter is an exercise in both nostalgic pleasure and control.

Expect a line at Mamiche. It’s worth the wait for ham and cheese rolls, hand-kneaded sourdough, fluffy brioche, chewy canelés, cinnamon buns, and some insane chocolate chip cookies. There's another location in République, plus a sandwich shop, Mamiche Traiteur.

Marché Barbès is underneath a train trestle at the Barbès Metro station, and the rumble of the trains above only adds to the boisterous atmosphere of the place, which is always packed to the brim with shoppers rushing around and haggling with vendors. The goods here can be much less expensive than those in other markets around town, and while you probably won’t find a rare artisanal cheese, you can stock up on necessities for the week without breaking the bank.

Following in the footsteps of third-wave coffee shops Noir and Ten Belles, indie roaster Momus aims to elevate the standard of coffee in Paris. Founder Lionel Giraud—former artistic director of Chaumet and alumnus of Cartier and Courrèges—focuses on environmentally conscious sourcing, complex flavor, and beautiful presentation. (Each box of coffee is elegantly packaged; they would make great hostess gifts.) The Momus shop is more boutique than café, but the knowledgeable baristas are happy to make you an espresso from their vast collection of beans.

Parisians swear Pierre Hermé's macarons are the best in town, and we're inclined to agree. After all, the pastry wunderkind (he began his career as an apprentice to Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, before becoming the pastry chef of Fauchon when he was only 24) is known for infusing his ganaches with interesting combinations, like his famous Ispahan, which blends rose, lychee, and raspberry. The chocolates and croissants shouldn't be missed either.

Both the original in the 9th and the Tea Room are the kinds of Parisian pastry shops you might dream of, with pretty tiled floors, powder-blue walls, old-world display cases, and dainty packaging. Both spots are great for stocking up on everything from molded chocolates to macarons, as well as traditional sweets, jams, and marmalades to take home as gifts, though you’ll also want to grab a crème-filled pastry for the ride.

Launched by the son of the founders of Bonpoint, Bonton is styled like a department store for minis: Heart-shaped cushions, bedside lamps cast in the shape of geese, knitted rattles, strawberry-printed crib sheets, stationery, tutus, and toys mingle with the house line of adorable basics.

This is one of those French institutions that's impossible to miss: You can pretty much buy everything here, from a Chanel bag to truffles. It’s great for tourists in particular, since they can streamline the VAT process. Don’t miss the roof, which offers pretty epic views of Paris.

If you visit the Musée d’Orsay and find yourself mesmerized by the work of Symbolist painter Gustave Moreau, you’d be stunned by the museum dedicated to his intricate and fantastical oeuvre. The Musée Gustave Moreau, which is nestled into a grand apartment that was once the artist’s home and studio, holds thousands of Moreau’s paintings, pastels, and watercolors—including tons of sketches and unfinished pieces. His paintings often depict allegories, biblical scenes, and mythological dramas in wild detail and vivid color.

Though it's arguably most famous for being the backdrop to Gaston Leroux's The Phantom of the Opera, its real acclaim comes from the fact that it's a stunningly opulent Second Empire masterpiece. While in its first life it was home to the Paris Opera, it now hosts the Ballet. It's absolutely worth making a night of it if only to see the Grand Foyer.

Located at the summit of the butte Montmartre—the highest point in the city—a 234-step climb affords spectacular, panoramic views of Paris.