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Kitchen

3rd Arrondissement, Paris, France

why we love it

At lunch, Kitchen is overrun with health-conscious Parisians who sidle up to the communal tables for salads, veggie stews, and cold-pressed juice.

Originally featured in The Paris Hipster Guide

category

Restaurants

price

$$

highlights
  • Good For Kids
Kitchen

74 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd

phone number

+33.9.52.55.11.66

hours

Mon-Fri: 8am-2:30pm

Sat-Sun: 8am-3:30pm

visit website

more from city guides

Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 2 Allée de la Cascade, 19th

This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.

Le Verre Volé

Le Verre Volé

67 Rue de Lancry, 10th

Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a market (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt).

Au Passage

Au Passage

1 Bis Passage St. Sébastien, 11th

This one-room wine bar requires a walk down a very long (and at night, scarily dark) passage, but the music, lively crowd, and simple but solid menu of French small plates justify the gauntlet. While Aux Deux Amis down the street may tempt with a similar wine bar concept, it gets way too packed: Au Passage, which also feels a bit more grown-up, easily wins out.

Le Baron Rouge

Le Baron Rouge

1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 12th
Mon: 5pm-10pm
Tues-Thurs: 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Fri-Sat: 10am-10pm
Sun: 10am-4pm

While it's not required, locals bring their own glass bottles and fill them with wine from the barrels near the door. This is not a place for picky oenophiles as the wine here is more the "house" variety, but it's still a great place to put back a few glasses with some small plates.

Rivié

Rivié

30-32 Rue du Sentier, 2nd
Sun-Weds: 7am-12:30am
Thurs-Sat: 7am-1:30am

Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. Settle onto a velvet barstool, order a glass of champagne or a dirty martini, chat with the friendly bartenders, and order plates of onion rings and tartare on toast as the evening slips into night.

Candelaria

Candelaria

52 Rue de Saintonge, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 5pm-2am
Sat-Sun: 12pm-2am

This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.

Experimental Cocktail Club

Experimental Cocktail Club

37 Rue St. Sauveur, 2nd
Mon-Sat: 7pm-2am
Sun: 8pm-2am

In true speakeasy fashion, this very-adored spot is behind an unmarked door, on a dimly lit, pedestrian-only alley. But beyond the appeal of being impossible-to-find, Parisians really come because they love the artful cocktails. It gets crowded after 11 and is generally packed on weekends; there are now outposts in New York City and London as well.

Grand Appétit

Grand Appétit

9 Rue de la Cerisaie, 4th
Permanently Closed

We turn to this frill-free vegan eatery when we need some steamed veggies, brown rice, and green tea after too many frites. They do takeout as well, which can be hard to find in this town.

Le 404

Le 404

69 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm

While we’ve arguably had better Moroccan, Le 404 isn’t really about the food (though the lentils and chicken tagines are a welcome culinary break from beef bourguignon): It’s always a party, best capped off with a cocktail at Andy Wahloo next door (from the same owners). Keep in mind that Le 404 is also open on Sundays, a Parisian rarity.

Derriere

Derriere

69 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 12pm-2pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-11pm

This speakeasy-esque spot in the Marais is run by brothers Mourad and Hakim Mazouz and takes “homey atmosphere” to the next level. For one, it’s set up like a bohemian apartment, with diners taking their pick from the kitchen, dining room, boudoir, or living room—which has a ping-pong table in the center. Upstairs, a smoking lounge is hidden behind a secret doorway (in an antique armoire, naturally). The extreme comfort theme also applies to the menu, with steak frites taking top billing for dinner and an epic brunch spread on weekends.

Glou

Glou

101 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Thurs: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sat: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-11:30pm
Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30-10:30pm

The Marais is flush with casual dining spots, which means this two-story restaurant fits in perfectly. There are communal tables on the ground floor for larger parties and walk-ins, and the menu, though full of French delicacies, isn’t the least bit pretentious. The wine list is nicely reasonable, too, in both selection and price.

Vivant 2

Vivant 2

43 Rue des Petites-Ecuries, 10th

Pierre Jancou, who honed his skills at Paris’s popular Racines, opened this hip little mural-tiled restaurant on a windy street in the 10th. There’s a heavy focus on provenance here, especially with the wines, many of which are natural.

La Palette

La Palette

43 Rue de Seine, 6th

This café looks straight out of central casting: The large main room, complete with mirrored walls and dotted with paintings, is almost always packed. Despite the area's popularity with tourists, La Palette still feels undiscovered, as it’s predominantly peopled by locals.

Maisie Café

Maisie Café

32 Rue du Mont Thabor, 1st
Mon-Fri: 9am-5:30pm
Sat: 10am-5pm

Maisie Café brings a taste of LA juice culture to Paris. The brainchild of former luxury exec turned wellness enthusiast Isabella Capece, Maisie Café has an all-vegan, organic menu that reflects the more health-conscious direction many new Parisian spots are heading in. Breakfast is light, with acai bowls, granola, juices, and shakes. Lunch is pure West Coast in the sense that most of the dishes are bowl-based: brown rice or soba noodles topped with the freshest veggies, nuts, and seeds. The fashion pack who hit Paris for the shows are big fans of Maisie's cures—hot and cold soups, elixirs, and broths for every ailment, all available for delivery. If you do choose to sit in, the interior feels like a balmy escape to Miami with tropical-print walls and pastel seating.

Wild & The Moon

Wild & The Moon

55 Rue Charlot, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 8am-9pm
Sun: 9am-9pm

A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & The Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—blue moon smoothies, golden lattes, and matcha mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call.

Pink Mamma

Pink Mamma

20 bis Rue de Douai, 9th
Mon-Wed: 12pm-2:15pm, 6:45pm-10:45pm
Thurs-Fri: 12pm-2:15pm, 6:45pm-11pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm-4:15pm, 6:15pm-11pm

A sister to the absurdly popular Ober Mamma, Pink Mamma is a welcome Italian-centric addition to the very French dining scene in Pigalle. The four flights that take you up to the most Instagrammable dining room—it has a giant skylight for a roof!—are well worth the sore legs. There are plants everywhere, haphazardly placed furniture, mixed prints—in fact, the whole place might as well have been airlifted from Rome, right down to the menu. House-made pasta, grilled proteins, and really excellent pizza.

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

23 Ave. Junot Pavillon D, 18th

This intimate maison—the former home of the Hermès family—has just five guest rooms, each one distinct: One has luxe bachelor pad vibes, done up in black marble and leopard print wallpaper; another is light and airy, with details that call in the lush, ivy-lined courtyards that surround the building. Speaking of: This place has one of the biggest and prettiest gardens of any Paris hotel, with gravel courtyards, lush ivy, and wrought iron bistro tables. Dedicate an evening to dinner in the loungey dining room, Le Grand Salon,, and drinks at the glowing, gilded bar, Le Très Particulier.

Hôtel Amour

Hôtel Amour

8 Rue de Navarin, 9th

Close to Pigalle—Paris’s former red light district—Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood’s tawdry past. There’s a wee bit of erotica on the walls (making this not the best choice if you’re traveling with little ones...it’s like Paris’s version of Chateau Marmont), but the nightclub-esque space is still tasteful: The halls are lacquered in black, the art is cool, and a handful of the hotel’s rooms were designed by artists (Marc Newson, Sophie Calle, and Pierre LeTan all took interior decorating turns). The spaces are small, but that doesn’t really matter—the common areas, like the scene-y bar and outdoor terrace, are where you’ll want to spend most of your time anyway. The space was conceived by night life visionary André Saraiva, who is the force behind Le Baron—he knows how to throw a good party.

Hôtel du Rond Point des Champs-Élysées

Hôtel du Rond Point des Champs-Élysées

10 Rue de Ponthieu, 8th

This elegantly restored hotel is a mere five minutes from Paris’s center of gravity, the Champs-Élysées, which really means it’s five minutes from everything. The first thing to note is that there is an actual hammam in the basement. After a long day of sightseeing, a few laps in the pool followed by a steam is a healing balm for exhausted feet and sore muscles. Aesthetically, the Art Deco influence is quietly done and hidden in the details, like the lamps, the restrained use of marble (and the not-so-restrained use of stripes to beautiful results), pretty velvet upholstery, even the occasional in-room porthole. Unbeatable location aside, the attentive staff and excellent service catapult this new hotel to the top of the short list of excellent places to stay. The adorably small hotel bar and the sexy dining room make leaving that much harder.

Hôtel Belleval

Hôtel Belleval

16 Rue de la Pépinière, 8th

At Hôtel Belleval, the floral theme is obvious (the hallways are done in contrasting floral carpeting and wallpaper) but not overwhelming (the occasional petal-patterned cushion or upholstered armchair, the odd framed print of a rose or lily), just enough to pay homage to the botanist the hotel is dedicated to. All fifty-two guest rooms feel like a breath of fresh air with their elegant navy walls, floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the rooftops of Paris, and beautifully outfitted bathrooms. The hotel restaurant is refreshingly low-key with a natural, mostly organic menu that is the perfect antidote to too many plates of steak-frites. Additional perks are the interior courtyard which feels like a secret garden in the middle of the city and the library—a godsend for the traveler who needs to mix work with play.

Mama Shelter Paris East

Mama Shelter Paris East

109 Rue de Bagnolet, 20th

Though it’s in the slightly far-flung 20th (which gets cooler every month), Mama Shelter wins big points for its reasonable prices. This burgeoning chainlet—with locations in Lisbon, Lyon, Marseille, and Bourdeaux—is a bit like the Ace Hotel family. The outposts attract a 20-something crowd by offering complimentary Wifi, free movies, and quirky design moments, like ceilings covered with chalkboard scrawl, Minnie Mouse nightlights, and an always-crowded bar.

Miznon

Miznon

22 Rue des Ecouffes, 4th
Sun-Thurs: 12pm-11pm
Fri: 12pm-4pm

This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.

Le Camion Qui Fume

Le Camion Qui Fume

It was only a matter of time before the food truck craze struck Paris. After all, Parisians are already accustomed to street-side crepe vendors. Pioneered by a Californian, Le Camion Qui Fume revolves around burgers of every variety (including veggie and pork) and the corresponding frites. The French are huge fans, so be prepared to wait around forty minutes; the truck's roving location is posted to its website. If that's not your style, they've also opened a few permanent locations around the city.

Bob’s Juice Bar

Bob’s Juice Bar

15 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 10th

Whether you want a green juice to kick off what will otherwise be a day of gluttony, or need a palate-cleanser after a string of rich French meals, this tiny space offers a respite. Besides cold-pressed juice (Paris’s first foray into that space), you’ll find locals feasting on quinoa salads and veggie-laden muffins at the communal table.

Coutume

Coutume

47 Rue de Babylone, 7th
Mon-Fri: 8:30am-5:30pm
Sat-Sun: 9am-6pm

This lablike Left Bank coffee house is owned by two pals (one Australian, one French)—and it offers so much more than standard espresso. Like so many Parisian cafés, this one has an indoor/outdoor seating situation making it a people-watching paradise. But you can actually get some work done, too—the interior is soothing, the Wi-Fi is free, and tables are roomy enough to spread out. You can also grab a quick breakfast or soup-and-salad lunch.

Bob’s Bake Shop

Bob’s Bake Shop

12 Esplanade Nathalie Sarraute, 18th
Mon-Fri: 8am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-2:30pm

It's all baked on-site at this latest venture from Bob, from the hand-rolled bagels to the lattice-topped pies. While the menu channels America, the prices are a bit higher than what you'd expect to pay in the states for a shmear. It's still delicious, and fulfills that very specific only-a-bagel-will-do desire.

Jerome Dreyfuss

Jerome Dreyfuss

4 Rue Jacob, 6th
Mon-Fri: 11am-7pm
Sat: 11am-7:30pm

Invariably, when you see an Isabel Marant, you'll see an outpost of Jerome Dreyfuss. Not only is there a subtly shared aesthetic, but Jerome and Isabel are married. For the most part, the bags here are perfectly slouchy, and the shoes are kind of exactly what you want for a low-key weekend in the city.

A.P.C.

A.P.C.

23 Rue Royale, 8th

Known for making the ideal version of everyday staples, you can always rely on A.P.C. for perfectly considered trench coats, dark wash jeans, and striped tops that are just the right thickness. Men, in particular, always strike gold here since their simple shapes easily elevate any outfit without ever trying too hard (guys who struggle to find well-fitting jeans should definitely take look here). While there are nine outposts across the city, we like this one best; meanwhile, don't miss the outlet in the 18th, where everything is always 50 percent off. There are other locations in the 3rd (Rue Vielle du Temple, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire), the 1st, 6th, 10th, and the 17th.

Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant

59 Rue de Seine, 6th

Isabel Marant has done a pretty amazing job of building a slavishly devoted fan base: It's partly because her clothes used to be nearly impossible to find unless you bought a ticket to Paris, and partly because she nails a bohemian-meets-modern aesthetic that always just works.

Mes Demoiselles

Mes Demoiselles

21 Rue St. Sulpice, 6th
Mon-Sat: 10:30am-2pm, 3pm-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-2pm, 3pm-6pm

Lace-trimmed shirts, pointelle peasant blouses, and delicate floral prints are signature tricks of the eponymous line here. They do it really well.

The Broken Arm

The Broken Arm

12 Rue Perrée, 3rd
Mon: 1pm-7pm
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm

Part café, part boutique, attention to detail is paramount at this minimalist space, whether it's the streamlined shape of a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Prada loafers, or the perfect cappucino and slice of cake.

Merci

Merci

111 Blvd. Beaumarchais, 3rd
Sun-Wed: 10:30am-7:30pm
Thurs-Sat: 10:30am-8pm

It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, profits go to charities in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; natural shampoos and Comme des Garçons perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting the Used Book Café in the basement, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch.

Centre Commercial

Centre Commercial

2 Rue de Marseille, 10th
Mon–Sat: 11am–8pm
Sun: 2pm–7pm

Large and loftlike, this industrial-feeling store has an ambitious mandate: fair-trade clothing and accessories from little-known and established artisan brands, mixed in with a smattering of vintage furniture, art books, records, and indie zines. If you've got little ones, don't miss the outpost devoted to kids.

Marché aux Puces de Vanves

Marché aux Puces de Vanves

Ave. Georges Lafenestre, 14th

Regardless of what the skies bring, you'll always find a seemingly endless row of tables at this outdoor, year-round flea. Unlike the situation at Les Puces, there are treasures for those who are willing to dig.

Fleux

Fleux

39 & 52 Rue St. Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4th
Sun-Fri: 10:45am-8:30pm
Sat: 10:15am-8:30pm

This shop literally spans a block—and what feels like a big block. Inside, you'll find every iteration of every modern home trend, which can overwhelm, but if you can take the time to really look, you'll find tons to lug home.

Delfonics

Delfonics

Carrousel du Louvre, 99 Rue de Rivoli, 1st

Tucked away underground beneath the Louvre (there's a mini mall down there with the Mona Lisa, including an Apple Store) is the only Delfonics store outside of Japan. The brand specializes in precise, beautiful, and modern office supplies and stationery, like the perfect pen, stapler, and notebook. It also does fashion collabs, like Delfonics for Carven.

The Kooples

The Kooples

74 Rue Bonaparte, 6th
Mon: 11am-7pm
Tues-Fri: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sat: 10:30am-8pm

Started by three brothers (whose family made its fortune from French brand, Comptoir des Cotonniers), this brand splashed out across Paris aggressively and loudly. Their ad campaigns—of stylish couples who both look, and dress alike—are a good reflection of the subtly tough and subtly unisex wares here. Leather bomber jackets, graphic t-shirts, and streamlined sweaters are all part of the mix.

Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

5 Rue des Filles du Calvaire, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-7:30pm
Sat: 11am-8pm
Sun: 1:30pm-7pm

You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee.

Love Stories Paris

Love Stories Paris

75 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7pm
Sun: 2pm-7pm

Love Stories hails from Amsterdam, but the lingerie is so delicate, it may as well be Parisian. The matching sets, which come in varying degrees of skimpiness, are a good place to start. We love the selection of supremely comfortable bralettes in cotton and lace for traveling, or just lounging in. There’s also a smart edit of accessories, and somehow, we can never leave the store without adding a silk sleep mask or floral-print laundry bag (so convenient for storing underwear or purses) to our basket.

Maison Labiche

Maison Labiche

105 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-7pm

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

Mirz Yoga

Mirz Yoga

145 Rue de Belleville, 19th

Plagued by stomach pains, Marine “Mirz” Parmentier found relief in yoga and became obsessed, leaving her communications job to train in India. She founded Mirz Yoga, where you can take Hatha, Pranayama, and R&B Yoga classes designed for all levels, including prenatal and children.

Le Grand Mazarin

Le Grand Mazarin

17 Rue de la Verrerie, 4th

It’s impossible to choose our favorite thing about this glamorous Le Marais hotel: the stripe-bottomed pool with a ceiling fresco by artist Jacques Merle? The in-room beauty bar menu from Oh My Cream that delivers Augustinus Bader, Tata Harper, and more to your door in 30 minutes or less? The rich design that feels as if you've entered a Wes Anderson film? Swedish interior designer Martin Brudnizki took inspiration from the salon culture of the Enlightenment, mixing eclectic prints, beautiful textures, French-artisan-made furnishings, and antiques from Paris flea markets. It’s the fourth luxury property from family-owned boutique hotel group Maisons Pariente—and in true Maisons Pariente fashion, expect elegance and exceptional service. Don’t miss dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant, Boubalé, by Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit.

SO/ Paris

SO/ Paris

10 Rue Agrippa d'Aubigné, 4th

This stylish hotel, squeezed between the Marais and Bastille districts, has a front-row views of the Seine and Île Saint-Louis. Terrazzo marble floors reflect the cobblestone streets of Paris. The lobby is spectacular, with giant pillars, amber-glass mirrored walls, and a striking painting by French-Algerian artist Neïl Beloufa. And the hotel collaborates with artists, florists, and brands on rotating pop-ups. The 162 rooms are sleek and modern, and categorized by view. We love the details like warming-towel racks, bulldog-shaped speakers, and floating nightstands. There’s a fitness center, pool, and intimate Codage spa. (Book ahead for the “haute-couture” massage—it’s fantastic.)

Bonhomie

Bonhomie

22 Rue d'Enghien, 10th

If you've overindulged on steak-frites and can't handle the thought of another buttery sole meunière, eschew the delicious but heavy bistro classics for some Mediterranean at Bonhomie. A café meets cocktail bar meets restaurant near the chic Marais district, sitting on a royal-blue leather stool in the beautiful, modern, white-and-gold interior feels like a breath of fresh air. The menu leans on Moroccan influences with a former Frenchie chef at the helm—dishes like minty chickpeas and labneh and harissa lamb with tabbouleh take center stage. If you happen to pass by at an odd afternoon hour, a coupe de champagne at the long marble bar is the way to go.

Boubalé

Boubalé

6 Rue des Archives, 4th
Mon-Fri: 7am-10:30am, 12pm-2:30pm, 7pm-11:30pm
Sat: 7am-11am, 12pm-2:30pm, 7pm-11:30pm
Sun: 7am-11am, 12pm-3pm, 7pm-11:30pm

From Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, Boubalé—“my little darling” in Yiddish—serves incredible Ashkenazi food with a twist. We love the classic pierogi potatoes, schnitzel, entrecôte, and the herb salad, but unexpected items like tuna sashimi drizzled with a strawberry sorbet, soy sauce, and olive oil and finished with crunchy dried chives are just as delicious. Book a seat at the chef’s counter to watch all the behind-the-scenes preparation.

Café Charlot

Café Charlot

38 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd

This bustling bistro is particularly great for late dinners and brunch: The menu is nice and succinct, offering the classics you want after a few glasses of wine. You’ll find steak au cheval, steak tartare, a selection of burgers, and a sampling of salads, plus a small wine list mostly offered by the carafe. This is one of the few places open on Sunday.

Café La Perle

Café La Perle

78 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 7:30am-2am
Sat-Sun: 8am-2am

On summer nights, the crowds here spill out onto the streets; when winter’s chill descends, it’s one of the cozier spots in the Marais.

Chez Janou

Chez Janou

2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 3rd

Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a delicious range of entrées and desserts. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat.

Chez Julien

Chez Julien

1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th

Classic French bistros like Chez Julien are actually getting a little harder to find. Just steps from the Seine, it has an outdoor terrace where you can take in the city views. The most perfect steak frites, crème brûlée, and other traditional dishes are served on logo-emblazoned plates and accompanied by a great wine list. It’s a little on the pricey side but the formal interior (which was rvamped by the Costes brothers) and old-school service make it a good choice to toast a special occasion.

L’As du Fallafel

L’As du Fallafel

34 Rue des Rosiers, 4th Arrondissement

On Sunday, when most restaurants in Paris close shop, our heads go straight to falafel takeaway in the Marais. L’As du Fallafel was the OG—it opened in 1979, ahead of its many imitators on Rue des Rosiers—and it’s without question The One. (Miznon is excellent, too, if you’re looking for a sit-down situation with whole-roasted cauliflower and wine by the glass.)

Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste

1 Rue Commines, 3rd

Named for an infamous shipwreck—the boat was found intact, including its stores of liquor, though the crew had vanished—Le Mary Celeste got a lot of ink in the press when it opened: The young team behind this restaurant in the 3rd is the same one behind taqueria Candelaria. Like its sister restaurant, Le Mary Celeste has a drinks menu that's long and formidable, while the food menu is a bit more succinct. It’s all about oysters and other small plates that are intended to be shared. Though it does take reservations, it's just as easy to grab a seat at the bar.

Sacha Finkelsztajn La Boutique Jaune

Sacha Finkelsztajn La Boutique Jaune

27 Rue des Rosiers, 4th
Wed-Thurs: 10am-6pm
Fri-Sat: 10am-7pm
Sun: 10:30am-7pm

Since 1946, the Finkelsztajn family has been holding down this yellow-fronted deli, which is known citywide for its rugelach, challah, strudels, bagels, and cheesecake. We go for the pastrami sandwich, which involves cucumber, tomatoes, pickles, and pepper caviar on a perfectly delicate poppy seed covered roll.

Au Petit Fer à Cheval

Au Petit Fer à Cheval

30 Rue Vieille du Temple, 4th

Still sporting its original décor from 1903, the horseshoe-shaped bar beckons for a coffee, a kir (white wine and crème de cassis), or a quick meal. While there's a full restaurant in the back, it lacks the prime people-watching you'll get up front.

Bonnie

Bonnie

10 Rue Agrippa d'Aubigné, 4th
Sun-Tues: 12pm-2:30pm, 4pm-2am
Wed-Sat: 12pm-2:30pm, 4pm-5am

While you can get a delicious lunch or dinner here (plus 360-views and the mirrored Olafur Eliasson installation The Seeing City), the real reason to visit is drinks and dancing; at 11pm, the restaurant transforms into a buzzy nightclub. Set on the top two floors of the SO/ Paris hotel, the club’s leather booths and 70s-disco vibe draws a chic fashionable crowd. Even if you don’t need a cigarette break, go out on the terrace to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle from afar.

Donna

Donna

157 Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd
Wed-Thurs: 6pm-12am
Fri-Sat: 6pm-2am
Sun: 6pm-12am

Donna is right down the street from the Centre Pompidou, so you can stop in after your museum visit to chat about Mondrian, Matisse, and Duchamp over a glass of natural wine. But this bar is worth going out of your way for, too: The wine list is tightly curated, the food creative, the crowd lively, and the playlist consistently good. Wander up to the second floor for a quieter, more intimate space.

Point Éphémère

Point Éphémère

200 Quai de Valmy, 10th
Mon-Tues: 5pm-2am
Wed-Thurs: 12pm-2am
Fri-Sat: 12pm-3am
Sun: 12pm-11am

Besides hosting concerts, art exhibitions, and live performances, this ex-storage space turned squat cultural institution on the Canal Saint-Martin is also home to one of the area's best bars. On busy days, the local art crowd spills out onto the banks of the canal with beers and affordable cocktails from noon until...whenever.

Berthillon

Berthillon

31 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th

Operating out of a little window stand on the Isle St. Louis, the ice creams and sorbets here justify the sometimes long lines. After all, it’s arguably the best in Paris. Enough said.

Breizh Café

Breizh Café

109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd

We like to take a detour here while shopping on Rue Vieille du Temple. Though the buckwheat crepes are the main draw, there’s a small shop attached to the café that sells jams, ciders, and delicious cheeses.

Du Pain et Des Idées

Du Pain et Des Idées

34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th

Baker Christophe Vasseur has won innumerable awards for the pastries at his tiny corner boulangerie in the 10th, which makes perfect sense. Don’t be put off by the lines—which extend around the block—since the effort justifies the wait. Do as the locals do and come here to stock up on daily bread, along with pain aux raisin, and the chausson à la pomme fraîche (puff pastry stuffed with half of a baked apple).

I/O Café

I/O Café

16 Rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 8:30am-6pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-6pm

I/O Café—named for the on/off buttons on a coffee machine—is a simple spot to pick up a cup of specialty coffee from Danish roaster La Cabra.

La Cuisine Paris

La Cuisine Paris

80 Quai de l'Hôtel de Ville, 4th

Offering bilingual cooking classes, La Cuisine Paris teaches the basics of French cooking along with master classes in everything from macarons to poultry. If you're booking in August, make sure to ask whether they are taking Mondays off.

Mamiche Traiteur

Mamiche Traiteur

19 Rue Bouchardon, 10th
Tues-Fri: 9:30am-4pm
Sat: 9:30am-5pm

The team behind the pâtisserie Mamiche opened this takeaway lunch shop just around the corner from their location near the Canal Saint-Martin, serving sandwich stand-bys—ham and cheese, pan con tomate, etc.—as well as little pizzas and side salads. Opt for one of the combos: You can get a sandwich, drink, and dessert for 11 euros, which isn’t a bad price for the neighborhood.

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Marché des Enfants Rouges

39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd
Tues-Sat: 8:30am-10:30pm
Sun: 8:30am-5pm

At 400 years old, the Marais-based Marché des Enfants Rouges is worth browsing whether you're hungry or not (you can always stock up on fresh-cut flowers, ephemera, and larder-worthy oils and preserves). But bring an appetite—you'll find a seemingly endless sprawl of food vendors hawking everything from tagines to crepes to hearty sandwiches. Our pick: Chez Taeko's stand, which serves delicious, authentic Japanese fare.

Mariage Frères

Mariage Frères

30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th

Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of new offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city.

Monoprix

Monoprix

71 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
Mon-Sat: 9am-9:50pm
Sun: 9am-7:20pm

This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet.

Antoine et Lili

Antoine et Lili

95 Quai De Valmy, 10th
Mon: 11am-7:30pm
Tues-Sat: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-7pm

While this chainlet’s busy, color-soaked printed dresses and quirky shoes might be a little over-the-top for our tastes, the global furniture and home accessory finds are a Parisian go-to for injecting a dose of color into a home. At the shop in the 10th, stock up on printed Nathalie Leté dishware, Mexican oilcloths, woven plastic chairs, and more, which are pleasingly crammed into every last nook in the shop.

Centre Commercial Kids

Centre Commercial Kids

22 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th
Mon-Sat: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sun: 2pm-7pm

Fittingly tiny, this packed-to-the-rafters shop is lined with kids clothing from up-and-coming European designers. Union Jack-emblazoned booties, tulle skirts flecked with sequins, and wee gingham shirts are as appealing to parents as they are to little ones. It's the counterpart to the main, Centre Commercial.

Christophe Lemaire

Christophe Lemaire

1 rue Élzevir, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-7pm

With stints at Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Muegler, and Christian LaCroix under Christophe Lemaire’s belt, launching his own label in 1991 wasn’t a particularly big feat—but what he’s continued to achieve in the intervening years certainly impresses. Lemaire oversaw the rejuvenation of Lacoste in 2000, before moving on to Hermès women in 2010. Meanwhile, he’s persevered with his own collection, which focuses on crisp and classic sportswear in subtly architectural shapes.

Izraël

Izraël

30 Rue François Miron, 4th

You could spend hours in this shop, where the walls are lined with imported spices and large sacks filled with lentils, rice, and other staples dot the floor. Owned and operated by the same couple for many years, it’s become somewhat of an institution.

Joy

Joy

38 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th

Lines like Masscob, The New Society, and Xirena set the tone here, which is equal parts girly and refined.

Mélodies Graphiques

Mélodies Graphiques

10 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th
Mon: 2pm-6pm
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm

You could spend an hour browsing through this stationary shop’s selection of handmade paper, calligraphy pens, stamps, boxes, antique cards, and sealing wax. We can’t imagine visiting without finding something you just can’t leave without.

Octobre Editions

Octobre Editions

33 Rue des Blancs Manteaux, 4th
Tues-Fri: 11:30am-7:30pm
Sat-Sun: 11:30am-8pm

This men’s clothing store strikes just the right balance for picky dressers; it’s not doing too much, nor too little. (Fitting that it’s the brother line to French-girl wardrobe staple Sézane.)

Pascal Beillevaire

Pascal Beillevaire

77 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
Tues-Sat: 9am-7:45pm
Sun: 9am-1pm

The farm behind this mini-chainlet is located in the Loire valley, where they make a range of unpasteurized cheeses, butters, yogurts, and crème fraîches from scratch—while aging the cheeses of area farmers. The demi-sel croquant unpasteurized butter is crazy delicious, and portable, as they're happy to vacuum pack it for the plane.

Thanx God I'm a V.I.P.

Thanx God I'm a V.I.P.

12 Rue de Lancry, 10th

The only thing effortful about Thanx God I’m a V.I.P. is saying its name. Otherwise, it’s one of the most expertly curated and well-organized vintage shops we’ve ever visited. That’s all thanks to owner Sylvie Chateigner, who’s filled the shop with the good stuff: Moncler puffers, Max Mara trenches, and enough Prada and Dior to fill your closet several times over. There’s a cute coffee bar inside the store, too.

Centre Pompidou

Centre Pompidou

Place Georges-Pompidou, 4th
Mon: 11am-9pm
Wed: 11am-9pm
Thurs: 11am-11pm
Fri-Sun: 11am-9pm

This postmodern building revolutionized the world of architecture—and turned the rarified concept of a museum into something that could be unintimidating and fun. Designed by Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, and Gianfrancho Franchini, the Centre Pompidou is marked by an exterior lined with colorful tubes that hold the center's plumbing, electric, and circulation systems—inside, it's just as interactive. Home to a public library, a center for music and acoustic research, and the Musee National d’Art Moderne, since its inception in 1977 some of the most important modern art in the world has graced its walls, including pieces from Dali, Pollock, Warhol, and Picasso.

Galerie Chantal Crousel

Galerie Chantal Crousel

10 Rue Charlot, 3rd
Tues-Fri: 10am-6pm
Sat: 11am-7pm

This is Chantal Crousel's second location, offering the same reliably excellent mix of emerging and established artists from the contemporary art scene: In the past, she's exhibited talents like Cindy Sherman, Jenny Holzer, Sophie Calle, and Richard Prince.

Galerie Chez Valentin

Galerie Chez Valentin

9 Rue Saint-Gilles, 3rd

Chez Valentin may be small in size, but it's big on ambition: The contemporary artwork here always pushes the envelope in the most compelling way.

Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin

Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin

76 Rue de Turenne, 3rd

Best known for giving Damien Hirst his first solo show in 1991, Galerie Perrotin trailblazed in the Asian art market (they also gave Takashi Murakami his first exhibition outside of Japan). Over the intervening years, Galerie Perrotin's pace hasn't dwindled: They continue to launch up-and-coming artists from around the globe.

Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac

Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac

7 Rue Debelleyme, 3rd

Thaddaeus Ropac opened his first gallery in Salzburg when he was only 23, followed by an outpost in Paris seven years later. He represents a host of international talents (including Anselm Keifer), and is known for ambitious exhibitions and plenty of guest star curators (including Sofia Coppola). Thaddaeus Ropac also opened a space in the Paris suburb of Pantin, which easily justifies a trip for collectors.

La Gaîté Lyrique

La Gaîté Lyrique

3 Bis Rue Papin, 3rd
Tues-Fri: 9am-10pm
Sat-Sun: 11am-7pm

In a wildly compelling juxtaposition, this museum pairs electronic music and digital arts with the facade of an original 19th-century theatre. While the exhibitions are great, try to catch a concert here—and cap it off with a cocktail at the bar.

Maison Européenne de la Photographie

Maison Européenne de la Photographie

5 Rue de Fourcy, 4th
Wed: 11am-8pm
Thurs: 11am-10pm
Fri: 11am-8pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-8pm

While the work of photographers like Helmut Newton might hypothetically seem too stark and modern for this rambling and elegant 18th century mansion, it's a combination that totally works: Beyond an impressive permanent collection, this museum always lands the exhibitions everyone is talking about, whether it's Shirin Neshat, Henri Cartier-Bresson, or Sebastião Salgado. Keep in mind that they're closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Musée de la Magie

Musée de la Magie

11 Rue St. Paul, 4th
Wed: 2pm-7pm
Sat-Sun: 2pm-7pm

Even though it occupies a 16th-century cellar beneath the Marquis de Sade’s house, the offerings here are thoroughly child-friendly: The museum showcases antique wands and hats, optical illusions, contraptions, and loads of gorgeously rendered posters and prints. And if you have a little one who loves magic, they do a show (in French) that will totally appeal.

Picasso Museum

Picasso Museum

5 Rue de Thorigny, 3rd

It's rare to find a museum where you can see such a wide breadth of a single artist's work, but in this Marais manse (which dates back to the 1600s), you can see pieces from every period of Picasso's life. In addition, it also houses Picasso's personal art collection, which includes pieces from Cézanne, Rousseau, and Degas, as well as significant African art.

Ban Sabai

Ban Sabai

12 Rue de Lesdiguières, 4th

Offered in a traditional hammam setting that will lull you to sleep, the Thai-style massages here are the best in the city. The private rooms come complete with showers, and a candle-lit Jacuzzi. There's an additional location in the 16th.

Fauve

Fauve

29 rue des Gravilliers, 3rd

Fauve is a spa dedicated to hair. The hair on your head, yes—they offer a massage that aims to revitalize the scalp and boost shine. But also eyebrows (their brow treatment focuses on relieving tension around the eyes) and body hair (removal, specifically, by wax and laser).

Reformation Pilates

Reformation Pilates

175 Rue du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 7:30am-9:30pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-6pm

This is one of the few places in Paris you can take reformer Pilates. People come for the helpful instruction—often delivered in both French and English—and intimate space. Drop into class, no membership required, at one of the two locations: This one’s in the Marais and there’s another in Palais Royal.

Temple

Temple

138 Rue Amelot, 11th
Mon-Thurs: 7:15am-11pm
Fri: 7:15am-10pm
Sat-Sun: 9:30am-6:30pm

Temple’s boxing class takes place in a chic studio with parquet floors and low lighting. But the real magic comes from the instructors, who meet you where you are: Beginners and experienced boxers will both come out of class sweaty and satisfied.

Uman Project

Uman Project

19 Rue Béranger, 3rd

This pretty and intimate studio maintains a calendar of movement classes—vinyasa and hatha yoga, Pilates, and stretching—plus breathwork and sound baths. There’s also a private treatment room for lymphatic massage, Reiki, hypnosis, and naturopathic consultations.

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