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Uman Project

3rd Arrondissement, Paris, France

why we love it

This pretty and intimate studio maintains a calendar of movement classes—vinyasa and hatha yoga, Pilates, and stretching—plus breathwork and sound baths. There’s also a private treatment room for lymphatic massage, Reiki, hypnosis, and naturopathic consultations.

Originally featured in The Paris Guide: The Marais, République, and Notre-Dame

category

Health And Beauty

Uman Project

19 Rue Béranger, 3rd

phone number

+33.7.86.48.37.65

visit website

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Cheval Blanc Paris

Cheval Blanc Paris

8 Quai du Louvre, 1st

Cheval Blanc’s 72 spacious rooms and suites occupy what was once the south end of La Samaritaine, one of Paris’s great department stores, and the hotel retains much of the building’s original Art Deco character. (Samaritaine, also now under LVMH ownership, continues to operate next door.) Rooms on the higher floors enjoy views of more distant monuments; from the terrace garden on the rooftop, guests get all 360 degrees, sweeping from the Eiffel Tower to Sacré Cœur. The mostly-subterranean Dior spa is complete with six lush treatment rooms, a tiled indoor pool that looks out over the Seine, and a hammam, sauna, and snow shower, which is exactly what you think it is. The crown jewel of their culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude; reservations are difficult to snatch and worth booking your whole trip around.

Hôtel Dame des Arts

Hôtel Dame des Arts

4 Rue Danton, 6th

In the Latin Quarter, right between Boulevard Saint-Germain and the Seine, Hôtel Dame des Arts is a contemporary gem in a very old part of town. Guest rooms may not be incredibly spacious—this is Paris, after all—but they make good use of their limited square footage, and large windows keep the space from feeling cramped. That said, it’s worth shelling out for a premium room or a suite, some of which come with balconies or private terraces. At the downstairs restaurant, which has a pretty courtyard garden, chef Othoniel Alvarez Castańeda pulls off Mexican-French-Asian fusion. And the rooftop bar is an especially cool place to hang out for sunset drinks; it’s a rare place in Paris with a 360-degree view, and you should soak it in for as long as possible. The teensy spa has just one treatment room (for massages, exclusively) and a sauna, but the fitness room (also small) is visually stunning enough to carve out time for, even if your schedule’s packed.

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs

92 Rue de Vaugirard, 6th

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs occupies a middle ground that’s increasingly hard to come by in Paris: It’s well-designed and the service is solid, but it’s not true luxury, and the price point matches. The guest rooms run on the small side, but they are quite pretty, done up in a palette of cream, chestnut, pistachio, and slate blue—vaguely nautical, as are a few other details. The downstairs bar is a highlight: Poppy is inspired by the clandestine energy of speakeasies and opium dens, with good cocktails and better DJ sets. You might take advantage of the small gym and sauna downstairs, too.

Hotel Hana

Hotel Hana

17 Rue du Quatre-Septembre, 2nd

In Paris’s Little Tokyo, at the end of Rue Sainte-Anne, Hotel Hana feels like a cozy and refined refuge from the bustling streets outside. The 26 guest rooms are designed to combine Belle Epoque glamour with Japanese minimalism, and the results are soft, feminine, and totally relaxing. Hanabi, the bar and restaurant, is moody and lush. There’s a small spa, too, with just two treatment rooms and a pool that’s better for soaking than swimming.

Hotel Madame Rêve

Hotel Madame Rêve

48 Rue du Louvre

Hotel Madame Rêve draws a particularly cool and fashionable crowd. The restaurants are a big part of the draw: The one downstairs, Kitchen by Madame Rêve, serves contemporary French food in a high-ceilinged space that feels like old-school New York, and the one upstairs, La Plûme, is a buzzy spot for late-night drinks, French-Japanese food, and views of the cathedral next door. There’s a rooftop cocktail bar, too, which you can reserve for private parties. The 82 guest rooms are well-designed, clad in warm wood and golden yellows, many of them with courtyard-facing terraces or views of household-name monuments. The whole place runs dimly-lit, which could be sexy or frustrating depending on your perspective.

La Fantaisie

La Fantaisie

24 Rue Cadet, 9th

La Fantaisie has a rooftop bar, an all-day café, and a dreamy restaurant in a solarium. At the spa, guests enjoy body and facial treatments using the French beauty brand Holidermie and unwind in the spa’s baths, sauna, and hammam. It’s not far from Pigalle’s main drag. But even if none of the above were the case, we’d have fallen in love with this hotel for its pastel palette: light wood, blush, butter yellow, pistachio, and misty blue.

Le Grand Mazarin

Le Grand Mazarin

17 Rue de la Verrerie, 4th

It’s impossible to choose our favorite thing about this glamorous Le Marais hotel: the stripe-bottomed pool with a ceiling fresco by artist Jacques Merle? The in-room beauty bar menu from Oh My Cream that delivers Augustinus Bader, Tata Harper, and more to your door in 30 minutes or less? The rich design that feels as if you've entered a Wes Anderson film? Swedish interior designer Martin Brudnizki took inspiration from the salon culture of the Enlightenment, mixing eclectic prints, beautiful textures, French-artisan-made furnishings, and antiques from Paris flea markets. It’s the fourth luxury property from family-owned boutique hotel group Maisons Pariente—and in true Maisons Pariente fashion, expect elegance and exceptional service. Don’t miss dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant, Boubalé, by Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit.

Les Suites Cinabre

Les Suites Cinabre

14 Cité Bergère, 9th

Above the boutique of artisan tie-maker Cinabre, this hotel consists of only two guest apartments, both beautifully and expertly decorated: upholstery by Pierre Frey, beds by Hästens, linens by Bergan Delorme, tableware by Cristal de Paris, and dressing gowns, slippers, silk scarves, and stationary by Cinabre itself. Plus: in-room massages, excellent room-service breakfast, knowledgeable concierge service, meticulously curated vinyl collections—there’s a vintage turntable in each room—and access to the exclusive and prestigious squash club Club du Jeu de Paume de Paris.

SO/ Paris

SO/ Paris

10 Rue Agrippa d'Aubigné, 4th

This stylish hotel, squeezed between the Marais and Bastille districts, has a front-row views of the Seine and Île Saint-Louis. Terrazzo marble floors reflect the cobblestone streets of Paris. The lobby is spectacular, with giant pillars, amber-glass mirrored walls, and a striking painting by French-Algerian artist Neïl Beloufa. And the hotel collaborates with artists, florists, and brands on rotating pop-ups. The 162 rooms are sleek and modern, and categorized by view. We love the details like warming-towel racks, bulldog-shaped speakers, and floating nightstands. There’s a fitness center, pool, and intimate Codage spa. (Book ahead for the “haute-couture” massage—it’s fantastic.)

Amagat

Amagat

23 Villa Riberolle, 20th

At the bottom of Père-Lachaise, this sweet tavern serves a tight menu of tapas and Catalan wines. It’s worth crossing town for the lush and intimate cobblestone courtyard, where we see ourselves spending long summer afternoons eating grilled octopus and French-fry patatas bravas.

Bistrot Paul Chene Cherche Midi

Bistrot Paul Chene Cherche Midi

79 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th
Tues–Fri: 12pm–2:30pm, 7:30pm–10:45pm
Sat: 1pm–3pm, 7:30pm–10:45pm

If you’d like to experience classic Parisian bistro food—escargot, duck à l’orange, cordon bleu, foie gras, eggs mayonnaise, frog legs, and more—dodge the tourist traps near the Eiffel Tower and aim straight for Paul Chêne. The food here is excellent and the service is personal and warm. (Often, the owner Harold Chêne will serve you himself.) Don’t skip the orange cognac liqueur, which they make in house based on an old family recipe. The restaurant only has a handful of tables, and they always book out; make reservations by phone and well in advance.

Boubalé

Boubalé

6 Rue des Archives, 4th
Mon-Fri: 7am-10:30am, 12pm-2:30pm, 7pm-11:30pm
Sat: 7am-11am, 12pm-2:30pm, 7pm-11:30pm
Sun: 7am-11am, 12pm-3pm, 7pm-11:30pm

From Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, Boubalé—“my little darling” in Yiddish—serves incredible Ashkenazi food with a twist. We love the classic pierogi potatoes, schnitzel, entrecôte, and the herb salad, but unexpected items like tuna sashimi drizzled with a strawberry sorbet, soy sauce, and olive oil and finished with crunchy dried chives are just as delicious. Book a seat at the chef’s counter to watch all the behind-the-scenes preparation.

Buttes Snack Bar

Buttes Snack Bar

10 Rue Pradier, 19th
Wed–Fri: 5:30pm–11pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm–12am

The name “snack bar” is misleading; this cozy neighborhood spot is a full-blown natural wine bar with dim lighting and an excellent dinner menu, which changes frequently. Think mussels in harissa bouillon, crispy gochujang chicken wings, tomatoes in lemon caper sauce, and fresh spring asparagus, cooked perfectly.

Dumbo

Dumbo

64 Rue Jean Baptiste, 9th

It would be silly to go to Paris for a smashburger—so prioritize accordingly—but Dumbo does them really well. Expect the classic fixings: American cheese, extra-crispy French fries, and Heinz ketchup, for here or to go.

Fugazi

Fugazi

18 Rue Lacharrière, 11th

This little bistro is popular for good wine, a contemporary menu of well-executed small plates, and terrace seating that’s especially lovely on a summer evening. It draws lively and youngish crowd on weekends.

Furia

Furia

2 Rue Lacharrière, 11th

Furia’s tacos are solidly the best in Paris. There are just six on the menu—including shiitake al pastor, cauliflower tempura, slow-roasted pulled pork, or tuna and shoestring fries. All delicious, although the fresh corn tortillas might be the real highlight. Grab a seven-euro glass—or a 35-euro bottle—from the well-curated list of natural wines and finish the night off with an order of flan and ice cream. Furia doesn’t take reservations, and it gets packed; come early.

Minore

Minore

4 Av. Trudaine, 9th

The tasting menu at Minore might baffle you at first glance. But by the time you finish your first course, you’ll wonder why you haven’t seen black mullet paired with strawberries before. Minore’s inventive menu is the work of chef Katsuaki Okiyama, whose previous restaurant, Abri, firmly kicked off a wave of Japanese-French dining in Paris. The cocktails here are just as surprising and wonderful as the food, thanks to Okiyama’s partner, bartender Hugo Cobe. Try the margarita, made with wasabi, passionfruit, and cherry vinegar.

Ojii

Ojii

6 Rue Perronet, 7th

Ojii pulls off unforgettable Japanese fine dining in a slinky, ‘70s-inspired boîte. They do white-tablecloth in a sexy way, and it’s great for date night: Spend the night eating caviar tuna nigiri and sipping sake cocktails made with sobacha, yuzu, or plum wine.

Pléntitude

Pléntitude

8 Quai du Louvre, 1st

The crown jewel of Cheval Blanc’s culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude. Chef Arnaud Donckele fuses classic French dishes from Normandy and Paris with Mediterranean inspiration. The meat and fish here are great, but the sauces, creams, and broths steal the show. Reservations are difficult to get and worth booking your whole trip around.

Tekés

Tekés

4 Rue Saint Sauveur, 2nd
Mon–Sat: 12pm–2:30pm; 7pm–1:30am
Sun: 12pm–3pm; 7pm–1:30am

Chef Assaf Granit has become known for flavorful Mediterranean food and good vibes. His fourth Paris restaurant, Tekés, is the kind of place you could bring anyone, for any reason, and know you’ll have a fantastic time. Expect open-fire vegetarian cooking—perhaps grilled leeks, beetroot kabobs, za’atar and garlic galettes—in an airy space with high ceilings. The music is always killer, the vibe celebratory, and the service energetic and personable.

Bonnie

Bonnie

10 Rue Agrippa d'Aubigné, 4th
Sun-Tues: 12pm-2:30pm, 4pm-2am
Wed-Sat: 12pm-2:30pm, 4pm-5am

While you can get a delicious lunch or dinner here (plus 360-views and the mirrored Olafur Eliasson installation The Seeing City), the real reason to visit is drinks and dancing; at 11pm, the restaurant transforms into a buzzy nightclub. Set on the top two floors of the SO/ Paris hotel, the club’s leather booths and 70s-disco vibe draws a chic fashionable crowd. Even if you don’t need a cigarette break, go out on the terrace to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle from afar.

Donna

Donna

157 Rue Saint-Martin, 3rd
Wed-Thurs: 6pm-12am
Fri-Sat: 6pm-2am
Sun: 6pm-12am

Donna is right down the street from the Centre Pompidou, so you can stop in after your museum visit to chat about Mondrian, Matisse, and Duchamp over a glass of natural wine. But this bar is worth going out of your way for, too: The wine list is tightly curated, the food creative, the crowd lively, and the playlist consistently good. Wander up to the second floor for a quieter, more intimate space.

Folderol

Folderol

10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th

As far as we know, Folderol is the first of its kind: a natural wine bar slash ice cream shop. You order at the counter—there’s always a line—to get a glass of whatever the sommelier recommends and a scoop off the ice cream menu, which changes daily. Kids are welcome.

Café Isaka

Café Isaka

9 Rue Thérèse, 1st
Sun-Tues: 12pm-8pm
Wed-Sat: 12pm-10pm

This teeny ice cream spot specializes in Asian-inspired flavors like pandan, kinako, soy sauce, hojicha tea, and White Rabbit candy—you can order a scoop in a cone, cup, or milkshake, or in mochi or as an affogato. Prioritize the house specialty: panko-encrusted fried ice cream sprinkled with toppings—maybe black sesame seeds, matcha, or popcorn. Café Isaka also has a strong menu of coffee and teas, including ube, peanut, and Thai milk tea.

Conservatoire des Hémisphères

Conservatoire des Hémisphères

96 rue du Bac, 7th

When you step into this specialty tea boutique, the first thing you notice is how good it smells. Follow your nose: Sniff whole-flower teas in stone goblets, open the bulk jars and take a whiff, and pull out the pretty drawers in the wall, which hold teas with names like jardins suspendus (“hanging gardens”). You can’t sample the teas on site, but the shopkeeper will help you pick something to take home.

I/O Café

I/O Café

16 Rue Dupetit-Thouars, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 8:30am-6pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-6pm

I/O Café—named for the on/off buttons on a coffee machine—is a simple spot to pick up a cup of specialty coffee from Danish roaster La Cabra.

Mamiche Traiteur

Mamiche Traiteur

19 Rue Bouchardon, 10th
Tues-Fri: 9:30am-4pm
Sat: 9:30am-5pm

The team behind the pâtisserie Mamiche opened this takeaway lunch shop just around the corner from their location near the Canal Saint-Martin, serving sandwich stand-bys—ham and cheese, pan con tomate, etc.—as well as little pizzas and side salads. Opt for one of the combos: You can get a sandwich, drink, and dessert for 11 euros, which isn’t a bad price for the neighborhood.

Momus

Momus

44 Rue des Martyrs, 9th
Mon-Fri: 11am-8pm
Sat: 10:30am-8pm
Sun: 10:30am-5pm

Following in the footsteps of third-wave coffee shops Noir and Ten Belles, indie roaster Momus aims to elevate the standard of coffee in Paris. Founder Lionel Giraud—former artistic director of Chaumet and alumnus of Cartier and Courrèges—focuses on environmentally conscious sourcing, complex flavor, and beautiful presentation. (Each box of coffee is elegantly packaged; they would make great hostess gifts.) The Momus shop is more boutique than café, but the knowledgeable baristas are happy to make you an espresso from their vast collection of beans.

Fauve

Fauve

29 rue des Gravilliers, 3rd

Fauve is a spa dedicated to hair. The hair on your head, yes—they offer a massage that aims to revitalize the scalp and boost shine. But also eyebrows (their brow treatment focuses on relieving tension around the eyes) and body hair (removal, specifically, by wax and laser).

Jeanne Casimir

Jeanne Casimir

Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, 24 Rue de Sèvres, 7th

If you’re lucky enough to land an in-person appointment with face massage specialist Jeanne Casimir, you’ll leave with visibly lifted and invigorated skin. Casimir takes up residency at the Bon Marché for a week at a time, and she makes house calls. If you can’t meet her IRL, enroll in her self-massage class, which takes place online.

Sophie Carbonari

Sophie Carbonari

170 Galerie de Valois, 1st

Clients like Rihanna and Naomi Campbell leave sessions with facialist Sophie Carbonari looking sculpted and luminous. Go to her chic studio at the Palais-Royal for some serious pampering—lymphatic drainage, acupressure, and Japanese Kobido are just a few of the massage therapies she uses. “The idea with face massage is to get energy flowing and to support circulation,” she says. “Stimulating the muscles helps refresh the skin.” We love her ebullient energy, magic hands, and the custom botanical blends she mixes up for clients’ skin.

Bonhomie

Bonhomie

22 Rue d'Enghien, 10th

If you've overindulged on steak-frites and can't handle the thought of another buttery sole meunière, eschew the delicious but heavy bistro classics for some Mediterranean at Bonhomie. A café meets cocktail bar meets restaurant near the chic Marais district, sitting on a royal-blue leather stool in the beautiful, modern, white-and-gold interior feels like a breath of fresh air. The menu leans on Moroccan influences with a former Frenchie chef at the helm—dishes like minty chickpeas and labneh and harissa lamb with tabbouleh take center stage. If you happen to pass by at an odd afternoon hour, a coupe de champagne at the long marble bar is the way to go.

Café Charlot

Café Charlot

38 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd

This bustling bistro is particularly great for late dinners and brunch: The menu is nice and succinct, offering the classics you want after a few glasses of wine. You’ll find steak au cheval, steak tartare, a selection of burgers, and a sampling of salads, plus a small wine list mostly offered by the carafe. This is one of the few places open on Sunday.

Café La Perle

Café La Perle

78 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 7:30am-2am
Sat-Sun: 8am-2am

On summer nights, the crowds here spill out onto the streets; when winter’s chill descends, it’s one of the cozier spots in the Marais.

Chez Janou

Chez Janou

2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 3rd

Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a delicious range of entrées and desserts. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat.

Chez Julien

Chez Julien

1 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th

Classic French bistros like Chez Julien are actually getting a little harder to find. Just steps from the Seine, it has an outdoor terrace where you can take in the city views. The most perfect steak frites, crème brûlée, and other traditional dishes are served on logo-emblazoned plates and accompanied by a great wine list. It’s a little on the pricey side but the formal interior (which was rvamped by the Costes brothers) and old-school service make it a good choice to toast a special occasion.

Derriere

Derriere

69 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 12pm-2pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-11pm

This speakeasy-esque spot in the Marais is run by brothers Mourad and Hakim Mazouz and takes “homey atmosphere” to the next level. For one, it’s set up like a bohemian apartment, with diners taking their pick from the kitchen, dining room, boudoir, or living room—which has a ping-pong table in the center. Upstairs, a smoking lounge is hidden behind a secret doorway (in an antique armoire, naturally). The extreme comfort theme also applies to the menu, with steak frites taking top billing for dinner and an epic brunch spread on weekends.

Glou

Glou

101 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Thurs: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sat: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-11:30pm
Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30-10:30pm

The Marais is flush with casual dining spots, which means this two-story restaurant fits in perfectly. There are communal tables on the ground floor for larger parties and walk-ins, and the menu, though full of French delicacies, isn’t the least bit pretentious. The wine list is nicely reasonable, too, in both selection and price.

Kitchen

Kitchen

74 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 8am-2:30pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-3:30pm

At lunch, Kitchen is overrun with health-conscious Parisians who sidle up to the communal tables for salads, veggie stews, and cold-pressed juice.

L’As du Fallafel

L’As du Fallafel

34 Rue des Rosiers, 4th Arrondissement

On Sunday, when most restaurants in Paris close shop, our heads go straight to falafel takeaway in the Marais. L’As du Fallafel was the OG—it opened in 1979, ahead of its many imitators on Rue des Rosiers—and it’s without question The One. (Miznon is excellent, too, if you’re looking for a sit-down situation with whole-roasted cauliflower and wine by the glass.)

Le 404

Le 404

69 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm

While we’ve arguably had better Moroccan, Le 404 isn’t really about the food (though the lentils and chicken tagines are a welcome culinary break from beef bourguignon): It’s always a party, best capped off with a cocktail at Andy Wahloo next door (from the same owners). Keep in mind that Le 404 is also open on Sundays, a Parisian rarity.

Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste

1 Rue Commines, 3rd

Named for an infamous shipwreck—the boat was found intact, including its stores of liquor, though the crew had vanished—Le Mary Celeste got a lot of ink in the press when it opened: The young team behind this restaurant in the 3rd is the same one behind taqueria Candelaria. Like its sister restaurant, Le Mary Celeste has a drinks menu that's long and formidable, while the food menu is a bit more succinct. It’s all about oysters and other small plates that are intended to be shared. Though it does take reservations, it's just as easy to grab a seat at the bar.

Miznon

Miznon

22 Rue des Ecouffes, 4th
Sun-Thurs: 12pm-11pm
Fri: 12pm-4pm

This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.

Sacha Finkelsztajn La Boutique Jaune

Sacha Finkelsztajn La Boutique Jaune

27 Rue des Rosiers, 4th
Wed-Thurs: 10am-6pm
Fri-Sat: 10am-7pm
Sun: 10:30am-7pm

Since 1946, the Finkelsztajn family has been holding down this yellow-fronted deli, which is known citywide for its rugelach, challah, strudels, bagels, and cheesecake. We go for the pastrami sandwich, which involves cucumber, tomatoes, pickles, and pepper caviar on a perfectly delicate poppy seed covered roll.

Vivant 2

Vivant 2

43 Rue des Petites-Ecuries, 10th

Pierre Jancou, who honed his skills at Paris’s popular Racines, opened this hip little mural-tiled restaurant on a windy street in the 10th. There’s a heavy focus on provenance here, especially with the wines, many of which are natural.

Wild & The Moon

Wild & The Moon

55 Rue Charlot, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 8am-9pm
Sun: 9am-9pm

A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & The Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—blue moon smoothies, golden lattes, and matcha mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call.

Au Petit Fer à Cheval

Au Petit Fer à Cheval

30 Rue Vieille du Temple, 4th

Still sporting its original décor from 1903, the horseshoe-shaped bar beckons for a coffee, a kir (white wine and crème de cassis), or a quick meal. While there's a full restaurant in the back, it lacks the prime people-watching you'll get up front.

Candelaria

Candelaria

52 Rue de Saintonge, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 5pm-2am
Sat-Sun: 12pm-2am

This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.

Le Verre Volé

Le Verre Volé

67 Rue de Lancry, 10th

Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a market (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt).

Point Éphémère

Point Éphémère

200 Quai de Valmy, 10th
Mon-Tues: 5pm-2am
Wed-Thurs: 12pm-2am
Fri-Sat: 12pm-3am
Sun: 12pm-11am

Besides hosting concerts, art exhibitions, and live performances, this ex-storage space turned squat cultural institution on the Canal Saint-Martin is also home to one of the area's best bars. On busy days, the local art crowd spills out onto the banks of the canal with beers and affordable cocktails from noon until...whenever.

Berthillon

Berthillon

31 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th

Operating out of a little window stand on the Isle St. Louis, the ice creams and sorbets here justify the sometimes long lines. After all, it’s arguably the best in Paris. Enough said.

Bob’s Juice Bar

Bob’s Juice Bar

15 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 10th

Whether you want a green juice to kick off what will otherwise be a day of gluttony, or need a palate-cleanser after a string of rich French meals, this tiny space offers a respite. Besides cold-pressed juice (Paris’s first foray into that space), you’ll find locals feasting on quinoa salads and veggie-laden muffins at the communal table.

Breizh Café

Breizh Café

109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd

We like to take a detour here while shopping on Rue Vieille du Temple. Though the buckwheat crepes are the main draw, there’s a small shop attached to the café that sells jams, ciders, and delicious cheeses.

Du Pain et Des Idées

Du Pain et Des Idées

34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th

Baker Christophe Vasseur has won innumerable awards for the pastries at his tiny corner boulangerie in the 10th, which makes perfect sense. Don’t be put off by the lines—which extend around the block—since the effort justifies the wait. Do as the locals do and come here to stock up on daily bread, along with pain aux raisin, and the chausson à la pomme fraîche (puff pastry stuffed with half of a baked apple).

La Cuisine Paris

La Cuisine Paris

80 Quai de l'Hôtel de Ville, 4th

Offering bilingual cooking classes, La Cuisine Paris teaches the basics of French cooking along with master classes in everything from macarons to poultry. If you're booking in August, make sure to ask whether they are taking Mondays off.

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Marché des Enfants Rouges

39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd
Tues-Sat: 8:30am-10:30pm
Sun: 8:30am-5pm

At 400 years old, the Marais-based Marché des Enfants Rouges is worth browsing whether you're hungry or not (you can always stock up on fresh-cut flowers, ephemera, and larder-worthy oils and preserves). But bring an appetite—you'll find a seemingly endless sprawl of food vendors hawking everything from tagines to crepes to hearty sandwiches. Our pick: Chez Taeko's stand, which serves delicious, authentic Japanese fare.

Mariage Frères

Mariage Frères

30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th

Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of new offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city.

Monoprix

Monoprix

71 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
Mon-Sat: 9am-9:50pm
Sun: 9am-7:20pm

This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet.

Antoine et Lili

Antoine et Lili

95 Quai De Valmy, 10th
Mon: 11am-7:30pm
Tues-Sat: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-7pm

While this chainlet’s busy, color-soaked printed dresses and quirky shoes might be a little over-the-top for our tastes, the global furniture and home accessory finds are a Parisian go-to for injecting a dose of color into a home. At the shop in the 10th, stock up on printed Nathalie Leté dishware, Mexican oilcloths, woven plastic chairs, and more, which are pleasingly crammed into every last nook in the shop.

The Broken Arm

The Broken Arm

12 Rue Perrée, 3rd
Mon: 1pm-7pm
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm

Part café, part boutique, attention to detail is paramount at this minimalist space, whether it's the streamlined shape of a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Prada loafers, or the perfect cappucino and slice of cake.

Centre Commercial

Centre Commercial

2 Rue de Marseille, 10th
Mon–Sat: 11am–8pm
Sun: 2pm–7pm

Large and loftlike, this industrial-feeling store has an ambitious mandate: fair-trade clothing and accessories from little-known and established artisan brands, mixed in with a smattering of vintage furniture, art books, records, and indie zines. If you've got little ones, don't miss the outpost devoted to kids.

Centre Commercial Kids

Centre Commercial Kids

22 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th
Mon-Sat: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sun: 2pm-7pm

Fittingly tiny, this packed-to-the-rafters shop is lined with kids clothing from up-and-coming European designers. Union Jack-emblazoned booties, tulle skirts flecked with sequins, and wee gingham shirts are as appealing to parents as they are to little ones. It's the counterpart to the main, Centre Commercial.

Christophe Lemaire

Christophe Lemaire

1 rue Élzevir, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-7pm

With stints at Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Muegler, and Christian LaCroix under Christophe Lemaire’s belt, launching his own label in 1991 wasn’t a particularly big feat—but what he’s continued to achieve in the intervening years certainly impresses. Lemaire oversaw the rejuvenation of Lacoste in 2000, before moving on to Hermès women in 2010. Meanwhile, he’s persevered with his own collection, which focuses on crisp and classic sportswear in subtly architectural shapes.

Fleux

Fleux

39 & 52 Rue St. Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4th
Sun-Fri: 10:45am-8:30pm
Sat: 10:15am-8:30pm

This shop literally spans a block—and what feels like a big block. Inside, you'll find every iteration of every modern home trend, which can overwhelm, but if you can take the time to really look, you'll find tons to lug home.

Izraël

Izraël

30 Rue François Miron, 4th

You could spend hours in this shop, where the walls are lined with imported spices and large sacks filled with lentils, rice, and other staples dot the floor. Owned and operated by the same couple for many years, it’s become somewhat of an institution.

Joy

Joy

38 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th

Lines like Masscob, The New Society, and Xirena set the tone here, which is equal parts girly and refined.

Love Stories Paris

Love Stories Paris

75 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7pm
Sun: 2pm-7pm

Love Stories hails from Amsterdam, but the lingerie is so delicate, it may as well be Parisian. The matching sets, which come in varying degrees of skimpiness, are a good place to start. We love the selection of supremely comfortable bralettes in cotton and lace for traveling, or just lounging in. There’s also a smart edit of accessories, and somehow, we can never leave the store without adding a silk sleep mask or floral-print laundry bag (so convenient for storing underwear or purses) to our basket.

Maison Labiche

Maison Labiche

105 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-7pm

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

Mélodies Graphiques

Mélodies Graphiques

10 Rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th
Mon: 2pm-6pm
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm

You could spend an hour browsing through this stationary shop’s selection of handmade paper, calligraphy pens, stamps, boxes, antique cards, and sealing wax. We can’t imagine visiting without finding something you just can’t leave without.

Merci

Merci

111 Blvd. Beaumarchais, 3rd
Sun-Wed: 10:30am-7:30pm
Thurs-Sat: 10:30am-8pm

It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, profits go to charities in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; natural shampoos and Comme des Garçons perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting the Used Book Café in the basement, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch.

Octobre Editions

Octobre Editions

33 Rue des Blancs Manteaux, 4th
Tues-Fri: 11:30am-7:30pm
Sat-Sun: 11:30am-8pm

This men’s clothing store strikes just the right balance for picky dressers; it’s not doing too much, nor too little. (Fitting that it’s the brother line to French-girl wardrobe staple Sézane.)

Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

5 Rue des Filles du Calvaire, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-7:30pm
Sat: 11am-8pm
Sun: 1:30pm-7pm

You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee.

Pascal Beillevaire

Pascal Beillevaire

77 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
Tues-Sat: 9am-7:45pm
Sun: 9am-1pm

The farm behind this mini-chainlet is located in the Loire valley, where they make a range of unpasteurized cheeses, butters, yogurts, and crème fraîches from scratch—while aging the cheeses of area farmers. The demi-sel croquant unpasteurized butter is crazy delicious, and portable, as they're happy to vacuum pack it for the plane.

Thanx God I'm a V.I.P.

Thanx God I'm a V.I.P.

12 Rue de Lancry, 10th

The only thing effortful about Thanx God I’m a V.I.P. is saying its name. Otherwise, it’s one of the most expertly curated and well-organized vintage shops we’ve ever visited. That’s all thanks to owner Sylvie Chateigner, who’s filled the shop with the good stuff: Moncler puffers, Max Mara trenches, and enough Prada and Dior to fill your closet several times over. There’s a cute coffee bar inside the store, too.

Centre Pompidou

Centre Pompidou

Place Georges-Pompidou, 4th
Mon: 11am-9pm
Wed: 11am-9pm
Thurs: 11am-11pm
Fri-Sun: 11am-9pm

This postmodern building revolutionized the world of architecture—and turned the rarified concept of a museum into something that could be unintimidating and fun. Designed by Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, and Gianfrancho Franchini, the Centre Pompidou is marked by an exterior lined with colorful tubes that hold the center's plumbing, electric, and circulation systems—inside, it's just as interactive. Home to a public library, a center for music and acoustic research, and the Musee National d’Art Moderne, since its inception in 1977 some of the most important modern art in the world has graced its walls, including pieces from Dali, Pollock, Warhol, and Picasso.

Galerie Chantal Crousel

Galerie Chantal Crousel

10 Rue Charlot, 3rd
Tues-Fri: 10am-6pm
Sat: 11am-7pm

This is Chantal Crousel's second location, offering the same reliably excellent mix of emerging and established artists from the contemporary art scene: In the past, she's exhibited talents like Cindy Sherman, Jenny Holzer, Sophie Calle, and Richard Prince.

Galerie Chez Valentin

Galerie Chez Valentin

9 Rue Saint-Gilles, 3rd

Chez Valentin may be small in size, but it's big on ambition: The contemporary artwork here always pushes the envelope in the most compelling way.

Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin

Galerie Emmanuel Perrotin

76 Rue de Turenne, 3rd

Best known for giving Damien Hirst his first solo show in 1991, Galerie Perrotin trailblazed in the Asian art market (they also gave Takashi Murakami his first exhibition outside of Japan). Over the intervening years, Galerie Perrotin's pace hasn't dwindled: They continue to launch up-and-coming artists from around the globe.

Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac

Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac

7 Rue Debelleyme, 3rd

Thaddaeus Ropac opened his first gallery in Salzburg when he was only 23, followed by an outpost in Paris seven years later. He represents a host of international talents (including Anselm Keifer), and is known for ambitious exhibitions and plenty of guest star curators (including Sofia Coppola). Thaddaeus Ropac also opened a space in the Paris suburb of Pantin, which easily justifies a trip for collectors.

La Gaîté Lyrique

La Gaîté Lyrique

3 Bis Rue Papin, 3rd
Tues-Fri: 9am-10pm
Sat-Sun: 11am-7pm

In a wildly compelling juxtaposition, this museum pairs electronic music and digital arts with the facade of an original 19th-century theatre. While the exhibitions are great, try to catch a concert here—and cap it off with a cocktail at the bar.

Maison Européenne de la Photographie

Maison Européenne de la Photographie

5 Rue de Fourcy, 4th
Wed: 11am-8pm
Thurs: 11am-10pm
Fri: 11am-8pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-8pm

While the work of photographers like Helmut Newton might hypothetically seem too stark and modern for this rambling and elegant 18th century mansion, it's a combination that totally works: Beyond an impressive permanent collection, this museum always lands the exhibitions everyone is talking about, whether it's Shirin Neshat, Henri Cartier-Bresson, or Sebastião Salgado. Keep in mind that they're closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Musée de la Magie

Musée de la Magie

11 Rue St. Paul, 4th
Wed: 2pm-7pm
Sat-Sun: 2pm-7pm

Even though it occupies a 16th-century cellar beneath the Marquis de Sade’s house, the offerings here are thoroughly child-friendly: The museum showcases antique wands and hats, optical illusions, contraptions, and loads of gorgeously rendered posters and prints. And if you have a little one who loves magic, they do a show (in French) that will totally appeal.

Picasso Museum

Picasso Museum

5 Rue de Thorigny, 3rd

It's rare to find a museum where you can see such a wide breadth of a single artist's work, but in this Marais manse (which dates back to the 1600s), you can see pieces from every period of Picasso's life. In addition, it also houses Picasso's personal art collection, which includes pieces from Cézanne, Rousseau, and Degas, as well as significant African art.

Ban Sabai

Ban Sabai

12 Rue de Lesdiguières, 4th

Offered in a traditional hammam setting that will lull you to sleep, the Thai-style massages here are the best in the city. The private rooms come complete with showers, and a candle-lit Jacuzzi. There's an additional location in the 16th.

Reformation Pilates

Reformation Pilates

175 Rue du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 7:30am-9:30pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-6pm

This is one of the few places in Paris you can take reformer Pilates. People come for the helpful instruction—often delivered in both French and English—and intimate space. Drop into class, no membership required, at one of the two locations: This one’s in the Marais and there’s another in Palais Royal.

Temple

Temple

138 Rue Amelot, 11th
Mon-Thurs: 7:15am-11pm
Fri: 7:15am-10pm
Sat-Sun: 9:30am-6:30pm

Temple’s boxing class takes place in a chic studio with parquet floors and low lighting. But the real magic comes from the instructors, who meet you where you are: Beginners and experienced boxers will both come out of class sweaty and satisfied.

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