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Tucked away in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this eternally cool brasserie mixes classic French and Asian-inspired dishes, like black truffle croque-monsieur, sea bream carpaccio, grilled filet, and the juiciest cheeseburger ever. Old leather cushion banquettes and marble countertops contrast with chic black-floral wallpaper; it’s both cozy and romantic.

If you've overindulged on steak-frites and can't handle the thought of another buttery sole meunière, eschew the delicious but heavy bistro classics for some Mediterranean at Bonhomie. A café meets cocktail bar meets restaurant near the chic Marais district, sitting on a royal-blue leather stool in the beautiful, modern, white-and-gold interior feels like a breath of fresh air. The menu leans on Moroccan influences with a former Frenchie chef at the helm—dishes like minty chickpeas and labneh and harissa lamb with tabbouleh take center stage. If you happen to pass by at an odd afternoon hour, a coupe de champagne at the long marble bar is the way to go.

Bouillon Pigalle is a restaurant of the proletariat. Though it would be more accurate to call it a restaurant of the proletariat of Paris who favor watercress salad, escargots, beef bourguignon, frites, and a menu that is as true to a bistro menu as it can be. Historically, in French restaurant vernacular, a "bouillon" is a restaurant that served bouillon-which is to say good, afforable food, that appealed to the working class. And Bouillon Pigalle is the modern version: 300 seats; a festive, bustling vibe; and a crowd willing to wait the better part of an hour for table. No matter. The profiteroles are that good.

It takes nerve (and talent) for an American to take a French concept and re-create it for a famously hard-to-please Parisian audience. In chef Jody Williams's case, her French-inspired wine bar, Buvette, has been embraced with open arms. She tested the concept in New York first—there is a much-loved West Village outpost—and exported her gastrothèque to Paris, to rave reviews. In this romantic, perfectly Parisian little wine bar, you can expect a wonderful cocktail and wine list, and a petite menu of small versions of dishes like coq au vin, moules, and tartines. They also serve several local, seasonal salads—good ones are still hard to find in many traditional French restaurants.

This bustling bistro is particularly great for late dinners and brunch: The menu is nice and succinct, offering the classics you want after a few glasses of wine. You’ll find steak au cheval, steak tartare, a selection of burgers, and a sampling of salads, plus a small wine list mostly offered by the carafe. This is one of the few places open on Sunday.

This classic Parisian Art Deco café on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain has played host to everyone from Sartre to Picasso. They came for coffee and people-watching, and so should you: When the weather’s nice, find a spot on the outdoor patio and get a big café crème. (Or swing by just to see the place: The food's just okay, and the crowd inside made up of tourists exclusively, but the institution itself is pretty iconic.)

Unpretentious and laid-back, this is the sort of restaurant that’s the perfect reprieve after a few days of big, loud brasseries. The food is simple but well-prepared and nicely affordable, too.

Nantes-born Gregory Marchand, who cooked under both Jamie Oliver and Danny Meyer (he earned his nickname “Frenchie” while cooking with Oliver), offers a subtle worldly perspective on classic French cooking via a tiny set menu (145 euros per person). Reservations are hard to get, though Marchand’s walk-in-only venture, Frenchie bar à vins, is an option should you fail to land a table, and there’s also his Italian restaurant down the street, Altro Frenchie.

The Marais is flush with casual dining spots, which means this two-story restaurant fits in perfectly. There are communal tables on the ground floor for larger parties and walk-ins, and the menu, though full of French delicacies, isn’t the least bit pretentious. The wine list is nicely reasonable, too, in both selection and price.

La Closerie is in the same league as historic cafés like Les Deux Magots and La Palette. And while some might say this Montparnasse standby is past its prime, many insist it’s still very much happening—after all, Hemingway (there’s a handy sign indicating his preferred spot at the bar), Picasso, and Beckett used to hang out here all the time. We recommend springing for a full dinner in the formal main hall. But the brasserie-slash-piano-bar is great for a drink and to get a feel of the place without spending a fortune.

Thanks to loads of press and a swift global expansion in 2005 (there are now outposts in New York, London, Lebanon, Japan, Sweden, Hong Kong, Brazil, Los Angeles, and more), the Ladurée celadon green is almost as iconic as Tiffany blue or Hermès orange. It all started in 1862 at 16 rue Royale, when writer Louis Ernest Ladurée opened a pastry shop. Though macarons had been kicking around France since the sixteenth century, when Catherine de Medici introduced them from Italy, Ladurée’s grandson revolutionized the concept in 1930 by using a bit of ganache to create a macaron sandwich. Beyond sweets, Ladurée's dinner service is great, with a kid-friendly menu that adults can enjoy, too. Although the original Ladurée is a fixture on the Champs-Elysées, there are multiple locations throughout the city to enjoy.

The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table.

This quaint little restaurant serves excellent French food—cassoulet, steak tartare, and chocolate cake—in an unstuffy Art Nouveau dining room. The adjoining shop, complete with ham hocks hanging from the rafters, has a killer selection of French wines, cheeses, and other specialty items.

If you find yourself with time alone, grab one of the single-occupancy tables outside, which face onto the small square; that said, if you’re saddled with the little ones, this spot is blessedly kid-friendly, too. A bottle of red and the boeuf bourguignon—served with lemon rind, pasta, and pine nuts—is the meal to get here.

Le Dauphin is immediately next door to its sister restaurant, Le Chateaubriand. Locals hover around the marbled bar (there are only a handful of tables) for well-priced—though complex—small plates and surprisingly affordable wine.

Le Grand Salon, located at the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, is designed to offer a respite from the craziness of the city. The classic French cuisine and seasonal cocktails can easily stand on their own, but you'll enjoy them even more if you sit in the property’s hidden garden. The weekend brunch is legendary, and the intimate bar, Le Très Particulier, is worth a visit.

This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.

Named for an infamous shipwreck—the boat was found intact, including its stores of liquor, though the crew had vanished—Le Mary Celeste got a lot of ink in the press when it opened: The young team behind this restaurant in the 3rd is the same one behind taqueria Candelaria. Like its sister restaurant, Le Mary Celeste has a drinks menu that's long and formidable, while the food menu is a bit more succinct. It’s all about oysters and other small plates that are intended to be shared. Though it does take reservations, it's just as easy to grab a seat at the bar.

You know exactly what to expect at this, kitschy, family-owned establishment and that is the best steak frites in town topped with buttery, herby “secret” sauce. That’s it, and it’s worth lining up for at this is a no-reservations locale. Touristy though it may be, it remains a local’s mainstay, too, as proof of its great quality.

This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.

A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & The Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—blue moon smoothies, golden lattes, and matcha mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call.

The exterior of À la Mère de Famille—an emerald-green storefront with more windows than walls—looks like a jewelry box, or rather, a chocolate box; you can see the cakes and chocolates and towers of beautifully packaged bars from down the block. Open since 1761, one of the many pleasures of this particular confectioner is the breadth of old-world caramels, nougat, boiled sweets, and marshmallows. And nothing much has changed inside, either. Taking in the old tile floor, the floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with preserves and syrups, and the elaborate table displays as you make your way to the counter is an exercise in both nostalgic pleasure and control.

Paris is one of those special cities that enthusiastically clings on to the more traditional, elegant remnants of the past—Angelina is an embodiment of this policy. A classic tearoom that first opened in 1903, the over-the-top Belle Epoque interiors create the ambiance for a truly decadent hour (or two) of sweet indulgence. The sculptural cakes and classic patisserie that line the glass cases are the perfect accompaniment to the main event: Angelina's world-renowned hot chocolate. We recommend the Old Style Hot Chocolate, made from a blend of cocoa beans whipped into hot milk and cream for the smoothest, slightly sweet, slightly bitter cup. Angelina also serves up well-executed classic French dishes like croque-madame and quiche Lorraine, but really it's the chocolate—and the people-watching—that makes this Paris institution a favorite with locals and tourists alike.

This teeny ice cream spot specializes in Asian-inspired flavors like pandan, kinako, soy sauce, hojicha tea, and White Rabbit candy—you can order a scoop in a cone, cup, or milkshake, or in mochi or as an affogato. Prioritize the house specialty: panko-encrusted fried ice cream sprinkled with toppings—maybe black sesame seeds, matcha, or popcorn. Café Isaka also has a strong menu of coffee and teas, including ube, peanut, and Thai milk tea.

Yves Camdeborde was so busy at his popular Left Bank restaurant, Le Comptoir, that he opted to accommodate the overflow by opening a tiny bar à vin next door. Though it’s standing room only, which is quite common in Paris, the delicious Béarnais-style small plates are worth tempting discomfort. We promise it’s a pleasant experience.

Offering bilingual cooking classes, La Cuisine Paris teaches the basics of French cooking along with master classes in everything from macarons to poultry. If you're booking in August, make sure to ask whether they are taking Mondays off.

Café culture is one of the many institutions that make Paris such a pleasure to visit. An hour spent sitting outside with a café au lait and a croissant watching the Parisians pass by is time well spent. Les Deux Magots in the heart of Saint-Germain has been one of the preferred literary and creative spots forever, with regulars including Picasso and Hemingway. The menu touches the greatest hits; the croque-madame is especially good, but honestly, a coffee or—hell, you’re on vacation—a glass of champagne outside under the canopy is the way to go.

Located between the 16th and 7th arrondisements, the quiet, well-mannered vibe of this market is well suited to its upscale clientele. (It’s a great option if you’re the kind of shopper who is easily overwhelmed by shouting vendors and pushy customers.) As for the wares, expect fresh bread, flowers, seafood, olives, spices, vegetables, cheese, fruit, and even prepared foods. Friends tell us that farmer Joël Thiébault (who owns a family-run vegetable operation just outside the city) is a standout for his unique, visually stunning heirlooms.

With more than 150 stalls, this is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe, and one any food lover will not want to miss. Beyond fresh veggies, fruits, eggs, and cheese, there are plenty of vendors who sell premade meals, perfect for an impromptu picnic. It happens three times a week.

With the Eiffel Tower as a stunning backdrop, this market focuses on produce and fresh seafood. There are also stands for escargots, meat, eggs, and a smattering of home goods.

This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet.

While there’s no shortage of third-wave coffee roasters in Paris, Noir is among the best, and their cafés among the most abundant. You’ll find them across the city in pretty, modern storefronts. This one in the 8th arrondissement is convenient if you're staying near the Champs-Elysées, and there's a really good one on the Île Saint-Louis, down the street from Berthillon.

Proof that treat trends are pretty consistent, the shop Stohrer was founded in 1730 as the official pâtissier for Louis XV. The same cream-stuffed éclairs, delicate crème Anglaise tarts studded with berries, and rose macarons have been devoured by the French for the last 300 years. The bakery is theatrically beautiful, with glass-paneled walls (giving patrons near 360-degree views of all the sweets), chandeliers, and a full frescoed ceiling—an especially delightful experience for little ones.

This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.

A wildly ornate bas-relief ceiling—moodily lit by Versailles-worthy chandeliers—is actually not the first indication that this isn't your average bar (that would be the gigantic birdcage at the entrance). Occupying the former mansion of composer Georges Bizet (hence the name, Carmen), this Pigalle club gets particularly busy around fashion week, when any number of designers host their after-parties here. While DJs play until 4 a.m. on weekends, the space hosts more-civilized affairs, too.

The name and the pinup poster in the entryway hint at this Pigalle bar’s seedier past as a brothel, but take a closer look and you’ll find yourself in a full-fledged tiki bar, overflowing with pseudo-Polynesian flair. If the excellent rum-based drinks and retro vibe aren’t really your thing, then the other, perfectly balanced proprietary cocktails and extensive beer collection should keep you happy.

Pigalle is home to some of the city’s best nightlife, and Django is one of the most lively bars in the neighborhood for drinks and nibbles. They craft signature cocktails and small plates driven by whatever is freshest and most delicious this season.

This first-come-first-serve wine bar is a tough seat for good reason: The small plates are crafted from superb ingredients, and the wine list is reasonably priced. You can usually snag a spot in the first wave by going early in the week, and arriving 20 minutes before the opening.

With a now-iconic interior that's dripping in red velvet, Hôtel Costes is one of those spots that has perfected its aesthetic—which, of course, extends to the music. It can get dark and smoky inside, so head out to the enclosed terrace (you can still hear whatever the DJ is spinning inside), which is equally great for either an afternoon glass of wine or an after-dinner cocktail. Plus, the people-watching is always fabulous.

Opulent to the max, Le Bar at the George V is one of our favorite places to tuck into a martini: It’s pricey, but it has atmosphere in spades, along with a well-heeled crowd. It's one of these places that feel like time just stops...or maybe it's just the wine.

The young team behind this growing concept came up with the genius idea of opening bars in disused spaces all over Paris—on rooftops, at the old Pavillon at the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, and on a houseboat parked on the Seine. Le Perchoir Ménilmontant, located right on top of a large industrial building might just be their greatest conquest to date: In addition to an incredible view and the trademark cocktails, you'll find snacks by their on-site restaurant.

Gracing the rooftop of one of the Peninsula hotels, L'Oiseau Blanc (the White Bird) is named for a French plane that crashed over the Atlantic in 1927 during a transatlantic flight attempt. The restaurant's décor pays homage to the pilots, complete with a small-scale replica of the biplane that looks like it's flying off the terrace. Even if you're not a history buff, you'll appreciate the sweeping views of the Eiffel Tower and the excellent service.

Located close to what was once Paris's red-light district, Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood's tawdry past. Conceived by nightlife visionary André Saraiva (the force behind Le Baron), the black lacquered bar, brasserie, and outdoor terrace are as scene-y as you can get in Paris. Whether for a boozy Saturday brunch or dinner and drinks, the best seats in the house are outdoors, in the leafy courtyard dotted with vintage ’50s cafeteria tables. The brasserie is open late, and you can linger on for hours until it's time to hit the bar or a nightclub in nearby Pigalle.

Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. Settle onto a velvet barstool, order a glass of champagne or a dirty martini, chat with the friendly bartenders, and order plates of onion rings and tartare on toast as the evening slips into night.

This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.

Situated on the quay of the Docks en Seine—also home to Paris's fashion institute—Wanderlust is a bit more than just a club/bar/restaurant. Though a small part of the enterprise lives indoors, it primarily resides on the sprawling outdoor terrace which overlooks the Seine. Exposed pipes, neon lights, live music (DJs, generally), and a stylish crowd are all hallmarks of this much-buzzed-about destination.

With few exceptions, almost everything that lines the Crayola-colored shelves here rings in at under a hundred euros, whether it's backpacks, patterned wallets, or unique candles.

Though it’s well located on Rue Saint-Honoré, this is the sort of spot that’s easy to walk right by. Inside it’s dimly lit, cloister-like, and achingly cool, complete with rickety, slightly off-kilter shelves that sag under the weight of Astier de Villatte’s ceramic tableware. Made from black terra-cotta clay and then finished in the brand’s signature milky white, these perfectly imperfect dishes are the hallmark of some of the best-dressed tables we know. You’ll also find the house line of geometric-print, gold-rimmed notebooks (made by the last master printer in Paris) and the gorgeously old-fashioned candle and incense collections, along with a handful of oddities, like glassware cast in the shape of skulls and stout little teapots.

The husband-and-wife team behind revamped cosmetics line Buly added a couple degrees of fantasy when furnishing their flagship shop—modeled after a nineteenth-century apothecary—with Tuscan tiled floors, Italian marble counters, intricately carved wooden cupboards, and prettily painted beams. And then there are the products: alcohol-free scents and modern, paraben-free formulations, beautifully packaged in old-fashioned vials and glass jars. Whether you’re in the market or not, this shop is a treat just to look at.

Large and loftlike, this industrial-feeling store has an ambitious mandate: fair-trade clothing and accessories from little-known and established artisan brands, mixed in with a smattering of vintage furniture, art books, records, and indie zines. If you've got little ones, don't miss the outpost devoted to kids.

The Samaritaine department store began as a tiny boutique in 1870 on Rue de Pont-Neuf. It was acquired by luxury behemoth LVMH in 2001 and after a lengthy restoration, the seven-floor Art Nouveau landmark reopened in 2021. There's an expansive glass ceiling, wraparound peacock frescoes by Francis Jourdain (his father, Frantz Jourdain, was the original architect), enameled lava panels on the façade, and swirling gray wrought iron staircases with gold leaf details...all punctuating next-level shopping. That includes incredible fashion and jewelry, yes, as well as art at Gallery Perrotin, chic souvenirs at LouLou, and caviar sandwiches and customizable bottles of Ruinart from “street" vendors sprinkled throughout the space. The incredible beauty department has a great spa, and the top floor restaurant and bar, Voyage, is fantastic. There’s also a separate entrance to get to the Cheval Blanc hotel. The star secret is the L’Appartement salon, where you can book private styling and shopping appointments.

If you’re looking for small gifts or plastic-free home goods, you’ll find them at Landline. The boutique is carefully laid out, with tables and cubbies full of kitchen ceramics, simple wooden children’s toys, and anything else you might find at a chic general store. It feels distinctly Californian (and still oh-so-Paris).

A bookshop and antiquarian for over a century, Librairie Alain Brieux specializes in rare scientific and sometimes esoteric titles, though the real allure is its cabinet-of-curiosities vibe. The windows and interior displays are continually refreshed with weird and wonderful assortments of vintage anatomical models, glass eyes, unusual toys, and the like.

It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, profits go to charities in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; natural shampoos and Comme des Garçons perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting the Used Book Café in the basement, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch.

This just might be the best bookstore in the world. It has the vibe of a warren-like country home rather than a straightforward shop. Books are piled haphazardly from floor to ceiling (many of which are in English), there are benches dotted here and there, and it's staffed mostly by college kids who are full of great recommendations. It’s also home to a rich literary history—over the years, Shakespeare and Company has played host to famous American writers like Allen Ginsberg, Ernest Hemingway, William Burroughs, and William Styron. Founder George Whitman (the shop is now run by his daughter, Sylvia) famously opened up the shop’s cozy benches and couches to artists and writers who needed a place to stay. Many of these drifting creatives—or tumbleweeds, as they became known—went on to become important literary figures in their own right.

Fauve is a spa dedicated to hair. The hair on your head, yes—they offer a massage that aims to revitalize the scalp and boost shine. But also eyebrows (their brow treatment focuses on relieving tension around the eyes) and body hair (removal, specifically, by wax and laser).

If diagnostic tests are your bag, you'll love Nose's recommendation technology, which uses your perfume history to predict what fragrances and home scents you'll like best. While you can do the test online—and shop an encyclopedia of brands right there—an in-store consultation is inarguably more fun, as you can vet the recommendations in person. If nothing from Miller Harris, Acqua di Parma, Penhaligon's, et al. fits the bill, Nose will whip up a custom scent.

Located in a quiet, sun-kissed courtyard, Rasa Yoga is wonderfully unintimidating—even if you don't speak a lick of French. It offers a comprehensive calendar of styles and levels, along with a deep roster of spa treatments from all around the world.

Surprisingly, Le Bristol is the only Parisian hotel allowed to perform facial treatments using La Prairie products. Much like the product line itself, the driving force behind the treatment menu is rejuvenation—as evidenced by treatments like the Caviar Lift Facial and the ultrasoothing Platinum Rare Haute Rejuvenation facial. The best part? You can drop off the littles at the Kids Club for the duration of your treatment.

Yoga, Gyrotonic, Reformer Pilates, and Xtend Barre all under one roof make Studio Rituel a popular wellness destination. And the location, a stone’s throw from the Luxembourg Gardens, doesn’t hurt. The Gyrotonic classes, which involve fluid movement and targeted stretches utilizing the seven natural elements of spinal movement, are particularly helpful if you plan to do a lot of walking. As the class ramps up, these stretches are more like a dance, and over time they dramatically increase your flexibility. The studio also offers holistic treatments like massage and reflexology.

Temple’s boxing class takes place in a chic studio with parquet floors and low lighting. But the real magic comes from the instructors, who meet you where you are: Beginners and experienced boxers will both come out of class sweaty and satisfied.

Cheval Blanc’s 72 spacious rooms and suites occupy what was once the south end of La Samaritaine, one of Paris’s great department stores, and the hotel retains much of the building’s original Art Deco character. (Samaritaine, also now under LVMH ownership, continues to operate next door.) Rooms on the higher floors enjoy views of more distant monuments; from the terrace garden on the rooftop, guests get all 360 degrees, sweeping from the Eiffel Tower to Sacré Cœur. The mostly-subterranean Dior spa is complete with six lush treatment rooms, a tiled indoor pool that looks out over the Seine, and a hammam, sauna, and snow shower, which is exactly what you think it is. The crown jewel of their culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude; reservations are difficult to snatch and worth booking your whole trip around.

In the Latin Quarter, right between Boulevard Saint-Germain and the Seine, Hôtel Dame des Arts is a contemporary gem in a very old part of town. Guest rooms may not be incredibly spacious—this is Paris, after all—but they make good use of their limited square footage, and large windows keep the space from feeling cramped. That said, it’s worth shelling out for a premium room or a suite, some of which come with balconies or private terraces. At the downstairs restaurant, which has a pretty courtyard garden, chef Othoniel Alvarez Castańeda pulls off Mexican-French-Asian fusion. And the rooftop bar is an especially cool place to hang out for sunset drinks; it’s a rare place in Paris with a 360-degree view, and you should soak it in for as long as possible. The teensy spa has just one treatment room (for massages, exclusively) and a sauna, but the fitness room (also small) is visually stunning enough to carve out time for, even if your schedule’s packed.

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs occupies a middle ground that’s increasingly hard to come by in Paris: It’s well-designed and the service is solid, but it’s not true luxury, and the price point matches. The guest rooms run on the small side, but they are quite pretty, done up in a palette of cream, chestnut, pistachio, and slate blue—vaguely nautical, as are a few other details. The downstairs bar is a highlight: Poppy is inspired by the clandestine energy of speakeasies and opium dens, with good cocktails and better DJ sets. You might take advantage of the small gym and sauna downstairs, too.

In Paris’s Little Tokyo, at the end of Rue Sainte-Anne, Hotel Hana feels like a cozy and refined refuge from the bustling streets outside. The 26 guest rooms are designed to combine Belle Epoque glamour with Japanese minimalism, and the results are soft, feminine, and totally relaxing. Hanabi, the bar and restaurant, is moody and lush. There’s a small spa, too, with just two treatment rooms and a pool that’s better for soaking than swimming.

Hotel Madame Rêve draws a particularly cool and fashionable crowd. The restaurants are a big part of the draw: The one downstairs, Kitchen by Madame Rêve, serves contemporary French food in a high-ceilinged space that feels like old-school New York, and the one upstairs, La Plûme, is a buzzy spot for late-night drinks, French-Japanese food, and views of the cathedral next door. There’s a rooftop cocktail bar, too, which you can reserve for private parties. The 82 guest rooms are well-designed, clad in warm wood and golden yellows, many of them with courtyard-facing terraces or views of household-name monuments. The whole place runs dimly-lit, which could be sexy or frustrating depending on your perspective.

La Fantaisie has a rooftop bar, an all-day café, and a dreamy restaurant in a solarium. At the spa, guests enjoy body and facial treatments using the French beauty brand Holidermie and unwind in the spa’s baths, sauna, and hammam. It’s not far from Pigalle’s main drag. But even if none of the above were the case, we’d have fallen in love with this hotel for its pastel palette: light wood, blush, butter yellow, pistachio, and misty blue.

It’s impossible to choose our favorite thing about this glamorous Le Marais hotel: the stripe-bottomed pool with a ceiling fresco by artist Jacques Merle? The in-room beauty bar menu from Oh My Cream that delivers Augustinus Bader, Tata Harper, and more to your door in 30 minutes or less? The rich design that feels as if you've entered a Wes Anderson film? Swedish interior designer Martin Brudnizki took inspiration from the salon culture of the Enlightenment, mixing eclectic prints, beautiful textures, French-artisan-made furnishings, and antiques from Paris flea markets. It’s the fourth luxury property from family-owned boutique hotel group Maisons Pariente—and in true Maisons Pariente fashion, expect elegance and exceptional service. Don’t miss dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant, Boubalé, by Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit.

Above the boutique of artisan tie-maker Cinabre, this hotel consists of only two guest apartments, both beautifully and expertly decorated: upholstery by Pierre Frey, beds by Hästens, linens by Bergan Delorme, tableware by Cristal de Paris, and dressing gowns, slippers, silk scarves, and stationary by Cinabre itself. Plus: in-room massages, excellent room-service breakfast, knowledgeable concierge service, meticulously curated vinyl collections—there’s a vintage turntable in each room—and access to the exclusive and prestigious squash club Club du Jeu de Paume de Paris.

This stylish hotel, squeezed between the Marais and Bastille districts, has a front-row views of the Seine and Île Saint-Louis. Terrazzo marble floors reflect the cobblestone streets of Paris. The lobby is spectacular, with giant pillars, amber-glass mirrored walls, and a striking painting by French-Algerian artist Neïl Beloufa. And the hotel collaborates with artists, florists, and brands on rotating pop-ups. The 162 rooms are sleek and modern, and categorized by view. We love the details like warming-towel racks, bulldog-shaped speakers, and floating nightstands. There’s a fitness center, pool, and intimate Codage spa. (Book ahead for the “haute-couture” massage—it’s fantastic.)

At the bottom of Père-Lachaise, this sweet tavern serves a tight menu of tapas and Catalan wines. It’s worth crossing town for the lush and intimate cobblestone courtyard, where we see ourselves spending long summer afternoons eating grilled octopus and French-fry patatas bravas.

If you’d like to experience classic Parisian bistro food—escargot, duck à l’orange, cordon bleu, foie gras, eggs mayonnaise, frog legs, and more—dodge the tourist traps near the Eiffel Tower and aim straight for Paul Chêne. The food here is excellent and the service is personal and warm. (Often, the owner Harold Chêne will serve you himself.) Don’t skip the orange cognac liqueur, which they make in house based on an old family recipe. The restaurant only has a handful of tables, and they always book out; make reservations by phone and well in advance.

From Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, Boubalé—“my little darling” in Yiddish—serves incredible Ashkenazi food with a twist. We love the classic pierogi potatoes, schnitzel, entrecôte, and the herb salad, but unexpected items like tuna sashimi drizzled with a strawberry sorbet, soy sauce, and olive oil and finished with crunchy dried chives are just as delicious. Book a seat at the chef’s counter to watch all the behind-the-scenes preparation.

The name “snack bar” is misleading; this cozy neighborhood spot is a full-blown natural wine bar with dim lighting and an excellent dinner menu, which changes frequently. Think mussels in harissa bouillon, crispy gochujang chicken wings, tomatoes in lemon caper sauce, and fresh spring asparagus, cooked perfectly.

It would be silly to go to Paris for a smashburger—so prioritize accordingly—but Dumbo does them really well. Expect the classic fixings: American cheese, extra-crispy French fries, and Heinz ketchup, for here or to go.

This little bistro is popular for good wine, a contemporary menu of well-executed small plates, and terrace seating that’s especially lovely on a summer evening. It draws lively and youngish crowd on weekends.

Furia’s tacos are solidly the best in Paris. There are just six on the menu—including shiitake al pastor, cauliflower tempura, slow-roasted pulled pork, or tuna and shoestring fries. All delicious, although the fresh corn tortillas might be the real highlight. Grab a seven-euro glass—or a 35-euro bottle—from the well-curated list of natural wines and finish the night off with an order of flan and ice cream. Furia doesn’t take reservations, and it gets packed; come early.

The tasting menu at Minore might baffle you at first glance. But by the time you finish your first course, you’ll wonder why you haven’t seen black mullet paired with strawberries before. Minore’s inventive menu is the work of chef Katsuaki Okiyama, whose previous restaurant, Abri, firmly kicked off a wave of Japanese-French dining in Paris. The cocktails here are just as surprising and wonderful as the food, thanks to Okiyama’s partner, bartender Hugo Cobe. Try the margarita, made with wasabi, passionfruit, and cherry vinegar.

Ojii pulls off unforgettable Japanese fine dining in a slinky, ‘70s-inspired boîte. They do white-tablecloth in a sexy way, and it’s great for date night: Spend the night eating caviar tuna nigiri and sipping sake cocktails made with sobacha, yuzu, or plum wine.

The crown jewel of Cheval Blanc’s culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude. Chef Arnaud Donckele fuses classic French dishes from Normandy and Paris with Mediterranean inspiration. The meat and fish here are great, but the sauces, creams, and broths steal the show. Reservations are difficult to get and worth booking your whole trip around.

Chef Assaf Granit has become known for flavorful Mediterranean food and good vibes. His fourth Paris restaurant, Tekés, is the kind of place you could bring anyone, for any reason, and know you’ll have a fantastic time. Expect open-fire vegetarian cooking—perhaps grilled leeks, beetroot kabobs, za’atar and garlic galettes—in an airy space with high ceilings. The music is always killer, the vibe celebratory, and the service energetic and personable.

While you can get a delicious lunch or dinner here (plus 360-views and the mirrored Olafur Eliasson installation The Seeing City), the real reason to visit is drinks and dancing; at 11pm, the restaurant transforms into a buzzy nightclub. Set on the top two floors of the SO/ Paris hotel, the club’s leather booths and 70s-disco vibe draws a chic fashionable crowd. Even if you don’t need a cigarette break, go out on the terrace to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle from afar.

As far as we know, Folderol is the first of its kind: a natural wine bar slash ice cream shop. You order at the counter—there’s always a line—to get a glass of whatever the sommelier recommends and a scoop off the ice cream menu, which changes daily. Kids are welcome.

When you step into this specialty tea boutique, the first thing you notice is how good it smells. Follow your nose: Sniff whole-flower teas in stone goblets, open the bulk jars and take a whiff, and pull out the pretty drawers in the wall, which hold teas with names like jardins suspendus (“hanging gardens”). You can’t sample the teas on site, but the shopkeeper will help you pick something to take home.

I/O Café—named for the on/off buttons on a coffee machine—is a simple spot to pick up a cup of specialty coffee from Danish roaster La Cabra.

The team behind the pâtisserie Mamiche opened this takeaway lunch shop just around the corner from their location near the Canal Saint-Martin, serving sandwich stand-bys—ham and cheese, pan con tomate, etc.—as well as little pizzas and side salads. Opt for one of the combos: You can get a sandwich, drink, and dessert for 11 euros, which isn’t a bad price for the neighborhood.

Following in the footsteps of third-wave coffee shops Noir and Ten Belles, indie roaster Momus aims to elevate the standard of coffee in Paris. Founder Lionel Giraud—former artistic director of Chaumet and alumnus of Cartier and Courrèges—focuses on environmentally conscious sourcing, complex flavor, and beautiful presentation. (Each box of coffee is elegantly packaged; they would make great hostess gifts.) The Momus shop is more boutique than café, but the knowledgeable baristas are happy to make you an espresso from their vast collection of beans.

If you’re lucky enough to land an in-person appointment with face massage specialist Jeanne Casimir, you’ll leave with visibly lifted and invigorated skin. Casimir takes up residency at the Bon Marché for a week at a time, and she makes house calls. If you can’t meet her IRL, enroll in her self-massage class, which takes place online.

Clients like Rihanna and Naomi Campbell leave sessions with facialist Sophie Carbonari looking sculpted and luminous. Go to her chic studio at the Palais-Royal for some serious pampering—lymphatic drainage, acupressure, and Japanese Kobido are just a few of the massage therapies she uses. “The idea with face massage is to get energy flowing and to support circulation,” she says. “Stimulating the muscles helps refresh the skin.” We love her ebullient energy, magic hands, and the custom botanical blends she mixes up for clients’ skin.

This pretty and intimate studio maintains a calendar of movement classes—vinyasa and hatha yoga, Pilates, and stretching—plus breathwork and sound baths. There’s also a private treatment room for lymphatic massage, Reiki, hypnosis, and naturopathic consultations.

On summer nights, the crowds here spill out onto the streets; when winter’s chill descends, it’s one of the cozier spots in the Marais.

Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a delicious range of entrées and desserts. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat.

Classic French bistros like Chez Julien are actually getting a little harder to find. Just steps from the Seine, it has an outdoor terrace where you can take in the city views. The most perfect steak frites, crème brûlée, and other traditional dishes are served on logo-emblazoned plates and accompanied by a great wine list. It’s a little on the pricey side but the formal interior (which was rvamped by the Costes brothers) and old-school service make it a good choice to toast a special occasion.

This speakeasy-esque spot in the Marais is run by brothers Mourad and Hakim Mazouz and takes “homey atmosphere” to the next level. For one, it’s set up like a bohemian apartment, with diners taking their pick from the kitchen, dining room, boudoir, or living room—which has a ping-pong table in the center. Upstairs, a smoking lounge is hidden behind a secret doorway (in an antique armoire, naturally). The extreme comfort theme also applies to the menu, with steak frites taking top billing for dinner and an epic brunch spread on weekends.

At lunch, Kitchen is overrun with health-conscious Parisians who sidle up to the communal tables for salads, veggie stews, and cold-pressed juice.

On Sunday, when most restaurants in Paris close shop, our heads go straight to falafel takeaway in the Marais. L’As du Fallafel was the OG—it opened in 1979, ahead of its many imitators on Rue des Rosiers—and it’s without question The One. (Miznon is excellent, too, if you’re looking for a sit-down situation with whole-roasted cauliflower and wine by the glass.)

While we’ve arguably had better Moroccan, Le 404 isn’t really about the food (though the lentils and chicken tagines are a welcome culinary break from beef bourguignon): It’s always a party, best capped off with a cocktail at Andy Wahloo next door (from the same owners). Keep in mind that Le 404 is also open on Sundays, a Parisian rarity.

Since 1946, the Finkelsztajn family has been holding down this yellow-fronted deli, which is known citywide for its rugelach, challah, strudels, bagels, and cheesecake. We go for the pastrami sandwich, which involves cucumber, tomatoes, pickles, and pepper caviar on a perfectly delicate poppy seed covered roll.

Pierre Jancou, who honed his skills at Paris’s popular Racines, opened this hip little mural-tiled restaurant on a windy street in the 10th. There’s a heavy focus on provenance here, especially with the wines, many of which are natural.

Still sporting its original décor from 1903, the horseshoe-shaped bar beckons for a coffee, a kir (white wine and crème de cassis), or a quick meal. While there's a full restaurant in the back, it lacks the prime people-watching you'll get up front.

Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a market (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt).

Besides hosting concerts, art exhibitions, and live performances, this ex-storage space turned squat cultural institution on the Canal Saint-Martin is also home to one of the area's best bars. On busy days, the local art crowd spills out onto the banks of the canal with beers and affordable cocktails from noon until...whenever.

Operating out of a little window stand on the Isle St. Louis, the ice creams and sorbets here justify the sometimes long lines. After all, it’s arguably the best in Paris. Enough said.

Whether you want a green juice to kick off what will otherwise be a day of gluttony, or need a palate-cleanser after a string of rich French meals, this tiny space offers a respite. Besides cold-pressed juice (Paris’s first foray into that space), you’ll find locals feasting on quinoa salads and veggie-laden muffins at the communal table.

We like to take a detour here while shopping on Rue Vieille du Temple. Though the buckwheat crepes are the main draw, there’s a small shop attached to the café that sells jams, ciders, and delicious cheeses.

Baker Christophe Vasseur has won innumerable awards for the pastries at his tiny corner boulangerie in the 10th, which makes perfect sense. Don’t be put off by the lines—which extend around the block—since the effort justifies the wait. Do as the locals do and come here to stock up on daily bread, along with pain aux raisin, and the chausson à la pomme fraîche (puff pastry stuffed with half of a baked apple).

At 400 years old, the Marais-based Marché des Enfants Rouges is worth browsing whether you're hungry or not (you can always stock up on fresh-cut flowers, ephemera, and larder-worthy oils and preserves). But bring an appetite—you'll find a seemingly endless sprawl of food vendors hawking everything from tagines to crepes to hearty sandwiches. Our pick: Chez Taeko's stand, which serves delicious, authentic Japanese fare.

Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of new offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city.

While this chainlet’s busy, color-soaked printed dresses and quirky shoes might be a little over-the-top for our tastes, the global furniture and home accessory finds are a Parisian go-to for injecting a dose of color into a home. At the shop in the 10th, stock up on printed Nathalie Leté dishware, Mexican oilcloths, woven plastic chairs, and more, which are pleasingly crammed into every last nook in the shop.

Part café, part boutique, attention to detail is paramount at this minimalist space, whether it's the streamlined shape of a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Prada loafers, or the perfect cappucino and slice of cake.

Fittingly tiny, this packed-to-the-rafters shop is lined with kids clothing from up-and-coming European designers. Union Jack-emblazoned booties, tulle skirts flecked with sequins, and wee gingham shirts are as appealing to parents as they are to little ones. It's the counterpart to the main, Centre Commercial.

With stints at Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Muegler, and Christian LaCroix under Christophe Lemaire’s belt, launching his own label in 1991 wasn’t a particularly big feat—but what he’s continued to achieve in the intervening years certainly impresses. Lemaire oversaw the rejuvenation of Lacoste in 2000, before moving on to Hermès women in 2010. Meanwhile, he’s persevered with his own collection, which focuses on crisp and classic sportswear in subtly architectural shapes.

This shop literally spans a block—and what feels like a big block. Inside, you'll find every iteration of every modern home trend, which can overwhelm, but if you can take the time to really look, you'll find tons to lug home.

You could spend hours in this shop, where the walls are lined with imported spices and large sacks filled with lentils, rice, and other staples dot the floor. Owned and operated by the same couple for many years, it’s become somewhat of an institution.

Lines like Masscob, The New Society, and Xirena set the tone here, which is equal parts girly and refined.

Love Stories hails from Amsterdam, but the lingerie is so delicate, it may as well be Parisian. The matching sets, which come in varying degrees of skimpiness, are a good place to start. We love the selection of supremely comfortable bralettes in cotton and lace for traveling, or just lounging in. There’s also a smart edit of accessories, and somehow, we can never leave the store without adding a silk sleep mask or floral-print laundry bag (so convenient for storing underwear or purses) to our basket.

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

You could spend an hour browsing through this stationary shop’s selection of handmade paper, calligraphy pens, stamps, boxes, antique cards, and sealing wax. We can’t imagine visiting without finding something you just can’t leave without.

This men’s clothing store strikes just the right balance for picky dressers; it’s not doing too much, nor too little. (Fitting that it’s the brother line to French-girl wardrobe staple Sézane.)

You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee.

The farm behind this mini-chainlet is located in the Loire valley, where they make a range of unpasteurized cheeses, butters, yogurts, and crème fraîches from scratch—while aging the cheeses of area farmers. The demi-sel croquant unpasteurized butter is crazy delicious, and portable, as they're happy to vacuum pack it for the plane.

The only thing effortful about Thanx God I’m a V.I.P. is saying its name. Otherwise, it’s one of the most expertly curated and well-organized vintage shops we’ve ever visited. That’s all thanks to owner Sylvie Chateigner, who’s filled the shop with the good stuff: Moncler puffers, Max Mara trenches, and enough Prada and Dior to fill your closet several times over. There’s a cute coffee bar inside the store, too.

This postmodern building revolutionized the world of architecture—and turned the rarified concept of a museum into something that could be unintimidating and fun. Designed by Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, and Gianfrancho Franchini, the Centre Pompidou is marked by an exterior lined with colorful tubes that hold the center's plumbing, electric, and circulation systems—inside, it's just as interactive. Home to a public library, a center for music and acoustic research, and the Musee National d’Art Moderne, since its inception in 1977 some of the most important modern art in the world has graced its walls, including pieces from Dali, Pollock, Warhol, and Picasso.

This is Chantal Crousel's second location, offering the same reliably excellent mix of emerging and established artists from the contemporary art scene: In the past, she's exhibited talents like Cindy Sherman, Jenny Holzer, Sophie Calle, and Richard Prince.

Chez Valentin may be small in size, but it's big on ambition: The contemporary artwork here always pushes the envelope in the most compelling way.

Best known for giving Damien Hirst his first solo show in 1991, Galerie Perrotin trailblazed in the Asian art market (they also gave Takashi Murakami his first exhibition outside of Japan). Over the intervening years, Galerie Perrotin's pace hasn't dwindled: They continue to launch up-and-coming artists from around the globe.

Thaddaeus Ropac opened his first gallery in Salzburg when he was only 23, followed by an outpost in Paris seven years later. He represents a host of international talents (including Anselm Keifer), and is known for ambitious exhibitions and plenty of guest star curators (including Sofia Coppola). Thaddaeus Ropac also opened a space in the Paris suburb of Pantin, which easily justifies a trip for collectors.

In a wildly compelling juxtaposition, this museum pairs electronic music and digital arts with the facade of an original 19th-century theatre. While the exhibitions are great, try to catch a concert here—and cap it off with a cocktail at the bar.

While the work of photographers like Helmut Newton might hypothetically seem too stark and modern for this rambling and elegant 18th century mansion, it's a combination that totally works: Beyond an impressive permanent collection, this museum always lands the exhibitions everyone is talking about, whether it's Shirin Neshat, Henri Cartier-Bresson, or Sebastião Salgado. Keep in mind that they're closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Even though it occupies a 16th-century cellar beneath the Marquis de Sade’s house, the offerings here are thoroughly child-friendly: The museum showcases antique wands and hats, optical illusions, contraptions, and loads of gorgeously rendered posters and prints. And if you have a little one who loves magic, they do a show (in French) that will totally appeal.

It's rare to find a museum where you can see such a wide breadth of a single artist's work, but in this Marais manse (which dates back to the 1600s), you can see pieces from every period of Picasso's life. In addition, it also houses Picasso's personal art collection, which includes pieces from Cézanne, Rousseau, and Degas, as well as significant African art.

Offered in a traditional hammam setting that will lull you to sleep, the Thai-style massages here are the best in the city. The private rooms come complete with showers, and a candle-lit Jacuzzi. There's an additional location in the 16th.

This is one of the few places in Paris you can take reformer Pilates. People come for the helpful instruction—often delivered in both French and English—and intimate space. Drop into class, no membership required, at one of the two locations: This one’s in the Marais and there’s another in Palais Royal.