La Closerie des Lilas

Built in 1928, this opulent, eight-story hotel—just steps from the Champs Elysée—is pretty much the gold-standard for city-based, luxury hotels. It’s never a bargain, but if your budget can support the splurge, there’s really no better place to stay. Besides the lavishly-appointed rooms, the service is superb, the restaurant boasts three Michelin-stars, and the location is hard to beat.

This iconic palace, right on the Place de la Concorde, was commissioned by Louis XV in the 18th century and has served as a government office, a private home (to several French aristocrats, including Marie Antoinette), and finally a hotel in the early 1900s. Rosewood took over in 2013, and a stay here comes with all the bells and whistles the brand is known for: luxurious amenities, great restaurants, and phenomenal service. Every room has a butler who can help you with tasks both big and small: dinner reservations, or a piping-hot bath, drawn right on time for when you get home.

This elegantly restored hotel is a mere five minutes from Paris’s center of gravity, the Champs-Élysées, which really means it’s five minutes from everything. The first thing to note is that there is an actual hammam in the basement. After a long day of sightseeing, a few laps in the pool followed by a steam is a healing balm for exhausted feet and sore muscles. Aesthetically, the Art Deco influence is quietly done and hidden in the details, like the lamps, the restrained use of marble (and the not-so-restrained use of stripes to beautiful results), pretty velvet upholstery, even the occasional in-room porthole. Unbeatable location aside, the attentive staff and excellent service catapult this new hotel to the top of the short list of excellent places to stay. The adorably small hotel bar and the sexy dining room make leaving that much harder.

Over the years, we’ve built a lot of wonderful memories here, in part because this is the sort of unpretentious and unfussy hotel that focuses on comfort rather than flash. While it’s fronted by an old-world, Beaux Arts exterior, the rooms are chic and modern.

Being that it’s a Mandarin Oriental, you can be assured that this is one of Paris’ finest hotel options. A lush inner courtyard, Thierry Marx restaurants, and sleek, Asian-inspired rooms that are blessedly spacious for Paris are givens, but the Diptyque products and Frette robes make any stay even better. Plus, there’s a spa, pool, and sizable gym.

The Peninsula’s grand outpost in Paris delivers all the luxurious elegance we’ve come to expect from the brand. Housed in a 19th-century building perfectly suited to its style (it opened as a grand hotel back in 1908), the Peninsula is the kind of place where you can trust that no detail is spared. You’ll find enormous bouquets of fresh roses on every spare surface, an extremely attentive staff, and a guaranteed good night’s sleep in their beds. While the spa, bar, and main dining rooms are lovely, our favorite spot is the rooftop restaurant, which offers a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower.

When Ritz Paris opened in 2016 after four years of renovations—the first closure in the hotel’s storied history—loyalists appreciated that the designers kept the hotel’s charming, traditional style firmly intact (if a bit spruced up), down to the grand window treatments, gilded frames, and copious chandeliers. As ever, the rooms are exceptionally luxurious: Each is outfitted with a marble bathroom, generous windows, and famously soft sheets, with many boasting antique furnishings. The hotel is also home to three restaurants, two of which now have retractable glass ceilings on their patios: L’Espadon, for a traditional, white-tablecloth French dining experience, including breakfast and lunch; Bar Vendôme, a moody brasserie with red velvet booths; and the Ritz Bar, a more casual spot with shared plates and an Art Deco design palette. The hotel is home to a stunning fitness center—also available to private club members—where guests can swim laps in a gorgeous tiled pool or sign up for a day of pampering in the Chanel spa. But we’re probably most excited about the reopening of Bar Hemingway, the old author’s historic haunt that’s now famous for some of the world’s best cocktails.

Tucked away in the quiet and leafy 16th near the Champs-Élysées, the Saint James, located in a century-old château, offers a jolt of luxury with its palatial interior, glorious garden, and Michelin-starred restaurant. With its patterned carpets and explosions of color—both in the lobby and in each individually decorated room—it can feel a bit like a country retreat on steroids. This is a Relais & Châteaux property, so expect all the traditional bells and whistles.

Paris is one of those special cities that enthusiastically clings on to the more traditional, elegant remnants of the past—Angelina is an embodiment of this policy. A classic tearoom that first opened in 1903, the over-the-top Belle Epoque interiors create the ambiance for a truly decadent hour (or two) of sweet indulgence. The sculptural cakes and classic patisserie that line the glass cases are the perfect accompaniment to the main event: Angelina's world-renowned hot chocolate. We recommend the Old Style Hot Chocolate, made from a blend of cocoa beans whipped into hot milk and cream for the smoothest, slightly sweet, slightly bitter cup. Angelina also serves up well-executed classic French dishes like croque-madame and quiche Lorraine, but really it's the chocolate—and the people-watching—that makes this Paris institution a favorite with locals and tourists alike.

Alain Ducasse’s Aux Lyonnais is one of those traditional French dining experiences that manages to deftly skirt stuffiness. The old-world façade still has the original sign from the restaurant’s 1914 debút, and the belle époque interior (mirrored walls, intricate tile floors, and an original wooden staircase) feels straight out of central casting. The menu changes seasonally, but you can expect delicious fare reminiscent of a classic bistro in Lyon.

Tucked away in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this eternally cool brasserie mixes classic French and Asian-inspired dishes, like black truffle croque-monsieur, sea bream carpaccio, grilled filet, and the juiciest cheeseburger ever. Old leather cushion banquettes and marble countertops contrast with chic black-floral wallpaper; it’s both cozy and romantic.

This bustling bistro is particularly great for late dinners and brunch: The menu is nice and succinct, offering the classics you want after a few glasses of wine. You’ll find steak au cheval, steak tartare, a selection of burgers, and a sampling of salads, plus a small wine list mostly offered by the carafe. This is one of the few places open on Sunday.

This classic Parisian Art Deco café on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain has played host to everyone from Sartre to Picasso. They came for coffee and people-watching, and so should you: When the weather’s nice, find a spot on the outdoor patio and get a big café crème. (Or swing by just to see the place: The food's just okay, and the crowd inside made up of tourists exclusively, but the institution itself is pretty iconic.)

Chez George is hyper traditional, a little overpriced, and exactly the kind of place where one wants to eat dinner in Paris. A classic bistro in every sense, down to the mirrored walls and too-small tables. As can be expected, steak frites and boeuf bourguignon is the way to go. Unlike some of the other old-world bistros in Paris, the food here is legitimately very good and the atmosphere delivers every time.

Classic French bistros like Chez Julien are actually getting a little harder to find. Just steps from the Seine, it has an outdoor terrace where you can take in the city views. The most perfect steak frites, crème brûlée, and other traditional dishes are served on logo-emblazoned plates and accompanied by a great wine list. It’s a little on the pricey side but the formal interior (which was rvamped by the Costes brothers) and old-school service make it a good choice to toast a special occasion.

Unpretentious and laid-back, this is the sort of restaurant that’s the perfect reprieve after a few days of big, loud brasseries. The food is simple but well-prepared and nicely affordable, too.

Chez Dumonet has been serving up classic bistro fare for decades, in a dining room that dates back over a century (to 1880 to be exact). Its Belle Epoque vibe is totally charming, made even better by the clientele: You can be assured that everyone in the dining room is likely a grandparent a few times over. Keep in mind that Chez Dumonet offers many half orders, which is key if you’re not staying in a spot that can accommodate leftovers (portions tend to be generous).

After a week in Paris, when it’s time to lay off the butter and goose fat, we head here. It’s not the sort of restaurant that’s going to change your life, but their seaweed salad and sashimi is solidly decent. And with two sleek and spacious floors, there’s room enough for everyone. At night, when the lights get dimmer and the music louder, it can get a bit scene-y.

La Laiterie (translation: the dairy, which is what this tiny spot used to be), is located in a section of the Left Bank that’s particularly popular with tourists—the Musée Rodin and Musée d’Orsay are both within walking distance. Though the staff here will happily explain the dishes (leek soup, poached eggs, steak with new potatoes) in near-perfect english to out-of-towners, a good portion of the patrons are locals, which really speaks volumes for the pared-down, comfort-food-centric menu.

Power lunchers from the publishing and political worlds tend to pack out the black booths at this discreet, hard-to-find spot (it’s pricey, so an expense account helps). They come for the fresh seafood, and the fact that 21 feels more like a private club than a restaurant.

Bistrot Paul Bert is what any French restaurant ought to be: It features old-school, understated décor; simple but solid food at reasonable prices (including an excellent entrecôte); and brusque waiters. Don’t skip dessert, particularly the not-too-sweet tarte tatin.

Fresh and wonderful seafood—served in a dining room that feels like the captain's dining room in a ship—justifies the haul to this slightly out of the way institution. The preparations here are blessedly simple and unflashy, which further underlines the consistently excellent quality of their catch.

This historic restaurant—it’s the oldest in Paris, actually—has taken up the same spot in the Palais-Royal since 1784. While it’s been thoroughly modernized, the majority of beautiful neoclassical embellishments are intact, and the tables are still marked with the names of literary legends (Victor Hugo, John Paul-Sartre, Voltaire) who frequented the spot way back when. The restaurant has lost all three of its Michelin stars, and chef Guy Martin pivoted to a more bistro-style menu, but we've heard it's still stellar.

The décor of La Petit Lutetia is that of a classic Paris bistro, with charming mirrored walls, monogrammed dishes, haphazard stacks of newspapers, and too-small tables. While the food is certainly good, you’re here for the people-watching, an endless parade of beautifully outfitted Parisians ducking out for cigarettes between courses and drinking seemingly endless glasses of red wine like water.

Café culture is one of the many institutions that make Paris such a pleasure to visit. An hour spent sitting outside with a café au lait and a croissant watching the Parisians pass by is time well spent. Les Deux Magots in the heart of Saint-Germain has been one of the preferred literary and creative spots forever, with regulars including Picasso and Hemingway. The menu touches the greatest hits; the croque-madame is especially good, but honestly, a coffee or—hell, you’re on vacation—a glass of champagne outside under the canopy is the way to go.

It’s admittedly scene-y, but the tiny Le Stresa is also undeniably fun: Red velvet banquettes, a sea of ornate mirrors, and piles of pasta make it all even better. Like many restaurants in Paris, it’s closed on the weekends.

Situated right on the river, you can opt to take a seat in the front café for lighter fare (coffees, drinks, and classic sandwiches), or in the back, where they serve full meals. We love the grapefruit and avocado salad, but we particularly love the excellent people watching at lunch.

While this isn’t our first stop when we descend on Paris—and arguably should be skipped if you have limited time in the city—this Jean-Georges, Asian-inspired French restaurant is reliably good. And the Christian Liagre-designed space is elegant, without ever compromising comfort.

Parisians swear Pierre Hermé's macarons are the best in town, and we're inclined to agree. After all, the pastry wunderkind (he began his career as an apprentice to Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, before becoming the pastry chef of Fauchon when he was only 24) is known for infusing his ganaches with interesting combinations, like his famous Ispahan, which blends rose, lychee, and raspberry. The chocolates and croissants shouldn't be missed either.

There's a certain sexiness to hotel restaurants, and Michelin-starred Pur' at the Park Hyatt oozes it. Chef Jean-François Rouquette has put together a menu of flawless interpretations of classic French dishes, served in the refined, many-columned dining room. For a blow-out, completely seasonal meal in Paris, Pur' delivers—drink your wine at the table and save a post-dinner digestif for the elegant Park Hyatt bar.

Tucked away down a flight of stairs, this cave-like find offers an excellent omakase experience with two menus to choose from. They specialize in kushiagué, which basically means that they specialize in delicious ingredients grilled on sticks, each one prepared differently.

Still sporting its original décor from 1903, the horseshoe-shaped bar beckons for a coffee, a kir (white wine and crème de cassis), or a quick meal. While there's a full restaurant in the back, it lacks the prime people-watching you'll get up front.

This moody, leather-accented bar is famous for being an old haunt of so many Paris creatives—in addition to Hemingway himself, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Cole Porter, and Gary Cooper were all regulars. Legend has it that Marcel Proust ordered a cold beer from here on his deathbed. Colin Peter Field, who ran Bar Hemingway for decades and arguably made it the destination that it is, is no longer there. However, his deputy, Anne-Sophie Prestail, took over in 2023 and has continued the tradition of deliciously stiff drinks and rose garnishes.

Opulent to the max, Le Bar at the George V is one of our favorite places to tuck into a martini: It’s pricey, but it has atmosphere in spades, along with a well-heeled crowd. It's one of these places that feel like time just stops...or maybe it's just the wine.

If you have the time for a bespoke, engraved stationery order, you can’t do much better than Benneton. While it’s helmed by a woman who can be a bit gruff (it’s been in the family since 1880), the gorgeous wares make the whole experience worthwhile. They also offer really pretty and simple leather goods, like pocket books and card cases.

Beautifully turned out bras in the finest satins and lace are mainstays at this little red-and-gold boutique, which has been focused on corsetry since the end of the 19th century. It’s all deeply refined and restrained, which makes the pieces all the sexier. They also make made-to-measure custom lingerie, which just might be the ultimate luxury.

Like many of its fashion-centric brethren, Céline launched in the '40s, though with a singular focus on bespoke leather shoes for children. And then it all changed: Céline branched into womenswear in the ’60s, rose to prominence under Michael Kors in the '90s, and is now an established staple, loved for its streamlined, modern shapes.

Coco Chanel opened her first boutique in the 1st, back in 1910, and it’s still the best place to see the full expression of the brand. Spanning three lushly-appointed, black and white floors, the cap-toed ballet flats, quilted bags, and tweedy jackets are all connected by a sweeping central staircase. If you can’t make it to the flagship, there are many more locations across Paris, plus ample representation in Paris’s three main department stores.

Established in 1838 by Joseph-Christophe Charvet—the son of the man responsible for Napoleon’s wardrobe—this bespoke shirtmaker has been outfitting royalty ever since. Charvet pioneered the concept of custom tailoring (and the shirt collar as we know it today). To this day, they offer exquisite shirting, as well as men’s and women’s pajamas, ties, and scarves.

Launched by Egyptian-born Gaby Aghion in the ’50s, Chloé skipped the formality of haute couture in favor of going straight to off-the-rack ready-to wear, a new concept at the time. Perennially feminine (a hallmark the brand has never deviated from), the brand became big under the watchful eye of Karl Lagerfeld in the ’60s and ’70s.

Sure, you’ll find Christian Louboutin’s full range of red-soled stilettos and studded loafers here, but you’ll also find unparalleled customer service. They maintain a strict 1:1 ratio of salespeople to clients, and while this might seem like it would result in helicopter-like hovering, it doesn’t. Instead, they swoop in only when you have a question or need a size. There are numerous locations across Paris, along with in-department store options.

With stints at Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Muegler, and Christian LaCroix under Christophe Lemaire’s belt, launching his own label in 1991 wasn’t a particularly big feat—but what he’s continued to achieve in the intervening years certainly impresses. Lemaire oversaw the rejuvenation of Lacoste in 2000, before moving on to Hermès women in 2010. Meanwhile, he’s persevered with his own collection, which focuses on crisp and classic sportswear in subtly architectural shapes.

In 1634, grocer and wax merchant Claude Trudon opened a store on Rue St. Honoré—and Trudon has been lighting the city’s palaces and homes ever since. Thanks to their superlative wax and rigorous candle-making process, the scented pillars burn for hours—without ever sputtering or smoking. They’re not cheap—after all, as company lore would have it, Napoleon’s only gift to his newborn son was a Trudon candle encrusted with three pieces of gold—but they are exquisite. The Paris boutique, complete with a rainbow wall of tapers, busts cast in wax, and the full expression of fragrances, shouldn’t be missed.

This is one of those French institutions that's impossible to miss: You can pretty much buy everything here, from a Chanel bag to truffles. It’s great for tourists in particular, since they can streamline the VAT process. Don’t miss the roof, which offers pretty epic views of Paris.

Helmed by Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy is one of the French fashion houses that manages to straddle multiple aesthetics without any brand confusion. Floor-skimming, gorgeously draped gowns blend seamlessly with crystal-studded tanks and white linen pants We like the accessories best, though, like engraved silver chains and boxy architectural totes.

While Goyard was established as a trunkmaker and packer in 1792, it was a relative secret until about a decade ago, when the world at large decided that they couldn’t live without Goyard’s signature thin-strapped, hand-painted canvas totes. Available in a rainbow of colors, the luggage here literally lasts forever: It’s all monogrammable, and you can add stripes and symbols as well. While it’s available at a few Paris addresses, the flagship has been in its Rue Saint-Honoré home since 1834, making it an easy favorite.

While there are Eric Bompard stores scattered across Paris, we like the one on Rue François best. The cashmere knits come in an astounding range of colors, styles, and sizes, and they're well-priced.

Inconceivable as it may sound, we like Hermès’ Left Bank outpost even more than the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré original. Occupying a 1935 Art Deco landmark, which at one time was a swimming pool (the mosaic tile floor remains), this location is a complete brand departure. Archways made from undulating latticed wood reach toward the skylights, and the displays are spare. Beyond the usual suspects of scarves, ties, watches, and saddlery, the space hosts an in-house florist, a bookshop, and a café as well. There is also two other locations, the original in the 1st and another in the 6th.

Founded in the late 19th-century, Jeanne Lanvin’s fashion house is one of the world’s longest-lasting, thanks to a recent jolt back into the mainstream by designer Alber Elbaz. The perfumes have always been iconic, as are the columnar dresses in muted pastel tones (and now, of course, the elastic edged ballet flats).

The Samaritaine department store began as a tiny boutique in 1870 on Rue de Pont-Neuf. It was acquired by luxury behemoth LVMH in 2001 and after a lengthy restoration, the seven-floor Art Nouveau landmark reopened in 2021. There's an expansive glass ceiling, wraparound peacock frescoes by Francis Jourdain (his father, Frantz Jourdain, was the original architect), enameled lava panels on the façade, and swirling gray wrought iron staircases with gold leaf details...all punctuating next-level shopping. That includes incredible fashion and jewelry, yes, as well as art at Gallery Perrotin, chic souvenirs at LouLou, and caviar sandwiches and customizable bottles of Ruinart from “street" vendors sprinkled throughout the space. The incredible beauty department has a great spa, and the top floor restaurant and bar, Voyage, is fantastic. There’s also a separate entrance to get to the Cheval Blanc hotel. The star secret is the L’Appartement salon, where you can book private styling and shopping appointments.

Though it's often (mistakenly) credited as being the first department store, there's no doubt that Le Bon Marché's founders, Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut, were pioneers, particularly in a culture that so adamantly prizes specialty stores. Launched in 1838 as an extension of the Boucicaut's single market stall, it became a fixed-price department store in 1850 (before that, you would barter), moving into its sweeping, Art Deco home in 1867. While it's been expanded several times since (and now belongs to LVMH), it's still inarguably one of the most beautiful, large-scale shops in existence. Whether you're looking for Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Maje, or Iro, it's likely here: Along with lingerie, kids clothing, furniture, household essentials, and shoes and bags. The food hall, La Grande Épicerie, is pretty insane, offering a rich array of specialty products, from Fauchon macarons to Baltic smoked fish. Many visitors concentrate their buying power here in order to hit the spending level required for VAT.

At age 13, Louis Vuitton Malletier left the rural town of Anchay and made his way, by foot, to Paris, finding work and food along the way (it took him three years). After apprenticing with a box maker and packer, Vuitton managed to land the job of packer and box maker to the Empress of France, and the rest is history. In 1858, Vuitton introduced a rectangular trunk made from lightweight canvas, which is more durable and lighter than leather, revolutionizing the art of packing.

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

You could spend an hour browsing through this stationary shop’s selection of handmade paper, calligraphy pens, stamps, boxes, antique cards, and sealing wax. We can’t imagine visiting without finding something you just can’t leave without.

If diagnostic tests are your bag, you'll love Nose's recommendation technology, which uses your perfume history to predict what fragrances and home scents you'll like best. While you can do the test online—and shop an encyclopedia of brands right there—an in-store consultation is inarguably more fun, as you can vet the recommendations in person. If nothing from Miller Harris, Acqua di Parma, Penhaligon's, et al. fits the bill, Nose will whip up a custom scent.

Constructed as a home for Cardinal Richelieu in the 17th century, the Palais Royal has had a colorful, and multi-varied past, housing a handful of royals over the centuries, and taking its turn as the centerpiece of Paris’ social scene. It turned into a shopping complex in 1784, and hosted about 150 places of business, from tea shops to book stores to hair salons and boutiques. Not much has changed in the intervening years: Now, labels like Rick Owens, Acne, and Serge Lutens have taken refuge in this gorgeous arcade, which overlooks stunning gardens. If your budget allows, tuck into a very special dinner at the classic Le Grand Véfour on the northwest corner of the building.

Like its department store brethren, Printemps has been around for centuries. But, it was the first to install elevators (1870’s) and electric lighting (1888). In fact, patrons could see the power plant that made the magic happen behind glass. These days, Printemps is still progressive. There’s an emphasis on luxury here, with shop-in-shops for Chanel, Stella McCartney, and Kenzo.

Rose Repetto’s now-iconic brand is as known for their colorful ballet flats as they are for the shoes that outfit the world’s prima ballerinas. After a revitalization in 2000 and a string of high-profile collaborations with brands like Comme des Garçons, Balenciaga, and Yohji Yamamoto, you can find Repetto flats everywhere (in a trademark, 64-pack of colors), though a visit to the Opera flagship is still really worthwhile.

Photographer, creative director, filmmaker, makeup artist, parfumier—Serge Lutens is one of those rare souls who seems to make what he wants to make. He got his start with Vogue, before moving on to launch beauty for Christian Dior, and then Shiseido. His photographs have been exhibited at the Guggenheim, his short films have premiered at Cannes, and he created an “olfactory maze” in his hometown of Lilles of scents of his childhood. At his namesake shop in the Palais Royal, you’ll find his gorgeous perfumes, as well as his full makeup range.

Located on the Western edge of Paris, which requires a brief train trip or drive, Louis XIV's over-the-top pleasure palace is so ridiculously ornate that you'll want to get dressed up for the occasion, if only because every surface is reflective, from the gilded mirrors to the glittery chandeliers. The gardens are just as impressive as the palace, and, in the summer, offer train rides, rowing, and biking. Don’t miss the Petit Trianon, which were Marie Antoinette’s private quarters.

Erected by Catherine de Medici in 1564 as part of the Tuileries Palace, this public garden has a textured past (it was the hunting grounds of Louix XIII). Now, it's an excellent place to take a long-ish walk, alongside sculptures from Auguste Rodin, Henry Moore, and even Roy Lichtenstein. It's also home to the Jeu de Paume and its collection of contemporary art, along with the Musée de l’Orangerie, which famously houses Monet's Water Lillies.

One of the prettiest and most popular parks in Paris still feels fairly local. Less traversed by tourists than the Tuileries and with more to do, the Jardin du Luxembourg is where you’ll catch Parisians soaking up the sun in front of the palace, playing chess at public tables, hitting balls on the tennis courts, and challenging one another to lively games of pétanque. And this park really shines when it comes to occupying little kids: Children can sail model boats in the fountains, watch shows at the puppet theatre, or ride donkeys on the vintage carousel. The park sits on the border of the Latin quarter and Saint-Germain—both worth a walk through, but if you have to pick, you should prioritize the latter.

When a handful of city cemeteries were closed in the 18th and 19th centuries because they were overflowing and posed a threat to public health, the bodies of more than six million Parisians were relocated to a former quarry below the city. What's even gnarlier is that bones and skulls were used to create its walls. You can tour the labrynth-like ossuary—and theoretically visit the remains of notables like Rabelais and Robespierre—but this is not for the claustrophic, and probably not for kids.

You know the Musée de l’Orangerie because of its collection of massive Monet water lilies in stark-white, oval-shaped rooms. They’re definitely worth sitting in front of for 10, 20, 30 minutes. But after that, venture downstairs: The place is filled with Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings and is quietly one of the best museums in Paris.

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, occupying the northwest wing of the Louvre, houses a massive collection of furniture, tapestries, ceramics, glassware, sculptures, paintings, and fashion dating from the 13th century to the present. If you’re into history and interior design, you’ll love it. But people really flock here for the temporary exhibitions, which often feature archival collections from iconic fashion houses like Dior, Dries Van Noten, and Iris van Herpen.

Sited in the former Gare d'Orsay, a soaring, glass-ceilinged Beaux-Arts railway station built in the late 19th-century, the permanent collection here spans from neoclassicism to art nouveau. The big draw, though, is the museum's deep collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art, which includes works by Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Seurat, and more.

In its original 12th-century incarnation, the Louvre was a fortress (you can still see remnants of this down in the crypt). It morphed over the years into a larger and larger palace until Louis XIV decamped to Versailles and left it to house the royal collection (which already included Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa). It didn’t assume its museum status until after the French Revolution, at which point its acquisition pace quickened intensively. The museum has almost 400,000 pieces, of which about 35,000 are on display at any given time. While the crowds queue up around I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid, you can buy advance tickets online. Though it’s theoretically possible to marathon your way through the museum in one swoop, we strongly recommend scattering a few short(er) visits across the length of your stay. If you’re traveling with kids, THATMuse organizes themed treasure hunts through the museum.

Auguste Rodin donated his complete collection—including the pieces for which he's most famous like The Thinker and The Gates of Hell—to France so long as they promised to transform the very stately Hôtel Biron, which was his workshop from 1908 on, into a museum. There are thousands of his sculptures on-site, in both the museum's halls and scattered throughout the surrounding gardens, along with highlights from his personal art collection (Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, and Camille Claudel—who was his mistress, his student, and a great sculptor in her own right).

Though it's arguably most famous for being the backdrop to Gaston Leroux's The Phantom of the Opera, its real acclaim comes from the fact that it's a stunningly opulent Second Empire masterpiece. While in its first life it was home to the Paris Opera, it now hosts the Ballet. It's absolutely worth making a night of it if only to see the Grand Foyer.

Modeled after the Pantheon in Rome, this giant mausoleum houses the remains of some of Paris's most famous citizens: Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Jean Monnet, Marie and Pierre Curie, Emile Zola, and as of 2002, Alexandre Dumas. And it was under the central dome that Léon Foucault constructed his pendulum to demonstrate the rotation of the earth (the original now lives in the Musée des Arts et Métiers). In 2007, Jacques Chirac dedicated a plaque in The Pantheon to the thousands of French citizens who harbored Jews during the German occupation, protecting them from concentration camp internment.

Paris's largest (and most historic) cemetery plays home to pretty much everyone you'd ever want to commune with after death: Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Georges-Pierre Seurat, Gertrude Stein, and Édith Piaf all rest here—plots are still available, but the waiting list is long.

It's rare to find a museum where you can see such a wide breadth of a single artist's work, but in this Marais manse (which dates back to the 1600s), you can see pieces from every period of Picasso's life. In addition, it also houses Picasso's personal art collection, which includes pieces from Cézanne, Rousseau, and Degas, as well as significant African art.

Located at the summit of the butte Montmartre—the highest point in the city—a 234-step climb affords spectacular, panoramic views of Paris.

Offered in a traditional hammam setting that will lull you to sleep, the Thai-style massages here are the best in the city. The private rooms come complete with showers, and a candle-lit Jacuzzi. There's an additional location in the 16th.

The company’s three-story flagship spa is set in a quiet courtyard off the Champs-Élysées, and no two treatments are alike. Instead, skin is meticulously examined with the Skin Instant Lab, which measures moisture, elasticity, pigmentation, and oil production. Next you’re ushered into a gorgeous, all-white treatment room, where a custom regimen of products for the facial is selected.

Australian-born hair stylist David Mallet's impeccable reputation is understandable: His rolodex of devoted editors, celebrities, and designers is deep, plus his army of pros do hair in a gorgeous, sun-washed space that's far from prying eyes. Herringbone floors, gold gilded molding, Eero Saarinen tulip chairs, and an aviary of rare taxidermied birds (white peacocks, ostriches, et al.) are nice touches, but they all play second fiddle to David Mallet's truly transformative cuts and color.

It may be a cliché that Parisians have perfect, perfectly imperfect hair, but it's probably a cliché for good reason. That tousled sensibility is partly because of Delphine and her team, who stand in the shadows behind some of the city's best heads. While the services here are top-notch, there's nothing intimidating about the girlishly glamorous salon, and the menu is well-priced considering the quality.

This is one of those spots that doesn't feel like it could possibly be in a bustling city: Faced with a flowering courtyard, stone walls, and a glass ceiling, La Maison Dr. Hauschka is oh-so-quiet. Fitting really, because the facials and massages are relaxing enough to knock anyone out. Their signature facial, developed by Dr. Hauschka co-founder Elisabeth Sigmund, is two hours of pure bliss—deep cleansing, layers of masks, compresses, and incredibly effective skin care.

Maison Guerlain's perfumes—in all their original, vintage-cut-glass glory—orbit around a giant chandelier on the ground floor here, which is probably the first clue that opulence awaits. Next, you'll notice the gold mosaic tiled walls as you ascend the sweeping staircase to the spa: Established in 1939, it's one of the first of its kind. The perfume house dates back to 1828, though it really hit its stride in 1853 when Pierre-Francis Guerlain created Eau de Cologne Impériale for Napoleon III. Washed in white marble, the spa is luxurious and precise—the facials, in particular, are straightforward and effective.

Vaulted stone ceilings and walls (vestiges from its first life as a 17th century wine cellar) may not immediately channel comfort and warmth, but Spa Nuxe is balanced by any number of tropical flourishes, like palm leaves, rattan, and a cozy pool for Watsu (there are multiple outposts in Paris). The gentle, plant-based Nuxe line never gets any complaints from us either, particularly when administered during a soothing facial.

If you've overindulged on steak-frites and can't handle the thought of another buttery sole meunière, eschew the delicious but heavy bistro classics for some Mediterranean at Bonhomie. A café meets cocktail bar meets restaurant near the chic Marais district, sitting on a royal-blue leather stool in the beautiful, modern, white-and-gold interior feels like a breath of fresh air. The menu leans on Moroccan influences with a former Frenchie chef at the helm—dishes like minty chickpeas and labneh and harissa lamb with tabbouleh take center stage. If you happen to pass by at an odd afternoon hour, a coupe de champagne at the long marble bar is the way to go.

Bouillon Pigalle is a restaurant of the proletariat. Though it would be more accurate to call it a restaurant of the proletariat of Paris who favor watercress salad, escargots, beef bourguignon, frites, and a menu that is as true to a bistro menu as it can be. Historically, in French restaurant vernacular, a "bouillon" is a restaurant that served bouillon-which is to say good, afforable food, that appealed to the working class. And Bouillon Pigalle is the modern version: 300 seats; a festive, bustling vibe; and a crowd willing to wait the better part of an hour for table. No matter. The profiteroles are that good.

It takes nerve (and talent) for an American to take a French concept and re-create it for a famously hard-to-please Parisian audience. In chef Jody Williams's case, her French-inspired wine bar, Buvette, has been embraced with open arms. She tested the concept in New York first—there is a much-loved West Village outpost—and exported her gastrothèque to Paris, to rave reviews. In this romantic, perfectly Parisian little wine bar, you can expect a wonderful cocktail and wine list, and a petite menu of small versions of dishes like coq au vin, moules, and tartines. They also serve several local, seasonal salads—good ones are still hard to find in many traditional French restaurants.

Nantes-born Gregory Marchand, who cooked under both Jamie Oliver and Danny Meyer (he earned his nickname “Frenchie” while cooking with Oliver), offers a subtle worldly perspective on classic French cooking via a tiny set menu (145 euros per person). Reservations are hard to get, though Marchand’s walk-in-only venture, Frenchie bar à vins, is an option should you fail to land a table, and there’s also his Italian restaurant down the street, Altro Frenchie.

The Marais is flush with casual dining spots, which means this two-story restaurant fits in perfectly. There are communal tables on the ground floor for larger parties and walk-ins, and the menu, though full of French delicacies, isn’t the least bit pretentious. The wine list is nicely reasonable, too, in both selection and price.

Thanks to loads of press and a swift global expansion in 2005 (there are now outposts in New York, London, Lebanon, Japan, Sweden, Hong Kong, Brazil, Los Angeles, and more), the Ladurée celadon green is almost as iconic as Tiffany blue or Hermès orange. It all started in 1862 at 16 rue Royale, when writer Louis Ernest Ladurée opened a pastry shop. Though macarons had been kicking around France since the sixteenth century, when Catherine de Medici introduced them from Italy, Ladurée’s grandson revolutionized the concept in 1930 by using a bit of ganache to create a macaron sandwich. Beyond sweets, Ladurée's dinner service is great, with a kid-friendly menu that adults can enjoy, too. Although the original Ladurée is a fixture on the Champs-Elysées, there are multiple locations throughout the city to enjoy.

The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table.

This quaint little restaurant serves excellent French food—cassoulet, steak tartare, and chocolate cake—in an unstuffy Art Nouveau dining room. The adjoining shop, complete with ham hocks hanging from the rafters, has a killer selection of French wines, cheeses, and other specialty items.

If you find yourself with time alone, grab one of the single-occupancy tables outside, which face onto the small square; that said, if you’re saddled with the little ones, this spot is blessedly kid-friendly, too. A bottle of red and the boeuf bourguignon—served with lemon rind, pasta, and pine nuts—is the meal to get here.

Le Dauphin is immediately next door to its sister restaurant, Le Chateaubriand. Locals hover around the marbled bar (there are only a handful of tables) for well-priced—though complex—small plates and surprisingly affordable wine.

Le Grand Salon, located at the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, is designed to offer a respite from the craziness of the city. The classic French cuisine and seasonal cocktails can easily stand on their own, but you'll enjoy them even more if you sit in the property’s hidden garden. The weekend brunch is legendary, and the intimate bar, Le Très Particulier, is worth a visit.

This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.

Named for an infamous shipwreck—the boat was found intact, including its stores of liquor, though the crew had vanished—Le Mary Celeste got a lot of ink in the press when it opened: The young team behind this restaurant in the 3rd is the same one behind taqueria Candelaria. Like its sister restaurant, Le Mary Celeste has a drinks menu that's long and formidable, while the food menu is a bit more succinct. It’s all about oysters and other small plates that are intended to be shared. Though it does take reservations, it's just as easy to grab a seat at the bar.

You know exactly what to expect at this, kitschy, family-owned establishment and that is the best steak frites in town topped with buttery, herby “secret” sauce. That’s it, and it’s worth lining up for at this is a no-reservations locale. Touristy though it may be, it remains a local’s mainstay, too, as proof of its great quality.

This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.

A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & The Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—blue moon smoothies, golden lattes, and matcha mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call.

The exterior of À la Mère de Famille—an emerald-green storefront with more windows than walls—looks like a jewelry box, or rather, a chocolate box; you can see the cakes and chocolates and towers of beautifully packaged bars from down the block. Open since 1761, one of the many pleasures of this particular confectioner is the breadth of old-world caramels, nougat, boiled sweets, and marshmallows. And nothing much has changed inside, either. Taking in the old tile floor, the floor-to-ceiling shelves stacked with preserves and syrups, and the elaborate table displays as you make your way to the counter is an exercise in both nostalgic pleasure and control.

This teeny ice cream spot specializes in Asian-inspired flavors like pandan, kinako, soy sauce, hojicha tea, and White Rabbit candy—you can order a scoop in a cone, cup, or milkshake, or in mochi or as an affogato. Prioritize the house specialty: panko-encrusted fried ice cream sprinkled with toppings—maybe black sesame seeds, matcha, or popcorn. Café Isaka also has a strong menu of coffee and teas, including ube, peanut, and Thai milk tea.

Yves Camdeborde was so busy at his popular Left Bank restaurant, Le Comptoir, that he opted to accommodate the overflow by opening a tiny bar à vin next door. Though it’s standing room only, which is quite common in Paris, the delicious Béarnais-style small plates are worth tempting discomfort. We promise it’s a pleasant experience.

Offering bilingual cooking classes, La Cuisine Paris teaches the basics of French cooking along with master classes in everything from macarons to poultry. If you're booking in August, make sure to ask whether they are taking Mondays off.

Located between the 16th and 7th arrondisements, the quiet, well-mannered vibe of this market is well suited to its upscale clientele. (It’s a great option if you’re the kind of shopper who is easily overwhelmed by shouting vendors and pushy customers.) As for the wares, expect fresh bread, flowers, seafood, olives, spices, vegetables, cheese, fruit, and even prepared foods. Friends tell us that farmer Joël Thiébault (who owns a family-run vegetable operation just outside the city) is a standout for his unique, visually stunning heirlooms.

With more than 150 stalls, this is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe, and one any food lover will not want to miss. Beyond fresh veggies, fruits, eggs, and cheese, there are plenty of vendors who sell premade meals, perfect for an impromptu picnic. It happens three times a week.

With the Eiffel Tower as a stunning backdrop, this market focuses on produce and fresh seafood. There are also stands for escargots, meat, eggs, and a smattering of home goods.

This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet.

While there’s no shortage of third-wave coffee roasters in Paris, Noir is among the best, and their cafés among the most abundant. You’ll find them across the city in pretty, modern storefronts. This one in the 8th arrondissement is convenient if you're staying near the Champs-Elysées, and there's a really good one on the Île Saint-Louis, down the street from Berthillon.

Proof that treat trends are pretty consistent, the shop Stohrer was founded in 1730 as the official pâtissier for Louis XV. The same cream-stuffed éclairs, delicate crème Anglaise tarts studded with berries, and rose macarons have been devoured by the French for the last 300 years. The bakery is theatrically beautiful, with glass-paneled walls (giving patrons near 360-degree views of all the sweets), chandeliers, and a full frescoed ceiling—an especially delightful experience for little ones.

This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.

A wildly ornate bas-relief ceiling—moodily lit by Versailles-worthy chandeliers—is actually not the first indication that this isn't your average bar (that would be the gigantic birdcage at the entrance). Occupying the former mansion of composer Georges Bizet (hence the name, Carmen), this Pigalle club gets particularly busy around fashion week, when any number of designers host their after-parties here. While DJs play until 4 a.m. on weekends, the space hosts more-civilized affairs, too.

The name and the pinup poster in the entryway hint at this Pigalle bar’s seedier past as a brothel, but take a closer look and you’ll find yourself in a full-fledged tiki bar, overflowing with pseudo-Polynesian flair. If the excellent rum-based drinks and retro vibe aren’t really your thing, then the other, perfectly balanced proprietary cocktails and extensive beer collection should keep you happy.

Pigalle is home to some of the city’s best nightlife, and Django is one of the most lively bars in the neighborhood for drinks and nibbles. They craft signature cocktails and small plates driven by whatever is freshest and most delicious this season.

Donna is right down the street from the Centre Pompidou, so you can stop in after your museum visit to chat about Mondrian, Matisse, and Duchamp over a glass of natural wine. But this bar is worth going out of your way for, too: The wine list is tightly curated, the food creative, the crowd lively, and the playlist consistently good. Wander up to the second floor for a quieter, more intimate space.

This first-come-first-serve wine bar is a tough seat for good reason: The small plates are crafted from superb ingredients, and the wine list is reasonably priced. You can usually snag a spot in the first wave by going early in the week, and arriving 20 minutes before the opening.

With a now-iconic interior that's dripping in red velvet, Hôtel Costes is one of those spots that has perfected its aesthetic—which, of course, extends to the music. It can get dark and smoky inside, so head out to the enclosed terrace (you can still hear whatever the DJ is spinning inside), which is equally great for either an afternoon glass of wine or an after-dinner cocktail. Plus, the people-watching is always fabulous.

The young team behind this growing concept came up with the genius idea of opening bars in disused spaces all over Paris—on rooftops, at the old Pavillon at the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, and on a houseboat parked on the Seine. Le Perchoir Ménilmontant, located right on top of a large industrial building might just be their greatest conquest to date: In addition to an incredible view and the trademark cocktails, you'll find snacks by their on-site restaurant.

Gracing the rooftop of one of the Peninsula hotels, L'Oiseau Blanc (the White Bird) is named for a French plane that crashed over the Atlantic in 1927 during a transatlantic flight attempt. The restaurant's décor pays homage to the pilots, complete with a small-scale replica of the biplane that looks like it's flying off the terrace. Even if you're not a history buff, you'll appreciate the sweeping views of the Eiffel Tower and the excellent service.

Located close to what was once Paris's red-light district, Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood's tawdry past. Conceived by nightlife visionary André Saraiva (the force behind Le Baron), the black lacquered bar, brasserie, and outdoor terrace are as scene-y as you can get in Paris. Whether for a boozy Saturday brunch or dinner and drinks, the best seats in the house are outdoors, in the leafy courtyard dotted with vintage ’50s cafeteria tables. The brasserie is open late, and you can linger on for hours until it's time to hit the bar or a nightclub in nearby Pigalle.

Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. Settle onto a velvet barstool, order a glass of champagne or a dirty martini, chat with the friendly bartenders, and order plates of onion rings and tartare on toast as the evening slips into night.

This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.

Situated on the quay of the Docks en Seine—also home to Paris's fashion institute—Wanderlust is a bit more than just a club/bar/restaurant. Though a small part of the enterprise lives indoors, it primarily resides on the sprawling outdoor terrace which overlooks the Seine. Exposed pipes, neon lights, live music (DJs, generally), and a stylish crowd are all hallmarks of this much-buzzed-about destination.

With few exceptions, almost everything that lines the Crayola-colored shelves here rings in at under a hundred euros, whether it's backpacks, patterned wallets, or unique candles.

Though it’s well located on Rue Saint-Honoré, this is the sort of spot that’s easy to walk right by. Inside it’s dimly lit, cloister-like, and achingly cool, complete with rickety, slightly off-kilter shelves that sag under the weight of Astier de Villatte’s ceramic tableware. Made from black terra-cotta clay and then finished in the brand’s signature milky white, these perfectly imperfect dishes are the hallmark of some of the best-dressed tables we know. You’ll also find the house line of geometric-print, gold-rimmed notebooks (made by the last master printer in Paris) and the gorgeously old-fashioned candle and incense collections, along with a handful of oddities, like glassware cast in the shape of skulls and stout little teapots.

The husband-and-wife team behind revamped cosmetics line Buly added a couple degrees of fantasy when furnishing their flagship shop—modeled after a nineteenth-century apothecary—with Tuscan tiled floors, Italian marble counters, intricately carved wooden cupboards, and prettily painted beams. And then there are the products: alcohol-free scents and modern, paraben-free formulations, beautifully packaged in old-fashioned vials and glass jars. Whether you’re in the market or not, this shop is a treat just to look at.

Large and loftlike, this industrial-feeling store has an ambitious mandate: fair-trade clothing and accessories from little-known and established artisan brands, mixed in with a smattering of vintage furniture, art books, records, and indie zines. If you've got little ones, don't miss the outpost devoted to kids.

If you’re looking for small gifts or plastic-free home goods, you’ll find them at Landline. The boutique is carefully laid out, with tables and cubbies full of kitchen ceramics, simple wooden children’s toys, and anything else you might find at a chic general store. It feels distinctly Californian (and still oh-so-Paris).

A bookshop and antiquarian for over a century, Librairie Alain Brieux specializes in rare scientific and sometimes esoteric titles, though the real allure is its cabinet-of-curiosities vibe. The windows and interior displays are continually refreshed with weird and wonderful assortments of vintage anatomical models, glass eyes, unusual toys, and the like.

It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, profits go to charities in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; natural shampoos and Comme des Garçons perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting the Used Book Café in the basement, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch.

This just might be the best bookstore in the world. It has the vibe of a warren-like country home rather than a straightforward shop. Books are piled haphazardly from floor to ceiling (many of which are in English), there are benches dotted here and there, and it's staffed mostly by college kids who are full of great recommendations. It’s also home to a rich literary history—over the years, Shakespeare and Company has played host to famous American writers like Allen Ginsberg, Ernest Hemingway, William Burroughs, and William Styron. Founder George Whitman (the shop is now run by his daughter, Sylvia) famously opened up the shop’s cozy benches and couches to artists and writers who needed a place to stay. Many of these drifting creatives—or tumbleweeds, as they became known—went on to become important literary figures in their own right.

Fauve is a spa dedicated to hair. The hair on your head, yes—they offer a massage that aims to revitalize the scalp and boost shine. But also eyebrows (their brow treatment focuses on relieving tension around the eyes) and body hair (removal, specifically, by wax and laser).

Located in a quiet, sun-kissed courtyard, Rasa Yoga is wonderfully unintimidating—even if you don't speak a lick of French. It offers a comprehensive calendar of styles and levels, along with a deep roster of spa treatments from all around the world.

Surprisingly, Le Bristol is the only Parisian hotel allowed to perform facial treatments using La Prairie products. Much like the product line itself, the driving force behind the treatment menu is rejuvenation—as evidenced by treatments like the Caviar Lift Facial and the ultrasoothing Platinum Rare Haute Rejuvenation facial. The best part? You can drop off the littles at the Kids Club for the duration of your treatment.

Yoga, Gyrotonic, Reformer Pilates, and Xtend Barre all under one roof make Studio Rituel a popular wellness destination. And the location, a stone’s throw from the Luxembourg Gardens, doesn’t hurt. The Gyrotonic classes, which involve fluid movement and targeted stretches utilizing the seven natural elements of spinal movement, are particularly helpful if you plan to do a lot of walking. As the class ramps up, these stretches are more like a dance, and over time they dramatically increase your flexibility. The studio also offers holistic treatments like massage and reflexology.

Temple’s boxing class takes place in a chic studio with parquet floors and low lighting. But the real magic comes from the instructors, who meet you where you are: Beginners and experienced boxers will both come out of class sweaty and satisfied.

In the Latin Quarter, right between Boulevard Saint-Germain and the Seine, Hôtel Dame des Arts is a contemporary gem in a very old part of town. Guest rooms may not be incredibly spacious—this is Paris, after all—but they make good use of their limited square footage, and large windows keep the space from feeling cramped. That said, it’s worth shelling out for a premium room or a suite, some of which come with balconies or private terraces. At the downstairs restaurant, which has a pretty courtyard garden, chef Othoniel Alvarez Castańeda pulls off Mexican-French-Asian fusion. And the rooftop bar is an especially cool place to hang out for sunset drinks; it’s a rare place in Paris with a 360-degree view, and you should soak it in for as long as possible. The teensy spa has just one treatment room (for massages, exclusively) and a sauna, but the fitness room (also small) is visually stunning enough to carve out time for, even if your schedule’s packed.

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs occupies a middle ground that’s increasingly hard to come by in Paris: It’s well-designed and the service is solid, but it’s not true luxury, and the price point matches. The guest rooms run on the small side, but they are quite pretty, done up in a palette of cream, chestnut, pistachio, and slate blue—vaguely nautical, as are a few other details. The downstairs bar is a highlight: Poppy is inspired by the clandestine energy of speakeasies and opium dens, with good cocktails and better DJ sets. You might take advantage of the small gym and sauna downstairs, too.

This boutique hotel is proof that affordable doesn’t necessarily mean scruffy and outdated. Though you won’t find all the creature comforts here, first-time hotelier Vanessa Scoffier has done wonders decorating with a mostly pastel palette, vintage finds, and an overall DIY/Scandi aesthetic. Added benefits, like the super thoughtful concierge service and fresh flowers, do go a long way.

Taking up half a city block, this is a hotel with history. During WWI, Russians fleeing the revolution stayed here. During WWII, occupying forces took the place over—and over the following years, concentration camp survivors, their families, and at one point, even Charles de Gaulle lived here. James Joyce played piano in the bar, and Antoine de Saint-Éxupery was a regular. Suffice to say, Lutetia has acted as a refuge for people throughout the last century. Designers went heavy on the marble and, on the upper floors, a dark eucalyptus wood. The basement now features an exquisite spa and swimming pool (a rarity in Paris). The brasserie and the bar are beloved by Left Bank residents, with many treating the facilities as extensions of their own homes. On any given night, there is no better seat in Paris than at Bar Josephine.

A hotel inspired by the residences of great nineteenth-century writers and thinkers like Alexandre Dumas—hence the Monte Cristo reference—seems fitting for the Left Bank location. (The neighborhood has long been considered the center of gravity for Parisian intellectuals.) Let's start at the bottom: the pool, surrounded by plants and blue tile, is pretty, intimate, and so necessary after a day spent pounding the cobblestones. And the same goes for the sauna. The guest rooms (go for the boudoir option) are quietly luxurious with rich navy carpets, beautiful frescoes behind the headboards, and the softest white sheets. Touches like tapestries, sumptuous textiles, and painted wallpaper articulate the communal areas and look a lot like the furnishings the Count of Monte Cristo himself might have encountered during his travels. In a city where everyone goes out, staying in for a swim, a steam, and a rum cocktail at the hotel bar is incredibly appealing. The breakfast spread is also worth mentioning. It's served at the bar, and the pastry situation rivals that of the best bakeries in the city.

Above the boutique of artisan tie-maker Cinabre, this hotel consists of only two guest apartments, both beautifully and expertly decorated: upholstery by Pierre Frey, beds by Hästens, linens by Bergan Delorme, tableware by Cristal de Paris, and dressing gowns, slippers, silk scarves, and stationary by Cinabre itself. Plus: in-room massages, excellent room-service breakfast, knowledgeable concierge service, meticulously curated vinyl collections—there’s a vintage turntable in each room—and access to the exclusive and prestigious squash club Club du Jeu de Paume de Paris.

Having “The smallest five-star hotel in Paris” for a tagline is pretty attractive, especially to the guest who prefers an under-the-radar, bespoke experience. With only twenty rooms and one of our favorite, hammam-style subterranean pools hidden beneath the building (for guests only), L’Hotel nails the bohemian vibe of the Left Bank. Guest rooms are what could be described as “intimate”, but the décor is so beautiful that you forget the square footage. With rich brocade wallpaper that looks like patterned velvet, antique furnishings, soft lamps, and supremely comfortable beds, no two rooms are the same. Book into the Oscar Wilde suite (the hotel’s most famous visitor was actually staying on the premises when he died) for the bathroom alone. The yellow and green tiles, emerald marble tub, and mahogany wall panels make a nightly bath mandatory, while the antique writing desk and private terrace ooze old-world allure.

If you’d like to experience classic Parisian bistro food—escargot, duck à l’orange, cordon bleu, foie gras, eggs mayonnaise, frog legs, and more—dodge the tourist traps near the Eiffel Tower and aim straight for Paul Chêne. The food here is excellent and the service is personal and warm. (Often, the owner Harold Chêne will serve you himself.) Don’t skip the orange cognac liqueur, which they make in house based on an old family recipe. The restaurant only has a handful of tables, and they always book out; make reservations by phone and well in advance.

Travelers missing their sushi fix usually slink over to Blueberry on night three in Paris, when the capacity to consume another plate of steak-frites is officially no more. Purists be warned: The maki are on the innovative side, imbued with tropical, citrusy flavors like mango and yuzu (trust us: These rolls are next-level good). The atmosphere is more disco than serene. Whitewashed stone walls are illuminated electric blue and neon pink, while dozens of low-hanging lamps dispel any notions of a romantic dinner. Come at lunch for value, but dinnertime is when the ambiance reaches a celebratory fever pitch, when the lighting is most dramatic. Somehow, those perfect, umami-rich mouthfuls just taste better after dark.

Paris is not a brunch place, which means that this cheery, wood-beam lined spot is aggressively slammed on weekends. Go during the week: While they offer every conceivable iteration of egg dish, we like the Coco Meurette best. It features poached eggs submerged in a dreamy red wine and mushroom sauce.

In a city filled with good, classic restaurants, it's hard to narrow it down to a few favorites, but Le Fontaine de Mars is one of those old-world bistros that constantly draws you back in. Once inside, no one would blame you for thinking that nothing has changed in a hundred years—and maybe it hasn't: Pink tablecloths, mirrored walls, and retro floor tiles abound. Keep your order to the tried-and-true classics, good steak-frites or coq au vin with a large glass of red is the way to go here.

This café looks straight out of central casting: The large main room, complete with mirrored walls and dotted with paintings, is almost always packed. Despite the area's popularity with tourists, La Palette still feels undiscovered, as it’s predominantly peopled by locals.

It’s casual and cozy here, which is the perfect backdrop for the rural French food on offer. We come for the delicious roast chicken on Sundays; since most restaurants are closed, it can get quite busy, but in a low-key convivial way. Ask for a table by the window overlooking the Seine.

The only thing that outshines Les Cocottes’ brilliant use of glass jars and Staub cast-iron cocottes is the menu itself. The restaurant offers a robust offering of salads, soups, and mains that satisfy without breaking the bank. Consider making a reservation because there’s almost always a wait—which isn’t bad, as it’s conveniently located near the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower.

In Paris, charming little eateries are a dime a dozen, but this bistro is a true standout. Located just steps from the Musée d’Orsay on the left bank, it serves reasonably priced French fare (duck breast, eggplant, tarte tatin), excellent wine, all against a backdrop of a lipstick-red banquette and a caricature wall. This is a neighborhood spot that gets pretty packed with locals in the evenings, so don’t expect to run into too many tourists.

Little Miss Geisha is inspired by Kyoto’s machiyas—traditional wooden townhouses—and while you can get a full lunch, dinner, or Sunday brunch here, we’d argue it’s best for an unhurried afternoon tea. The menu might be simpler than at proper mealtime, but the vibe is more leisurely, which makes up for the restaurant’s slow service. And you can spill out into the Jardin du Luxembourg for a stroll when you’re done.

Classic and inventive dishes get the two Michelin star treatment at the hands of Landes-born and fourth generation chef Hélène Darroze. With additional restaurants in London and Marrakesh, the menu has a global touch with deeply local roots: Darroze uses area providers, and bases her dishes on what’s seasonally appropriate. Her quiet and restrained approach can be felt in the room’s decor as well, which is hushed and elegant.

Ojii pulls off unforgettable Japanese fine dining in a slinky, ‘70s-inspired boîte. They do white-tablecloth in a sexy way, and it’s great for date night: Spend the night eating caviar tuna nigiri and sipping sake cocktails made with sobacha, yuzu, or plum wine.

Basque fine dining restaurant Sugaar is one of the buzziest reservations in Paris, and the candlelit space is equally suited for intimate date nights or fancy gatherings with friends. Start with a round of martinis and fatty tuna pinxos before diving into white asparagus, charcoal-cooked fish, and sheep’s cheese tarts.

Freddy’s is in the top five most-visited bar à vins of our Paris-resident friends. The rustic stone walls, pretty chevron floors, artfully arranged bundles of wildflowers in old glass bottles, the museum-quality ceramics you eat off, the casual stools you perch on—it’s intoxicating and feels as Paris as Paris can be. To guarantee a seat, come with one other person, or better yet, come alone with your thoughts for company and the surrounding crowd for entertainment. The selection by the glass is seriously impressive (it’s no surprise the owner, Juan, is also the proprietor of wine shop extraordinaire La Dernière Goutte, around the corner) and the small bites are just what you want to nibble on with a glass of red.

Literally packed to the rafters with cheese, this is one of those tiny little spots you'll smell before you see. Owner Nicole Barthélemy and her team of cheese mongers will always let you sample before you buy—though the recommendations tend to be so spot-on, you arguably won't have to test many. For whatever reason, they don't tolerate photos in the shop—should you whip out your camera, you'll get scolded.

This cozy little Spanish shop and restaurant serves up great tapas and solid selection of Spanish wine, but their real specialty is the store’s namesake charcuterie. Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, which comes from acorn-finished hogs, is the crème de la crème of cured meats. Their gift baskets, with include a few different varieties, make great gifts for fellow foodies.

When you step into this specialty tea boutique, the first thing you notice is how good it smells. Follow your nose: Sniff whole-flower teas in stone goblets, open the bulk jars and take a whiff, and pull out the pretty drawers in the wall, which hold teas with names like jardins suspendus (“hanging gardens”). You can’t sample the teas on site, but the shopkeeper will help you pick something to take home.

This lablike Left Bank coffee house is owned by two pals (one Australian, one French)—and it offers so much more than standard espresso. Like so many Parisian cafés, this one has an indoor/outdoor seating situation making it a people-watching paradise. But you can actually get some work done, too—the interior is soothing, the Wi-Fi is free, and tables are roomy enough to spread out. You can also grab a quick breakfast or soup-and-salad lunch.

Stalks of bamboo dangle from the ceiling like hundreds of wind-chimes at this Saint-Germain-des-Prés spot, which is the first outpost outside of Japan for the historic, 19th-century teahouse, Jugetsedo. Upstairs, you can sample any number of green tees, from earthy Sencha, to nutty Genmaicha, to creamy Macha. In the cellar-like basement, you can participate in a full, uber-traditional tea service.

Styled to look like a 1950s classroom, Georges Marques’s shop offers hundreds of candies sourced from all over France. It’s kind of an amazing way to take a geography lesson, really, particularly because Georges is happy to lead willing students on a tour of the country’s various candy-producing zones. Everything—from the candied fruits to pastilles to calissons to chocolate—is arranged in old-fashioned apothecary jars.

Complete with cobblestone streets, a bubbling fountain, stands full of fresh flowers, and heaps of fresh bread, cheese, and charcuterie, Marché Monge is pretty much the quintessential Parisian market. Jardin des Plantes is only a few blocks away, so it's a great pit stop before an afternoon of picnicking.

This mini-chainlet is now five Paris locations strong (with an outpost in London), which makes a lot of sense: The bread really is distinguishably excellent, which in a place like Paris, says a lot. Though the sourdough loaves fly off the shelves, we love their nut breads—along with the fact that you can purchase by the half or quarter loaf if you can't take down the entire thing.

Aurélie Bidermann is cool, a fact that's readily apparent in the design of her bright, turquoise-tile-accented shop. You'll find her entire line—including plenty of the braided cord bracelets for which she's now famous—plus horn necklaces, painted enamel earrings shaped like leaves, and tasseled pendants.

goodJo’s collection of vintage luxury fashion is eclectic in the best way (you might find beautifully constructed Saint Laurent blazers in colorful prints and silk Escada blouses with exquisite details). If you don’t see what you’re looking for, ask; their collection is expansive and only so much fits in the store at a time.

Inconceivable as it may sound, we like Hermès’ Left Bank outpost even more than the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré original. Occupying a 1935 Art Deco landmark, which at one time was a swimming pool (the mosaic tile floor remains), this location is a complete brand departure. Archways made from undulating latticed wood reach toward the skylights, and the displays are spare. Beyond the usual suspects of scarves, ties, watches, and saddlery, the space includes an in-house café as well.

Isabel Marant has done a pretty amazing job of building a slavishly devoted fan base: It's partly because her clothes used to be nearly impossible to find unless you bought a ticket to Paris, and partly because she nails a bohemian-meets-modern aesthetic that always just works.

Invariably, when you see an Isabel Marant, you'll see an outpost of Jerome Dreyfuss. Not only is there a subtly shared aesthetic, but Jerome and Isabel are married. For the most part, the bags here are perfectly slouchy, and the shoes are kind of exactly what you want for a low-key weekend in the city.

From cofounder Jeanne Signoles comes this must-have bag brand—done in canvas, and with a utilitarian, slightly nautical aesthetic. It’s hard not to fall for the simplicity of the concept: Choose the color for the bag, trims, and handles and add your initials in Futura. Stop by the sleek space to specify your bag, suitcase, tote, or pencil case.

Nothing Martin Margiela turns out is particularly basic, but thanks to a muted palette and exquisite tailoring, everything is supremely wearable. The Belgian designer’s boots are always classic (if cerebral), and his jewelry is pretty cool, too. MM6, Maison Martin Margiela’s more reasonably priced line, is located in Galeries Lafayette.

Lace-trimmed shirts, pointelle peasant blouses, and delicate floral prints are signature tricks of the eponymous line here. They do it really well.

Wander into antique dealer Michele Aragon’s eponymous shop, and you might walk out with a pair of Provencal bubbled-glass cups, a full set of handmade tableware, or a sofa fashioned from kilim rugs.

Started by three brothers (whose family made its fortune from French brand, Comptoir des Cotonniers), this brand splashed out across Paris aggressively and loudly. Their ad campaigns—of stylish couples who both look, and dress alike—are a good reflection of the subtly tough and subtly unisex wares here. Leather bomber jackets, graphic t-shirts, and streamlined sweaters are all part of the mix.

The Foundation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, situated in a Jean Nouvel-designed glass building and fronted by a soaring garden wall, houses an important—and growing—contemporary art collection. Don’t miss their Nomadic Nights, when the Foundation invites contemporary artists to host evenings of concerts, screenings, lectures, and performances.

There’s only one real reason to visit Paris’s only skyscraper: The view from the top, which is arguably better than the view from the Eiffel Tower. (From Montparnasse, you can actually see the Eiffel Tower—and you don’t see Montparnasse.)

If you’re lucky enough to land an in-person appointment with face massage specialist Jeanne Casimir, you’ll leave with visibly lifted and invigorated skin. Casimir takes up residency at the Bon Marché for a week at a time, and she makes house calls. If you can’t meet her IRL, enroll in her self-massage class, which takes place online.