The Peninsula

Built in 1928, this opulent, eight-story hotel—just steps from the Champs Elysée—is pretty much the gold-standard for city-based, luxury hotels. It’s never a bargain, but if your budget can support the splurge, there’s really no better place to stay. Besides the lavishly-appointed rooms, the service is superb, the restaurant boasts three Michelin-stars, and the location is hard to beat.

This iconic palace, right on the Place de la Concorde, was commissioned by Louis XV in the 18th century and has served as a government office, a private home (to several French aristocrats, including Marie Antoinette), and finally a hotel in the early 1900s. Rosewood took over in 2013, and a stay here comes with all the bells and whistles the brand is known for: luxurious amenities, great restaurants, and phenomenal service. Every room has a butler who can help you with tasks both big and small: dinner reservations, or a piping-hot bath, drawn right on time for when you get home.

This elegantly restored hotel is a mere five minutes from Paris’s center of gravity, the Champs-Élysées, which really means it’s five minutes from everything. The first thing to note is that there is an actual hammam in the basement. After a long day of sightseeing, a few laps in the pool followed by a steam is a healing balm for exhausted feet and sore muscles. Aesthetically, the Art Deco influence is quietly done and hidden in the details, like the lamps, the restrained use of marble (and the not-so-restrained use of stripes to beautiful results), pretty velvet upholstery, even the occasional in-room porthole. Unbeatable location aside, the attentive staff and excellent service catapult this new hotel to the top of the short list of excellent places to stay. The adorably small hotel bar and the sexy dining room make leaving that much harder.

Over the years, we’ve built a lot of wonderful memories here, in part because this is the sort of unpretentious and unfussy hotel that focuses on comfort rather than flash. While it’s fronted by an old-world, Beaux Arts exterior, the rooms are chic and modern.

Being that it’s a Mandarin Oriental, you can be assured that this is one of Paris’ finest hotel options. A lush inner courtyard, Thierry Marx restaurants, and sleek, Asian-inspired rooms that are blessedly spacious for Paris are givens, but the Diptyque products and Frette robes make any stay even better. Plus, there’s a spa, pool, and sizable gym.

When Ritz Paris opened in 2016 after four years of renovations—the first closure in the hotel’s storied history—loyalists appreciated that the designers kept the hotel’s charming, traditional style firmly intact (if a bit spruced up), down to the grand window treatments, gilded frames, and copious chandeliers. As ever, the rooms are exceptionally luxurious: Each is outfitted with a marble bathroom, generous windows, and famously soft sheets, with many boasting antique furnishings. The hotel is also home to three restaurants, two of which now have retractable glass ceilings on their patios: L’Espadon, for a traditional, white-tablecloth French dining experience, including breakfast and lunch; Bar Vendôme, a moody brasserie with red velvet booths; and the Ritz Bar, a more casual spot with shared plates and an Art Deco design palette. The hotel is home to a stunning fitness center—also available to private club members—where guests can swim laps in a gorgeous tiled pool or sign up for a day of pampering in the Chanel spa. But we’re probably most excited about the reopening of Bar Hemingway, the old author’s historic haunt that’s now famous for some of the world’s best cocktails.

Tucked away in the quiet and leafy 16th near the Champs-Élysées, the Saint James, located in a century-old château, offers a jolt of luxury with its palatial interior, glorious garden, and Michelin-starred restaurant. With its patterned carpets and explosions of color—both in the lobby and in each individually decorated room—it can feel a bit like a country retreat on steroids. This is a Relais & Châteaux property, so expect all the traditional bells and whistles.

Paris is one of those special cities that enthusiastically clings on to the more traditional, elegant remnants of the past—Angelina is an embodiment of this policy. A classic tearoom that first opened in 1903, the over-the-top Belle Epoque interiors create the ambiance for a truly decadent hour (or two) of sweet indulgence. The sculptural cakes and classic patisserie that line the glass cases are the perfect accompaniment to the main event: Angelina's world-renowned hot chocolate. We recommend the Old Style Hot Chocolate, made from a blend of cocoa beans whipped into hot milk and cream for the smoothest, slightly sweet, slightly bitter cup. Angelina also serves up well-executed classic French dishes like croque-madame and quiche Lorraine, but really it's the chocolate—and the people-watching—that makes this Paris institution a favorite with locals and tourists alike.

Alain Ducasse’s Aux Lyonnais is one of those traditional French dining experiences that manages to deftly skirt stuffiness. The old-world façade still has the original sign from the restaurant’s 1914 debút, and the belle époque interior (mirrored walls, intricate tile floors, and an original wooden staircase) feels straight out of central casting. The menu changes seasonally, but you can expect delicious fare reminiscent of a classic bistro in Lyon.

Tucked away in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this eternally cool brasserie mixes classic French and Asian-inspired dishes, like black truffle croque-monsieur, sea bream carpaccio, grilled filet, and the juiciest cheeseburger ever. Old leather cushion banquettes and marble countertops contrast with chic black-floral wallpaper; it’s both cozy and romantic.

This bustling bistro is particularly great for late dinners and brunch: The menu is nice and succinct, offering the classics you want after a few glasses of wine. You’ll find steak au cheval, steak tartare, a selection of burgers, and a sampling of salads, plus a small wine list mostly offered by the carafe. This is one of the few places open on Sunday.

This classic Parisian Art Deco café on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain has played host to everyone from Sartre to Picasso. They came for coffee and people-watching, and so should you: When the weather’s nice, find a spot on the outdoor patio and get a big café crème. (Or swing by just to see the place: The food's just okay, and the crowd inside made up of tourists exclusively, but the institution itself is pretty iconic.)

Chez George is hyper traditional, a little overpriced, and exactly the kind of place where one wants to eat dinner in Paris. A classic bistro in every sense, down to the mirrored walls and too-small tables. As can be expected, steak frites and boeuf bourguignon is the way to go. Unlike some of the other old-world bistros in Paris, the food here is legitimately very good and the atmosphere delivers every time.

Classic French bistros like Chez Julien are actually getting a little harder to find. Just steps from the Seine, it has an outdoor terrace where you can take in the city views. The most perfect steak frites, crème brûlée, and other traditional dishes are served on logo-emblazoned plates and accompanied by a great wine list. It’s a little on the pricey side but the formal interior (which was rvamped by the Costes brothers) and old-school service make it a good choice to toast a special occasion.

Unpretentious and laid-back, this is the sort of restaurant that’s the perfect reprieve after a few days of big, loud brasseries. The food is simple but well-prepared and nicely affordable, too.

Chez Dumonet has been serving up classic bistro fare for decades, in a dining room that dates back over a century (to 1880 to be exact). Its Belle Epoque vibe is totally charming, made even better by the clientele: You can be assured that everyone in the dining room is likely a grandparent a few times over. Keep in mind that Chez Dumonet offers many half orders, which is key if you’re not staying in a spot that can accommodate leftovers (portions tend to be generous).

After a week in Paris, when it’s time to lay off the butter and goose fat, we head here. It’s not the sort of restaurant that’s going to change your life, but their seaweed salad and sashimi is solidly decent. And with two sleek and spacious floors, there’s room enough for everyone. At night, when the lights get dimmer and the music louder, it can get a bit scene-y.

La Closerie is in the same league as historic cafés like Les Deux Magots and La Palette. And while some might say this Montparnasse standby is past its prime, many insist it’s still very much happening—after all, Hemingway (there’s a handy sign indicating his preferred spot at the bar), Picasso, and Beckett used to hang out here all the time. We recommend springing for a full dinner in the formal main hall. But the brasserie-slash-piano-bar is great for a drink and to get a feel of the place without spending a fortune.

La Laiterie (translation: the dairy, which is what this tiny spot used to be), is located in a section of the Left Bank that’s particularly popular with tourists—the Musée Rodin and Musée d’Orsay are both within walking distance. Though the staff here will happily explain the dishes (leek soup, poached eggs, steak with new potatoes) in near-perfect english to out-of-towners, a good portion of the patrons are locals, which really speaks volumes for the pared-down, comfort-food-centric menu.

Power lunchers from the publishing and political worlds tend to pack out the black booths at this discreet, hard-to-find spot (it’s pricey, so an expense account helps). They come for the fresh seafood, and the fact that 21 feels more like a private club than a restaurant.

Bistrot Paul Bert is what any French restaurant ought to be: It features old-school, understated décor; simple but solid food at reasonable prices (including an excellent entrecôte); and brusque waiters. Don’t skip dessert, particularly the not-too-sweet tarte tatin.

Fresh and wonderful seafood—served in a dining room that feels like the captain's dining room in a ship—justifies the haul to this slightly out of the way institution. The preparations here are blessedly simple and unflashy, which further underlines the consistently excellent quality of their catch.

This historic restaurant—it’s the oldest in Paris, actually—has taken up the same spot in the Palais-Royal since 1784. While it’s been thoroughly modernized, the majority of beautiful neoclassical embellishments are intact, and the tables are still marked with the names of literary legends (Victor Hugo, John Paul-Sartre, Voltaire) who frequented the spot way back when. The restaurant has lost all three of its Michelin stars, and chef Guy Martin pivoted to a more bistro-style menu, but we've heard it's still stellar.

The décor of La Petit Lutetia is that of a classic Paris bistro, with charming mirrored walls, monogrammed dishes, haphazard stacks of newspapers, and too-small tables. While the food is certainly good, you’re here for the people-watching, an endless parade of beautifully outfitted Parisians ducking out for cigarettes between courses and drinking seemingly endless glasses of red wine like water.

Café culture is one of the many institutions that make Paris such a pleasure to visit. An hour spent sitting outside with a café au lait and a croissant watching the Parisians pass by is time well spent. Les Deux Magots in the heart of Saint-Germain has been one of the preferred literary and creative spots forever, with regulars including Picasso and Hemingway. The menu touches the greatest hits; the croque-madame is especially good, but honestly, a coffee or—hell, you’re on vacation—a glass of champagne outside under the canopy is the way to go.

It’s admittedly scene-y, but the tiny Le Stresa is also undeniably fun: Red velvet banquettes, a sea of ornate mirrors, and piles of pasta make it all even better. Like many restaurants in Paris, it’s closed on the weekends.

Situated right on the river, you can opt to take a seat in the front café for lighter fare (coffees, drinks, and classic sandwiches), or in the back, where they serve full meals. We love the grapefruit and avocado salad, but we particularly love the excellent people watching at lunch.

While this isn’t our first stop when we descend on Paris—and arguably should be skipped if you have limited time in the city—this Jean-Georges, Asian-inspired French restaurant is reliably good. And the Christian Liagre-designed space is elegant, without ever compromising comfort.

Parisians swear Pierre Hermé's macarons are the best in town, and we're inclined to agree. After all, the pastry wunderkind (he began his career as an apprentice to Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, before becoming the pastry chef of Fauchon when he was only 24) is known for infusing his ganaches with interesting combinations, like his famous Ispahan, which blends rose, lychee, and raspberry. The chocolates and croissants shouldn't be missed either.

There's a certain sexiness to hotel restaurants, and Michelin-starred Pur' at the Park Hyatt oozes it. Chef Jean-François Rouquette has put together a menu of flawless interpretations of classic French dishes, served in the refined, many-columned dining room. For a blow-out, completely seasonal meal in Paris, Pur' delivers—drink your wine at the table and save a post-dinner digestif for the elegant Park Hyatt bar.

Tucked away down a flight of stairs, this cave-like find offers an excellent omakase experience with two menus to choose from. They specialize in kushiagué, which basically means that they specialize in delicious ingredients grilled on sticks, each one prepared differently.

Still sporting its original décor from 1903, the horseshoe-shaped bar beckons for a coffee, a kir (white wine and crème de cassis), or a quick meal. While there's a full restaurant in the back, it lacks the prime people-watching you'll get up front.

This moody, leather-accented bar is famous for being an old haunt of so many Paris creatives—in addition to Hemingway himself, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Cole Porter, and Gary Cooper were all regulars. Legend has it that Marcel Proust ordered a cold beer from here on his deathbed. Colin Peter Field, who ran Bar Hemingway for decades and arguably made it the destination that it is, is no longer there. However, his deputy, Anne-Sophie Prestail, took over in 2023 and has continued the tradition of deliciously stiff drinks and rose garnishes.

Opulent to the max, Le Bar at the George V is one of our favorite places to tuck into a martini: It’s pricey, but it has atmosphere in spades, along with a well-heeled crowd. It's one of these places that feel like time just stops...or maybe it's just the wine.

If you have the time for a bespoke, engraved stationery order, you can’t do much better than Benneton. While it’s helmed by a woman who can be a bit gruff (it’s been in the family since 1880), the gorgeous wares make the whole experience worthwhile. They also offer really pretty and simple leather goods, like pocket books and card cases.

Beautifully turned out bras in the finest satins and lace are mainstays at this little red-and-gold boutique, which has been focused on corsetry since the end of the 19th century. It’s all deeply refined and restrained, which makes the pieces all the sexier. They also make made-to-measure custom lingerie, which just might be the ultimate luxury.

Like many of its fashion-centric brethren, Céline launched in the '40s, though with a singular focus on bespoke leather shoes for children. And then it all changed: Céline branched into womenswear in the ’60s, rose to prominence under Michael Kors in the '90s, and is now an established staple, loved for its streamlined, modern shapes.

Coco Chanel opened her first boutique in the 1st, back in 1910, and it’s still the best place to see the full expression of the brand. Spanning three lushly-appointed, black and white floors, the cap-toed ballet flats, quilted bags, and tweedy jackets are all connected by a sweeping central staircase. If you can’t make it to the flagship, there are many more locations across Paris, plus ample representation in Paris’s three main department stores.

Established in 1838 by Joseph-Christophe Charvet—the son of the man responsible for Napoleon’s wardrobe—this bespoke shirtmaker has been outfitting royalty ever since. Charvet pioneered the concept of custom tailoring (and the shirt collar as we know it today). To this day, they offer exquisite shirting, as well as men’s and women’s pajamas, ties, and scarves.

Launched by Egyptian-born Gaby Aghion in the ’50s, Chloé skipped the formality of haute couture in favor of going straight to off-the-rack ready-to wear, a new concept at the time. Perennially feminine (a hallmark the brand has never deviated from), the brand became big under the watchful eye of Karl Lagerfeld in the ’60s and ’70s.

Sure, you’ll find Christian Louboutin’s full range of red-soled stilettos and studded loafers here, but you’ll also find unparalleled customer service. They maintain a strict 1:1 ratio of salespeople to clients, and while this might seem like it would result in helicopter-like hovering, it doesn’t. Instead, they swoop in only when you have a question or need a size. There are numerous locations across Paris, along with in-department store options.

With stints at Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Muegler, and Christian LaCroix under Christophe Lemaire’s belt, launching his own label in 1991 wasn’t a particularly big feat—but what he’s continued to achieve in the intervening years certainly impresses. Lemaire oversaw the rejuvenation of Lacoste in 2000, before moving on to Hermès women in 2010. Meanwhile, he’s persevered with his own collection, which focuses on crisp and classic sportswear in subtly architectural shapes.

In 1634, grocer and wax merchant Claude Trudon opened a store on Rue St. Honoré—and Trudon has been lighting the city’s palaces and homes ever since. Thanks to their superlative wax and rigorous candle-making process, the scented pillars burn for hours—without ever sputtering or smoking. They’re not cheap—after all, as company lore would have it, Napoleon’s only gift to his newborn son was a Trudon candle encrusted with three pieces of gold—but they are exquisite. The Paris boutique, complete with a rainbow wall of tapers, busts cast in wax, and the full expression of fragrances, shouldn’t be missed.

This is one of those French institutions that's impossible to miss: You can pretty much buy everything here, from a Chanel bag to truffles. It’s great for tourists in particular, since they can streamline the VAT process. Don’t miss the roof, which offers pretty epic views of Paris.

Helmed by Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy is one of the French fashion houses that manages to straddle multiple aesthetics without any brand confusion. Floor-skimming, gorgeously draped gowns blend seamlessly with crystal-studded tanks and white linen pants We like the accessories best, though, like engraved silver chains and boxy architectural totes.

While Goyard was established as a trunkmaker and packer in 1792, it was a relative secret until about a decade ago, when the world at large decided that they couldn’t live without Goyard’s signature thin-strapped, hand-painted canvas totes. Available in a rainbow of colors, the luggage here literally lasts forever: It’s all monogrammable, and you can add stripes and symbols as well. While it’s available at a few Paris addresses, the flagship has been in its Rue Saint-Honoré home since 1834, making it an easy favorite.

While there are Eric Bompard stores scattered across Paris, we like the one on Rue François best. The cashmere knits come in an astounding range of colors, styles, and sizes, and they're well-priced.

Inconceivable as it may sound, we like Hermès’ Left Bank outpost even more than the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré original. Occupying a 1935 Art Deco landmark, which at one time was a swimming pool (the mosaic tile floor remains), this location is a complete brand departure. Archways made from undulating latticed wood reach toward the skylights, and the displays are spare. Beyond the usual suspects of scarves, ties, watches, and saddlery, the space hosts an in-house florist, a bookshop, and a café as well. There is also two other locations, the original in the 1st and another in the 6th.

Founded in the late 19th-century, Jeanne Lanvin’s fashion house is one of the world’s longest-lasting, thanks to a recent jolt back into the mainstream by designer Alber Elbaz. The perfumes have always been iconic, as are the columnar dresses in muted pastel tones (and now, of course, the elastic edged ballet flats).

The Samaritaine department store began as a tiny boutique in 1870 on Rue de Pont-Neuf. It was acquired by luxury behemoth LVMH in 2001 and after a lengthy restoration, the seven-floor Art Nouveau landmark reopened in 2021. There's an expansive glass ceiling, wraparound peacock frescoes by Francis Jourdain (his father, Frantz Jourdain, was the original architect), enameled lava panels on the façade, and swirling gray wrought iron staircases with gold leaf details...all punctuating next-level shopping. That includes incredible fashion and jewelry, yes, as well as art at Gallery Perrotin, chic souvenirs at LouLou, and caviar sandwiches and customizable bottles of Ruinart from “street" vendors sprinkled throughout the space. The incredible beauty department has a great spa, and the top floor restaurant and bar, Voyage, is fantastic. There’s also a separate entrance to get to the Cheval Blanc hotel. The star secret is the L’Appartement salon, where you can book private styling and shopping appointments.

Though it's often (mistakenly) credited as being the first department store, there's no doubt that Le Bon Marché's founders, Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut, were pioneers, particularly in a culture that so adamantly prizes specialty stores. Launched in 1838 as an extension of the Boucicaut's single market stall, it became a fixed-price department store in 1850 (before that, you would barter), moving into its sweeping, Art Deco home in 1867. While it's been expanded several times since (and now belongs to LVMH), it's still inarguably one of the most beautiful, large-scale shops in existence. Whether you're looking for Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Maje, or Iro, it's likely here: Along with lingerie, kids clothing, furniture, household essentials, and shoes and bags. The food hall, La Grande Épicerie, is pretty insane, offering a rich array of specialty products, from Fauchon macarons to Baltic smoked fish. Many visitors concentrate their buying power here in order to hit the spending level required for VAT.

At age 13, Louis Vuitton Malletier left the rural town of Anchay and made his way, by foot, to Paris, finding work and food along the way (it took him three years). After apprenticing with a box maker and packer, Vuitton managed to land the job of packer and box maker to the Empress of France, and the rest is history. In 1858, Vuitton introduced a rectangular trunk made from lightweight canvas, which is more durable and lighter than leather, revolutionizing the art of packing.

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

You could spend an hour browsing through this stationary shop’s selection of handmade paper, calligraphy pens, stamps, boxes, antique cards, and sealing wax. We can’t imagine visiting without finding something you just can’t leave without.

If diagnostic tests are your bag, you'll love Nose's recommendation technology, which uses your perfume history to predict what fragrances and home scents you'll like best. While you can do the test online—and shop an encyclopedia of brands right there—an in-store consultation is inarguably more fun, as you can vet the recommendations in person. If nothing from Miller Harris, Acqua di Parma, Penhaligon's, et al. fits the bill, Nose will whip up a custom scent.

Constructed as a home for Cardinal Richelieu in the 17th century, the Palais Royal has had a colorful, and multi-varied past, housing a handful of royals over the centuries, and taking its turn as the centerpiece of Paris’ social scene. It turned into a shopping complex in 1784, and hosted about 150 places of business, from tea shops to book stores to hair salons and boutiques. Not much has changed in the intervening years: Now, labels like Rick Owens, Acne, and Serge Lutens have taken refuge in this gorgeous arcade, which overlooks stunning gardens. If your budget allows, tuck into a very special dinner at the classic Le Grand Véfour on the northwest corner of the building.

Like its department store brethren, Printemps has been around for centuries. But, it was the first to install elevators (1870’s) and electric lighting (1888). In fact, patrons could see the power plant that made the magic happen behind glass. These days, Printemps is still progressive. There’s an emphasis on luxury here, with shop-in-shops for Chanel, Stella McCartney, and Kenzo.

Rose Repetto’s now-iconic brand is as known for their colorful ballet flats as they are for the shoes that outfit the world’s prima ballerinas. After a revitalization in 2000 and a string of high-profile collaborations with brands like Comme des Garçons, Balenciaga, and Yohji Yamamoto, you can find Repetto flats everywhere (in a trademark, 64-pack of colors), though a visit to the Opera flagship is still really worthwhile.

Photographer, creative director, filmmaker, makeup artist, parfumier—Serge Lutens is one of those rare souls who seems to make what he wants to make. He got his start with Vogue, before moving on to launch beauty for Christian Dior, and then Shiseido. His photographs have been exhibited at the Guggenheim, his short films have premiered at Cannes, and he created an “olfactory maze” in his hometown of Lilles of scents of his childhood. At his namesake shop in the Palais Royal, you’ll find his gorgeous perfumes, as well as his full makeup range.

Located on the Western edge of Paris, which requires a brief train trip or drive, Louis XIV's over-the-top pleasure palace is so ridiculously ornate that you'll want to get dressed up for the occasion, if only because every surface is reflective, from the gilded mirrors to the glittery chandeliers. The gardens are just as impressive as the palace, and, in the summer, offer train rides, rowing, and biking. Don’t miss the Petit Trianon, which were Marie Antoinette’s private quarters.

Erected by Catherine de Medici in 1564 as part of the Tuileries Palace, this public garden has a textured past (it was the hunting grounds of Louix XIII). Now, it's an excellent place to take a long-ish walk, alongside sculptures from Auguste Rodin, Henry Moore, and even Roy Lichtenstein. It's also home to the Jeu de Paume and its collection of contemporary art, along with the Musée de l’Orangerie, which famously houses Monet's Water Lillies.

One of the prettiest and most popular parks in Paris still feels fairly local. Less traversed by tourists than the Tuileries and with more to do, the Jardin du Luxembourg is where you’ll catch Parisians soaking up the sun in front of the palace, playing chess at public tables, hitting balls on the tennis courts, and challenging one another to lively games of pétanque. And this park really shines when it comes to occupying little kids: Children can sail model boats in the fountains, watch shows at the puppet theatre, or ride donkeys on the vintage carousel. The park sits on the border of the Latin quarter and Saint-Germain—both worth a walk through, but if you have to pick, you should prioritize the latter.

When a handful of city cemeteries were closed in the 18th and 19th centuries because they were overflowing and posed a threat to public health, the bodies of more than six million Parisians were relocated to a former quarry below the city. What's even gnarlier is that bones and skulls were used to create its walls. You can tour the labrynth-like ossuary—and theoretically visit the remains of notables like Rabelais and Robespierre—but this is not for the claustrophic, and probably not for kids.

You know the Musée de l’Orangerie because of its collection of massive Monet water lilies in stark-white, oval-shaped rooms. They’re definitely worth sitting in front of for 10, 20, 30 minutes. But after that, venture downstairs: The place is filled with Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings and is quietly one of the best museums in Paris.

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, occupying the northwest wing of the Louvre, houses a massive collection of furniture, tapestries, ceramics, glassware, sculptures, paintings, and fashion dating from the 13th century to the present. If you’re into history and interior design, you’ll love it. But people really flock here for the temporary exhibitions, which often feature archival collections from iconic fashion houses like Dior, Dries Van Noten, and Iris van Herpen.

Sited in the former Gare d'Orsay, a soaring, glass-ceilinged Beaux-Arts railway station built in the late 19th-century, the permanent collection here spans from neoclassicism to art nouveau. The big draw, though, is the museum's deep collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art, which includes works by Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Seurat, and more.

In its original 12th-century incarnation, the Louvre was a fortress (you can still see remnants of this down in the crypt). It morphed over the years into a larger and larger palace until Louis XIV decamped to Versailles and left it to house the royal collection (which already included Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa). It didn’t assume its museum status until after the French Revolution, at which point its acquisition pace quickened intensively. The museum has almost 400,000 pieces, of which about 35,000 are on display at any given time. While the crowds queue up around I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid, you can buy advance tickets online. Though it’s theoretically possible to marathon your way through the museum in one swoop, we strongly recommend scattering a few short(er) visits across the length of your stay. If you’re traveling with kids, THATMuse organizes themed treasure hunts through the museum.

Auguste Rodin donated his complete collection—including the pieces for which he's most famous like The Thinker and The Gates of Hell—to France so long as they promised to transform the very stately Hôtel Biron, which was his workshop from 1908 on, into a museum. There are thousands of his sculptures on-site, in both the museum's halls and scattered throughout the surrounding gardens, along with highlights from his personal art collection (Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, and Camille Claudel—who was his mistress, his student, and a great sculptor in her own right).

Though it's arguably most famous for being the backdrop to Gaston Leroux's The Phantom of the Opera, its real acclaim comes from the fact that it's a stunningly opulent Second Empire masterpiece. While in its first life it was home to the Paris Opera, it now hosts the Ballet. It's absolutely worth making a night of it if only to see the Grand Foyer.

Modeled after the Pantheon in Rome, this giant mausoleum houses the remains of some of Paris's most famous citizens: Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Jean Monnet, Marie and Pierre Curie, Emile Zola, and as of 2002, Alexandre Dumas. And it was under the central dome that Léon Foucault constructed his pendulum to demonstrate the rotation of the earth (the original now lives in the Musée des Arts et Métiers). In 2007, Jacques Chirac dedicated a plaque in The Pantheon to the thousands of French citizens who harbored Jews during the German occupation, protecting them from concentration camp internment.

Paris's largest (and most historic) cemetery plays home to pretty much everyone you'd ever want to commune with after death: Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Georges-Pierre Seurat, Gertrude Stein, and Édith Piaf all rest here—plots are still available, but the waiting list is long.

It's rare to find a museum where you can see such a wide breadth of a single artist's work, but in this Marais manse (which dates back to the 1600s), you can see pieces from every period of Picasso's life. In addition, it also houses Picasso's personal art collection, which includes pieces from Cézanne, Rousseau, and Degas, as well as significant African art.

Located at the summit of the butte Montmartre—the highest point in the city—a 234-step climb affords spectacular, panoramic views of Paris.

Offered in a traditional hammam setting that will lull you to sleep, the Thai-style massages here are the best in the city. The private rooms come complete with showers, and a candle-lit Jacuzzi. There's an additional location in the 16th.

The company’s three-story flagship spa is set in a quiet courtyard off the Champs-Élysées, and no two treatments are alike. Instead, skin is meticulously examined with the Skin Instant Lab, which measures moisture, elasticity, pigmentation, and oil production. Next you’re ushered into a gorgeous, all-white treatment room, where a custom regimen of products for the facial is selected.

Australian-born hair stylist David Mallet's impeccable reputation is understandable: His rolodex of devoted editors, celebrities, and designers is deep, plus his army of pros do hair in a gorgeous, sun-washed space that's far from prying eyes. Herringbone floors, gold gilded molding, Eero Saarinen tulip chairs, and an aviary of rare taxidermied birds (white peacocks, ostriches, et al.) are nice touches, but they all play second fiddle to David Mallet's truly transformative cuts and color.

It may be a cliché that Parisians have perfect, perfectly imperfect hair, but it's probably a cliché for good reason. That tousled sensibility is partly because of Delphine and her team, who stand in the shadows behind some of the city's best heads. While the services here are top-notch, there's nothing intimidating about the girlishly glamorous salon, and the menu is well-priced considering the quality.

This is one of those spots that doesn't feel like it could possibly be in a bustling city: Faced with a flowering courtyard, stone walls, and a glass ceiling, La Maison Dr. Hauschka is oh-so-quiet. Fitting really, because the facials and massages are relaxing enough to knock anyone out. Their signature facial, developed by Dr. Hauschka co-founder Elisabeth Sigmund, is two hours of pure bliss—deep cleansing, layers of masks, compresses, and incredibly effective skin care.

Maison Guerlain's perfumes—in all their original, vintage-cut-glass glory—orbit around a giant chandelier on the ground floor here, which is probably the first clue that opulence awaits. Next, you'll notice the gold mosaic tiled walls as you ascend the sweeping staircase to the spa: Established in 1939, it's one of the first of its kind. The perfume house dates back to 1828, though it really hit its stride in 1853 when Pierre-Francis Guerlain created Eau de Cologne Impériale for Napoleon III. Washed in white marble, the spa is luxurious and precise—the facials, in particular, are straightforward and effective.

Vaulted stone ceilings and walls (vestiges from its first life as a 17th century wine cellar) may not immediately channel comfort and warmth, but Spa Nuxe is balanced by any number of tropical flourishes, like palm leaves, rattan, and a cozy pool for Watsu (there are multiple outposts in Paris). The gentle, plant-based Nuxe line never gets any complaints from us either, particularly when administered during a soothing facial.

While JAR (a.k.a. Joel Arthur Rosenthal) may have a shop—and that shop may be in Place Vendôme—there’s no point in swinging by unless he’s accepted your appointment. After all, there isn’t even a sign, much less regular hours. Making only 70-80 pieces per year, this reclusive designer and Harvard grad may have come from humble roots (he’s the child of a biology teacher and Bronx postal worker), but he’s made jewelry for some of the world’s most beautiful women. Those who can’t get an original (he won’t sell a piece to someone unless he’s convinced it’s a match), can always pick something up at auction: A 2006 Christie’s sale of Ellen Barkin’s JAR collection featured 17 pieces, including a 22.76-carat diamond ring that fetched more than 1.8 million.

This just might be the best bookstore in the world. It has the vibe of a warren-like country home rather than a straightforward shop. Books are piled haphazardly from floor to ceiling (many of which are in English), there are benches dotted here and there, and it's staffed mostly by college kids who are full of great recommendations. It’s also home to a rich literary history—over the years, Shakespeare and Company has played host to famous American writers like Allen Ginsberg, Ernest Hemingway, William Burroughs, and William Styron. Founder George Whitman (the shop is now run by his daughter, Sylvia) famously opened up the shop’s cozy benches and couches to artists and writers who needed a place to stay. Many of these drifting creatives—or tumbleweeds, as they became known—went on to become important literary figures in their own right.

There are very few boutiques that fully embody an aesthetic, but L’Eclaireur does this perfectly—no small feat, considering there are seven very distinct shops scattered around the city, as well as a bar/restaurant that doubles as a shrine to Piero Fornasetti. Armand and Martine Hadida’s original outpost in 1980 was incredibly important for a number of reasons, most notably because L’Eclaireur was the first to break brands like Prada, Helmut Lang, Dries van Noten, and Martin Margiela in France. While the Hadidas have had every opportunity to rest on their laurels, the pace has been relentless ever since as they’ve continued to ferret out the world’s best new talent, in fashion, in jewelry, and in home goods. While the mix at every spot varies, we like the moodily gothic Place des Victoires location best. Under the light cast by a strange and fantastic bird chandelier, you’ll find Fornasetti umbrella stands, chunky chain link bracelets from Mawi, cashmere travel wraps by Denis Colombe, and coated Saint Laurent skinny jeans. If time allows, their most recent project shouldn’t be missed, either: They’ve taken a space in Habitat 1964’s vintage village at Les Puces, where they’re selling a smattering of archival fashion pieces along with furniture. The first U.S. outpost recently opened in Los Angeles.

As seems to be the way in Paris, Pierre Hardy was many things before he was a shoe designer. Initially, the Parisian-born Hardy was a professional dancer. And then he was an illustrator for Vogue Hommes. And then he went to Christian Dior to design shoes, before moving on to Hermès. While he launched his own, iconic collection in 1999, he’s never stopped working for other brands. He’s still the creative director of Hermès’ fine jewelry, and he does men’s and women’s shoes for Balenciaga. His space in the Palais Royal is dark and gothic, which is a pretty epic backdrop for his day-glo shoes and cube-patterned clutches; his second location in the Palais Bourbon is equally (wonderfully) gloomy. There's another store located in the 1st.

Lined in lush blue velvet, stepping into Lydia Courteille feels a bit like stepping into a music box. It’s a fittingly dream-like backdrop for her handcrafted pieces which take a deep bow to fantasy. Fire opals are set in the maws of lizards, and diamond fireflies sit on carved coral flowers: All of her jewelry is stunningly unusual.

Artistic Director Gaia Repossi has transformed her family’s old-world institution—which is the official jeweler to the Royal Family of Monaco—into a relevant and modern brand. Ear cuffs, black diamond-studded earrings, rings that span two digits, and collaborations with designers like Alexander Wang may not be the normal provenance of a nearly-century old jewelry house, but the decidedly cool results justify the departure.

While its décor is colorful and eye-catching, the shoes and bags here skew more toward the understated. It’s an interesting mix of French and American brands with an eye toward lowkey luxe. Laurence Dacade boots mingle with K. Jacques and Ancient Greek Sandals, along with a handful of streamlined satchels from brands like Alexandre Mareuil and Cahu.

Lines like Masscob, The New Society, and Xirena set the tone here, which is equal parts girly and refined.

Now two locations strong, French Trotters pretty much epitomizes what a great boutique should be: Beyond a host of exclusive collaborations, their buyers manage to zero in on the best and most relevant items from the lines they stock. Everything, from the perfectly turned out Michel Vivien sandals to Jerome Dreyfuss totes, seems like an important wardrobe building block. Meanwhile, don’t miss the very well-priced house label.

Though Maison Bonnet is still relatively little-known, almost everyone has seen the house’s glasses. After all, this fourth-generation, Maitre d’Art-recognized, family-run business, which was officially established in 1950, has made some of the most iconic frames around. Yves Saint Laurent, Le Corbusier, Jackie Onassis, and Jacques Chirac were all clients. While you won’t be able to pick up a pair at your local optometrist’s office, you can visit their appointment-only Paris outpost, which actually just opened in 2009 (the company operates out of a workshop in Sens, Burgundy). There, a master craftsman will map your entire face, measuring three different angles of your nose, the gap between your temples, the overall structure of your skull, the shape and tenor of your cheekbones and eyes, etc. One pair of glasses requires three visits (the final two can be condensed, for those who are visiting), and while they’re revered for their work in tortoise shell, they do more affordable versions in horn and acetate as well.

Nothing Martin Margiela turns out is particularly basic, but thanks to a muted palette and exquisite tailoring, everything is supremely wearable. The Belgian designer’s boots are always classic (if cerebral), and his jewelry is pretty cool, too. MM6, Maison Martin Margiela’s more reasonably priced line, is located in Galeries Lafayette.

Francis Kurkdjian's nose may be responsible for some big blockbuster scents (he created Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male at the beginning of his career—and then went on to do dozens more scents for pretty much every big fashion house around), but it's his special projects that we love best. He helped artist Sophie Calle bottle the smell of money in 2003, and in 2006 he re-created the scent of Marie Antoinette for an installation at Versailles. It's no surprise that at his namesake gallery-like boutiques in the 1st and 4th arrondissements, things are done a little differently: Perfumes are set against a wall of light, and the offerings go well beyond the traditional. His signature scents infuse everything from incense paper to leather bracelets to home sprays, and his now-famous traveling perfume case is on hand should you require a custom fragrance.

While officially part of Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, these two markets are distinct enough to stand on their own: Here's you'll find the more rarified antiques and easy proximity to the delicious restaurant Ma Cocette.

Though you'll likely recognize some of the big names here by their signature style, White Bird breaks new designers onto the scene, too. The vibe is low-key and unintimidating, making this a great resource for significant others who need some guidance and are in gift-buying mode.

Helmed by Audrey Halin and Marie Leonetti, two 30-somethings with an inarguably excellent knack for finding buried treasures, Bulle (which means Bubble in French) sells those treasures, reimagined. Whether it's a mid-century credenza that's been revitalized with a some cherry red paint, or a sturdy sideboard, inset with tiles, the pieces here don't feel retro or kitschy at all. They're fun and bright and wonderfully modern. There's also an in-house line of new pieces that are indistinguishable from their vintage peers (but obviously, not one of a kind).

So here's the deal: Sir Terence Conran's Habitat, which launched in England in 1964 with the sole premise of bringing affordable, useful, and beautiful everyday objects to the masses, pioneered the renovation of a massive former chandelier factory at Les Puces. And then they enlisted famed fashion retailer L'Eclaireur and a handful of venerable antiques dealers to join them in opening up shops. At Habitat, you'll find iconic vintage pieces from the company's past 40 years—all sourced from the staff and a general online appeal. If you're looking to unload a few Habitat pieces from years ago, you can likely sell them back here. Meanwhile, don't miss La Buvette in the complex, which traffics in cakes and excellent coffee.

With a palette of muted tones, and pieces that look like they belong in a sand-washed cabin on the beach, Caravane is a useful resource for unfussy linens—both for the bed and the table.

Flea market is a bit of a misnomer for Les Puces, which is inarguably the world’s most iconic: It’s a destination for antique and interiors lovers, and lined with the dealers that service them. You won’t find fledgling stalls—you’ll find full-on stores. In short: There’s no thrifting here, and very little that could be perceived as a bargain. The goods are gorgeous, though, and justify the high price tags.

Le Grand Salon, located at the Hôtel Particulier Montmartre, is designed to offer a respite from the craziness of the city. The classic French cuisine and seasonal cocktails can easily stand on their own, but you'll enjoy them even more if you sit in the property’s hidden garden. The weekend brunch is legendary, and the intimate bar, Le Très Particulier, is worth a visit.

With the style of a ’40s British lounge, this is the perfect respite after a morning haul through the Louvre. They have a great value prix-fixe menu, but we usually come for a snack, savored over an international paper on one of the library room’s overstuffed leather couches. Creaky wooden floors, a constant stream of jazz, and a well-heeled clientele make any pitstop here feel like a dignified affair.

Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a delicious range of entrées and desserts. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat.

Named for their son, Ferdinand, owners Alicia and Jacques Fontanier decorated this tiny spot with artifacts and ephemera from his childhood. It’s a nice touch, as is the cheeseburger, which is known as one of Paris’s best. This spot is particularly big with a fashion crowd.

The bric-à-brac décor here is pretty irresistible, and it’s also the perfect backdrop for one of our favorite, out-of-the-way date night spots in Paris. The homestyle French cooking is as exuberant as the surroundings—and it’s topped off with excellent dessert.

Since the 1920’s, Caviar Kaspia has been offering a luxurious, old-world Russian experience—with a beautiful view of the Eglise de la Madeleine. Plush, and paneled in wood, there aren’t many surprises in the dining room: You’ll find top-shelf caviar, blinis, champagne, and loads of vodka. Be sure to call ahead for a table, as the restaurant no longer takes online reservations.

At 250 seats, this bustling, Phillipe Starck-designed restaurant has an industrial loft feel, which is actually a nice, modern antidote to the antique vendors in the surrounding flea. The food is feel-good French (ratatouille, green bean salad, steak frites), which is exactly what you want after a long morning of treasure-hunting at the Les Puces.

In Paris, charming little eateries are a dime a dozen, but this bistro is a true standout. Located just steps from the Musée d’Orsay on the left bank, it serves reasonably priced French fare (duck breast, eggplant, tarte tatin), excellent wine, all against a backdrop of a lipstick-red banquette and a caricature wall. This is a neighborhood spot that gets pretty packed with locals in the evenings, so don’t expect to run into too many tourists.

On summer nights, the crowds here spill out onto the streets; when winter’s chill descends, it’s one of the cozier spots in the Marais.

Situated on the quay of the Docks en Seine—also home to Paris's fashion institute—Wanderlust is a bit more than just a club/bar/restaurant. Though a small part of the enterprise lives indoors, it primarily resides on the sprawling outdoor terrace which overlooks the Seine. Exposed pipes, neon lights, live music (DJs, generally), and a stylish crowd are all hallmarks of this much-buzzed-about destination.

Leave it to the mind behind Twin Peaks and Blue Velvet to engineer Paris's most labyrinth-like club—in one of the city's most culturally significant buildings. Constructed in the late 19th century as a publishing press for France's leftist newspapers, Émile Zola printed "J'Accuse" there in 1898, and rumor has it that Molière might be buried in its hallowed ground. For its 2011 opening, David Lynch designed the entire, garret-like space himself, from the futuristic theater to the wood-block lined passageway to the '60s-style bar. Until midnight, it's a private club with screenings, talks, and private exhibits; after midnight, it's a full-on dance club with some of Europe's best DJs.

A wildly ornate bas-relief ceiling—moodily lit by Versailles-worthy chandeliers—is actually not the first indication that this isn't your average bar (that would be the gigantic birdcage at the entrance). Occupying the former mansion of composer Georges Bizet (hence the name, Carmen), this Pigalle club gets particularly busy around fashion week, when any number of designers host their after-parties here. While DJs play until 4 a.m. on weekends, the space hosts more-civilized affairs, too.

Smack in the middle of Paris’ Golden Triangle (Avenue Montaigne, the Champs-Élysées, and the Grand Palais), Martin Margiela—known and loved for his very specific and very conceptual spin on fashion—doesn’t immediately come to mind as a likely candidate for a hotel interior decorator. After all, his namesake boutiques tend to be impossible to find and packed with thrilling—though stark—design flourishes. But there’s nothing cold about Le Maison Champs-Elysée: It’s cool and other-worldly, but its architectural moments (neon signs, chairs draped to resemble ghosts, a rhomboid concierge desk) never compromise on comfort.

This intimate maison—the former home of the Hermès family—has just five guest rooms, each one distinct: One has luxe bachelor pad vibes, done up in black marble and leopard print wallpaper; another is light and airy, with details that call in the lush, ivy-lined courtyards that surround the building. Speaking of: This place has one of the biggest and prettiest gardens of any Paris hotel, with gravel courtyards, lush ivy, and wrought iron bistro tables. Dedicate an evening to dinner in the loungey dining room, Le Grand Salon,, and drinks at the glowing, gilded bar, Le Très Particulier.

A hotel inspired by the residences of great nineteenth-century writers and thinkers like Alexandre Dumas—hence the Monte Cristo reference—seems fitting for the Left Bank location. (The neighborhood has long been considered the center of gravity for Parisian intellectuals.) Let's start at the bottom: the pool, surrounded by plants and blue tile, is pretty, intimate, and so necessary after a day spent pounding the cobblestones. And the same goes for the sauna. The guest rooms (go for the boudoir option) are quietly luxurious with rich navy carpets, beautiful frescoes behind the headboards, and the softest white sheets. Touches like tapestries, sumptuous textiles, and painted wallpaper articulate the communal areas and look a lot like the furnishings the Count of Monte Cristo himself might have encountered during his travels. In a city where everyone goes out, staying in for a swim, a steam, and a rum cocktail at the hotel bar is incredibly appealing. The breakfast spread is also worth mentioning. It's served at the bar, and the pastry situation rivals that of the best bakeries in the city.

The Foundation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, situated in a Jean Nouvel-designed glass building and fronted by a soaring garden wall, houses an important—and growing—contemporary art collection. Don’t miss their Nomadic Nights, when the Foundation invites contemporary artists to host evenings of concerts, screenings, lectures, and performances.

Built on the collection of co-founder Henri Langlois—who, with the help of friends, managed to smuggle most of his compendium of films out of France before the German Occupation—the Cinématheque Francaise houses one of the largest movie archives in the world. Though it's had a peripatetic existence, it's now housed in a Frank Gehry-designed building. There are exhibitions along with daily screenings of classics (and a restaurant on the ground floor).

Home to Paris's fashion institute, this rehabbed 1907 warehouse on the Seine—marked by an undulating lime green glass roof—also plays host to exhibition spaces and a handful of boutiques (many of which sell student work). The real draw, though, is the bar/club/rooftop restaurant called Wanderlust on the quay level. It occupies an outdoor terrace where you can catch an open-air screening or just sit in the sun.

In a wildly compelling juxtaposition, this museum pairs electronic music and digital arts with the facade of an original 19th-century theatre. While the exhibitions are great, try to catch a concert here—and cap it off with a cocktail at the bar.

Best known for giving Damien Hirst his first solo show in 1991, Galerie Perrotin trailblazed in the Asian art market (they also gave Takashi Murakami his first exhibition outside of Japan). Over the intervening years, Galerie Perrotin's pace hasn't dwindled: They continue to launch up-and-coming artists from around the globe.

Chez Valentin may be small in size, but it's big on ambition: The contemporary artwork here always pushes the envelope in the most compelling way.

This is Chantal Crousel's second location, offering the same reliably excellent mix of emerging and established artists from the contemporary art scene: In the past, she's exhibited talents like Cindy Sherman, Jenny Holzer, Sophie Calle, and Richard Prince.

Opened in 2006 in a soaring space designed by Jean Nouvel, this is part museum and part research/education center. You'll see a compendious display of objects and art from African, Oceanic, Asian, and American cultures that truly appeals to all ages. We always make any trip here revolve around lunch in order to take a pitstop at Les Ombres on the 5th floor: It has great views of the Eiffel Tower.

This is officially part of Les Artes Décoratifs (the main museum occupies the Western wing of the Louvre), but this is a great opportunity to tour a former private home and see pieces in situ. Incredibly intricate rugs, needlepoint chairs, and gorgeous table settings. Built in 1911 by Comte Moïse de Camondo, a Sephardic jew whose family made its fortune in banking in the Ottoman Empire, the house was left to his son, Nissim, who was killed in World War I; Moïse established the home as a museum in his honor. Years later, Moïse's daughter, Béatrice, and her family were killed in Auschwitz.

Thaddaeus Ropac opened his first gallery in Salzburg when he was only 23, followed by an outpost in Paris seven years later. He represents a host of international talents (including Anselm Keifer), and is known for ambitious exhibitions and plenty of guest star curators (including Sofia Coppola). Thaddaeus Ropac also opened a space in the Paris suburb of Pantin, which easily justifies a trip for collectors.

While the work of photographers like Helmut Newton might hypothetically seem too stark and modern for this rambling and elegant 18th century mansion, it's a combination that totally works: Beyond an impressive permanent collection, this museum always lands the exhibitions everyone is talking about, whether it's Shirin Neshat, Henri Cartier-Bresson, or Sebastião Salgado. Keep in mind that they're closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.