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Coutume

7th Arrondissement, Paris, France

why we love it

This lablike Left Bank coffee house is owned by two pals (one Australian, one French)—and it offers so much more than standard espresso. Like so many Parisian cafés, this one has an indoor/outdoor seating situation making it a people-watching paradise. But you can actually get some work done, too—the interior is soothing, the Wi-Fi is free, and tables are roomy enough to spread out. You can also grab a quick breakfast or soup-and-salad lunch.

Originally featured in The Paris Hipster Guide

category

Specialty

Coutume

47 Rue de Babylone, 7th

phone number

+33.9.88.40.47.99

hours

Mon-Fri: 8:30am-5:30pm

Sat-Sun: 9am-6pm

visit website

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Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 2 Allée de la Cascade, 19th

This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.

Le Verre Volé

Le Verre Volé

67 Rue de Lancry, 10th

Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a market (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt).

Au Passage

Au Passage

1 Bis Passage St. Sébastien, 11th

This one-room wine bar requires a walk down a very long (and at night, scarily dark) passage, but the music, lively crowd, and simple but solid menu of French small plates justify the gauntlet. While Aux Deux Amis down the street may tempt with a similar wine bar concept, it gets way too packed: Au Passage, which also feels a bit more grown-up, easily wins out.

Le Baron Rouge

Le Baron Rouge

1 Rue Théophile Roussel, 12th
Mon: 5pm-10pm
Tues-Thurs: 10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Fri-Sat: 10am-10pm
Sun: 10am-4pm

While it's not required, locals bring their own glass bottles and fill them with wine from the barrels near the door. This is not a place for picky oenophiles as the wine here is more the "house" variety, but it's still a great place to put back a few glasses with some small plates.

Rivié

Rivié

30-32 Rue du Sentier, 2nd
Sun-Weds: 7am-12:30am
Thurs-Sat: 7am-1:30am

Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. Settle onto a velvet barstool, order a glass of champagne or a dirty martini, chat with the friendly bartenders, and order plates of onion rings and tartare on toast as the evening slips into night.

Candelaria

Candelaria

52 Rue de Saintonge, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 5pm-2am
Sat-Sun: 12pm-2am

This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.

Experimental Cocktail Club

Experimental Cocktail Club

37 Rue St. Sauveur, 2nd
Mon-Sat: 7pm-2am
Sun: 8pm-2am

In true speakeasy fashion, this very-adored spot is behind an unmarked door, on a dimly lit, pedestrian-only alley. But beyond the appeal of being impossible-to-find, Parisians really come because they love the artful cocktails. It gets crowded after 11 and is generally packed on weekends; there are now outposts in New York City and London as well.

Grand Appétit

Grand Appétit

9 Rue de la Cerisaie, 4th
Permanently Closed

We turn to this frill-free vegan eatery when we need some steamed veggies, brown rice, and green tea after too many frites. They do takeout as well, which can be hard to find in this town.

Le 404

Le 404

69 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm

While we’ve arguably had better Moroccan, Le 404 isn’t really about the food (though the lentils and chicken tagines are a welcome culinary break from beef bourguignon): It’s always a party, best capped off with a cocktail at Andy Wahloo next door (from the same owners). Keep in mind that Le 404 is also open on Sundays, a Parisian rarity.

Derriere

Derriere

69 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 12pm-2pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-11pm

This speakeasy-esque spot in the Marais is run by brothers Mourad and Hakim Mazouz and takes “homey atmosphere” to the next level. For one, it’s set up like a bohemian apartment, with diners taking their pick from the kitchen, dining room, boudoir, or living room—which has a ping-pong table in the center. Upstairs, a smoking lounge is hidden behind a secret doorway (in an antique armoire, naturally). The extreme comfort theme also applies to the menu, with steak frites taking top billing for dinner and an epic brunch spread on weekends.

Glou

Glou

101 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Thurs: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sat: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-11:30pm
Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30-10:30pm

The Marais is flush with casual dining spots, which means this two-story restaurant fits in perfectly. There are communal tables on the ground floor for larger parties and walk-ins, and the menu, though full of French delicacies, isn’t the least bit pretentious. The wine list is nicely reasonable, too, in both selection and price.

Vivant 2

Vivant 2

43 Rue des Petites-Ecuries, 10th

Pierre Jancou, who honed his skills at Paris’s popular Racines, opened this hip little mural-tiled restaurant on a windy street in the 10th. There’s a heavy focus on provenance here, especially with the wines, many of which are natural.

La Palette

La Palette

43 Rue de Seine, 6th

This café looks straight out of central casting: The large main room, complete with mirrored walls and dotted with paintings, is almost always packed. Despite the area's popularity with tourists, La Palette still feels undiscovered, as it’s predominantly peopled by locals.

Kitchen

Kitchen

74 Rue des Gravilliers, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 8am-2:30pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-3:30pm

At lunch, Kitchen is overrun with health-conscious Parisians who sidle up to the communal tables for salads, veggie stews, and cold-pressed juice.

Maisie Café

Maisie Café

32 Rue du Mont Thabor, 1st
Mon-Fri: 9am-5:30pm
Sat: 10am-5pm

Maisie Café brings a taste of LA juice culture to Paris. The brainchild of former luxury exec turned wellness enthusiast Isabella Capece, Maisie Café has an all-vegan, organic menu that reflects the more health-conscious direction many new Parisian spots are heading in. Breakfast is light, with acai bowls, granola, juices, and shakes. Lunch is pure West Coast in the sense that most of the dishes are bowl-based: brown rice or soba noodles topped with the freshest veggies, nuts, and seeds. The fashion pack who hit Paris for the shows are big fans of Maisie's cures—hot and cold soups, elixirs, and broths for every ailment, all available for delivery. If you do choose to sit in, the interior feels like a balmy escape to Miami with tropical-print walls and pastel seating.

Wild & The Moon

Wild & The Moon

55 Rue Charlot, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 8am-9pm
Sun: 9am-9pm

A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & The Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—blue moon smoothies, golden lattes, and matcha mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call.

Pink Mamma

Pink Mamma

20 bis Rue de Douai, 9th
Mon-Wed: 12pm-2:15pm, 6:45pm-10:45pm
Thurs-Fri: 12pm-2:15pm, 6:45pm-11pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm-4:15pm, 6:15pm-11pm

A sister to the absurdly popular Ober Mamma, Pink Mamma is a welcome Italian-centric addition to the very French dining scene in Pigalle. The four flights that take you up to the most Instagrammable dining room—it has a giant skylight for a roof!—are well worth the sore legs. There are plants everywhere, haphazardly placed furniture, mixed prints—in fact, the whole place might as well have been airlifted from Rome, right down to the menu. House-made pasta, grilled proteins, and really excellent pizza.

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

Hôtel Particulier Montmartre

23 Ave. Junot Pavillon D, 18th

This intimate maison—the former home of the Hermès family—has just five guest rooms, each one distinct: One has luxe bachelor pad vibes, done up in black marble and leopard print wallpaper; another is light and airy, with details that call in the lush, ivy-lined courtyards that surround the building. Speaking of: This place has one of the biggest and prettiest gardens of any Paris hotel, with gravel courtyards, lush ivy, and wrought iron bistro tables. Dedicate an evening to dinner in the loungey dining room, Le Grand Salon,, and drinks at the glowing, gilded bar, Le Très Particulier.

Hôtel Amour

Hôtel Amour

8 Rue de Navarin, 9th

Close to Pigalle—Paris’s former red light district—Hôtel Amour takes a deep bow to the neighborhood’s tawdry past. There’s a wee bit of erotica on the walls (making this not the best choice if you’re traveling with little ones...it’s like Paris’s version of Chateau Marmont), but the nightclub-esque space is still tasteful: The halls are lacquered in black, the art is cool, and a handful of the hotel’s rooms were designed by artists (Marc Newson, Sophie Calle, and Pierre LeTan all took interior decorating turns). The spaces are small, but that doesn’t really matter—the common areas, like the scene-y bar and outdoor terrace, are where you’ll want to spend most of your time anyway. The space was conceived by night life visionary André Saraiva, who is the force behind Le Baron—he knows how to throw a good party.

Hôtel du Rond Point des Champs-Élysées

Hôtel du Rond Point des Champs-Élysées

10 Rue de Ponthieu, 8th

This elegantly restored hotel is a mere five minutes from Paris’s center of gravity, the Champs-Élysées, which really means it’s five minutes from everything. The first thing to note is that there is an actual hammam in the basement. After a long day of sightseeing, a few laps in the pool followed by a steam is a healing balm for exhausted feet and sore muscles. Aesthetically, the Art Deco influence is quietly done and hidden in the details, like the lamps, the restrained use of marble (and the not-so-restrained use of stripes to beautiful results), pretty velvet upholstery, even the occasional in-room porthole. Unbeatable location aside, the attentive staff and excellent service catapult this new hotel to the top of the short list of excellent places to stay. The adorably small hotel bar and the sexy dining room make leaving that much harder.

Hôtel Belleval

Hôtel Belleval

16 Rue de la Pépinière, 8th

At Hôtel Belleval, the floral theme is obvious (the hallways are done in contrasting floral carpeting and wallpaper) but not overwhelming (the occasional petal-patterned cushion or upholstered armchair, the odd framed print of a rose or lily), just enough to pay homage to the botanist the hotel is dedicated to. All fifty-two guest rooms feel like a breath of fresh air with their elegant navy walls, floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the rooftops of Paris, and beautifully outfitted bathrooms. The hotel restaurant is refreshingly low-key with a natural, mostly organic menu that is the perfect antidote to too many plates of steak-frites. Additional perks are the interior courtyard which feels like a secret garden in the middle of the city and the library—a godsend for the traveler who needs to mix work with play.

Mama Shelter Paris East

Mama Shelter Paris East

109 Rue de Bagnolet, 20th

Though it’s in the slightly far-flung 20th (which gets cooler every month), Mama Shelter wins big points for its reasonable prices. This burgeoning chainlet—with locations in Lisbon, Lyon, Marseille, and Bourdeaux—is a bit like the Ace Hotel family. The outposts attract a 20-something crowd by offering complimentary Wifi, free movies, and quirky design moments, like ceilings covered with chalkboard scrawl, Minnie Mouse nightlights, and an always-crowded bar.

Miznon

Miznon

22 Rue des Ecouffes, 4th
Sun-Thurs: 12pm-11pm
Fri: 12pm-4pm

This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.

Le Camion Qui Fume

Le Camion Qui Fume

It was only a matter of time before the food truck craze struck Paris. After all, Parisians are already accustomed to street-side crepe vendors. Pioneered by a Californian, Le Camion Qui Fume revolves around burgers of every variety (including veggie and pork) and the corresponding frites. The French are huge fans, so be prepared to wait around forty minutes; the truck's roving location is posted to its website. If that's not your style, they've also opened a few permanent locations around the city.

Bob’s Juice Bar

Bob’s Juice Bar

15 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 10th

Whether you want a green juice to kick off what will otherwise be a day of gluttony, or need a palate-cleanser after a string of rich French meals, this tiny space offers a respite. Besides cold-pressed juice (Paris’s first foray into that space), you’ll find locals feasting on quinoa salads and veggie-laden muffins at the communal table.

Bob’s Bake Shop

Bob’s Bake Shop

12 Esplanade Nathalie Sarraute, 18th
Mon-Fri: 8am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-2:30pm

It's all baked on-site at this latest venture from Bob, from the hand-rolled bagels to the lattice-topped pies. While the menu channels America, the prices are a bit higher than what you'd expect to pay in the states for a shmear. It's still delicious, and fulfills that very specific only-a-bagel-will-do desire.

Jerome Dreyfuss

Jerome Dreyfuss

4 Rue Jacob, 6th
Mon-Fri: 11am-7pm
Sat: 11am-7:30pm

Invariably, when you see an Isabel Marant, you'll see an outpost of Jerome Dreyfuss. Not only is there a subtly shared aesthetic, but Jerome and Isabel are married. For the most part, the bags here are perfectly slouchy, and the shoes are kind of exactly what you want for a low-key weekend in the city.

A.P.C.

A.P.C.

23 Rue Royale, 8th

Known for making the ideal version of everyday staples, you can always rely on A.P.C. for perfectly considered trench coats, dark wash jeans, and striped tops that are just the right thickness. Men, in particular, always strike gold here since their simple shapes easily elevate any outfit without ever trying too hard (guys who struggle to find well-fitting jeans should definitely take look here). While there are nine outposts across the city, we like this one best; meanwhile, don't miss the outlet in the 18th, where everything is always 50 percent off. There are other locations in the 3rd (Rue Vielle du Temple, Boulevard des Filles du Calvaire), the 1st, 6th, 10th, and the 17th.

Isabel Marant

Isabel Marant

59 Rue de Seine, 6th

Isabel Marant has done a pretty amazing job of building a slavishly devoted fan base: It's partly because her clothes used to be nearly impossible to find unless you bought a ticket to Paris, and partly because she nails a bohemian-meets-modern aesthetic that always just works.

Mes Demoiselles

Mes Demoiselles

21 Rue St. Sulpice, 6th
Mon-Sat: 10:30am-2pm, 3pm-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-2pm, 3pm-6pm

Lace-trimmed shirts, pointelle peasant blouses, and delicate floral prints are signature tricks of the eponymous line here. They do it really well.

The Broken Arm

The Broken Arm

12 Rue Perrée, 3rd
Mon: 1pm-7pm
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm

Part café, part boutique, attention to detail is paramount at this minimalist space, whether it's the streamlined shape of a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Prada loafers, or the perfect cappucino and slice of cake.

Merci

Merci

111 Blvd. Beaumarchais, 3rd
Sun-Wed: 10:30am-7:30pm
Thurs-Sat: 10:30am-8pm

It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, profits go to charities in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; natural shampoos and Comme des Garçons perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting the Used Book Café in the basement, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch.

Centre Commercial

Centre Commercial

2 Rue de Marseille, 10th
Mon–Sat: 11am–8pm
Sun: 2pm–7pm

Large and loftlike, this industrial-feeling store has an ambitious mandate: fair-trade clothing and accessories from little-known and established artisan brands, mixed in with a smattering of vintage furniture, art books, records, and indie zines. If you've got little ones, don't miss the outpost devoted to kids.

Marché aux Puces de Vanves

Marché aux Puces de Vanves

Ave. Georges Lafenestre, 14th

Regardless of what the skies bring, you'll always find a seemingly endless row of tables at this outdoor, year-round flea. Unlike the situation at Les Puces, there are treasures for those who are willing to dig.

Fleux

Fleux

39 & 52 Rue St. Croix de la Bretonnerie, 4th
Sun-Fri: 10:45am-8:30pm
Sat: 10:15am-8:30pm

This shop literally spans a block—and what feels like a big block. Inside, you'll find every iteration of every modern home trend, which can overwhelm, but if you can take the time to really look, you'll find tons to lug home.

Delfonics

Delfonics

Carrousel du Louvre, 99 Rue de Rivoli, 1st

Tucked away underground beneath the Louvre (there's a mini mall down there with the Mona Lisa, including an Apple Store) is the only Delfonics store outside of Japan. The brand specializes in precise, beautiful, and modern office supplies and stationery, like the perfect pen, stapler, and notebook. It also does fashion collabs, like Delfonics for Carven.

The Kooples

The Kooples

74 Rue Bonaparte, 6th
Mon: 11am-7pm
Tues-Fri: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sat: 10:30am-8pm

Started by three brothers (whose family made its fortune from French brand, Comptoir des Cotonniers), this brand splashed out across Paris aggressively and loudly. Their ad campaigns—of stylish couples who both look, and dress alike—are a good reflection of the subtly tough and subtly unisex wares here. Leather bomber jackets, graphic t-shirts, and streamlined sweaters are all part of the mix.

Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

5 Rue des Filles du Calvaire, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-7:30pm
Sat: 11am-8pm
Sun: 1:30pm-7pm

You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee.

Love Stories Paris

Love Stories Paris

75 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7pm
Sun: 2pm-7pm

Love Stories hails from Amsterdam, but the lingerie is so delicate, it may as well be Parisian. The matching sets, which come in varying degrees of skimpiness, are a good place to start. We love the selection of supremely comfortable bralettes in cotton and lace for traveling, or just lounging in. There’s also a smart edit of accessories, and somehow, we can never leave the store without adding a silk sleep mask or floral-print laundry bag (so convenient for storing underwear or purses) to our basket.

Maison Labiche

Maison Labiche

105 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd
Mon-Sat: 11am-7:30pm
Sun: 11am-7pm

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

Mirz Yoga

Mirz Yoga

145 Rue de Belleville, 19th

Plagued by stomach pains, Marine “Mirz” Parmentier found relief in yoga and became obsessed, leaving her communications job to train in India. She founded Mirz Yoga, where you can take Hatha, Pranayama, and R&B Yoga classes designed for all levels, including prenatal and children.

Hôtel Dame des Arts

Hôtel Dame des Arts

4 Rue Danton, 6th

In the Latin Quarter, right between Boulevard Saint-Germain and the Seine, Hôtel Dame des Arts is a contemporary gem in a very old part of town. Guest rooms may not be incredibly spacious—this is Paris, after all—but they make good use of their limited square footage, and large windows keep the space from feeling cramped. That said, it’s worth shelling out for a premium room or a suite, some of which come with balconies or private terraces. At the downstairs restaurant, which has a pretty courtyard garden, chef Othoniel Alvarez Castańeda pulls off Mexican-French-Asian fusion. And the rooftop bar is an especially cool place to hang out for sunset drinks; it’s a rare place in Paris with a 360-degree view, and you should soak it in for as long as possible. The teensy spa has just one treatment room (for massages, exclusively) and a sauna, but the fitness room (also small) is visually stunning enough to carve out time for, even if your schedule’s packed.

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs

92 Rue de Vaugirard, 6th

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs occupies a middle ground that’s increasingly hard to come by in Paris: It’s well-designed and the service is solid, but it’s not true luxury, and the price point matches. The guest rooms run on the small side, but they are quite pretty, done up in a palette of cream, chestnut, pistachio, and slate blue—vaguely nautical, as are a few other details. The downstairs bar is a highlight: Poppy is inspired by the clandestine energy of speakeasies and opium dens, with good cocktails and better DJ sets. You might take advantage of the small gym and sauna downstairs, too.

Hôtel Henriette

Hôtel Henriette

9 Rue des Gobelins, 13th

This boutique hotel is proof that affordable doesn’t necessarily mean scruffy and outdated. Though you won’t find all the creature comforts here, first-time hotelier Vanessa Scoffier has done wonders decorating with a mostly pastel palette, vintage finds, and an overall DIY/Scandi aesthetic. Added benefits, like the super thoughtful concierge service and fresh flowers, do go a long way.

Hotel Lutetia

Hotel Lutetia

45 Blvd. Raspail, 6th

Taking up half a city block, this is a hotel with history. During WWI, Russians fleeing the revolution stayed here. During WWII, occupying forces took the place over—and over the following years, concentration camp survivors, their families, and at one point, even Charles de Gaulle lived here. James Joyce played piano in the bar, and Antoine de Saint-Éxupery was a regular. Suffice to say, Lutetia has acted as a refuge for people throughout the last century. Designers went heavy on the marble and, on the upper floors, a dark eucalyptus wood. The basement now features an exquisite spa and swimming pool (a rarity in Paris). The brasserie and the bar are beloved by Left Bank residents, with many treating the facilities as extensions of their own homes. On any given night, there is no better seat in Paris than at Bar Josephine.

Hôtel Montalembert

Hôtel Montalembert

3 Rue de Montalembert, 7th

Over the years, we’ve built a lot of wonderful memories here, in part because this is the sort of unpretentious and unfussy hotel that focuses on comfort rather than flash. While it’s fronted by an old-world, Beaux Arts exterior, the rooms are chic and modern.

Hotel Monte Cristo

Hotel Monte Cristo

20-22 Rue Pascal, 5th

A hotel inspired by the residences of great nineteenth-century writers and thinkers like Alexandre Dumas—hence the Monte Cristo reference—seems fitting for the Left Bank location. (The neighborhood has long been considered the center of gravity for Parisian intellectuals.) Let's start at the bottom: the pool, surrounded by plants and blue tile, is pretty, intimate, and so necessary after a day spent pounding the cobblestones. And the same goes for the sauna. The guest rooms (go for the boudoir option) are quietly luxurious with rich navy carpets, beautiful frescoes behind the headboards, and the softest white sheets. Touches like tapestries, sumptuous textiles, and painted wallpaper articulate the communal areas and look a lot like the furnishings the Count of Monte Cristo himself might have encountered during his travels. In a city where everyone goes out, staying in for a swim, a steam, and a rum cocktail at the hotel bar is incredibly appealing. The breakfast spread is also worth mentioning. It's served at the bar, and the pastry situation rivals that of the best bakeries in the city.

Les Suites Cinabre

Les Suites Cinabre

14 Cité Bergère, 9th

Above the boutique of artisan tie-maker Cinabre, this hotel consists of only two guest apartments, both beautifully and expertly decorated: upholstery by Pierre Frey, beds by Hästens, linens by Bergan Delorme, tableware by Cristal de Paris, and dressing gowns, slippers, silk scarves, and stationary by Cinabre itself. Plus: in-room massages, excellent room-service breakfast, knowledgeable concierge service, meticulously curated vinyl collections—there’s a vintage turntable in each room—and access to the exclusive and prestigious squash club Club du Jeu de Paume de Paris.

L'Hotel

L'Hotel

13 Rue des Beaux-Arts, 6th

Having “The smallest five-star hotel in Paris” for a tagline is pretty attractive, especially to the guest who prefers an under-the-radar, bespoke experience. With only twenty rooms and one of our favorite, hammam-style subterranean pools hidden beneath the building (for guests only), L’Hotel nails the bohemian vibe of the Left Bank. Guest rooms are what could be described as “intimate”, but the décor is so beautiful that you forget the square footage. With rich brocade wallpaper that looks like patterned velvet, antique furnishings, soft lamps, and supremely comfortable beds, no two rooms are the same. Book into the Oscar Wilde suite (the hotel’s most famous visitor was actually staying on the premises when he died) for the bathroom alone. The yellow and green tiles, emerald marble tub, and mahogany wall panels make a nightly bath mandatory, while the antique writing desk and private terrace ooze old-world allure.

Aux Prés

Aux Prés

27 Rue du Dragon, 6th

Tucked away in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this eternally cool brasserie mixes classic French and Asian-inspired dishes, like black truffle croque-monsieur, sea bream carpaccio, grilled filet, and the juiciest cheeseburger ever. Old leather cushion banquettes and marble countertops contrast with chic black-floral wallpaper; it’s both cozy and romantic.

Bistrot Paul Chene Cherche Midi

Bistrot Paul Chene Cherche Midi

79 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th
Tues–Fri: 12pm–2:30pm, 7:30pm–10:45pm
Sat: 1pm–3pm, 7:30pm–10:45pm

If you’d like to experience classic Parisian bistro food—escargot, duck à l’orange, cordon bleu, foie gras, eggs mayonnaise, frog legs, and more—dodge the tourist traps near the Eiffel Tower and aim straight for Paul Chêne. The food here is excellent and the service is personal and warm. (Often, the owner Harold Chêne will serve you himself.) Don’t skip the orange cognac liqueur, which they make in house based on an old family recipe. The restaurant only has a handful of tables, and they always book out; make reservations by phone and well in advance.

Blueberry

Blueberry

6 Rue du Sabot, 6th
Mon-Wed: 12pm-2:30pm, 7pm-10:30pm
Thus-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7pm-11pm
Sat: 12:30pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm
Sun: 12:30pm-3pm, 7pm-10:30pm

Travelers missing their sushi fix usually slink over to Blueberry on night three in Paris, when the capacity to consume another plate of steak-frites is officially no more. Purists be warned: The maki are on the innovative side, imbued with tropical, citrusy flavors like mango and yuzu (trust us: These rolls are next-level good). The atmosphere is more disco than serene. Whitewashed stone walls are illuminated electric blue and neon pink, while dozens of low-hanging lamps dispel any notions of a romantic dinner. Come at lunch for value, but dinnertime is when the ambiance reaches a celebratory fever pitch, when the lighting is most dramatic. Somehow, those perfect, umami-rich mouthfuls just taste better after dark.

Café de Flore

Café de Flore

172 Blvd. St. Germain, 6th

This classic Parisian Art Deco café on the corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain has played host to everyone from Sartre to Picasso. They came for coffee and people-watching, and so should you: When the weather’s nice, find a spot on the outdoor patio and get a big café crème. (Or swing by just to see the place: The food's just okay, and the crowd inside made up of tourists exclusively, but the institution itself is pretty iconic.)

Cinq-Mars

Cinq-Mars

51 Rue de Verneuil, 7th
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Sat: 12:30pm-3pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm

Unpretentious and laid-back, this is the sort of restaurant that’s the perfect reprieve after a few days of big, loud brasseries. The food is simple but well-prepared and nicely affordable, too.

Eggs and Co.

Eggs and Co.

11 Rue Bernard Palissy, 6th
Mon-Tues: 10am-4pm
Thurs-Fri: 10am-4pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-6pm

Paris is not a brunch place, which means that this cheery, wood-beam lined spot is aggressively slammed on weekends. Go during the week: While they offer every conceivable iteration of egg dish, we like the Coco Meurette best. It features poached eggs submerged in a dreamy red wine and mushroom sauce.

Joséphine Chez Dumonet

Joséphine Chez Dumonet

117 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th

Chez Dumonet has been serving up classic bistro fare for decades, in a dining room that dates back over a century (to 1880 to be exact). Its Belle Epoque vibe is totally charming, made even better by the clientele: You can be assured that everyone in the dining room is likely a grandparent a few times over. Keep in mind that Chez Dumonet offers many half orders, which is key if you’re not staying in a spot that can accommodate leftovers (portions tend to be generous).

L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre

L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre

3 Carrefour de l'Odeon, 6th

Yves Camdeborde was so busy at his popular Left Bank restaurant, Le Comptoir, that he opted to accommodate the overflow by opening a tiny bar à vin next door. Though it’s standing room only, which is quite common in Paris, the delicious Béarnais-style small plates are worth tempting discomfort. We promise it’s a pleasant experience.

La Fontaine de Mars

La Fontaine de Mars

129 Rue St. Dominique, 7th
Mon-Fri: 12pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm
Sat-Sun: 12:30pm-3:30pm, 7pm-11pm

In a city filled with good, classic restaurants, it's hard to narrow it down to a few favorites, but Le Fontaine de Mars is one of those old-world bistros that constantly draws you back in. Once inside, no one would blame you for thinking that nothing has changed in a hundred years—and maybe it hasn't: Pink tablecloths, mirrored walls, and retro floor tiles abound. Keep your order to the tried-and-true classics, good steak-frites or coq au vin with a large glass of red is the way to go here.

La Closerie des Lilas

La Closerie des Lilas

171 Blvd. du Montparnasse, 6th

La Closerie is in the same league as historic cafés like Les Deux Magots and La Palette. And while some might say this Montparnasse standby is past its prime, many insist it’s still very much happening—after all, Hemingway (there’s a handy sign indicating his preferred spot at the bar), Picasso, and Beckett used to hang out here all the time. We recommend springing for a full dinner in the formal main hall. But the brasserie-slash-piano-bar is great for a drink and to get a feel of the place without spending a fortune.

La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde

La Laiterie Sainte Clotilde

64 Rue de Bellechasse, 7th

La Laiterie (translation: the dairy, which is what this tiny spot used to be), is located in a section of the Left Bank that’s particularly popular with tourists—the Musée Rodin and Musée d’Orsay are both within walking distance. Though the staff here will happily explain the dishes (leek soup, poached eggs, steak with new potatoes) in near-perfect english to out-of-towners, a good portion of the patrons are locals, which really speaks volumes for the pared-down, comfort-food-centric menu.

La Rôtisserie

La Rôtisserie

19 Quai de la Tournelle, 5th

It’s casual and cozy here, which is the perfect backdrop for the rural French food on offer. We come for the delicious roast chicken on Sundays; since most restaurants are closed, it can get quite busy, but in a low-key convivial way. Ask for a table by the window overlooking the Seine.

Le 21

Le 21

21 Rue Mazarine, 6th

Power lunchers from the publishing and political worlds tend to pack out the black booths at this discreet, hard-to-find spot (it’s pricey, so an expense account helps). They come for the fresh seafood, and the fact that 21 feels more like a private club than a restaurant.

Le Comptoir du Relais

Le Comptoir du Relais

9 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 6th

If you find yourself with time alone, grab one of the single-occupancy tables outside, which face onto the small square; that said, if you’re saddled with the little ones, this spot is blessedly kid-friendly, too. A bottle of red and the boeuf bourguignon—served with lemon rind, pasta, and pine nuts—is the meal to get here.

Le Duc

Le Duc

243 Blvd. Raspail, 14th

Fresh and wonderful seafood—served in a dining room that feels like the captain's dining room in a ship—justifies the haul to this slightly out of the way institution. The preparations here are blessedly simple and unflashy, which further underlines the consistently excellent quality of their catch.

Le Petit Lutetia

Le Petit Lutetia

107 Rue de Sevres, 7th
Mon-Fri: 12pm-3pm, 7:15pm-11pm
Sat: 12pm-3:30pm, 7:15pm-11:30pm
Sun: 12pm-3:30pm, 7:15pm-11pm

The décor of La Petit Lutetia is that of a classic Paris bistro, with charming mirrored walls, monogrammed dishes, haphazard stacks of newspapers, and too-small tables. While the food is certainly good, you’re here for the people-watching, an endless parade of beautifully outfitted Parisians ducking out for cigarettes between courses and drinking seemingly endless glasses of red wine like water.

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte

Le Relais de l’Entrecôte

101 Blvd. du Montparnasse, 6th
Mon-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 6:45pm-11pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm-3pm, 6:45pm-11pm

You know exactly what to expect at this, kitschy, family-owned establishment and that is the best steak frites in town topped with buttery, herby “secret” sauce. That’s it, and it’s worth lining up for at this is a no-reservations locale. Touristy though it may be, it remains a local’s mainstay, too, as proof of its great quality.

Le Voltaire

Le Voltaire

27 Quai Voltaire, 7th

Situated right on the river, you can opt to take a seat in the front café for lighter fare (coffees, drinks, and classic sandwiches), or in the back, where they serve full meals. We love the grapefruit and avocado salad, but we particularly love the excellent people watching at lunch.

Les Cocottes

Les Cocottes

135 Rue St. Dominique, 7th

The only thing that outshines Les Cocottes’ brilliant use of glass jars and Staub cast-iron cocottes is the menu itself. The restaurant offers a robust offering of salads, soups, and mains that satisfy without breaking the bank. Consider making a reservation because there’s almost always a wait—which isn’t bad, as it’s conveniently located near the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower.

Les Deux Magots

Les Deux Magots

6 Place St. Germain des Prés, 6th

Café culture is one of the many institutions that make Paris such a pleasure to visit. An hour spent sitting outside with a café au lait and a croissant watching the Parisians pass by is time well spent. Les Deux Magots in the heart of Saint-Germain has been one of the preferred literary and creative spots forever, with regulars including Picasso and Hemingway. The menu touches the greatest hits; the croque-madame is especially good, but honestly, a coffee or—hell, you’re on vacation—a glass of champagne outside under the canopy is the way to go.

Les Vins de Bellechasse

Les Vins de Bellechasse

20 Rue de Bellechasse, 7th

In Paris, charming little eateries are a dime a dozen, but this bistro is a true standout. Located just steps from the Musée d’Orsay on the left bank, it serves reasonably priced French fare (duck breast, eggplant, tarte tatin), excellent wine, all against a backdrop of a lipstick-red banquette and a caricature wall. This is a neighborhood spot that gets pretty packed with locals in the evenings, so don’t expect to run into too many tourists.

Little Miss Geisha

Little Miss Geisha

13 Rue de Médicis, 6th
Mon: 7pm-11pm
Tues-Sun: 12pm-11pm

Little Miss Geisha is inspired by Kyoto’s machiyas—traditional wooden townhouses—and while you can get a full lunch, dinner, or Sunday brunch here, we’d argue it’s best for an unhurried afternoon tea. The menu might be simpler than at proper mealtime, but the vibe is more leisurely, which makes up for the restaurant’s slow service. And you can spill out into the Jardin du Luxembourg for a stroll when you’re done.

Marsan par Hélène Darroze

Marsan par Hélène Darroze

4 Rue d’Assas, 6th

Classic and inventive dishes get the two Michelin star treatment at the hands of Landes-born and fourth generation chef Hélène Darroze. With additional restaurants in London and Marrakesh, the menu has a global touch with deeply local roots: Darroze uses area providers, and bases her dishes on what’s seasonally appropriate. Her quiet and restrained approach can be felt in the room’s decor as well, which is hushed and elegant.

Ojii

Ojii

6 Rue Perronet, 7th

Ojii pulls off unforgettable Japanese fine dining in a slinky, ‘70s-inspired boîte. They do white-tablecloth in a sexy way, and it’s great for date night: Spend the night eating caviar tuna nigiri and sipping sake cocktails made with sobacha, yuzu, or plum wine.

Shu

Shu

8 Rue Suger, 6th

Tucked away down a flight of stairs, this cave-like find offers an excellent omakase experience with two menus to choose from. They specialize in kushiagué, which basically means that they specialize in delicious ingredients grilled on sticks, each one prepared differently.

Sugaar

Sugaar

5 Rue Gozlin, 6th
Tues–Sat: 7pm–2am
Sun: 7pm–12am

Basque fine dining restaurant Sugaar is one of the buzziest reservations in Paris, and the candlelit space is equally suited for intimate date nights or fancy gatherings with friends. Start with a round of martinis and fatty tuna pinxos before diving into white asparagus, charcoal-cooked fish, and sheep’s cheese tarts.

Freddy's

Freddy's

54 Rue de Seine, 6th

Freddy’s is in the top five most-visited bar à vins of our Paris-resident friends. The rustic stone walls, pretty chevron floors, artfully arranged bundles of wildflowers in old glass bottles, the museum-quality ceramics you eat off, the casual stools you perch on—it’s intoxicating and feels as Paris as Paris can be. To guarantee a seat, come with one other person, or better yet, come alone with your thoughts for company and the surrounding crowd for entertainment. The selection by the glass is seriously impressive (it’s no surprise the owner, Juan, is also the proprietor of wine shop extraordinaire La Dernière Goutte, around the corner) and the small bites are just what you want to nibble on with a glass of red.

Barthélémy

Barthélémy

51 Rue de Grenelle, 7th

Literally packed to the rafters with cheese, this is one of those tiny little spots you'll smell before you see. Owner Nicole Barthélemy and her team of cheese mongers will always let you sample before you buy—though the recommendations tend to be so spot-on, you arguably won't have to test many. For whatever reason, they don't tolerate photos in the shop—should you whip out your camera, you'll get scolded.

Bellota-Bellota

Bellota-Bellota

18 Rue Jean Nicot, 7th

This cozy little Spanish shop and restaurant serves up great tapas and solid selection of Spanish wine, but their real specialty is the store’s namesake charcuterie. Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, which comes from acorn-finished hogs, is the crème de la crème of cured meats. Their gift baskets, with include a few different varieties, make great gifts for fellow foodies.

Conservatoire des Hémisphères

Conservatoire des Hémisphères

96 rue du Bac, 7th

When you step into this specialty tea boutique, the first thing you notice is how good it smells. Follow your nose: Sniff whole-flower teas in stone goblets, open the bulk jars and take a whiff, and pull out the pretty drawers in the wall, which hold teas with names like jardins suspendus (“hanging gardens”). You can’t sample the teas on site, but the shopkeeper will help you pick something to take home.

Jugetsudo by Maruyama

Jugetsudo by Maruyama

95 Rue de Seine, 6th

Stalks of bamboo dangle from the ceiling like hundreds of wind-chimes at this Saint-Germain-des-Prés spot, which is the first outpost outside of Japan for the historic, 19th-century teahouse, Jugetsedo. Upstairs, you can sample any number of green tees, from earthy Sencha, to nutty Genmaicha, to creamy Macha. In the cellar-like basement, you can participate in a full, uber-traditional tea service.

Le Bonbon au Palais

Le Bonbon au Palais

19 Rue Monge, 5th

Styled to look like a 1950s classroom, Georges Marques’s shop offers hundreds of candies sourced from all over France. It’s kind of an amazing way to take a geography lesson, really, particularly because Georges is happy to lead willing students on a tour of the country’s various candy-producing zones. Everything—from the candied fruits to pastilles to calissons to chocolate—is arranged in old-fashioned apothecary jars.

Marché Monge

Marché Monge

Place Monge, 5th
Wed: 7am-2:30pm
Fri: 7am-2:30pm
Sun: 7am-3pm

Complete with cobblestone streets, a bubbling fountain, stands full of fresh flowers, and heaps of fresh bread, cheese, and charcuterie, Marché Monge is pretty much the quintessential Parisian market. Jardin des Plantes is only a few blocks away, so it's a great pit stop before an afternoon of picnicking.

Marché Raspail

Marché Raspail

Blvd. Raspail, between Rue du Cherche-Midi & Rue de Rennes, 6th
Tues: 7am-2:30pm
Fri: 7am-2:30pm
Sun: 9am-3pm

With more than 150 stalls, this is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe, and one any food lover will not want to miss. Beyond fresh veggies, fruits, eggs, and cheese, there are plenty of vendors who sell premade meals, perfect for an impromptu picnic. It happens three times a week.

Marché Saxe-Breteuil

Marché Saxe-Breteuil

37-31 Ave. de Saxe, 7th
Thurs: 7am-1:30pm
Sat: 7am-2:30pm

With the Eiffel Tower as a stunning backdrop, this market focuses on produce and fresh seafood. There are also stands for escargots, meat, eggs, and a smattering of home goods.

Poilâne

Poilâne

8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th

This mini-chainlet is now five Paris locations strong (with an outpost in London), which makes a lot of sense: The bread really is distinguishably excellent, which in a place like Paris, says a lot. Though the sourdough loaves fly off the shelves, we love their nut breads—along with the fact that you can purchase by the half or quarter loaf if you can't take down the entire thing.

Arty Dandy

Arty Dandy

1 Rue de Furstemberg, 6th
Mon-Sat: 11am-1pm, 2pm-7pm
Sun: 1pm-7pm

With few exceptions, almost everything that lines the Crayola-colored shelves here rings in at under a hundred euros, whether it's backpacks, patterned wallets, or unique candles.

Aurélie Bidermann

Aurélie Bidermann

55 Bis Rue des St. Pères, 6th

Aurélie Bidermann is cool, a fact that's readily apparent in the design of her bright, turquoise-tile-accented shop. You'll find her entire line—including plenty of the braided cord bracelets for which she's now famous—plus horn necklaces, painted enamel earrings shaped like leaves, and tasseled pendants.

Buly 1803

Buly 1803

6 Rue Bonaparte, 6th

The husband-and-wife team behind revamped cosmetics line Buly added a couple degrees of fantasy when furnishing their flagship shop—modeled after a nineteenth-century apothecary—with Tuscan tiled floors, Italian marble counters, intricately carved wooden cupboards, and prettily painted beams. And then there are the products: alcohol-free scents and modern, paraben-free formulations, beautifully packaged in old-fashioned vials and glass jars. Whether you’re in the market or not, this shop is a treat just to look at.

goodJo

goodJo

8 Rue Dupuytren, 6th

goodJo’s collection of vintage luxury fashion is eclectic in the best way (you might find beautifully constructed Saint Laurent blazers in colorful prints and silk Escada blouses with exquisite details). If you don’t see what you’re looking for, ask; their collection is expansive and only so much fits in the store at a time.

Hermès

Hermès

17 Rue de Sèvres, 6th

Inconceivable as it may sound, we like Hermès’ Left Bank outpost even more than the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré original. Occupying a 1935 Art Deco landmark, which at one time was a swimming pool (the mosaic tile floor remains), this location is a complete brand departure. Archways made from undulating latticed wood reach toward the skylights, and the displays are spare. Beyond the usual suspects of scarves, ties, watches, and saddlery, the space includes an in-house café as well.

L/UNIFORM

L/UNIFORM

1 Quai Voltaire, 7th

From cofounder Jeanne Signoles comes this must-have bag brand—done in canvas, and with a utilitarian, slightly nautical aesthetic. It’s hard not to fall for the simplicity of the concept: Choose the color for the bag, trims, and handles and add your initials in Futura. Stop by the sleek space to specify your bag, suitcase, tote, or pencil case.

Le Bon Marché

Le Bon Marché

22 Rue de Sèvres, 7th
Mon-Sat: 10am-7:45pm
Sun: 11am-7:45pm

Though it's often (mistakenly) credited as being the first department store, there's no doubt that Le Bon Marché's founders, Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut, were pioneers, particularly in a culture that so adamantly prizes specialty stores. Launched in 1838 as an extension of the Boucicaut's single market stall, it became a fixed-price department store in 1850 (before that, you would barter), moving into its sweeping, Art Deco home in 1867. While it's been expanded several times since (and now belongs to LVMH), it's still inarguably one of the most beautiful, large-scale shops in existence. Whether you're looking for Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Maje, or Iro, it's likely here: Along with lingerie, kids clothing, furniture, household essentials, and shoes and bags. The food hall, La Grande Épicerie, is pretty insane, offering a rich array of specialty products, from Fauchon macarons to Baltic smoked fish. Many visitors concentrate their buying power here in order to hit the spending level required for VAT.

Librairie Alain Brieux

Librairie Alain Brieux

48 Rue Jacob, 6th

A bookshop and antiquarian for over a century, Librairie Alain Brieux specializes in rare scientific and sometimes esoteric titles, though the real allure is its cabinet-of-curiosities vibe. The windows and interior displays are continually refreshed with weird and wonderful assortments of vintage anatomical models, glass eyes, unusual toys, and the like.

Maison Martin Margiela

Maison Martin Margiela

13 Rue de Grenelle, 7th

Nothing Martin Margiela turns out is particularly basic, but thanks to a muted palette and exquisite tailoring, everything is supremely wearable. The Belgian designer’s boots are always classic (if cerebral), and his jewelry is pretty cool, too. MM6, Maison Martin Margiela’s more reasonably priced line, is located in Galeries Lafayette.

Michele Aragon

Michele Aragon

21 Rue Jacob, 6th

Wander into antique dealer Michele Aragon’s eponymous shop, and you might walk out with a pair of Provencal bubbled-glass cups, a full set of handmade tableware, or a sofa fashioned from kilim rugs.

Shakespeare and Company

Shakespeare and Company

37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 5th
Mon-Sat: 10am-8pm
Sun: 12pm-7pm

This just might be the best bookstore in the world. It has the vibe of a warren-like country home rather than a straightforward shop. Books are piled haphazardly from floor to ceiling (many of which are in English), there are benches dotted here and there, and it's staffed mostly by college kids who are full of great recommendations. It’s also home to a rich literary history—over the years, Shakespeare and Company has played host to famous American writers like Allen Ginsberg, Ernest Hemingway, William Burroughs, and William Styron. Founder George Whitman (the shop is now run by his daughter, Sylvia) famously opened up the shop’s cozy benches and couches to artists and writers who needed a place to stay. Many of these drifting creatives—or tumbleweeds, as they became known—went on to become important literary figures in their own right.

Trudon

Trudon

78 Rue de Seine, 6th
Mon: 11am-7pm
Tues-Sat: 10:30am-7:30pm

In 1634, grocer and wax merchant Claude Trudon opened a store on Rue St. Honoré—and Trudon has been lighting the city’s palaces and homes ever since. Thanks to their superlative wax and rigorous candle-making process, the scented pillars burn for hours—without ever sputtering or smoking. They’re not cheap—after all, as company lore would have it, Napoleon’s only gift to his newborn son was a Trudon candle encrusted with three pieces of gold—but they are exquisite. The Paris boutique, complete with a rainbow wall of tapers, busts cast in wax, and the full expression of fragrances, shouldn’t be missed.

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain

261 Blvd. Raspail, 14th

The Foundation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain, situated in a Jean Nouvel-designed glass building and fronted by a soaring garden wall, houses an important—and growing—contemporary art collection. Don’t miss their Nomadic Nights, when the Foundation invites contemporary artists to host evenings of concerts, screenings, lectures, and performances.

Jardin du Luxembourg

Jardin du Luxembourg

15 Rue de Vaugirard, 6th

One of the prettiest and most popular parks in Paris still feels fairly local. Less traversed by tourists than the Tuileries and with more to do, the Jardin du Luxembourg is where you’ll catch Parisians soaking up the sun in front of the palace, playing chess at public tables, hitting balls on the tennis courts, and challenging one another to lively games of pétanque. And this park really shines when it comes to occupying little kids: Children can sail model boats in the fountains, watch shows at the puppet theatre, or ride donkeys on the vintage carousel. The park sits on the border of the Latin quarter and Saint-Germain—both worth a walk through, but if you have to pick, you should prioritize the latter.

Les Catacombes de Paris

Les Catacombes de Paris

1 Ave. of Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 14th

When a handful of city cemeteries were closed in the 18th and 19th centuries because they were overflowing and posed a threat to public health, the bodies of more than six million Parisians were relocated to a former quarry below the city. What's even gnarlier is that bones and skulls were used to create its walls. You can tour the labrynth-like ossuary—and theoretically visit the remains of notables like Rabelais and Robespierre—but this is not for the claustrophic, and probably not for kids.

Montparnasse Observation Deck

Montparnasse Observation Deck

33 Av. du Maine, 15th

There’s only one real reason to visit Paris’s only skyscraper: The view from the top, which is arguably better than the view from the Eiffel Tower. (From Montparnasse, you can actually see the Eiffel Tower—and you don’t see Montparnasse.)

Musée d’Orsay

Musée d’Orsay

5 Quai Anatole, 7th
Tues-Wed: 9.30am-6pm
Thurs: 9:30am-9:45pm
Fri-Sun: 9.30am-6pm

Sited in the former Gare d'Orsay, a soaring, glass-ceilinged Beaux-Arts railway station built in the late 19th-century, the permanent collection here spans from neoclassicism to art nouveau. The big draw, though, is the museum's deep collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art, which includes works by Monet, Manet, Renoir, Degas, Van Gogh, Seurat, and more.

Musée Rodin

Musée Rodin

79 Rue de Varenne, 7th

Auguste Rodin donated his complete collection—including the pieces for which he's most famous like The Thinker and The Gates of Hell—to France so long as they promised to transform the very stately Hôtel Biron, which was his workshop from 1908 on, into a museum. There are thousands of his sculptures on-site, in both the museum's halls and scattered throughout the surrounding gardens, along with highlights from his personal art collection (Monet, Van Gogh, Renoir, and Camille Claudel—who was his mistress, his student, and a great sculptor in her own right).

Panthéon

Panthéon

Place du Panthéon, 5th

Modeled after the Pantheon in Rome, this giant mausoleum houses the remains of some of Paris's most famous citizens: Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Jean Monnet, Marie and Pierre Curie, Emile Zola, and as of 2002, Alexandre Dumas. And it was under the central dome that Léon Foucault constructed his pendulum to demonstrate the rotation of the earth (the original now lives in the Musée des Arts et Métiers). In 2007, Jacques Chirac dedicated a plaque in The Pantheon to the thousands of French citizens who harbored Jews during the German occupation, protecting them from concentration camp internment.

Jeanne Casimir

Jeanne Casimir

Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche, 24 Rue de Sèvres, 7th

If you’re lucky enough to land an in-person appointment with face massage specialist Jeanne Casimir, you’ll leave with visibly lifted and invigorated skin. Casimir takes up residency at the Bon Marché for a week at a time, and she makes house calls. If you can’t meet her IRL, enroll in her self-massage class, which takes place online.

Rasa Yoga

Rasa Yoga

21 Rue St. Jacques, 5th
Mon-Fri: 7:30am-8:30pm
Sat-Sun: 9am-6:30pm

Located in a quiet, sun-kissed courtyard, Rasa Yoga is wonderfully unintimidating—even if you don't speak a lick of French. It offers a comprehensive calendar of styles and levels, along with a deep roster of spa treatments from all around the world.

Studio Rituel

Studio Rituel

16 Rue de la Grande Chaumiere, 6th
Mon-Thurs: 8am-8pm
Fri: 8am-7pm
Sat: 8am-3pm
Sun: 9am-3pm

Yoga, Gyrotonic, Reformer Pilates, and Xtend Barre all under one roof make Studio Rituel a popular wellness destination. And the location, a stone’s throw from the Luxembourg Gardens, doesn’t hurt. The Gyrotonic classes, which involve fluid movement and targeted stretches utilizing the seven natural elements of spinal movement, are particularly helpful if you plan to do a lot of walking. As the class ramps up, these stretches are more like a dance, and over time they dramatically increase your flexibility. The studio also offers holistic treatments like massage and reflexology.

La Colombe

La Colombe

270 Lafayette, Soho
Mon-Fri: 7:30am-6:30pm
Sat-Sun: 8:30am-6:30pm

With cafés in four major cities, La Colombe is looking to build a little empire—which makes total sense. The in-house beans are some of New York City's best, and the café itself is serene and beautiful. Locations vary in size (some have tables where you could totally pull out a laptop), and you can usually find a place to at least perch for a bit.

Marlton Hotel Espresso Bar

Marlton Hotel Espresso Bar

5 W. 8th St., Greenwich Village

The gorgeous Marlton Hotel lobby happens to be home to a great espresso bar. Here, you'll find a simple but perfectly executed offering of coffee drinks, teas, and snacks. While tables tend to go fast, you can usually grab a couch or armchair.

Happy Bones

Happy Bones

394 Broome St., Nolita
Permanently Closed

Here's the thing: Happy Bones is actually tiny, but because most people come for to-go drinks, the tables are almost always empty. The two guys who run this place keep the menu and the décor blessedly simple, so you're guaranteed both a great cup of coffee and a peaceful atmosphere every time.

The Vale Collective

The Vale Collective

113 N. 7th St., Gowanus
Permanently Closed

Vale can't be described as any one thing since it is a perky boutique, art gallery, coffee shop, and backyard garden all in one. What's really special though, is that it does all four things really well, particularly the coffee shop part. Grab a cup of Birch Coffee and pick between a street-facing window seat or the aforementioned garden (the Wi-Fi totally holds up back there).

Culture Espresso

Culture Espresso

72 W. 38th St., Times Square

The garment district isn’t exactly known for a stellar specialty coffee scene, so the fact that there are three excellent options mere blocks from each other is pretty great. Culture Espresso is the original, but it’s snug, which means you might have to wait for a seat. The newer and significantly bigger Culture 36 is ideal for getting stuff done, if you don’t mind the semi-loud music (Culture 307 is also an option). All three locations serve Culture's famous house-baked chocolate chip cookies (they sell out fast, so come on the earlier side).

Little Skips

Little Skips

941 Willoughby Ave., Bushwick
Permanently Closed

At this point, Brooklyn can probably give Seattle a run for its money when it comes to number of coffee shops per capita, and Little Skips is easily one of the best. It's especially great for those who like semi-loud background music since it's an undeniable part of the hipster package. Thai iced tea—an equally potent alternative to a latte—is on the menu in addition to all the usual suspects if you’re feeling adventurous. Fair warning: outlets are a limited commodity here so come fully charged just in case. The second outpost is on Myrtle Avenue.

Citizens of Gramercy

Citizens of Gramercy

362 2nd Ave., Gramercy
Mon-Fri: 7:30am-6pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-6pm

Like so many of the city’s best new cafés, this Gramercy spot was opened by a team of Aussies in a neighborhood that could do with a couple more stellar cafés (there’s another in Chelsea). The food skews healthy, and we love the all-day breakfast—especially the smoked salmon eggs, which come with a roasted beet labneh. The coffee house scene transitions to wine and cocktails at night, so after working for a few hours during the day, you won’t have to go far to unwind with a different sort of beverage.

Devoción

Devoción

69 Grand St., Williamsburg
Mon-Fri: 7am-7pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-7pm

A massive roaster occupies the front half of this vast Williamsburg café, adding an industrial vibe to this otherwise cheerful, sunlight-flooded brick space near the East River. Arrive early to snag a seat (this is freelancer HQ for the surrounding blocks, and tables go quickly), but once you’re in, there’s strong Wi-Fi and stronger coffee. We especially appreciate the daily newspapers and magazines available for catching up on the news the old-school way.

Dweebs

Dweebs

1434 Dekalb Ave., Bushwick
Mon-Fri: 7am-5pm
Sat-Sun: 7:30am-5pm

In this part of Bushwick, Dweebs (on the corner of Dekalb and Wilson) acts as the neighborhood’s communal office, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a small, flower-filled patio to draw in the area’s creative minds. There are outlets everywhere and a printer that actually works. And as any local will tell you: The bagels and coffee are the best you’ll find off the Jefferson L train stop. Photo courtesy of Bridget Kenny.

The Hoxton

The Hoxton

97 Wythe Ave., Williamsburg

Communal tables, rich velvet sofas (nab a seat by the fire), dependable Wi-Fi, and floods of natural light make the Hoxton a freelancer’s dream. As for the guest rooms, they are labeled as “cozy” or “roomy.” But size really doesn’t matter when you can lie in an insanely comfortable bed piled with pillows and stare at the Manhattan skyline (while devouring the chia puddings delivered every morning). An unexpected delight was the dining scene: The food at the Hoxton's restaurants is absolutely top-notch. You cannot go wrong with the blistered chicken and a bowl of ridiculously indulgent cacio e pepe with a side of roasted cauliflower, eaten sprawled out in the plush, textural lobby with a friend as we did—made better only by a few glasses of Beaujolais.

Deus Ex Machina

Deus Ex Machina

1001 Venice Blvd., Venice

It's easy to miss Deus when driving down Lincoln Boulevard as it looks like a garage—albeit a pretty slick one—rather than a sweet coffee shop. This is fitting, since you can buy a custom-made motorcycle, a leather jacket, and a latte in one fell swoop. Seating is limited, but the outdoor communal table and indoor charmingly lived-in couch, coupled with an awesome soundtrack, get the job done.

LAMILL Coffee

LAMILL Coffee

1636 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake
Sun-Thurs: 7am-10pm
Fri-Sat: 7am-11pm

It's fitting that LAMILL is set up on Silver Lake Boulevard, i.e., the epicenter of LA's freelance culture. Grab a table in the dining room, which, with its leather banquette, artsy wallpaper, and glitzy chandeliers, looks like it belongs to a fancy restaurant rather than a coffee shop. There's a full menu of toasts, soups, and salads as well as an oft-replenished fresh pastry case. Baked goods and décor aside, the quality of the coffee (roasted on-site) comes first. Stop by the tiny gift shop next door if you're in need of a last-minute hostess gift.

Brentwood Country Mart

Brentwood Country Mart

225 26th St., Brentwood

This 1950s old-time country mart got a renovation and restoration about a decade ago. Besides being home to goop Brentwood, there are a spate of other great boutiques (Jenni Kayne, Turpan, Broken English, adorable kids store Poppy). It also wins huge points with little ones for its interior food court, where you'll find the world's best chicken (Reddi Chick), burgers (Barney's), and tacos (Frida). There's also an old-school candy shop (Edelweiss), an ice cream parlor (Sweet Rose Ice Cream), a bookstore (Diesel), a toy store (Toy Crazy), and a mini carousel. We, however are addicted to the delicious salads and seared salmon at Farmshop. Always buzzing at lunch, the space grows quiet in the early afternoon and is a hidden gem for for a relaxed glass of wine and, in the absence of a friend, your computer for company as you blast through a stuffed inbox.

Intelligentsia

Intelligentsia

3922 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake

Intelligentsia is really the quintessential hipster LA coffee shop—and we get why. Tables and bar seats are usually available at all the well-designed locations, and there's a smattering of great baked goods as well as some home goods for sale. At both the Venice and Silver Lake locations, the outlets are as abundant as the man buns. There's also an outpost in Pasadena.

Dinosaur Coffee

Dinosaur Coffee

4334 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake

Dinosaur distinguishes itself from a bounty of good coffee in the neighborhood with its design-minded space. Designed by MASS Architects, everything about it is well-considered, from the Scandinavian stools to the fin-shaped sculpture above the counter, which also displays the menu. The attention to detail also spills over into the coffee, which is fully up to Silver Lake hipster standards.

Bar Bandini

Bar Bandini

2150 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park
Mon-Thurs: 4pm-2am
Fri-Sun: 3pm-2am

Judging by the droves of locals who come out to newly opened Bar Bandini on a nightly basis, the dimly lit, refreshingly underdesigned spot met a very obvious need for a chill—but just romantic enough—neighborhood watering hole. The owners earned their stripes working in the food industry in both NYC and LA and wanted to focus on all-natural and organic wines, which they source almost exclusively in-state and serve on tap (the craft beer selection is also worth exploring). It's all supported by a menu of bar snacks (the Sicilian olives are bomb) and small plates of cured meats and local cheeses.

Alfred Tea Room

Alfred Tea Room

705 N. Alfred St., West Hollywood

Regulars have always loved Alfred’s coffee shops for their design-conscious interiors, but the tea room (around the corner from Moon Juice on Melrose Place) is downright indulgent, aesthetically speaking. The teensy space is tiled floor-to-ceiling in a soothing pink, with gold finishes and one of Alfred’s signature cheeky neon signs, explaining “tea, yes! you, maybe!” The menu here specializes in tea; in addition to matcha (which you get at any Alfred location), there’s a lengthy list of loose-leaf and several flavors of boba, which are made from scratch. P.S. Coffee enthusiasts, the original location with a full coffee menu is just across the street.

La Colombe

La Colombe

3900 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake
Mon-Fri: 6:30am-7pm
Sat-Sun: 7am-7pm

LA has plenty of places that can keep caffeine cravings in check, but that doesn’t mean we weren’t psyched when Philly staple La Colombe finally made it west. It occupies what used to be Café Casbah at Sunset Junction, but the space has been completely reimagined. The café is bookended by two open-air areas: The back is sheltered and quiet for those looking to settle in for the long haul; the front overlooks the main drag and is filled with tree-trunk-like stools and tables perfect for people-watching. Breaking the LA trend of serving everything in some kind of ceramic, the coffee is served in porcelain cups and saucers. If you’re in a rush, the East Coast transplant has you covered: The fridge inside is packed with cold-press.

Standing Egg Coffee

Standing Egg Coffee

2833 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake
Mon-Fri: 7am-5pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-5pm

Not everyone likes drip coffee, and a good espresso-based brew is not something to be taken for granted. Standing Egg, one of the new cafés in Silver Lake, gets it. The space is sparse—polished stone walls and floors with a few plants in the corners. The baristas are enthusiastic, always keen to make your coffee just as you like it (and like it we do). The gluten-free doughnuts are excellent, the complimentary water is always ice-cold, and the old-school record player in the corner plays the Rolling Stones at 7 a.m. daily.

The Semi-Tropic

The Semi-Tropic

1412 Glendale Blvd., Echo Park

By day, this Echo Park hangout is a café where patrons curl up on leather sofas with books and laptops, sipping coffee and ordering salads packed with veggies and grains or comforting bowls of tomato soup with toasted sourdough. Once early evening hits, though, it transforms into a jam-packed bar and restaurant, where locals stop in for the popular happy hour and huge cocktail list.

Stories

Stories

1716 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park

Stories is Echo Park’s much-loved local bookstore, but what most people don’t realize is that behind all the books is a tiny café (and a good one, at that). We love escaping here for the quiet—the stacks and stacks of haphazardly arranged tomes soak up all the street noise. The tables are filled with other studious folks tapping away on computers or reading through screenplays, so there’s not much chatter. You can sit here for hours munching through the pastry selection without being disturbed.

Daylesford Pimlico

Daylesford Pimlico

44B Pimlico Rd., Pimlico
Mon-Sat: 8am-8pm
Sun: 10am-4pm

You can be sure that everything you eat at this café is organic and free from any nasty chemicals, because everything from the produce to the dairy to the breads and the meat here is sourced from the Daylesford farms in the Cotswolds and Staffordshire. And while there are sugary baked treats and the like to be had here, there are also cold-pressed juices, bone broths, and a great array of salads on offer for those in the market for a healthier pick-me-up. There are also locations in Marylebone and Notting Hill, each one a perfect spot if you're looking for some lunch or a cozy space to sit and catch up on some work.

Ham Yard Hotel

Ham Yard Hotel

1 Ham Yard, Soho

The Firmdale group has a strong hold on the hospitality scene in London, and this Soho venture is its splashiest yet, with a bowling alley, a theater, and a "village square" of cool shops like Dinosaur Designs and Frescobol Carioca. The interiors are still in owner Kit Kemp’s signature eclectic and colorful but totally English style, and the high tea here is just as fun and quintessential as at the other locations. (On weekdays, the cozy corner seats in the bar are a sublime under-the-radar spot to catch up on emails.) Besides the Soho location, the other big draw is that every single room and suite boasts floor-to-ceiling windows with stunning city views.

One Hundred Shoreditch

One Hundred Shoreditch

100 Shoreditch High St., Shoreditch

On any given weekday, the lobby here is packed with freelancers perched on every couch and at every communal table in the sprawling, lo-fi industrial space. It makes sense that this would be one of the area's main hubs of activity: There's Wi-Fi on tap, a coffee and snack bar, cold-pressed juices out the door at the hotel's own juice and mylk bar, and a small but well-selected menu of breakfast and lunch items from the hotel restaurant. Meanwhile, upstairs, the rooms, designed by Barber & Osgerby's Universal Design Studio, are decked out in vintage furniture with a slightly industrial edge. Slightly spare, they're planned for travelers who plan to spend more time exploring the city than indoors.

Shoreditch Grind

Shoreditch Grind

213 Old St., Shoreditch
Mon-Thu: 7am-11pm
Fri: 7am-1am
Sat: 8am-1am
Sun: 9am-7pm

In a city of a million coffee shops, Shoreditch Grind, the original of what is now a few locations around the city, gets it just right. Perched on the highly trafficked Old Street roundabout, it’s pounded daily by commuters, bankers, and start-up employees—and the menu appeals to all of them. The coffee is roasted at the Shoreditch Grind roaster around the corner, and the interior is industrial-cool with subway-tiled walls and big windows overlooking the hustle. The breakfast is good—acai bowls, scrambled eggs, and smoked salmon, but the lattes (matcha, turmeric, good old coffee) are even better.

Bodyism

Bodyism

222-224 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill
Mon-Thurs: 7am-8pm
Fri-Sun: 8am-6pm

The positive affirmations emblazoned on the windows catch your eye first. Then the fluttering pieces of paper taped to the doorframe with words like “gratitude,” “love,” and “forgiveness” (pull off what you need—the equivalent of a wellness fortune cookie, without the cookie) lure you in. Through the Aussie-style café (an amazing spot for a turmeric latte or to plow through emails), down the stairs is Bodyism, a wellness-mecca-meets-private-members’-club. Unlike other private gyms, there isn’t a treadmill in sight; instead, Bodyism is focused on personal training and classes, teaching clients to be kind to themselves with a more low-impact routine than the often punishing cardio regimes found elsewhere. The ballet, yoga, Pilates, and boxing are taught—for the most part—by former athletes and everyone here remembers your name.

Bar at the Chiltern Firehouse

Bar at the Chiltern Firehouse

1 Chiltern St., Marylebone

Marylebone is full of bakeries, bookshops, and quiet residential streets, despite its proximity to bustling Oxford Street. One of our favorite stops is the bar at the Chiltern Firehouse, which feels almost like spending time in a garden (while being inside). Nearly all the seats and sofas are embellished with colorful florals, and dozens of trailing green plants form a cornice around the room. Afternoon tea is a special treat—a silver tea tray stacked with chocolate and coffee éclairs is presented by the stylishly attired staff. It’s a great place to counteract a midday slump, and for the freelancers out there, to get some work done.

11 Cadogan Gardens

11 Cadogan Gardens

11 Cadogan Gardens, Chelsea

Near the posh shopping area of Sloane Square and occupying a series of Victorian townhouses, this small hotel in Chelsea offers some truly attractive communal areas. And you don’t have to be a guest to use them. There’s a small, clubby bar full of leather chairs and dark, moody lighting for an early-evening drink (or to escape the London drizzle). Our favorite spot, though, is the library. Dreamily quiet, its walls lined with old books and its tables stacked with newspapers, it’s a proper oasis for the freelancer or aspiring novelist—especially with a pot (and then another) of English breakfast tea. For those looking to sleepover, guestrooms are a lesson in English elegance, many with roomy, four-poster beds and picturesque views of the leafy park on the adjacent quiet square.

The Hoxton Paris

The Hoxton Paris

30-32 Rue du Sentier, 2nd

As in the Hoxton outposts in Amsterdam, Brooklyn, and London, the lobby here is massive. And in this case, it's also built into a courtyard. Velvet sofas, natural light, and gorgeous decorative features (like a 300-year-old spiral staircase) make for an absurdly pleasant place to spend a few hours. For a change of scene, move on to the Hoxton’s Jacques Bar and its floor-to-ceiling windows that look directly onto the rooftops of Paris. The Moroccan-influenced cocktail list includes the Postcard from Marrakech, made of orange blossom and gin—it tastes like summer in a glass.

Café Lomi

Café Lomi

3 Rue Marcadet, 18th
Mon-Fri: 8am-6pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-7pm

Café Lomi is a bit out of the way, deep in the Goutte d’Or neighborhood of the 18th arrondissement. But the lack of distraction means it’s a great spot to buckle down, drink endless cappuccinos (it has its own roaster), down one of the light-as-air croissants, and get some work done. The interior is a whimsical mix of antique trunks that act as stand-ins for tables, exposed redbrick walls, and lots of potted green plants. We love the high ceilings and huge windows that combat Paris’s often cloudy days.

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