Marché des Enfants Rouges

Rue Sainte-Anne in the 1st is the city’s version of Little Tokyo: There’s a seemingly endless row of noodle shops and small Japanese joints. Of all the options, Kunitoraya is our favorite, thanks to its multi-varied udons. There’s a more upscale location around the corner on rue Villedo, but this outpost is more casual and rarely requires a wait.

Named for an infamous shipwreck—the boat was found intact, including its stores of liquor, though the crew had vanished—Le Mary Celeste got a lot of ink in the press when it opened: The young team behind this restaurant in the 3rd is the same one behind taqueria Candelaria. Like its sister restaurant, Le Mary Celeste has a drinks menu that's long and formidable, while the food menu is a bit more succinct. It’s all about oysters and other small plates that are intended to be shared. Though it does take reservations, it's just as easy to grab a seat at the bar.

When American couple Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian moved to Paris, they didn’t start with a restaurant: Instead, they cultivated their reputation through a series of under-the-radar dinner party-style seatings hosted out of their apartment. Called Hidden Kitchen, you could only land a reservation by booking online. The concept—and cooking—was so popular, the duo opened a permanent location, called Verjus, in 2010, situated in a small passageway across from the Palais Royal. It’s distinctly New American and it’s delicious. If you can’t stomach the prices (the tasting menu is 98 euros), hit the bar à vins next door.

While it’s now a few years old—and has been expanded from its original, 16-seat footprint—it’s still hard to get through the door at Spring. Chicago-native Daniel Rose’s prix-fixe fare, which is served out of the large open kitchen, is reliably excellent and continues to justify the hype. In fact, there’s no actual menu: In their words, they will just make you dinner, all sourced from the Places des Fêtes.

The chefs behind Septime seem to understand that you can’t fail when you start with the best fresh ingredients. This isn’t to say that the cool, pared-back space isn’t innovative—it just isn’t flashy.

Parisian dining has a reputation for being a little stodgy at times, what with the ubiquitous gilded interiors and price fixe-only menu—but at Le Servan in the 11th, you’ll find neither. Instead, chef Tatiana Levha, and her sister, Katia, offer up a short but sweet a la carte menu of Asian-inspired classics that changes pretty much daily. As for decor, it’s all neutral, with a brass-top bar. Walk-ins fare well at lunch, but make a reservation for dinner.

Top-quality sushi and sashimi is served alongside little else at this six-table spot on lle Saint-Louis. It’s tiny, so reservations are essential.

Nantes-born Gregory Marchand, who cooked under both Jamie Oliver and Danny Meyer (he earned his nickname “Frenchie” while cooking with Oliver), offers a subtle worldly perspective on classic French cooking via a tiny set menu (145 euros per person). Reservations are hard to get, though Marchand’s walk-in-only venture, Frenchie bar à vins, is an option should you fail to land a table, and there’s also his Italian restaurant down the street, Altro Frenchie.

Anne-Sophie Pic’s flagship restaurant in Valence has three Michelin stars, and the world expects La Dame de Pic to land the same rating. (It currently has one star, which it won in 2024.) Pic is ultra-talented, and her food feels rare and elegant. The high-concept menu here revolves around fragrance profiles—Pic partnered with Phillip Bousseton, the nose from Takasago—which makes for an unusual and unabashedly sensual experience.

The chef’s daily market visits direct the brief all-organic, Italian-inflected menu at this fittingly tiny restaurant (only 15 seats). Expect dishes like French beans with octopus and wild mushroom spaghetti.

The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table.

Yves Camdeborde was so busy at his popular Left Bank restaurant, Le Comptoir, that he opted to accommodate the overflow by opening a tiny bar à vin next door. Though it’s standing room only, which is quite common in Paris, the delicious Béarnais-style small plates are worth tempting discomfort. We promise it’s a pleasant experience.

It takes nerve (and talent) for an American to take a French concept and re-create it for a famously hard-to-please Parisian audience. In chef Jody Williams's case, her French-inspired wine bar, Buvette, has been embraced with open arms. She tested the concept in New York first—there is a much-loved West Village outpost—and exported her gastrothèque to Paris, to rave reviews. In this romantic, perfectly Parisian little wine bar, you can expect a wonderful cocktail and wine list, and a petite menu of small versions of dishes like coq au vin, moules, and tartines. They also serve several local, seasonal salads—good ones are still hard to find in many traditional French restaurants.

The menu is plucked directly out of Southeast China, showcasing picks like wok-fried pigeon, steamed sea scallops with vermicelli, and perfect salmon, served with shredded fruit. The dining room is gilded, ornate, and luxe, which is exactly what you’d expect from the Shangri-La Hotel.

While it's nearly impossible to get a reservation at Septime—and a bar stool at the wine bar is hard to come by, too—you’ll probably have better luck at the owners' venture, Clamato, a seafood-centric joint that doesn't take reservations. Also, it’s open all day on Saturday and Sunday, which is a rarity in Paris.

Classic and inventive dishes get the two Michelin star treatment at the hands of Landes-born and fourth generation chef Hélène Darroze. With additional restaurants in London and Marrakesh, the menu has a global touch with deeply local roots: Darroze uses area providers, and bases her dishes on what’s seasonally appropriate. Her quiet and restrained approach can be felt in the room’s decor as well, which is hushed and elegant.

This quaint little restaurant serves excellent French food—cassoulet, steak tartare, and chocolate cake—in an unstuffy Art Nouveau dining room. The adjoining shop, complete with ham hocks hanging from the rafters, has a killer selection of French wines, cheeses, and other specialty items.

This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.

In a city filled with good, classic restaurants, it's hard to narrow it down to a few favorites, but Le Fontaine de Mars is one of those old-world bistros that constantly draws you back in. Once inside, no one would blame you for thinking that nothing has changed in a hundred years—and maybe it hasn't: Pink tablecloths, mirrored walls, and retro floor tiles abound. Keep your order to the tried-and-true classics, good steak-frites or coq au vin with a large glass of red is the way to go here.

If you've overindulged on steak-frites and can't handle the thought of another buttery sole meunière, eschew the delicious but heavy bistro classics for some Mediterranean at Bonhomie. A café meets cocktail bar meets restaurant near the chic Marais district, sitting on a royal-blue leather stool in the beautiful, modern, white-and-gold interior feels like a breath of fresh air. The menu leans on Moroccan influences with a former Frenchie chef at the helm—dishes like minty chickpeas and labneh and harissa lamb with tabbouleh take center stage. If you happen to pass by at an odd afternoon hour, a coupe de champagne at the long marble bar is the way to go.

Le Dauphin is immediately next door to its sister restaurant, Le Chateaubriand. Locals hover around the marbled bar (there are only a handful of tables) for well-priced—though complex—small plates and surprisingly affordable wine.

This first-come-first-serve wine bar is a tough seat for good reason: The small plates are crafted from superb ingredients, and the wine list is reasonably priced. Closed on weekends, you can usually snag a spot in the first wave by going early in the week, and arriving 20 minutes before the 7pm opening.

While you can take your low-sulfite wine to go at this former shoe repair shop, you can also grab a seat at the bar and snack while you drink: Sausages, anchovies, and cheese all get the Septime treatment here.

Tucked away beneath its parent restaurant upstairs (the excellent, prix-fixe Verjus) this more casual bar à vin lives in a cool vaulted cave and serves innovative small plates. Bonus: The wine list is top notch.

For over 40 years, Michel Pierre has transformed medicinal plants into herbal infusions, nutritional supplements, essential oils, and cosmetics. The staff will prescribe based on your ailments, though there's plenty of lovely stuff here that is more preventative then curative.

Though it's often (mistakenly) credited as being the first department store, there's no doubt that Le Bon Marché's founders, Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut, were pioneers, particularly in a culture that so adamantly prizes specialty stores. Launched in 1838 as an extension of the Boucicaut's single market stall, it became a fixed-price department store in 1850 (before that, you would barter), moving into its sweeping, Art Deco home in 1867. While it's been expanded several times since (and now belongs to LVMH), it's still inarguably one of the most beautiful, large-scale shops in existence. Whether you're looking for Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Maje, or Iro, it's likely here: Along with lingerie, kids clothing, furniture, household essentials, and shoes and bags. The food hall, La Grande Épicerie, is pretty insane, offering a rich array of specialty products, from Fauchon macarons to Baltic smoked fish. Many visitors concentrate their buying power here in order to hit the spending level required for VAT.

Though it’s well located on Rue Saint-Honoré, this is the sort of spot that’s easy to walk right by. Inside it’s dimly lit, cloister-like, and achingly cool, complete with rickety, slightly off-kilter shelves that sag under the weight of Astier de Villatte’s ceramic tableware. Made from black terra-cotta clay and then finished in the brand’s signature milky white, these perfectly imperfect dishes are the hallmark of some of the best-dressed tables we know. You’ll also find the house line of geometric-print, gold-rimmed notebooks (made by the last master printer in Paris) and the gorgeously old-fashioned candle and incense collections, along with a handful of oddities, like glassware cast in the shape of skulls and stout little teapots.

Since 1820, E. Dehillerin has been outfitting the kitchens of Paris with copper pots, paring knives, whisks—and a million other ingenious gadgets nobody ever knew they needed. It is a huge store and an incredible resource, though come with full pockets (and plenty of room in your suitcase). They also sell online and ship globally.

Dotted with truly beautiful fish murals—all hand-painted on tile—this is one of those family-owned businesses where it's clear they hold a deep respect for what they do. And at this 30-year-old poisonnerie, they do the freshest fish in Paris. When we visited, they were offering beautiful jumbo crab claws along with a variety of in-season whole fish and fillets.

Occupying an old-world, village-like square, this market near the Bastille bustles with locals stocking up on their weekly groceries. When you need to catch your breath, head to Le Baron Rouge, a great wine bar just around the corner.

Parisians swear Pierre Hermé's macarons are the best in town, and we're inclined to agree. After all, the pastry wunderkind (he began his career as an apprentice to Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, before becoming the pastry chef of Fauchon when he was only 24) is known for infusing his ganaches with interesting combinations, like his famous Ispahan, which blends rose, lychee, and raspberry. The chocolates and croissants shouldn't be missed either.

The variegated marble walls, cow figurines, mosaic tile floor, and checkered apron staff sure are charming—but it's all totally unnecessary, too, as we'd happily visit a broom closet for the cheeses here. Sitting on top of a hilly street in the 9th, you'll find a country's worth of varieties—both stinky and delicate—and the know-how behind the counter to point you to something you're going to love. For those who are just passing through, they can vacuum pack fragile cheeses for travel.

With the Eiffel Tower as a stunning backdrop, this market focuses on produce and fresh seafood. There are also stands for escargots, meat, eggs, and a smattering of home goods.

Literally packed to the rafters with cheese, this is one of those tiny little spots you'll smell before you see. Owner Nicole Barthélemy and her team of cheese mongers will always let you sample before you buy—though the recommendations tend to be so spot-on, you arguably won't have to test many. For whatever reason, they don't tolerate photos in the shop—should you whip out your camera, you'll get scolded.

With more than 150 stalls, this is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe, and one any food lover will not want to miss. Beyond fresh veggies, fruits, eggs, and cheese, there are plenty of vendors who sell premade meals, perfect for an impromptu picnic. It happens three times a week.

Complete with cobblestone streets, a bubbling fountain, stands full of fresh flowers, and heaps of fresh bread, cheese, and charcuterie, Marché Monge is pretty much the quintessential Parisian market. Jardin des Plantes is only a few blocks away, so it's a great pit stop before an afternoon of picnicking.

The farm behind this mini-chainlet is located in the Loire valley, where they make a range of unpasteurized cheeses, butters, yogurts, and crème fraîches from scratch—while aging the cheeses of area farmers. The demi-sel croquant unpasteurized butter is crazy delicious, and portable, as they're happy to vacuum pack it for the plane.

For more than 200 years, Goumanyat has been a go-to spot for Parisian chefs looking for hard-to-find ingredients and spices. They specialize in saffron, which is stored in huge glass jars behind the counter, and grown on their farm in Iran. They’re located in a fittingly historic space that was formerly an apothecary, but they keep very irregular hours, so it’s best to call ahead before you drop by.

You could spend hours in this shop, where the walls are lined with imported spices and large sacks filled with lentils, rice, and other staples dot the floor. Owned and operated by the same couple for many years, it’s become somewhat of an institution.

A rolling ladder and packed floor-to-ceiling shelves underscore the library-like nature of this storied spice shop: Here, you'll find an encyclopedia worth of salts and peppers, mustards, chutneys, infused oils, and any number of spices. The main draw, though, are the Roellinger house mixes, like the Mauritius-inspired Poudre d'Or, which combines coriander, turmeric, West Indian bay, and unripe mango powder. Since no cookbook calls for this specific mixture, they make pairing suggestions (oysters and shellfish), and even offer links to recipes for those of us who are easily intimidated chefs.

Stalks of bamboo dangle from the ceiling like hundreds of wind-chimes at this Saint-Germain-des-Prés spot, which is the first outpost outside of Japan for the historic, 19th-century teahouse, Jugetsedo. Upstairs, you can sample any number of green tees, from earthy Sencha, to nutty Genmaicha, to creamy Macha. In the cellar-like basement, you can participate in a full, uber-traditional tea service.

We like to take a detour here while shopping on Rue Vieille du Temple. Though the buckwheat crepes are the main draw, there’s a small shop attached to the café that sells jams, ciders, and delicious cheeses.

This cozy little Spanish shop and restaurant serves up great tapas and solid selection of Spanish wine, but their real specialty is the store’s namesake charcuterie. Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, which comes from acorn-finished hogs, is the crème de la crème of cured meats. Their gift baskets, with include a few different varieties, make great gifts for fellow foodies.

Located between the 16th and 7th arrondisements, the quiet, well-mannered vibe of this market is well suited to its upscale clientele. (It’s a great option if you’re the kind of shopper who is easily overwhelmed by shouting vendors and pushy customers.) As for the wares, expect fresh bread, flowers, seafood, olives, spices, vegetables, cheese, fruit, and even prepared foods. Friends tell us that farmer Joël Thiébault (who owns a family-run vegetable operation just outside the city) is a standout for his unique, visually stunning heirlooms.

Marché Barbès is underneath a train trestle at the Barbès Metro station, and the rumble of the trains above only adds to the boisterous atmosphere of the place, which is always packed to the brim with shoppers rushing around and haggling with vendors. The goods here can be much less expensive than those in other markets around town, and while you probably won’t find a rare artisanal cheese, you can stock up on necessities for the week without breaking the bank.

Baker Christophe Vasseur has won innumerable awards for the pastries at his tiny corner boulangerie in the 10th, which makes perfect sense. Don’t be put off by the lines—which extend around the block—since the effort justifies the wait. Do as the locals do and come here to stock up on daily bread, along with pain aux raisin, and the chausson à la pomme fraîche (puff pastry stuffed with half of a baked apple).

Whether you’re a baker or not, G. Detou is worth a visit. The walls are stacked (literally) from floor to ceiling with specialty baking ingredients for even the most ambitious baking project: artisian flower, specialty oils, metallic cake decorations, and even edible flowers. Their selection of dark chocolate is one of the best in the city.

Offering bilingual cooking classes, La Cuisine Paris teaches the basics of French cooking along with master classes in everything from macarons to poultry. If you're booking in August, make sure to ask whether they are taking Mondays off.

This mini-chainlet is now five Paris locations strong (with an outpost in London), which makes a lot of sense: The bread really is distinguishably excellent, which in a place like Paris, says a lot. Though the sourdough loaves fly off the shelves, we love their nut breads—along with the fact that you can purchase by the half or quarter loaf if you can't take down the entire thing.

Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of new offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city.

Paris is one of those special cities that enthusiastically clings on to the more traditional, elegant remnants of the past—Angelina is an embodiment of this policy. A classic tearoom that first opened in 1903, the over-the-top Belle Epoque interiors create the ambiance for a truly decadent hour (or two) of sweet indulgence. The sculptural cakes and classic patisserie that line the glass cases are the perfect accompaniment to the main event: Angelina's world-renowned hot chocolate. We recommend the Old Style Hot Chocolate, made from a blend of cocoa beans whipped into hot milk and cream for the smoothest, slightly sweet, slightly bitter cup. Angelina also serves up well-executed classic French dishes like croque-madame and quiche Lorraine, but really it's the chocolate—and the people-watching—that makes this Paris institution a favorite with locals and tourists alike.

A good part of the local population is of the opinion that Pierre Hermé makes the best macarons in the city. As for the éclairs, croissants, and cakes? You'll just have to do the taste-testing for yourself. This particular outpost is massive, with a sumptuous Art Deco interior to match the contents of the pastry cases. A pretty box of Hermé’s delicately-flavored macarons veloutés (essentially meringue-like macaroons stuffed with a creamy filling) never fails to impress and makes for the perfect, easily-packed gift to bring back home.

Beyond the stunning views, the attention to detail is meticulous here, resulting in a luxurious and wonderful stay. More importantly (and unsurprisingly), two of the three on-site restaurants (Shang Palace, L’Abeille) boast Michelin stars.

Built in 1928, this opulent, eight-story hotel—just steps from the Champs Elysée—is pretty much the gold-standard for city-based, luxury hotels. It’s never a bargain, but if your budget can support the splurge, there’s really no better place to stay. Besides the lavishly-appointed rooms, the service is superb, the restaurant boasts three Michelin-stars, and the location is hard to beat.

It’s impossible to choose our favorite thing about this glamorous Le Marais hotel: the stripe-bottomed pool with a ceiling fresco by artist Jacques Merle? The in-room beauty bar menu from Oh My Cream that delivers Augustinus Bader, Tata Harper, and more to your door in 30 minutes or less? The rich design that feels as if you've entered a Wes Anderson film? Swedish interior designer Martin Brudnizki took inspiration from the salon culture of the Enlightenment, mixing eclectic prints, beautiful textures, French-artisan-made furnishings, and antiques from Paris flea markets. It’s the fourth luxury property from family-owned boutique hotel group Maisons Pariente—and in true Maisons Pariente fashion, expect elegance and exceptional service. Don’t miss dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant, Boubalé, by Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit.

This stylish hotel, squeezed between the Marais and Bastille districts, has a front-row views of the Seine and Île Saint-Louis. Terrazzo marble floors reflect the cobblestone streets of Paris. The lobby is spectacular, with giant pillars, amber-glass mirrored walls, and a striking painting by French-Algerian artist Neïl Beloufa. And the hotel collaborates with artists, florists, and brands on rotating pop-ups. The 162 rooms are sleek and modern, and categorized by view. We love the details like warming-towel racks, bulldog-shaped speakers, and floating nightstands. There’s a fitness center, pool, and intimate Codage spa. (Book ahead for the “haute-couture” massage—it’s fantastic.)

From Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, Boubalé—“my little darling” in Yiddish—serves incredible Ashkenazi food with a twist. We love the classic pierogi potatoes, schnitzel, entrecôte, and the herb salad, but unexpected items like tuna sashimi drizzled with a strawberry sorbet, soy sauce, and olive oil and finished with crunchy dried chives are just as delicious. Book a seat at the chef’s counter to watch all the behind-the-scenes preparation.

This bustling bistro is particularly great for late dinners and brunch: The menu is nice and succinct, offering the classics you want after a few glasses of wine. You’ll find steak au cheval, steak tartare, a selection of burgers, and a sampling of salads, plus a small wine list mostly offered by the carafe. This is one of the few places open on Sunday.

On summer nights, the crowds here spill out onto the streets; when winter’s chill descends, it’s one of the cozier spots in the Marais.

Popular with locals and staff from the nearby galleries, this lively and unpretentious Provençal-centric restaurant offers a delicious range of entrées and desserts. If you opt for the latter, they make the most memorable and dangerously delectable chocolate mousse—which just so happens to be all-you-can-eat.

Classic French bistros like Chez Julien are actually getting a little harder to find. Just steps from the Seine, it has an outdoor terrace where you can take in the city views. The most perfect steak frites, crème brûlée, and other traditional dishes are served on logo-emblazoned plates and accompanied by a great wine list. It’s a little on the pricey side but the formal interior (which was rvamped by the Costes brothers) and old-school service make it a good choice to toast a special occasion.

This speakeasy-esque spot in the Marais is run by brothers Mourad and Hakim Mazouz and takes “homey atmosphere” to the next level. For one, it’s set up like a bohemian apartment, with diners taking their pick from the kitchen, dining room, boudoir, or living room—which has a ping-pong table in the center. Upstairs, a smoking lounge is hidden behind a secret doorway (in an antique armoire, naturally). The extreme comfort theme also applies to the menu, with steak frites taking top billing for dinner and an epic brunch spread on weekends.

The Marais is flush with casual dining spots, which means this two-story restaurant fits in perfectly. There are communal tables on the ground floor for larger parties and walk-ins, and the menu, though full of French delicacies, isn’t the least bit pretentious. The wine list is nicely reasonable, too, in both selection and price.

At lunch, Kitchen is overrun with health-conscious Parisians who sidle up to the communal tables for salads, veggie stews, and cold-pressed juice.

On Sunday, when most restaurants in Paris close shop, our heads go straight to falafel takeaway in the Marais. L’As du Fallafel was the OG—it opened in 1979, ahead of its many imitators on Rue des Rosiers—and it’s without question The One. (Miznon is excellent, too, if you’re looking for a sit-down situation with whole-roasted cauliflower and wine by the glass.)

While we’ve arguably had better Moroccan, Le 404 isn’t really about the food (though the lentils and chicken tagines are a welcome culinary break from beef bourguignon): It’s always a party, best capped off with a cocktail at Andy Wahloo next door (from the same owners). Keep in mind that Le 404 is also open on Sundays, a Parisian rarity.

This tiny, super casual Tel Aviv transplant, located in the center of the Marais (known for its large concentration of falafel shops), doesn’t offer much in terms of seating other than a small communal table and a few counter seats, but what it lacks in accommodations, it more than makes up for in really good food. (You will most likely want to take your meal to go, anyway.) The menu offers loads of veggie options and is a cross between Israeli street eats and French cuisine: Think beef bourguignon pita with a side of whole-roasted cauliflower, washed down with beer or a glass of Israeli wine. For dessert, try the tarte tatin, also served in pita form.

Since 1946, the Finkelsztajn family has been holding down this yellow-fronted deli, which is known citywide for its rugelach, challah, strudels, bagels, and cheesecake. We go for the pastrami sandwich, which involves cucumber, tomatoes, pickles, and pepper caviar on a perfectly delicate poppy seed covered roll.

Pierre Jancou, who honed his skills at Paris’s popular Racines, opened this hip little mural-tiled restaurant on a windy street in the 10th. There’s a heavy focus on provenance here, especially with the wines, many of which are natural.

A welcome addition to Paris's growing roster of health-centric restaurants, Wild & The Moon hits that sweet spot of tasty health-conscious food that is actually filling. The menu has been formulated by vegan nutritionists, with over half of it dominated by juices and tonics—blue moon smoothies, golden lattes, and matcha mylks. The food centers around hearty, flavorful grain and lentil bowls packed with vegetables. For the traveler seeking a little balance with their crème brûlée, stocking your hotel room with a mini-bar-friendly assortment of the café's raw bars, chia puddings, cold-pressed juices, and zucchini muffins is never a bad call.

Still sporting its original décor from 1903, the horseshoe-shaped bar beckons for a coffee, a kir (white wine and crème de cassis), or a quick meal. While there's a full restaurant in the back, it lacks the prime people-watching you'll get up front.

While you can get a delicious lunch or dinner here (plus 360-views and the mirrored Olafur Eliasson installation The Seeing City), the real reason to visit is drinks and dancing; at 11pm, the restaurant transforms into a buzzy nightclub. Set on the top two floors of the SO/ Paris hotel, the club’s leather booths and 70s-disco vibe draws a chic fashionable crowd. Even if you don’t need a cigarette break, go out on the terrace to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle from afar.

This is Paris's version of La Esquina, complete with a doorman to hold back the crowds. Up front, you'll find a teeny-tiny tacqueria, with fresh tortillas and a roster of toppings, whipped up under the watchful eye of the Mexico City–born chef. There's a hidden door in the back that opens into a cozy bar, which offers some of the more inventive (and delicious) tequila cocktails in the city.

Donna is right down the street from the Centre Pompidou, so you can stop in after your museum visit to chat about Mondrian, Matisse, and Duchamp over a glass of natural wine. But this bar is worth going out of your way for, too: The wine list is tightly curated, the food creative, the crowd lively, and the playlist consistently good. Wander up to the second floor for a quieter, more intimate space.

Part wine shop, part bistro, Le Verre Volé draws a reliably large crowd despite its tiny footprint (you'll want to make a reservation unless you're just stopping in to pick up a bottle). There's a wine shop in the 11th (38 rue Oberkampf) as well as a market (54 rue de la Folie Méricourt).

Besides hosting concerts, art exhibitions, and live performances, this ex-storage space turned squat cultural institution on the Canal Saint-Martin is also home to one of the area's best bars. On busy days, the local art crowd spills out onto the banks of the canal with beers and affordable cocktails from noon until...whenever.

Operating out of a little window stand on the Isle St. Louis, the ice creams and sorbets here justify the sometimes long lines. After all, it’s arguably the best in Paris. Enough said.

Whether you want a green juice to kick off what will otherwise be a day of gluttony, or need a palate-cleanser after a string of rich French meals, this tiny space offers a respite. Besides cold-pressed juice (Paris’s first foray into that space), you’ll find locals feasting on quinoa salads and veggie-laden muffins at the communal table.

I/O Café—named for the on/off buttons on a coffee machine—is a simple spot to pick up a cup of specialty coffee from Danish roaster La Cabra.

The team behind the pâtisserie Mamiche opened this takeaway lunch shop just around the corner from their location near the Canal Saint-Martin, serving sandwich stand-bys—ham and cheese, pan con tomate, etc.—as well as little pizzas and side salads. Opt for one of the combos: You can get a sandwich, drink, and dessert for 11 euros, which isn’t a bad price for the neighborhood.

This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet.

While this chainlet’s busy, color-soaked printed dresses and quirky shoes might be a little over-the-top for our tastes, the global furniture and home accessory finds are a Parisian go-to for injecting a dose of color into a home. At the shop in the 10th, stock up on printed Nathalie Leté dishware, Mexican oilcloths, woven plastic chairs, and more, which are pleasingly crammed into every last nook in the shop.

Part café, part boutique, attention to detail is paramount at this minimalist space, whether it's the streamlined shape of a Raf Simons sweatshirt, Prada loafers, or the perfect cappucino and slice of cake.

Large and loftlike, this industrial-feeling store has an ambitious mandate: fair-trade clothing and accessories from little-known and established artisan brands, mixed in with a smattering of vintage furniture, art books, records, and indie zines. If you've got little ones, don't miss the outpost devoted to kids.

Fittingly tiny, this packed-to-the-rafters shop is lined with kids clothing from up-and-coming European designers. Union Jack-emblazoned booties, tulle skirts flecked with sequins, and wee gingham shirts are as appealing to parents as they are to little ones. It's the counterpart to the main, Centre Commercial.

With stints at Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Muegler, and Christian LaCroix under Christophe Lemaire’s belt, launching his own label in 1991 wasn’t a particularly big feat—but what he’s continued to achieve in the intervening years certainly impresses. Lemaire oversaw the rejuvenation of Lacoste in 2000, before moving on to Hermès women in 2010. Meanwhile, he’s persevered with his own collection, which focuses on crisp and classic sportswear in subtly architectural shapes.

This shop literally spans a block—and what feels like a big block. Inside, you'll find every iteration of every modern home trend, which can overwhelm, but if you can take the time to really look, you'll find tons to lug home.

Lines like Masscob, The New Society, and Xirena set the tone here, which is equal parts girly and refined.

Love Stories hails from Amsterdam, but the lingerie is so delicate, it may as well be Parisian. The matching sets, which come in varying degrees of skimpiness, are a good place to start. We love the selection of supremely comfortable bralettes in cotton and lace for traveling, or just lounging in. There’s also a smart edit of accessories, and somehow, we can never leave the store without adding a silk sleep mask or floral-print laundry bag (so convenient for storing underwear or purses) to our basket.

Fact: They don’t let you leave Paris without at least half a suitcase’s worth of marinière shirts. Ok, it’s not exactly fact, but we do like to spend some time at Maison Labiche when we’re in town. This is where stack upon folded stack of striped cotton tees and sweaters sit snugly in the little nooks that line the walls. And because we’ve never met a monogram we didn’t love, Maison Labiche is an especially important stop: they’ll embroider whatever you want right on the spot.

You could spend an hour browsing through this stationary shop’s selection of handmade paper, calligraphy pens, stamps, boxes, antique cards, and sealing wax. We can’t imagine visiting without finding something you just can’t leave without.

It's rare to find a store that's so much bigger than its collective parts, but Merci is one of those spots that opened to an endless stream of breathless acclaim—and just as many inches of coverage in the press. This is easy to understand: For one, profits go to charities in Madagascar; for two, it's gorgeous and artful while still feeling accessible to all. Located in an airy, sprawling nineteenth-century fabric factory, this superstore sells the best of pretty much everything. Labels like Isabel Marant, Vanessa Bruno, and Stella McCartney mingle on the clothing racks; natural shampoos and Comme des Garçons perfumes line the shelves in the comprehensive beauty apothecary; and there are loads of amazing homewares, too. Fresh flowers and gardening tools? Check. Don't leave without visiting the Used Book Café in the basement, as you can flip through any one of the 10,000 preloved books that line the walls while you wait for your brunch.

This men’s clothing store strikes just the right balance for picky dressers; it’s not doing too much, nor too little. (Fitting that it’s the brother line to French-girl wardrobe staple Sézane.)

You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee.

The only thing effortful about Thanx God I’m a V.I.P. is saying its name. Otherwise, it’s one of the most expertly curated and well-organized vintage shops we’ve ever visited. That’s all thanks to owner Sylvie Chateigner, who’s filled the shop with the good stuff: Moncler puffers, Max Mara trenches, and enough Prada and Dior to fill your closet several times over. There’s a cute coffee bar inside the store, too.

This postmodern building revolutionized the world of architecture—and turned the rarified concept of a museum into something that could be unintimidating and fun. Designed by Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, and Gianfrancho Franchini, the Centre Pompidou is marked by an exterior lined with colorful tubes that hold the center's plumbing, electric, and circulation systems—inside, it's just as interactive. Home to a public library, a center for music and acoustic research, and the Musee National d’Art Moderne, since its inception in 1977 some of the most important modern art in the world has graced its walls, including pieces from Dali, Pollock, Warhol, and Picasso.

This is Chantal Crousel's second location, offering the same reliably excellent mix of emerging and established artists from the contemporary art scene: In the past, she's exhibited talents like Cindy Sherman, Jenny Holzer, Sophie Calle, and Richard Prince.

Chez Valentin may be small in size, but it's big on ambition: The contemporary artwork here always pushes the envelope in the most compelling way.

Best known for giving Damien Hirst his first solo show in 1991, Galerie Perrotin trailblazed in the Asian art market (they also gave Takashi Murakami his first exhibition outside of Japan). Over the intervening years, Galerie Perrotin's pace hasn't dwindled: They continue to launch up-and-coming artists from around the globe.

Thaddaeus Ropac opened his first gallery in Salzburg when he was only 23, followed by an outpost in Paris seven years later. He represents a host of international talents (including Anselm Keifer), and is known for ambitious exhibitions and plenty of guest star curators (including Sofia Coppola). Thaddaeus Ropac also opened a space in the Paris suburb of Pantin, which easily justifies a trip for collectors.

In a wildly compelling juxtaposition, this museum pairs electronic music and digital arts with the facade of an original 19th-century theatre. While the exhibitions are great, try to catch a concert here—and cap it off with a cocktail at the bar.

While the work of photographers like Helmut Newton might hypothetically seem too stark and modern for this rambling and elegant 18th century mansion, it's a combination that totally works: Beyond an impressive permanent collection, this museum always lands the exhibitions everyone is talking about, whether it's Shirin Neshat, Henri Cartier-Bresson, or Sebastião Salgado. Keep in mind that they're closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Even though it occupies a 16th-century cellar beneath the Marquis de Sade’s house, the offerings here are thoroughly child-friendly: The museum showcases antique wands and hats, optical illusions, contraptions, and loads of gorgeously rendered posters and prints. And if you have a little one who loves magic, they do a show (in French) that will totally appeal.

It's rare to find a museum where you can see such a wide breadth of a single artist's work, but in this Marais manse (which dates back to the 1600s), you can see pieces from every period of Picasso's life. In addition, it also houses Picasso's personal art collection, which includes pieces from Cézanne, Rousseau, and Degas, as well as significant African art.

Offered in a traditional hammam setting that will lull you to sleep, the Thai-style massages here are the best in the city. The private rooms come complete with showers, and a candle-lit Jacuzzi. There's an additional location in the 16th.

Fauve is a spa dedicated to hair. The hair on your head, yes—they offer a massage that aims to revitalize the scalp and boost shine. But also eyebrows (their brow treatment focuses on relieving tension around the eyes) and body hair (removal, specifically, by wax and laser).

This is one of the few places in Paris you can take reformer Pilates. People come for the helpful instruction—often delivered in both French and English—and intimate space. Drop into class, no membership required, at one of the two locations: This one’s in the Marais and there’s another in Palais Royal.

Temple’s boxing class takes place in a chic studio with parquet floors and low lighting. But the real magic comes from the instructors, who meet you where you are: Beginners and experienced boxers will both come out of class sweaty and satisfied.

This pretty and intimate studio maintains a calendar of movement classes—vinyasa and hatha yoga, Pilates, and stretching—plus breathwork and sound baths. There’s also a private treatment room for lymphatic massage, Reiki, hypnosis, and naturopathic consultations.