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Clamato

11th Arrondissement, Paris, France

why we love it

While it's nearly impossible to get a reservation at Septime—and a bar stool at the wine bar is hard to come by, too—you’ll probably have better luck at the owners' venture, Clamato, a seafood-centric joint that doesn't take reservations. Also, it’s open all day on Saturday and Sunday, which is a rarity in Paris.

Originally featured in The Paris Foodie Guide

category

Restaurants

price

$$$

Clamato

80 Rue de Charonne, 11th

phone number

+33.1.43.72.74.53

visit website

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Kunitoraya

Kunitoraya

1 Rue Villedo, 1st

Rue Sainte-Anne in the 1st is the city’s version of Little Tokyo: There’s a seemingly endless row of noodle shops and small Japanese joints. Of all the options, Kunitoraya is our favorite, thanks to its multi-varied udons. There’s a more upscale location around the corner on rue Villedo, but this outpost is more casual and rarely requires a wait.

Le Mary Celeste

Le Mary Celeste

1 Rue Commines, 3rd

Named for an infamous shipwreck—the boat was found intact, including its stores of liquor, though the crew had vanished—Le Mary Celeste got a lot of ink in the press when it opened: The young team behind this restaurant in the 3rd is the same one behind taqueria Candelaria. Like its sister restaurant, Le Mary Celeste has a drinks menu that's long and formidable, while the food menu is a bit more succinct. It’s all about oysters and other small plates that are intended to be shared. Though it does take reservations, it's just as easy to grab a seat at the bar.

Verjus

Verjus

52 Rue Richelieu, 1st

When American couple Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian moved to Paris, they didn’t start with a restaurant: Instead, they cultivated their reputation through a series of under-the-radar dinner party-style seatings hosted out of their apartment. Called Hidden Kitchen, you could only land a reservation by booking online. The concept—and cooking—was so popular, the duo opened a permanent location, called Verjus, in 2010, situated in a small passageway across from the Palais Royal. It’s distinctly New American and it’s delicious. If you can’t stomach the prices (the tasting menu is 98 euros), hit the bar à vins next door.

Spring

Spring

6 Rue Bailleul, 1st
Permanently Closed

While it’s now a few years old—and has been expanded from its original, 16-seat footprint—it’s still hard to get through the door at Spring. Chicago-native Daniel Rose’s prix-fixe fare, which is served out of the large open kitchen, is reliably excellent and continues to justify the hype. In fact, there’s no actual menu: In their words, they will just make you dinner, all sourced from the Places des Fêtes.

Septime

Septime

80 Rue de Charonne, 11th

The chefs behind Septime seem to understand that you can’t fail when you start with the best fresh ingredients. This isn’t to say that the cool, pared-back space isn’t innovative—it just isn’t flashy.

Le Servan

Le Servan

32 Rue St. Maur, 11th
Mon-Fri:12pm-2pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Sat: 7:30pm-10:30pm

Parisian dining has a reputation for being a little stodgy at times, what with the ubiquitous gilded interiors and price fixe-only menu—but at Le Servan in the 11th, you’ll find neither. Instead, chef Tatiana Levha, and her sister, Katia, offer up a short but sweet a la carte menu of Asian-inspired classics that changes pretty much daily. As for decor, it’s all neutral, with a brass-top bar. Walk-ins fare well at lunch, but make a reservation for dinner.

Isami

Isami

4 Quai d'Orléans, 4th
Permanently Closed

Top-quality sushi and sashimi is served alongside little else at this six-table spot on lle Saint-Louis. It’s tiny, so reservations are essential.

Frenchie

Frenchie

5 Rue du Nil, 2nd

Nantes-born Gregory Marchand, who cooked under both Jamie Oliver and Danny Meyer (he earned his nickname “Frenchie” while cooking with Oliver), offers a subtle worldly perspective on classic French cooking via a tiny set menu (145 euros per person). Reservations are hard to get, though Marchand’s walk-in-only venture, Frenchie bar à vins, is an option should you fail to land a table, and there’s also his Italian restaurant down the street, Altro Frenchie.

La Dame de Pic

La Dame de Pic

20 Rue du Louvre, 1st

Anne-Sophie Pic’s flagship restaurant in Valence has three Michelin stars, and the world expects La Dame de Pic to land the same rating. (It currently has one star, which it won in 2024.) Pic is ultra-talented, and her food feels rare and elegant. The high-concept menu here revolves around fragrance profiles—Pic partnered with Phillip Bousseton, the nose from Takasago—which makes for an unusual and unabashedly sensual experience.

Cibus

Cibus

5 Rue Molière, 1st
Mon: 7:30pm-11pm
Tues-Fri: 12:30pm-2:30pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sat: 7:30pm-11pm

The chef’s daily market visits direct the brief all-organic, Italian-inflected menu at this fittingly tiny restaurant (only 15 seats). Expect dishes like French beans with octopus and wild mushroom spaghetti.

Le Chateaubriand

Le Chateaubriand

129 Ave. Parmentier, 11th
Wed-Fri: 7pm-11pm
Sat: 12pm-2pm, 7pm-11pm

The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table.

L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre

L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre

3 Carrefour de l'Odeon, 6th

Yves Camdeborde was so busy at his popular Left Bank restaurant, Le Comptoir, that he opted to accommodate the overflow by opening a tiny bar à vin next door. Though it’s standing room only, which is quite common in Paris, the delicious Béarnais-style small plates are worth tempting discomfort. We promise it’s a pleasant experience.

Buvette

Buvette

28 Rue Henry Monnier, 9th
Mon-Thurs: 9am-11pm
Fri: 9am-12am
Sat: 10am-12am
Sun: 10am-11pm

It takes nerve (and talent) for an American to take a French concept and re-create it for a famously hard-to-please Parisian audience. In chef Jody Williams's case, her French-inspired wine bar, Buvette, has been embraced with open arms. She tested the concept in New York first—there is a much-loved West Village outpost—and exported her gastrothèque to Paris, to rave reviews. In this romantic, perfectly Parisian little wine bar, you can expect a wonderful cocktail and wine list, and a petite menu of small versions of dishes like coq au vin, moules, and tartines. They also serve several local, seasonal salads—good ones are still hard to find in many traditional French restaurants.

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Shang Palace

10 Ave. d'Léna, 16th

The menu is plucked directly out of Southeast China, showcasing picks like wok-fried pigeon, steamed sea scallops with vermicelli, and perfect salmon, served with shredded fruit. The dining room is gilded, ornate, and luxe, which is exactly what you’d expect from the Shangri-La Hotel.

Marsan par Hélène Darroze

Marsan par Hélène Darroze

4 Rue d’Assas, 6th

Classic and inventive dishes get the two Michelin star treatment at the hands of Landes-born and fourth generation chef Hélène Darroze. With additional restaurants in London and Marrakesh, the menu has a global touch with deeply local roots: Darroze uses area providers, and bases her dishes on what’s seasonally appropriate. Her quiet and restrained approach can be felt in the room’s decor as well, which is hushed and elegant.

Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie

Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie

34 Rue Montmartre, 1st

This quaint little restaurant serves excellent French food—cassoulet, steak tartare, and chocolate cake—in an unstuffy Art Nouveau dining room. The adjoining shop, complete with ham hocks hanging from the rafters, has a killer selection of French wines, cheeses, and other specialty items.

Ober Mamma

Ober Mamma

107 Blvd. Richard Lenoir, 11th
Mon-Wed: 12pm-2:30pm, 6:45pm-10:45pm
Thurs-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:45pm
Sat: 12pm-3:30pm, 6:30pm-10:45pm
Sun: 12pm-3:30pm, 6:45pm-10:45pm

This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.

La Fontaine de Mars

La Fontaine de Mars

129 Rue St. Dominique, 7th
Mon-Fri: 12pm-3pm, 7pm-11pm
Sat-Sun: 12:30pm-3:30pm, 7pm-11pm

In a city filled with good, classic restaurants, it's hard to narrow it down to a few favorites, but Le Fontaine de Mars is one of those old-world bistros that constantly draws you back in. Once inside, no one would blame you for thinking that nothing has changed in a hundred years—and maybe it hasn't: Pink tablecloths, mirrored walls, and retro floor tiles abound. Keep your order to the tried-and-true classics, good steak-frites or coq au vin with a large glass of red is the way to go here.

Bonhomie

Bonhomie

22 Rue d'Enghien, 10th

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Le Dauphin

Le Dauphin

131 Ave. Parmentier, 11th
Tues: 7pm-11pm
Wed-Fri: 12pm-2pm, 7pm-11pm
Sat: 7pm-11pm

Le Dauphin is immediately next door to its sister restaurant, Le Chateaubriand. Locals hover around the marbled bar (there are only a handful of tables) for well-priced—though complex—small plates and surprisingly affordable wine.

Frenchie Bar à Vins

Frenchie Bar à Vins

6 Rue du Nil, 2nd

This first-come-first-serve wine bar is a tough seat for good reason: The small plates are crafted from superb ingredients, and the wine list is reasonably priced. Closed on weekends, you can usually snag a spot in the first wave by going early in the week, and arriving 20 minutes before the 7pm opening.

Septime La Cave

Septime La Cave

3 Rue Basfroi, 11th

While you can take your low-sulfite wine to go at this former shoe repair shop, you can also grab a seat at the bar and snack while you drink: Sausages, anchovies, and cheese all get the Septime treatment here.

Verjus Bar à Vins

Verjus Bar à Vins

47 Rue Montpensieur, 1st

Tucked away beneath its parent restaurant upstairs (the excellent, prix-fixe Verjus) this more casual bar à vin lives in a cool vaulted cave and serves innovative small plates. Bonus: The wine list is top notch.

Herboristerie

Herboristerie

11 Rue Petits Champs, 1st

For over 40 years, Michel Pierre has transformed medicinal plants into herbal infusions, nutritional supplements, essential oils, and cosmetics. The staff will prescribe based on your ailments, though there's plenty of lovely stuff here that is more preventative then curative.

Le Bon Marché

Le Bon Marché

22 Rue de Sèvres, 7th
Mon-Sat: 10am-7:45pm
Sun: 11am-7:45pm

Though it's often (mistakenly) credited as being the first department store, there's no doubt that Le Bon Marché's founders, Aristide and Marguerite Boucicaut, were pioneers, particularly in a culture that so adamantly prizes specialty stores. Launched in 1838 as an extension of the Boucicaut's single market stall, it became a fixed-price department store in 1850 (before that, you would barter), moving into its sweeping, Art Deco home in 1867. While it's been expanded several times since (and now belongs to LVMH), it's still inarguably one of the most beautiful, large-scale shops in existence. Whether you're looking for Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Maje, or Iro, it's likely here: Along with lingerie, kids clothing, furniture, household essentials, and shoes and bags. The food hall, La Grande Épicerie, is pretty insane, offering a rich array of specialty products, from Fauchon macarons to Baltic smoked fish. Many visitors concentrate their buying power here in order to hit the spending level required for VAT.

Astier de Villatte

Astier de Villatte

173 Rue St. Honoré, 1st

Though it’s well located on Rue Saint-Honoré, this is the sort of spot that’s easy to walk right by. Inside it’s dimly lit, cloister-like, and achingly cool, complete with rickety, slightly off-kilter shelves that sag under the weight of Astier de Villatte’s ceramic tableware. Made from black terra-cotta clay and then finished in the brand’s signature milky white, these perfectly imperfect dishes are the hallmark of some of the best-dressed tables we know. You’ll also find the house line of geometric-print, gold-rimmed notebooks (made by the last master printer in Paris) and the gorgeously old-fashioned candle and incense collections, along with a handful of oddities, like glassware cast in the shape of skulls and stout little teapots.

E. Dehillerin

E. Dehillerin

18-20 Rue Coquillière, 1st
Mon: 9am-12:30pm, 2pm-6pm
Tues-Fri: 9am-7pm
Sat: 9am-6pm

Since 1820, E. Dehillerin has been outfitting the kitchens of Paris with copper pots, paring knives, whisks—and a million other ingenious gadgets nobody ever knew they needed. It is a huge store and an incredible resource, though come with full pockets (and plenty of room in your suitcase). They also sell online and ship globally.

Poissonnerie du Dôme

Poissonnerie du Dôme

4 Rue Delambre, 14th
Tues-Sat: 8am-1pm, 4pm-7pm
Sun: 8am-1pm

Dotted with truly beautiful fish murals—all hand-painted on tile—this is one of those family-owned businesses where it's clear they hold a deep respect for what they do. And at this 30-year-old poisonnerie, they do the freshest fish in Paris. When we visited, they were offering beautiful jumbo crab claws along with a variety of in-season whole fish and fillets.

Marché d’Aligre

Marché d’Aligre

Rue d'Aligre, 12th
Tues-Fri: 7:30am-1:30pm
Sat-Sun: 7:30am-2:30pm

Occupying an old-world, village-like square, this market near the Bastille bustles with locals stocking up on their weekly groceries. When you need to catch your breath, head to Le Baron Rouge, a great wine bar just around the corner.

Pierre Hermé

Pierre Hermé

Galeries Lafayette, 40 Blvd. Haussmann, 9th
Mon-Sat: 10am-8:30pm
Sun: 11am-8pm

Parisians swear Pierre Hermé's macarons are the best in town, and we're inclined to agree. After all, the pastry wunderkind (he began his career as an apprentice to Gaston Lenôtre at the age of 14, before becoming the pastry chef of Fauchon when he was only 24) is known for infusing his ganaches with interesting combinations, like his famous Ispahan, which blends rose, lychee, and raspberry. The chocolates and croissants shouldn't be missed either.

La Ferme Saint Hubert

La Ferme Saint Hubert

36 Rue de Rochechouart, 9th

The variegated marble walls, cow figurines, mosaic tile floor, and checkered apron staff sure are charming—but it's all totally unnecessary, too, as we'd happily visit a broom closet for the cheeses here. Sitting on top of a hilly street in the 9th, you'll find a country's worth of varieties—both stinky and delicate—and the know-how behind the counter to point you to something you're going to love. For those who are just passing through, they can vacuum pack fragile cheeses for travel.

Marché Saxe-Breteuil

Marché Saxe-Breteuil

37-31 Ave. de Saxe, 7th
Thurs: 7am-1:30pm
Sat: 7am-2:30pm

With the Eiffel Tower as a stunning backdrop, this market focuses on produce and fresh seafood. There are also stands for escargots, meat, eggs, and a smattering of home goods.

Barthélémy

Barthélémy

51 Rue de Grenelle, 7th

Literally packed to the rafters with cheese, this is one of those tiny little spots you'll smell before you see. Owner Nicole Barthélemy and her team of cheese mongers will always let you sample before you buy—though the recommendations tend to be so spot-on, you arguably won't have to test many. For whatever reason, they don't tolerate photos in the shop—should you whip out your camera, you'll get scolded.

Marché Raspail

Marché Raspail

Blvd. Raspail, between Rue du Cherche-Midi & Rue de Rennes, 6th
Tues: 7am-2:30pm
Fri: 7am-2:30pm
Sun: 9am-3pm

With more than 150 stalls, this is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe, and one any food lover will not want to miss. Beyond fresh veggies, fruits, eggs, and cheese, there are plenty of vendors who sell premade meals, perfect for an impromptu picnic. It happens three times a week.

Marché Monge

Marché Monge

Place Monge, 5th
Wed: 7am-2:30pm
Fri: 7am-2:30pm
Sun: 7am-3pm

Complete with cobblestone streets, a bubbling fountain, stands full of fresh flowers, and heaps of fresh bread, cheese, and charcuterie, Marché Monge is pretty much the quintessential Parisian market. Jardin des Plantes is only a few blocks away, so it's a great pit stop before an afternoon of picnicking.

Marché des Enfants Rouges

Marché des Enfants Rouges

39 Rue de Bretagne, 3rd
Tues-Sat: 8:30am-10:30pm
Sun: 8:30am-5pm

At 400 years old, the Marais-based Marché des Enfants Rouges is worth browsing whether you're hungry or not (you can always stock up on fresh-cut flowers, ephemera, and larder-worthy oils and preserves). But bring an appetite—you'll find a seemingly endless sprawl of food vendors hawking everything from tagines to crepes to hearty sandwiches. Our pick: Chez Taeko's stand, which serves delicious, authentic Japanese fare.

Pascal Beillevaire

Pascal Beillevaire

77 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
Tues-Sat: 9am-7:45pm
Sun: 9am-1pm

The farm behind this mini-chainlet is located in the Loire valley, where they make a range of unpasteurized cheeses, butters, yogurts, and crème fraîches from scratch—while aging the cheeses of area farmers. The demi-sel croquant unpasteurized butter is crazy delicious, and portable, as they're happy to vacuum pack it for the plane.

Goumanyat

Goumanyat

3 Rue Charles-François Dupuis, 3rd

For more than 200 years, Goumanyat has been a go-to spot for Parisian chefs looking for hard-to-find ingredients and spices. They specialize in saffron, which is stored in huge glass jars behind the counter, and grown on their farm in Iran. They’re located in a fittingly historic space that was formerly an apothecary, but they keep very irregular hours, so it’s best to call ahead before you drop by.

Izraël

Izraël

30 Rue François Miron, 4th

You could spend hours in this shop, where the walls are lined with imported spices and large sacks filled with lentils, rice, and other staples dot the floor. Owned and operated by the same couple for many years, it’s become somewhat of an institution.

Épices Roellinger

Épices Roellinger

51 Bis Rue St. Anne, 2nd

A rolling ladder and packed floor-to-ceiling shelves underscore the library-like nature of this storied spice shop: Here, you'll find an encyclopedia worth of salts and peppers, mustards, chutneys, infused oils, and any number of spices. The main draw, though, are the Roellinger house mixes, like the Mauritius-inspired Poudre d'Or, which combines coriander, turmeric, West Indian bay, and unripe mango powder. Since no cookbook calls for this specific mixture, they make pairing suggestions (oysters and shellfish), and even offer links to recipes for those of us who are easily intimidated chefs.

Jugetsudo by Maruyama

Jugetsudo by Maruyama

95 Rue de Seine, 6th

Stalks of bamboo dangle from the ceiling like hundreds of wind-chimes at this Saint-Germain-des-Prés spot, which is the first outpost outside of Japan for the historic, 19th-century teahouse, Jugetsedo. Upstairs, you can sample any number of green tees, from earthy Sencha, to nutty Genmaicha, to creamy Macha. In the cellar-like basement, you can participate in a full, uber-traditional tea service.

Breizh Café

Breizh Café

109 Rue Vieille du Temple, 3rd

We like to take a detour here while shopping on Rue Vieille du Temple. Though the buckwheat crepes are the main draw, there’s a small shop attached to the café that sells jams, ciders, and delicious cheeses.

Bellota-Bellota

Bellota-Bellota

18 Rue Jean Nicot, 7th

This cozy little Spanish shop and restaurant serves up great tapas and solid selection of Spanish wine, but their real specialty is the store’s namesake charcuterie. Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, which comes from acorn-finished hogs, is the crème de la crème of cured meats. Their gift baskets, with include a few different varieties, make great gifts for fellow foodies.

Marché Avenue du Président Wilson

Marché Avenue du Président Wilson

Ave. du Président Wilson, 16th
Wed: 7am-2:30pm
Sat: 7am-3pm

Located between the 16th and 7th arrondisements, the quiet, well-mannered vibe of this market is well suited to its upscale clientele. (It’s a great option if you’re the kind of shopper who is easily overwhelmed by shouting vendors and pushy customers.) As for the wares, expect fresh bread, flowers, seafood, olives, spices, vegetables, cheese, fruit, and even prepared foods. Friends tell us that farmer Joël Thiébault (who owns a family-run vegetable operation just outside the city) is a standout for his unique, visually stunning heirlooms.

Marché Barbès

Marché Barbès

60 Blvd. de la Chapelle, 18th
Wed: 7am-1:30pm
Sat: 7am-2:30pm

Marché Barbès is underneath a train trestle at the Barbès Metro station, and the rumble of the trains above only adds to the boisterous atmosphere of the place, which is always packed to the brim with shoppers rushing around and haggling with vendors. The goods here can be much less expensive than those in other markets around town, and while you probably won’t find a rare artisanal cheese, you can stock up on necessities for the week without breaking the bank.

Du Pain et Des Idées

Du Pain et Des Idées

34 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th

Baker Christophe Vasseur has won innumerable awards for the pastries at his tiny corner boulangerie in the 10th, which makes perfect sense. Don’t be put off by the lines—which extend around the block—since the effort justifies the wait. Do as the locals do and come here to stock up on daily bread, along with pain aux raisin, and the chausson à la pomme fraîche (puff pastry stuffed with half of a baked apple).

G. Detou

G. Detou

58 Rue Tiquetonne, 2nd

Whether you’re a baker or not, G. Detou is worth a visit. The walls are stacked (literally) from floor to ceiling with specialty baking ingredients for even the most ambitious baking project: artisian flower, specialty oils, metallic cake decorations, and even edible flowers. Their selection of dark chocolate is one of the best in the city.

La Cuisine Paris

La Cuisine Paris

80 Quai de l'Hôtel de Ville, 4th

Offering bilingual cooking classes, La Cuisine Paris teaches the basics of French cooking along with master classes in everything from macarons to poultry. If you're booking in August, make sure to ask whether they are taking Mondays off.

Poilâne

Poilâne

8 Rue du Cherche-Midi, 6th

This mini-chainlet is now five Paris locations strong (with an outpost in London), which makes a lot of sense: The bread really is distinguishably excellent, which in a place like Paris, says a lot. Though the sourdough loaves fly off the shelves, we love their nut breads—along with the fact that you can purchase by the half or quarter loaf if you can't take down the entire thing.

Mariage Frères

Mariage Frères

30 Rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th

Enlisted by Louis XIV's court to explore the tea trade in the 1600s, Nicolas and Pierre Mariage sailed the globe in search of new offerings, passing the mantle down from generation to generation. In 1854, Henri and Edouard Mariage settled on land and launched a tea wholesale business in Paris, catering to the city's finest hotels and restaurants. They didn't open their doors to the public until the 1980s—and business has been brisk, to say the least, ever since. Outfitted with furnishings from the original Mariage Frères office (oversize tea canisters, heavy cabinetry, wicker furniture, potted palms), the Marais outpost offers a literal world of teas—along with small eats and a smattering of home goods, like teapots and gorgeously scented candles (Darjeeling is our favorite). There are outposts all over the city.

Angelina

Angelina

226 Rue de Rivoli, 1st
Mon-Thurs: 7:30am-7pm
Fri: 7:30am-7:30pm
Sat-Sun: 8am-7:30pm

Paris is one of those special cities that enthusiastically clings on to the more traditional, elegant remnants of the past—Angelina is an embodiment of this policy. A classic tearoom that first opened in 1903, the over-the-top Belle Epoque interiors create the ambiance for a truly decadent hour (or two) of sweet indulgence. The sculptural cakes and classic patisserie that line the glass cases are the perfect accompaniment to the main event: Angelina's world-renowned hot chocolate. We recommend the Old Style Hot Chocolate, made from a blend of cocoa beans whipped into hot milk and cream for the smoothest, slightly sweet, slightly bitter cup. Angelina also serves up well-executed classic French dishes like croque-madame and quiche Lorraine, but really it's the chocolate—and the people-watching—that makes this Paris institution a favorite with locals and tourists alike.

Pierre Hermé

Pierre Hermé

86 Champs-Elysées, 8th
Mon-Thurs: 10:30am-10:30pm
Fri: 10am-11pm
Sat: 10am-12am
Sun: 10am-10:30pm

A good part of the local population is of the opinion that Pierre Hermé makes the best macarons in the city. As for the éclairs, croissants, and cakes? You'll just have to do the taste-testing for yourself. This particular outpost is massive, with a sumptuous Art Deco interior to match the contents of the pastry cases. A pretty box of Hermé’s delicately-flavored macarons veloutés (essentially meringue-like macaroons stuffed with a creamy filling) never fails to impress and makes for the perfect, easily-packed gift to bring back home.

Shangri-La Hotel

Shangri-La Hotel

10 Ave. d'Iéna, 16th

Beyond the stunning views, the attention to detail is meticulous here, resulting in a luxurious and wonderful stay. More importantly (and unsurprisingly), two of the three on-site restaurants (Shang Palace, L’Abeille) boast Michelin stars.

Four Seasons Hotel George V

Four Seasons Hotel George V

31 Ave. George V, 8th

Built in 1928, this opulent, eight-story hotel—just steps from the Champs Elysée—is pretty much the gold-standard for city-based, luxury hotels. It’s never a bargain, but if your budget can support the splurge, there’s really no better place to stay. Besides the lavishly-appointed rooms, the service is superb, the restaurant boasts three Michelin-stars, and the location is hard to beat.

Hôtel Henriette

Hôtel Henriette

9 Rue des Gobelins, 13th

This boutique hotel is proof that affordable doesn’t necessarily mean scruffy and outdated. Though you won’t find all the creature comforts here, first-time hotelier Vanessa Scoffier has done wonders decorating with a mostly pastel palette, vintage finds, and an overall DIY/Scandi aesthetic. Added benefits, like the super thoughtful concierge service and fresh flowers, do go a long way.

Mama Shelter Paris East

Mama Shelter Paris East

109 Rue de Bagnolet, 20th

Though it’s in the slightly far-flung 20th (which gets cooler every month), Mama Shelter wins big points for its reasonable prices. This burgeoning chainlet—with locations in Lisbon, Lyon, Marseille, and Bourdeaux—is a bit like the Ace Hotel family. The outposts attract a 20-something crowd by offering complimentary Wifi, free movies, and quirky design moments, like ceilings covered with chalkboard scrawl, Minnie Mouse nightlights, and an always-crowded bar.

Amagat

Amagat

23 Villa Riberolle, 20th

At the bottom of Père-Lachaise, this sweet tavern serves a tight menu of tapas and Catalan wines. It’s worth crossing town for the lush and intimate cobblestone courtyard, where we see ourselves spending long summer afternoons eating grilled octopus and French-fry patatas bravas.

Aux Deux Amis

Aux Deux Amis

45 Rue Oberkampf, 11th

Old-school Aux Deux Amis gets shoulder-to-shoulder crowded, so make a reservation or be prepared to squeeze in at the bar to order natural wine and tapas with the masses. The menu changes regularly—expect it might be written by hand and only in French, in which case you can ask your server (or, if you’re at the bar, a new friend) to decipher.

Buttes Snack Bar

Buttes Snack Bar

10 Rue Pradier, 19th
Wed–Fri: 5:30pm–11pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm–12am

The name “snack bar” is misleading; this cozy neighborhood spot is a full-blown natural wine bar with dim lighting and an excellent dinner menu, which changes frequently. Think mussels in harissa bouillon, crispy gochujang chicken wings, tomatoes in lemon caper sauce, and fresh spring asparagus, cooked perfectly.

Fugazi

Fugazi

18 Rue Lacharrière, 11th

This little bistro is popular for good wine, a contemporary menu of well-executed small plates, and terrace seating that’s especially lovely on a summer evening. It draws lively and youngish crowd on weekends.

Furia

Furia

2 Rue Lacharrière, 11th

Furia’s tacos are solidly the best in Paris. There are just six on the menu—including shiitake al pastor, cauliflower tempura, slow-roasted pulled pork, or tuna and shoestring fries. All delicious, although the fresh corn tortillas might be the real highlight. Grab a seven-euro glass—or a 35-euro bottle—from the well-curated list of natural wines and finish the night off with an order of flan and ice cream. Furia doesn’t take reservations, and it gets packed; come early.

Jones

Jones

43 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 11th

At this modern French bistro, you could get away with not looking at the menu at all. The servers are kind and make thoughtful recommendations: this tapa, this dessert, that natural wine. People come for the hot dogs on weekend lunches. Not joking—try one, and you’ll rethink hot dogs entirely. Make reservations; people come back week after week as the menu changes.

Le Bistrot Paul Bert

Le Bistrot Paul Bert

18 Rue Paul Bert, 11th

Bistrot Paul Bert is what any French restaurant ought to be: It features old-school, understated décor; simple but solid food at reasonable prices (including an excellent entrecôte); and brusque waiters. Don’t skip dessert, particularly the not-too-sweet tarte tatin.

Le Cheval d’Or

Le Cheval d’Or

21 Rue de la Villette, 19th Arrondissement

Filipino-Australian chef Hanz Gueco and his team reopened Le Cheval d’Or (which has been here forever) as a high-end fusion spot in 2023. It’s fun and experimental. The menu changes often, but you might find handmade tortellini with mapo ragu, black-vinegar chicken wings, or Sichuan-oil mussels. Natural and biodynamic wines dominate the beverage list, but there are some really good sakes, too.

Mokonuts

Mokonuts

5 Rue St. Bernard, 11th

If you commit to one luncheon in the 11th, make it Mokonuts. Husband and wife Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem serve Lebanese-leaning meals on ceramic dishes so gorgeous, you’ll be sorely tempted to slip one into your purse. This couple does it their own way—Hirayama’s past includes a stint as a lawyer (she used to work baking early morning macaroons at Ladurée before heading to the office), while Koreitem cut his culinary teeth at Daniel in New York City. Nothing at Mokonuts is predictable, not even the cookies: Chocolate chips are traded for fennel, almond, and pickled lemon; coconut is paired with black pepper. Savory dishes are hyperseasonal, and the flavors are out of this world, with many of the spices and ingredients imported from Lebanon: tuna crudo with chermoula; blistered cauliflower smothered in secret sauces; and an exceptionally good artichoke dish. But come early—Mokonuts shutters in the late afternoon, so Hirayama and Koreitem can pick their kids up from school and cook dinner for the family. As we said, they do it their way.

Vantre

Vantre

19 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi, 11th

Vantre is what Frenchie was 15 years ago. Chef Iacopo Chomel and sommelier Marco Pelletier met at Le Bristol's Epicure (after runs at Le Clarence and Le Taillevent, respectively), but despite their fine dining backgrounds, Vantre is relaxed and unpretentious. There are just a handful of seats, and the place is only open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday. You might notice the crowd is full of chefs from other restaurants, who gather here to split a bottle of wine over lunch. Speaking of: At lunch, opt for the set menu, which goes for just 26 euros for an entrée, plat, and dessert, and get whatever bottle the sommelier tells you to.

Folderol

Folderol

10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th

As far as we know, Folderol is the first of its kind: a natural wine bar slash ice cream shop. You order at the counter—there’s always a line—to get a glass of whatever the sommelier recommends and a scoop off the ice cream menu, which changes daily. Kids are welcome.

La Rotonde

La Rotonde

6-8 Place de la Bataille, 19th
Tues-Wed: 5pm-12am
Thus: 5pm-2am
Fri-Sat: 5pm-6am

This restaurant, bar, and nightclub—in an iconic rotunda built by Claude Nicolas Ledoux, the father of Neoclassical architecture—is also smack in the middle of one of the main alternative drags in Paris. Young Parisians flock here for dinner under the cupola and drinks all day in the verdant and colorful terrace garden right on the Place Stalingrad. When it gets late, you can always head back indoors to the Mini Club for some French disco.

Le Perchoir Ménilmontant

Le Perchoir Ménilmontant

14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 11th
Mon–Sat: 6pm–2am
Sun: 4pm–12am

The young team behind this growing concept came up with the genius idea of opening bars in disused spaces all over Paris—on rooftops, at the old Pavillon at the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, and on a houseboat parked on the Seine. Le Perchoir Ménilmontant, located right on top of a large industrial building might just be their greatest conquest to date: In addition to an incredible view and the trademark cocktails, you'll find snacks by their on-site restaurant.

Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 2 Allée de la Cascade, 19th

This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.

Wanderlust

Wanderlust

32 Quai d'Austerlitz, 13th

Situated on the quay of the Docks en Seine—also home to Paris's fashion institute—Wanderlust is a bit more than just a club/bar/restaurant. Though a small part of the enterprise lives indoors, it primarily resides on the sprawling outdoor terrace which overlooks the Seine. Exposed pipes, neon lights, live music (DJs, generally), and a stylish crowd are all hallmarks of this much-buzzed-about destination.

Borgo Delle Tovaglie

Borgo Delle Tovaglie

4 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th
Mon-Fri: 10:30am-4pm
Sat: 11am-6pm

This shop specializes in handmade linens from Bologna. You’ll find stacks of tablecloths and napkins, rows of colorful throw pillows, and beds made up with their super-soft sheets and blankets. Plus a curated selection of baskets, ceramics, drinking glasses, flatware, and furniture. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, it’s a great place to browse. And if you do, it’s an even better place to order a custom set of table linens, curtains, what have you. Even more, Borgo's Italian Bistrot, located inside of the store, is a great place to see the Borgo Delle Tovaglie products in action while enjoying pasta dishes.

Caravane

Caravane

19 Rue St. Nicolas, 12th

With a palette of muted tones, and pieces that look like they belong in a sand-washed cabin on the beach, Caravane is a useful resource for unfussy linens—both for the bed and the table.

French Trotters

French Trotters

30 Rue de Charonne, 11th

Now two locations strong, French Trotters pretty much epitomizes what a great boutique should be: Beyond a host of exclusive collaborations, their buyers manage to zero in on the best and most relevant items from the lines they stock. Everything, from the perfectly turned out Michel Vivien sandals to Jerome Dreyfuss totes, seems like an important wardrobe building block. Meanwhile, don’t miss the very well-priced house label.

Landline

Landline

107 Ave Parmentier, 11th

If you’re looking for small gifts or plastic-free home goods, you’ll find them at Landline. The boutique is carefully laid out, with tables and cubbies full of kitchen ceramics, simple wooden children’s toys, and anything else you might find at a chic general store. It feels distinctly Californian (and still oh-so-Paris).

Cinémathèque Française

Cinémathèque Française

51 Rue de Bercy, 12th
Mon: 12pm-7pm
Wed-Fri: 12pm-7pm
Sat: 11pm-9pm
Sun: 11am-8pm

Built on the collection of co-founder Henri Langlois—who, with the help of friends, managed to smuggle most of his compendium of films out of France before the German Occupation—the Cinématheque Francaise houses one of the largest movie archives in the world. Though it's had a peripatetic existence, it's now housed in a Frank Gehry-designed building. There are exhibitions along with daily screenings of classics (and a restaurant on the ground floor).

Docks en Seine

Docks en Seine

34 Quai d’Austerlitz, 13th

Home to Paris's fashion institute, this rehabbed 1907 warehouse on the Seine—marked by an undulating lime green glass roof—also plays host to exhibition spaces and a handful of boutiques (many of which sell student work). The real draw, though, is the bar/club/rooftop restaurant called Wanderlust on the quay level. It occupies an outdoor terrace where you can catch an open-air screening or just sit in the sun.

La Cité des Sciences

La Cité des Sciences

30 Ave. Corentin Cariou, 19th
Tues-Sat: 9:30am-6pm
Sun: 9:30am-7pm

A planetarium, an aquarium, a submarine, an IMAX theatre? Check and check. The museum covers everything from microbiology to outer space, and the learning is interactive. Plan to spend the whole day here, as it's huge (and fascinating), but avoid the weekends which get annoyingly crowded.

Parc de la Villette

Parc de la Villette

211 Ave. Jean Jaurès, 19th

Sited on a former industrial wasteland (the Parc de la Villette had served as a slaughterhouse since the 19th century until its rehabilitation in the '70s), this expansive cultural venue is the perfect marriage of old and new. Many of the original buildings—including the veterinarian hospital—are now exhibition halls, and 10 themed gardens, many of which are devoted to kids, dot the landscape. All-in, the Parc de la Villette now houses the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, three major concert venues, and the Conservatoire de Paris.

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

1 Rue Botzaris, 19th

Opened in 1864, the Parc des Butte Chaumont was actually a giant public works project: It's called after Chauve-mont, which means bleak hill, because before its makeover, it was actually a dump (as well as a site where they displayed the bodies of hanged criminals). After years of terracing, planting, and construction (everything, from the man-made lake to the cliffs, was molded into shape), the park opened to huge crowds. Beyond just being a lovely place to pass the day (particularly when it's spent drinking wine at Rosa Bonheur), the grotto, waterfalls, and Temple de la Sibylle are big draws—along with a bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel.

Parc Floral de Paris

Parc Floral de Paris

Route de la Pyramide, Bois de Vincennes, 12th

At 2,500 acres (about three times the size of NYC's Central Park) the Bois de Vincennes was ample enough to act as the royal hunting grounds in the 13th and 14th centuries, and serve as the site of most of the events during the 1900 Summer Olympics. 17 years later, Dutch spy Mata Hari would be executed in the park's fortress. But we digress: The Bois de Vincenne's Parc Floral de Paris is one of four botanical gardens in the city, home to 3,000 types of plant (including 650 varieties of Iris). There are peacocks, there's a bonsai garden, and there's an annual jazz festival in the park's amphitheater that draws big crowds.

Père Lachaise Cemetery

Père Lachaise Cemetery

16 Rue du Repos, 20th

Paris's largest (and most historic) cemetery plays home to pretty much everyone you'd ever want to commune with after death: Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Georges-Pierre Seurat, Gertrude Stein, and Édith Piaf all rest here—plots are still available, but the waiting list is long.

La Maison Dr. Hauschka

La Maison Dr. Hauschka

39 Rue de Charonne, 11th
Mon: 2pm-7pm
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm

This is one of those spots that doesn't feel like it could possibly be in a bustling city: Faced with a flowering courtyard, stone walls, and a glass ceiling, La Maison Dr. Hauschka is oh-so-quiet. Fitting really, because the facials and massages are relaxing enough to knock anyone out. Their signature facial, developed by Dr. Hauschka co-founder Elisabeth Sigmund, is two hours of pure bliss—deep cleansing, layers of masks, compresses, and incredibly effective skin care.

Mirz Yoga

Mirz Yoga

145 Rue de Belleville, 19th

Plagued by stomach pains, Marine “Mirz” Parmentier found relief in yoga and became obsessed, leaving her communications job to train in India. She founded Mirz Yoga, where you can take Hatha, Pranayama, and R&B Yoga classes designed for all levels, including prenatal and children.

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