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Parc des Buttes Chaumont

19th Arrondissement, Paris, France

why we love it

Opened in 1864, the Parc des Butte Chaumont was actually a giant public works project: It's called after Chauve-mont, which means bleak hill, because before its makeover, it was actually a dump (as well as a site where they displayed the bodies of hanged criminals). After years of terracing, planting, and construction (everything, from the man-made lake to the cliffs, was molded into shape), the park opened to huge crowds. Beyond just being a lovely place to pass the day (particularly when it's spent drinking wine at Rosa Bonheur), the grotto, waterfalls, and Temple de la Sibylle are big draws—along with a bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel.

Originally featured in The Paris Kids Guide

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Activities

Parc des Buttes Chaumont

1 Rue Botzaris, 19th

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Musée de la Magie

Musée de la Magie

11 Rue St. Paul, 4th
Wed: 2pm-7pm
Sat-Sun: 2pm-7pm

Even though it occupies a 16th-century cellar beneath the Marquis de Sade’s house, the offerings here are thoroughly child-friendly: The museum showcases antique wands and hats, optical illusions, contraptions, and loads of gorgeously rendered posters and prints. And if you have a little one who loves magic, they do a show (in French) that will totally appeal.

Le Jardin des Plantes

Le Jardin des Plantes

57 Rue Cuvier, 5th

First planted in 1635 as a medicinal herb garden by Guy de la Rousse, Louis XIII’s physician, these days Le Jardin des Plantes offers 69 sprawling acres of botanical gardens, scenic trails, and a natural history museum. The highlight, though, is a small zoo, which was founded in 1795, making it the second oldest in the world that’s still in existence (it’s outranked by Tiergarten Schönbrunn in Austria). Once home to animals from Versailles’ royal menagerie, the zoo is now known for its unusual, exotic (and often endangered) species.

La Maison des Contes et des Histoires

La Maison des Contes et des Histoires

7 Rue Pecquay, 4th
Permanently Closed

Tucked away in the Marais, this little art gallery is dedicated to illustrations (both antique and contemporary) along with storytelling for babies and kids up to 13. The exhibitions change every three months, and they pepper the offerings with workshops and outings.

Jardin d'Acclimatation

Jardin d'Acclimatation

Bois de Boulogne, 16th
Mon-Fri: 10am-5pm
Sat: 10am-8pm
Sun: 10am-7pm

Located on the northern edge of the Bois de Boulogne, this kids amusement park features a small farm (it was founded as a zoo), the Exploradôme museum (science), plus a full menu of other attractions, like a mini golf course, trampolines, and a house of mirrors.

Ballon de Paris

Ballon de Paris

Parc André Citroën, 15th

Head to the modern Parc André Citroën and you'll find a moored hot air balloon, which can lift 30 adults (or 60 kids) up above the skyline, offering tremendous views of Paris. This is a prime picnic spot in the summer when the kids can play in the fountains and the modern serial gardens (each is aligned with a different color) are in full bloom. Horticulturists shouldn't miss the two greenhouse pavilions, which are lined with exotic plants.

Sacré-Cœur Basilica

Sacré-Cœur Basilica

35 Rue du Chevalier de la Barre, 18th

Located at the summit of the butte Montmartre—the highest point in the city—a 234-step climb affords spectacular, panoramic views of Paris.

Parc de la Villette

Parc de la Villette

211 Ave. Jean Jaurès, 19th

Sited on a former industrial wasteland (the Parc de la Villette had served as a slaughterhouse since the 19th century until its rehabilitation in the '70s), this expansive cultural venue is the perfect marriage of old and new. Many of the original buildings—including the veterinarian hospital—are now exhibition halls, and 10 themed gardens, many of which are devoted to kids, dot the landscape. All-in, the Parc de la Villette now houses the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, three major concert venues, and the Conservatoire de Paris.

Panthéon

Panthéon

Place du Panthéon, 5th

Modeled after the Pantheon in Rome, this giant mausoleum houses the remains of some of Paris's most famous citizens: Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Jean Monnet, Marie and Pierre Curie, Emile Zola, and as of 2002, Alexandre Dumas. And it was under the central dome that Léon Foucault constructed his pendulum to demonstrate the rotation of the earth (the original now lives in the Musée des Arts et Métiers). In 2007, Jacques Chirac dedicated a plaque in The Pantheon to the thousands of French citizens who harbored Jews during the German occupation, protecting them from concentration camp internment.

La Cité des Sciences

La Cité des Sciences

30 Ave. Corentin Cariou, 19th
Tues-Sat: 9:30am-6pm
Sun: 9:30am-7pm

A planetarium, an aquarium, a submarine, an IMAX theatre? Check and check. The museum covers everything from microbiology to outer space, and the learning is interactive. Plan to spend the whole day here, as it's huge (and fascinating), but avoid the weekends which get annoyingly crowded.

Jardin du Luxembourg

Jardin du Luxembourg

15 Rue de Vaugirard, 6th

One of the prettiest and most popular parks in Paris still feels fairly local. Less traversed by tourists than the Tuileries and with more to do, the Jardin du Luxembourg is where you’ll catch Parisians soaking up the sun in front of the palace, playing chess at public tables, hitting balls on the tennis courts, and challenging one another to lively games of pétanque. And this park really shines when it comes to occupying little kids: Children can sail model boats in the fountains, watch shows at the puppet theatre, or ride donkeys on the vintage carousel. The park sits on the border of the Latin quarter and Saint-Germain—both worth a walk through, but if you have to pick, you should prioritize the latter.

Parc Floral de Paris

Parc Floral de Paris

Route de la Pyramide, Bois de Vincennes, 12th

At 2,500 acres (about three times the size of NYC's Central Park) the Bois de Vincennes was ample enough to act as the royal hunting grounds in the 13th and 14th centuries, and serve as the site of most of the events during the 1900 Summer Olympics. 17 years later, Dutch spy Mata Hari would be executed in the park's fortress. But we digress: The Bois de Vincenne's Parc Floral de Paris is one of four botanical gardens in the city, home to 3,000 types of plant (including 650 varieties of Iris). There are peacocks, there's a bonsai garden, and there's an annual jazz festival in the park's amphitheater that draws big crowds.

Palais de Tokyo

Palais de Tokyo

13 Ave. du Président Wilson, 16th

Thanks to a 2012 expansion which takes the museum all the way to the bank of the Seine, nearly tripling its original size, the open plan Palais de Tokyo is one of the best spots in Europe to see contemporary and modern art. The Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris in the eastern wing houses more than 8,000 works of 20th century art (Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Delauney, etc.) and opens onto a lovely view of the Eiffel Tower. Complete with a comprehensive children's program, artists-in-residence, opening hours that extend until midnight, an excellent bookstore (distinguished by its chain-link fence walls), and restaurants (we like Tokyo Eats), the Palais de Tokyo can easily eat up the better part of a day.

Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle

Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle

36 Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, 5th

While the Jardins des Plantes’ Menagerie houses living endangered species (like red pandas and gaurs), its Natural History Museum houses taxidermy (like dodos and coelacanths), teaching kids and adults alike about the importance of conserving diverse animal life. Highlights include fossils and dinosaur skeletons in the Galerie de Paléontologie et d'Anatomie Comparée and meteorites in the Galerie de Minéralogie et de Géologie.

Centre Pompidou

Centre Pompidou

Place Georges-Pompidou, 4th
Mon: 11am-9pm
Wed: 11am-9pm
Thurs: 11am-11pm
Fri-Sun: 11am-9pm

This postmodern building revolutionized the world of architecture—and turned the rarified concept of a museum into something that could be unintimidating and fun. Designed by Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, and Gianfrancho Franchini, the Centre Pompidou is marked by an exterior lined with colorful tubes that hold the center's plumbing, electric, and circulation systems—inside, it's just as interactive. Home to a public library, a center for music and acoustic research, and the Musee National d’Art Moderne, since its inception in 1977 some of the most important modern art in the world has graced its walls, including pieces from Dali, Pollock, Warhol, and Picasso.

La Rôtisserie

La Rôtisserie

19 Quai de la Tournelle, 5th

It’s casual and cozy here, which is the perfect backdrop for the rural French food on offer. We come for the delicious roast chicken on Sundays; since most restaurants are closed, it can get quite busy, but in a low-key convivial way. Ask for a table by the window overlooking the Seine.

Le Comptoir du Relais

Le Comptoir du Relais

9 Carrefour de l'Odéon, 6th

If you find yourself with time alone, grab one of the single-occupancy tables outside, which face onto the small square; that said, if you’re saddled with the little ones, this spot is blessedly kid-friendly, too. A bottle of red and the boeuf bourguignon—served with lemon rind, pasta, and pine nuts—is the meal to get here.

Chez Savy

Chez Savy

23 Rue Bayard, 8th

Situated right off the Avenue Montaigne, this tiny bistro is laid out like an old-school dining car with cozy booths, vintage luggage racks, and mirrored walls in lieu of windows. As for the rest of the decor, expect to see lots of original Art Deco elements (stained glass, frieze ceiling) left over from a time when Savy was a Jazz Age hotspot. The cuisine is traditional French (foie gras, lentil soup, andouillette sausage) and the portions are generous.

Le Café du Commerce Barbes

Le Café du Commerce Barbes

13 Rue de Clignancourt, 18th

Smack in the middle of Montmartre, this is a perfect quick pit stop for salads, roast chicken, and côte de boeuf—at great prices.

Les Cocottes

Les Cocottes

135 Rue St. Dominique, 7th

The only thing that outshines Les Cocottes’ brilliant use of glass jars and Staub cast-iron cocottes is the menu itself. The restaurant offers a robust offering of salads, soups, and mains that satisfy without breaking the bank. Consider making a reservation because there’s almost always a wait—which isn’t bad, as it’s conveniently located near the Champ de Mars and the Eiffel Tower.

Nanashi

Nanashi

57 Rue Charlot, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 12pm-3pm, 7:30pm-11pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm-4pm, 7:30pm-11pm

Rose Bakery alum Kaori Endo’s creative spin on traditional, Japanese bento boxes is a huge hit in Paris—and she has a mini-chainlet of restaurants to prove it. We like the Marais location best, as its bigger than her original spot in the 10th. There’s a grocery and takeaway in the front, and a handful of tables in the back, where you can feast on really beautiful plates of veggies, carefully prepared meat and fish, chirashis, and soup. There is also another location in the 10th.

Ladurée

Ladurée

75 Ave. des Champs Elysées, 8th

Thanks to loads of press and a swift global expansion in 2005 (there are now outposts in New York, London, Lebanon, Japan, Sweden, Hong Kong, Brazil, Los Angeles, and more), the Ladurée celadon green is almost as iconic as Tiffany blue or Hermès orange. It all started in 1862 at 16 rue Royale, when writer Louis Ernest Ladurée opened a pastry shop. Though macarons had been kicking around France since the sixteenth century, when Catherine de Medici introduced them from Italy, Ladurée’s grandson revolutionized the concept in 1930 by using a bit of ganache to create a macaron sandwich. Beyond sweets, Ladurée's dinner service is great, with a kid-friendly menu that adults can enjoy, too. Although the original Ladurée is a fixture on the Champs-Elysées, there are multiple locations throughout the city to enjoy.

Sacha Finkelsztajn La Boutique Jaune

Sacha Finkelsztajn La Boutique Jaune

27 Rue des Rosiers, 4th
Wed-Thurs: 10am-6pm
Fri-Sat: 10am-7pm
Sun: 10:30am-7pm

Since 1946, the Finkelsztajn family has been holding down this yellow-fronted deli, which is known citywide for its rugelach, challah, strudels, bagels, and cheesecake. We go for the pastrami sandwich, which involves cucumber, tomatoes, pickles, and pepper caviar on a perfectly delicate poppy seed covered roll.

Eggs and Co.

Eggs and Co.

11 Rue Bernard Palissy, 6th
Mon-Tues: 10am-4pm
Thurs-Fri: 10am-4pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-6pm

Paris is not a brunch place, which means that this cheery, wood-beam lined spot is aggressively slammed on weekends. Go during the week: While they offer every conceivable iteration of egg dish, we like the Coco Meurette best. It features poached eggs submerged in a dreamy red wine and mushroom sauce.

Le Bonbon au Palais

Le Bonbon au Palais

19 Rue Monge, 5th

Styled to look like a 1950s classroom, Georges Marques’s shop offers hundreds of candies sourced from all over France. It’s kind of an amazing way to take a geography lesson, really, particularly because Georges is happy to lead willing students on a tour of the country’s various candy-producing zones. Everything—from the candied fruits to pastilles to calissons to chocolate—is arranged in old-fashioned apothecary jars.

Lina’s Café

Lina’s Café

50 Rue Etienne Marcel, 2nd

Lina's is a chain but you wouldn’t know it, biting into their famous turkey club. Fresh and delicious, it’s the perfect inexpensive meal to have while walking through the streets of Paris. There are also two locations in the 8th: One on Rue Marbeuf and one on Boulevard Malesherbes.

Berthillon

Berthillon

31 Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île, 4th

Operating out of a little window stand on the Isle St. Louis, the ice creams and sorbets here justify the sometimes long lines. After all, it’s arguably the best in Paris. Enough said.

Monoprix

Monoprix

71 Rue St. Antoine, 4th
Mon-Sat: 9am-9:50pm
Sun: 9am-7:20pm

This is so much more than a grocery store: In fact, in true French fashion, it does simple clothing—streamlined totes, striped tees—really, really well. And at prices you’d expect from a supermarket. The baby selection is particularly sweet.

Bonpoint

Bonpoint

6 Rue de Tournon, 6th

You might cringe when your Bonpoint-clad kid heads to the playground on a muddy day, but no matter: While the pricetags are admittedly steep, the quality is so high, these perfectly-turned out pinafore dresses and sweet little corduroy pants can take a beating. Meanwhile, their embroidered slippers and glittery flats are so sweet they’ll send your ovaries into overdrive.

Bonton

Bonton

82 Rue de Grenelle, 7th

Launched by the son of the founders of Bonpoint, Bonton is styled like a department store for minis: Heart shaped cushions, bedside lamps cast in the shape of geese, knitted rattles, strawberry-printed crib sheets, stationery, tutus, and toys mingle with the house line of solid (and adorable) basics. Beyond baby shower gifts and souvenirs for little ones back home, this is an excellent pitstop if you have kids in tow. After all, there’s an in-store hair salon and a retro photo booth. There are also locations in the 3rd, Le Bon Marché, and Galeries Lafayette.

Pain d'Epice

Pain d'Epice

29 Passage Jouffroy, 9th
Mon: 12:30pm-7pm
Tues-Sat: 10am-7pm

If you have a young collector on your hands, look no further: This old-world spot is an amazing resource for dollhouse furniture.

Centre Commercial Kids

Centre Commercial Kids

22 Rue Yves Toudic, 10th
Mon-Sat: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sun: 2pm-7pm

Fittingly tiny, this packed-to-the-rafters shop is lined with kids clothing from up-and-coming European designers. Union Jack-emblazoned booties, tulle skirts flecked with sequins, and wee gingham shirts are as appealing to parents as they are to little ones. It's the counterpart to the main, Centre Commercial.

Baudou

Baudou

7 Rue de Solferino, 7th

Stuffed animal taxidermy, carefully turned-out cribs, incredibly chic rocking horses, kids wallpapers you wouldn't mind hanging in your living room, and wooden toys galore round out the mix at this baby-themed newcomer. Even if you're not in the mood to ship a toddler bed back home, there's plenty of packable treasures to tempt.

Zef

Zef

32 Rue de Richelieu, 1st

You'll wish everything at Zef came in cuts for adults (if you're the size of a teenager, you're in luck), whether it's a star-print sweatshirt, an elbow patch adorned sweater, or a sheepskin jacket. Owned by the daughter of fashion photographer Paolo Roversi, there are no mis-steps here: In fact you'll want your kids to stop growing so they can wear this stuff forever. The range runs from newborn to 16-years. There are also locations in the 6th, 7th, and 16th.

Paul & Joe

Paul & Joe

64-66 Rue des St. Pères, 7th

Launched in the '80s—and named for owner Sophie Albou's two sons—this much-loved French brand traffics in a girly-meets-modern sensibility. We love the floor-skimming, floral-print gowns and flippy little skirts, which are great for both moms and their daughters.

Wowo

Wowo

59 Rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, 3rd

Small and sweet, this kids boutique stocks pieces you won't find anywhere else, like embroidered tunic dresses, muslin skirts finished with fluoro tassles, and pillows sewn into the shape of the Eiffel Tower.

Petit Pan

Petit Pan

76 Rue François Miron, 4th
Mon: 10:30am-1pm, 2pm-7:30pm
Tues-Sun: 10:30am-7:30pm

Owned by Belgian artist Myriam De Loor and Chinese kitemaker Pan Gang, Petit Pan revolves around delicately patterned—and exuberantly colored—textiles, haberdashery, clothing, and home goods. There are oilcloth bibs, intricate little mobiles made from bamboo and silk, baby quilts, pendant lights, and even ceramic tiles, which are from a recent collaboration with Carocim (they've teamed up with Monoprix and Petit Bateau in the past). They also offer crafting workshops for kids where they can learn various trades like ceramics, textile design, sewing, and kite-making.

La Piñata

La Piñata

25 Rue des Vinaigriers, 10th
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm
Sun: 3pm-7pm

When Columbian-born owner Elena Farah moved to Paris more than two decades ago, she noticed a gap in the kid's party market, notably that there was no place in the city to score a piñata. She resolved to learn how to make them in every conceivable shape, and now employs a handful of inmates to help her turn out custom orders. Beyond piñatas, you'll find loads of little trinkets to fill them with, along with balloons, party supplies, and other bits of themed décor.

Petit Bateau

Petit Bateau

116 Ave. des Champs-Élysée, 8th
Mon-Sat: 10am-9pm
Sun: 12pm-8pm

Sure, you can get Petit Bateau across the globe, but the Paris flagships have the full range of baby goods, including the basics, which are much more affordable in Paris than they are in the States. This is a good place to stock up on shower gifts, too. There are locations all over the city, but their outpost in the 8th is nice and central (for minimal shopping bag schlepping).

Deyrolle

Deyrolle

46 Rue du Bac, 7th
Mon: 10am-1pm, 2pm-7pm
Tues-Sat: 10am-7pm

A devastating fire nearly destroyed Deyrolle in 2008, sending nearly 90 percent of its rarefied inventory up in smoke. Everyone rallied: Customers donated animals purchased in years past back; Christie's held an auction; Hermes reissued their "Plume" scarf to raise funds; and ultimately Deyrolle reopened its doors to a collective sigh of relief. Founded in 1831, it's one of the most special stores in the world, after all, since it's essentially a shoppable natural history museum. As you move past the gardening boutique that occupies the ground floor and climb the stairs, you'll come face to face with lions, tiger, bears, and thousands of exotic birds, butterflies, and beetles—all carefully preserved, and even more meticulously displayed. We love the reissues of the 19th century pedagogical prints (horse breeds, the anatomy of the eye, the trees of France), which are more affordable—and packable—than a giraffe.

Papier Tigre

Papier Tigre

5 Rue des Filles du Calvaire, 3rd
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-7:30pm
Sat: 11am-8pm
Sun: 1:30pm-7pm

You'd know a Papier Tigre notebook (or envelope or calendar or day planner) if you saw one. They're all distinctly colorful and geometric and always totally utilitarian. Another bonus of buying paper goods in bulk to hand out to friends back home? They don't take up much suitcase space at all, and they make recipients giddy with glee.

Haven In Paris

Haven In Paris

This is like a luxury Airbnb. Beyond corralling really nice house stays, they offer other concierge services like drivers, babysitters, tours, and more. Their blog is full of great city-wide recommendations. They’re based in the states, which makes the customer service piece leading up to the trip a total breeze.

Le Bristol

Le Bristol

112 Rue du Faubourg St. Honoré, 8th

This family-run hotel has been around just shy of a century, and while all the old-world hospitality rituals are observed (super-attentive staff, pristine interiors) it’s the modern luxuries, like a La Prairie spa, and three Chef Eric Frechon-helmed restaurants (two of which tout Michelin stars) that make it one of the best in the city. What’s more, the recently renovated rooms are uncharacteristically spacious for Paris and the suites are downright sprawling. The pool, epic play room, and lush courtyard are almost as popular with the littlest guests as the resident Burmese cats, Fa-Raon and Kléopatre.

Hôtel Henriette

Hôtel Henriette

9 Rue des Gobelins, 13th

This boutique hotel is proof that affordable doesn’t necessarily mean scruffy and outdated. Though you won’t find all the creature comforts here, first-time hotelier Vanessa Scoffier has done wonders decorating with a mostly pastel palette, vintage finds, and an overall DIY/Scandi aesthetic. Added benefits, like the super thoughtful concierge service and fresh flowers, do go a long way.

Mama Shelter Paris East

Mama Shelter Paris East

109 Rue de Bagnolet, 20th

Though it’s in the slightly far-flung 20th (which gets cooler every month), Mama Shelter wins big points for its reasonable prices. This burgeoning chainlet—with locations in Lisbon, Lyon, Marseille, and Bourdeaux—is a bit like the Ace Hotel family. The outposts attract a 20-something crowd by offering complimentary Wifi, free movies, and quirky design moments, like ceilings covered with chalkboard scrawl, Minnie Mouse nightlights, and an always-crowded bar.

Amagat

Amagat

23 Villa Riberolle, 20th

At the bottom of Père-Lachaise, this sweet tavern serves a tight menu of tapas and Catalan wines. It’s worth crossing town for the lush and intimate cobblestone courtyard, where we see ourselves spending long summer afternoons eating grilled octopus and French-fry patatas bravas.

Aux Deux Amis

Aux Deux Amis

45 Rue Oberkampf, 11th

Old-school Aux Deux Amis gets shoulder-to-shoulder crowded, so make a reservation or be prepared to squeeze in at the bar to order natural wine and tapas with the masses. The menu changes regularly—expect it might be written by hand and only in French, in which case you can ask your server (or, if you’re at the bar, a new friend) to decipher.

Buttes Snack Bar

Buttes Snack Bar

10 Rue Pradier, 19th
Wed–Fri: 5:30pm–11pm
Sat-Sun: 12pm–12am

The name “snack bar” is misleading; this cozy neighborhood spot is a full-blown natural wine bar with dim lighting and an excellent dinner menu, which changes frequently. Think mussels in harissa bouillon, crispy gochujang chicken wings, tomatoes in lemon caper sauce, and fresh spring asparagus, cooked perfectly.

Clamato

Clamato

80 Rue de Charonne, 11th

While it's nearly impossible to get a reservation at Septime—and a bar stool at the wine bar is hard to come by, too—you’ll probably have better luck at the owners' venture, Clamato, a seafood-centric joint that doesn't take reservations. Also, it’s open all day on Saturday and Sunday, which is a rarity in Paris.

Fugazi

Fugazi

18 Rue Lacharrière, 11th

This little bistro is popular for good wine, a contemporary menu of well-executed small plates, and terrace seating that’s especially lovely on a summer evening. It draws lively and youngish crowd on weekends.

Furia

Furia

2 Rue Lacharrière, 11th

Furia’s tacos are solidly the best in Paris. There are just six on the menu—including shiitake al pastor, cauliflower tempura, slow-roasted pulled pork, or tuna and shoestring fries. All delicious, although the fresh corn tortillas might be the real highlight. Grab a seven-euro glass—or a 35-euro bottle—from the well-curated list of natural wines and finish the night off with an order of flan and ice cream. Furia doesn’t take reservations, and it gets packed; come early.

Jones

Jones

43 Rue Godefroy Cavaignac, 11th

At this modern French bistro, you could get away with not looking at the menu at all. The servers are kind and make thoughtful recommendations: this tapa, this dessert, that natural wine. People come for the hot dogs on weekend lunches. Not joking—try one, and you’ll rethink hot dogs entirely. Make reservations; people come back week after week as the menu changes.

Le Bistrot Paul Bert

Le Bistrot Paul Bert

18 Rue Paul Bert, 11th

Bistrot Paul Bert is what any French restaurant ought to be: It features old-school, understated décor; simple but solid food at reasonable prices (including an excellent entrecôte); and brusque waiters. Don’t skip dessert, particularly the not-too-sweet tarte tatin.

Le Chateaubriand

Le Chateaubriand

129 Ave. Parmentier, 11th
Wed-Fri: 7pm-11pm
Sat: 12pm-2pm, 7pm-11pm

The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table.

Le Cheval d’Or

Le Cheval d’Or

21 Rue de la Villette, 19th Arrondissement

Filipino-Australian chef Hanz Gueco and his team reopened Le Cheval d’Or (which has been here forever) as a high-end fusion spot in 2023. It’s fun and experimental. The menu changes often, but you might find handmade tortellini with mapo ragu, black-vinegar chicken wings, or Sichuan-oil mussels. Natural and biodynamic wines dominate the beverage list, but there are some really good sakes, too.

Le Dauphin

Le Dauphin

131 Ave. Parmentier, 11th
Tues: 7pm-11pm
Wed-Fri: 12pm-2pm, 7pm-11pm
Sat: 7pm-11pm

Le Dauphin is immediately next door to its sister restaurant, Le Chateaubriand. Locals hover around the marbled bar (there are only a handful of tables) for well-priced—though complex—small plates and surprisingly affordable wine.

Le Servan

Le Servan

32 Rue St. Maur, 11th
Mon-Fri:12pm-2pm, 7:30pm-10:30pm
Sat: 7:30pm-10:30pm

Parisian dining has a reputation for being a little stodgy at times, what with the ubiquitous gilded interiors and price fixe-only menu—but at Le Servan in the 11th, you’ll find neither. Instead, chef Tatiana Levha, and her sister, Katia, offer up a short but sweet a la carte menu of Asian-inspired classics that changes pretty much daily. As for decor, it’s all neutral, with a brass-top bar. Walk-ins fare well at lunch, but make a reservation for dinner.

Mokonuts

Mokonuts

5 Rue St. Bernard, 11th

If you commit to one luncheon in the 11th, make it Mokonuts. Husband and wife Moko Hirayama and Omar Koreitem serve Lebanese-leaning meals on ceramic dishes so gorgeous, you’ll be sorely tempted to slip one into your purse. This couple does it their own way—Hirayama’s past includes a stint as a lawyer (she used to work baking early morning macaroons at Ladurée before heading to the office), while Koreitem cut his culinary teeth at Daniel in New York City. Nothing at Mokonuts is predictable, not even the cookies: Chocolate chips are traded for fennel, almond, and pickled lemon; coconut is paired with black pepper. Savory dishes are hyperseasonal, and the flavors are out of this world, with many of the spices and ingredients imported from Lebanon: tuna crudo with chermoula; blistered cauliflower smothered in secret sauces; and an exceptionally good artichoke dish. But come early—Mokonuts shutters in the late afternoon, so Hirayama and Koreitem can pick their kids up from school and cook dinner for the family. As we said, they do it their way.

Ober Mamma

Ober Mamma

107 Blvd. Richard Lenoir, 11th
Mon-Wed: 12pm-2:30pm, 6:45pm-10:45pm
Thurs-Fri: 12pm-2:30pm, 6:30pm-10:45pm
Sat: 12pm-3:30pm, 6:30pm-10:45pm
Sun: 12pm-3:30pm, 6:45pm-10:45pm

This is a true trattoria in the middle of Paris, with great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size—these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time with long electric-blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian round tables. Expect a tight squeeze: This place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.

Septime

Septime

80 Rue de Charonne, 11th

The chefs behind Septime seem to understand that you can’t fail when you start with the best fresh ingredients. This isn’t to say that the cool, pared-back space isn’t innovative—it just isn’t flashy.

Vantre

Vantre

19 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi, 11th

Vantre is what Frenchie was 15 years ago. Chef Iacopo Chomel and sommelier Marco Pelletier met at Le Bristol's Epicure (after runs at Le Clarence and Le Taillevent, respectively), but despite their fine dining backgrounds, Vantre is relaxed and unpretentious. There are just a handful of seats, and the place is only open for lunch and dinner Monday through Friday. You might notice the crowd is full of chefs from other restaurants, who gather here to split a bottle of wine over lunch. Speaking of: At lunch, opt for the set menu, which goes for just 26 euros for an entrée, plat, and dessert, and get whatever bottle the sommelier tells you to.

Folderol

Folderol

10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th

As far as we know, Folderol is the first of its kind: a natural wine bar slash ice cream shop. You order at the counter—there’s always a line—to get a glass of whatever the sommelier recommends and a scoop off the ice cream menu, which changes daily. Kids are welcome.

La Rotonde

La Rotonde

6-8 Place de la Bataille, 19th
Tues-Wed: 5pm-12am
Thus: 5pm-2am
Fri-Sat: 5pm-6am

This restaurant, bar, and nightclub—in an iconic rotunda built by Claude Nicolas Ledoux, the father of Neoclassical architecture—is also smack in the middle of one of the main alternative drags in Paris. Young Parisians flock here for dinner under the cupola and drinks all day in the verdant and colorful terrace garden right on the Place Stalingrad. When it gets late, you can always head back indoors to the Mini Club for some French disco.

Le Perchoir Ménilmontant

Le Perchoir Ménilmontant

14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 11th
Mon–Sat: 6pm–2am
Sun: 4pm–12am

The young team behind this growing concept came up with the genius idea of opening bars in disused spaces all over Paris—on rooftops, at the old Pavillon at the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, and on a houseboat parked on the Seine. Le Perchoir Ménilmontant, located right on top of a large industrial building might just be their greatest conquest to date: In addition to an incredible view and the trademark cocktails, you'll find snacks by their on-site restaurant.

Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur

Parc des Buttes Chaumont, 2 Allée de la Cascade, 19th

This spot is named for the nineteenth-century painter Rosa Bonheur, the first woman to become an officer of the Legion of Honour, whose paintings of horses and cows grace the walls of the Louvre and New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. While Bonheur used the then-wilds of the Bois de Boulogne to find animals to paint, this Rosa Bonheur is situated in the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, a beautiful garden in the 19th. The emphasis here is on day-drinking, really, though it gets overly packed as the night wears on. It serves great appetizers, plus it's laid-back, unpretentious, and kid-friendly. Should you stay past 10 p.m., expect to follow the crowd onto the dance floor.

Septime La Cave

Septime La Cave

3 Rue Basfroi, 11th

While you can take your low-sulfite wine to go at this former shoe repair shop, you can also grab a seat at the bar and snack while you drink: Sausages, anchovies, and cheese all get the Septime treatment here.

Wanderlust

Wanderlust

32 Quai d'Austerlitz, 13th

Situated on the quay of the Docks en Seine—also home to Paris's fashion institute—Wanderlust is a bit more than just a club/bar/restaurant. Though a small part of the enterprise lives indoors, it primarily resides on the sprawling outdoor terrace which overlooks the Seine. Exposed pipes, neon lights, live music (DJs, generally), and a stylish crowd are all hallmarks of this much-buzzed-about destination.

Borgo Delle Tovaglie

Borgo Delle Tovaglie

4 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th
Mon-Fri: 10:30am-4pm
Sat: 11am-6pm

This shop specializes in handmade linens from Bologna. You’ll find stacks of tablecloths and napkins, rows of colorful throw pillows, and beds made up with their super-soft sheets and blankets. Plus a curated selection of baskets, ceramics, drinking glasses, flatware, and furniture. If you don’t know what you’re looking for, it’s a great place to browse. And if you do, it’s an even better place to order a custom set of table linens, curtains, what have you. Even more, Borgo's Italian Bistrot, located inside of the store, is a great place to see the Borgo Delle Tovaglie products in action while enjoying pasta dishes.

Caravane

Caravane

19 Rue St. Nicolas, 12th

With a palette of muted tones, and pieces that look like they belong in a sand-washed cabin on the beach, Caravane is a useful resource for unfussy linens—both for the bed and the table.

French Trotters

French Trotters

30 Rue de Charonne, 11th

Now two locations strong, French Trotters pretty much epitomizes what a great boutique should be: Beyond a host of exclusive collaborations, their buyers manage to zero in on the best and most relevant items from the lines they stock. Everything, from the perfectly turned out Michel Vivien sandals to Jerome Dreyfuss totes, seems like an important wardrobe building block. Meanwhile, don’t miss the very well-priced house label.

Landline

Landline

107 Ave Parmentier, 11th

If you’re looking for small gifts or plastic-free home goods, you’ll find them at Landline. The boutique is carefully laid out, with tables and cubbies full of kitchen ceramics, simple wooden children’s toys, and anything else you might find at a chic general store. It feels distinctly Californian (and still oh-so-Paris).

Marché d’Aligre

Marché d’Aligre

Rue d'Aligre, 12th
Tues-Fri: 7:30am-1:30pm
Sat-Sun: 7:30am-2:30pm

Occupying an old-world, village-like square, this market near the Bastille bustles with locals stocking up on their weekly groceries. When you need to catch your breath, head to Le Baron Rouge, a great wine bar just around the corner.

Cinémathèque Française

Cinémathèque Française

51 Rue de Bercy, 12th
Mon: 12pm-7pm
Wed-Fri: 12pm-7pm
Sat: 11pm-9pm
Sun: 11am-8pm

Built on the collection of co-founder Henri Langlois—who, with the help of friends, managed to smuggle most of his compendium of films out of France before the German Occupation—the Cinématheque Francaise houses one of the largest movie archives in the world. Though it's had a peripatetic existence, it's now housed in a Frank Gehry-designed building. There are exhibitions along with daily screenings of classics (and a restaurant on the ground floor).

Docks en Seine

Docks en Seine

34 Quai d’Austerlitz, 13th

Home to Paris's fashion institute, this rehabbed 1907 warehouse on the Seine—marked by an undulating lime green glass roof—also plays host to exhibition spaces and a handful of boutiques (many of which sell student work). The real draw, though, is the bar/club/rooftop restaurant called Wanderlust on the quay level. It occupies an outdoor terrace where you can catch an open-air screening or just sit in the sun.

Père Lachaise Cemetery

Père Lachaise Cemetery

16 Rue du Repos, 20th

Paris's largest (and most historic) cemetery plays home to pretty much everyone you'd ever want to commune with after death: Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Georges-Pierre Seurat, Gertrude Stein, and Édith Piaf all rest here—plots are still available, but the waiting list is long.

La Maison Dr. Hauschka

La Maison Dr. Hauschka

39 Rue de Charonne, 11th
Mon: 2pm-7pm
Tues-Sat: 11am-7pm

This is one of those spots that doesn't feel like it could possibly be in a bustling city: Faced with a flowering courtyard, stone walls, and a glass ceiling, La Maison Dr. Hauschka is oh-so-quiet. Fitting really, because the facials and massages are relaxing enough to knock anyone out. Their signature facial, developed by Dr. Hauschka co-founder Elisabeth Sigmund, is two hours of pure bliss—deep cleansing, layers of masks, compresses, and incredibly effective skin care.

Mirz Yoga

Mirz Yoga

145 Rue de Belleville, 19th

Plagued by stomach pains, Marine “Mirz” Parmentier found relief in yoga and became obsessed, leaving her communications job to train in India. She founded Mirz Yoga, where you can take Hatha, Pranayama, and R&B Yoga classes designed for all levels, including prenatal and children.

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