Il Tramezzino

The colonnaded entryway of the Beverly Wilshire sits at the bottom—or the top, depending how you look at it—of Los Angeles’s most storied street, Rodeo Drive. It’s fair to say that this imposing, old-Hollywood hotel is the grande dame of Beverly Hills, and deservedly so. Informality is not the vibe here. The glamorous BLVD Lounge with its impeccable service and martini-sipping crowd has a way of making you sit a little straighter. After a sound night’s sleep on the cloud-soft beds that we’ve come to expect at Four Seasons properties and maybe a few laps in the Tuscan-inspired pool, we head to the spa. The menu is the length of a book and, because this is LA, packed with esoteric treatments, like cryotherapy and targeted postsurgery massages. The room service is excellent, and again because we’re in LA, there are plenty of healthy options that cater to every diet (we’re partial to a celery juice and the savory tofu porridge). Downstairs, Wolfgang Puck’s CUT is the steakhouse to end all steakhouses. For those venturing to Los Angeles for the first time—especially with kids in tow—the concierge at the Wilshire knows the city inside and out, and no request is asking too much.

Plush Spanish colonial décor blends well with high-tech features and five-star splendor to make this a slick but overwhelmingly comfortable stay. The elegant Terrace space (perfect for an afternoon tipple and currently open), Cigar Bar, and Maybourne Bar add a pop of London pizzazz to Beverly Hills. For this much luxury, expect a luxury room rate—and it’s worth every cent.

It feels like every time we loop through Culver City, the cityscape has changed. Literally. New towers and rooftops and parking lots are quickly swallowing up desirable chunks of real estate surrounding Platform. We craned our necks, parked the car, and rushed into the lobby when we saw that one of these new structures was a Palihotel. Tucked behind the ArcLight, the Art Deco forty-nine-roomer is a stunner. Guest rooms are dressed up in cozy tartans, warm woods, and clean white subway tiles with the kind of contemporary art and photography you wish were shoppable. Restaurant Simonette echoes a swish French brasserie, and the bar and lounge areas are retro and so cool. The mid-century modern sofas demand a faceplant, or at least some postwork wine with a colleague, and the inner courtyard—shaded by a lone, towering tree—is one of the most serene in the city.

From the branded BMWs to the impeccably attentive service, the Peninsula's Beverly Hills outpost is every bit as grand and luxurious as you'd expect. You'll find marble bathrooms; soft, cozy beds; and patios in each room. Only a few blocks from Rodeo Drive and easy walking distance from Century City, it's within striking distance of all the major agencies and many of the big studios, making it an easy pick for a business hotel. If you're in town for leisure, plan to spend some time dining poolside on the rooftop (which, since this is LA, is open year-round).

Occupying an entire block on South Doheny, this expansive hotel makes for a plush refuge just minutes from Rodeo Drive. The lobby is, in a word, swanky: all marble floors, high-pile oriental rugs, mirrored accents, and towering floral displays. Off of it, you’ll find the Lounge (this is your spot for cocktails and light bites—all excellent, but they do a really killer martini). Beyond that is Culina, the on-site Italian restaurant: Sit outside and order the tuna crudo and the Neapolitan-style pizza (specifically, the cacio e pepe with truffle paste and honey).

Let Destroyer’s aggressive name be the first indication that this tiny spot, located in Culver City’s design district, Hayden Tract, takes breakfast and lunch fare pretty seriously. White walls and factory windows lend the bright, sixteen-seat space a familiar minimalist feel, but the menu is full of inventive Scandinavian-style fare from chef Jordan Kahn. The surprisingly affordable (and frequently updated) menu has included everything from Icelandic rye bread with cultured butter and preserves to a waffle-cone-shaped beef tartare wrapped in a crispy parsnip. They also serve pretty great coffee and tea.

Chef Evan Funke became a household name in LA for his saucy, cheesy tonnarelli and salt-flaked sfincione at Felix. At his eponymous restaurant Funke, you’ll find some of his greatest hits from Felix (and from Mother Wolf), plus dishes inspired by the chef’s travels through Bologna: ultra-thin tagliatelle, chewy orecchiette, and a beloved plate of pork-stuffed agnolotti. The dining room is a little kitsch, sure, but that’s part of the magic: If you’re lucky, you’ll land a spot near Evan Funke’s glassed-in “laboratory” and watch the master pull pasta by hand.

At Hatchet Hall has been helmed over the years by chefs Brian Dunsmoor and Michelin-star-winning chef Wes Whitsell. There's an outdoor patio in the front that leads into the restaurant, which begins as airy and light, and becomes darker (in a handsome, cozy way) as you continue deeper into its rooms. The menu rotates but you can expect dishes like yellowtail tartare with lemon aioli, grilled flat breads, roasted game hen, brilliant grilled veggie sides, and of course oysters. Also worth noting: Hatchet Hall serves Sunday brunch. The back of the restaurant houses Old Man Bar—it looks as brooding as you'd expect, but it's also beautiful, and it serves up noteworthy serious cocktails from 6pm to 1am.

The "No Cell Phone" sign at the door sets the tone for a meal focused on melt-in-your-mouth sushi made by one serious chef. While he presents seasonal highlights and rare cuts (among other delights, we sampled a buttery escolar with a light garlic glaze, and kinka-saba, a thinly sliced, sweet Mackerel from northern Japan) his warm and welcoming wife Miyo gives the low-down on each dish. She's happy to add that she doesn't actually like sushi unless it's made by her husband—apparently his is the only technique to trust. The unusual cuts of fresh fish and the subtle twists to the traditional format, like using warm rice to contrast with the cold fish and adding sesame seeds to the typical tuna sashimi starter's ponzu sauce for crunch, make all the difference.

Inspired by the aromatic wood of Tokyo, the walls of this beautiful, organic-looking restaurant (named after a favorite scent by Comme des Garçons) are lined with fragrant cedar and one of the most popular dishes, the black cod, is infused tableside with hinoki smoke. The Asian-inspired menu by chef Brandon Kida (who came to Hinoki from Clement at the Peninsula in New York) incorporates the fresh, healthy Californian fare, including a raved about lobster roll and kale salad.

At glam and dimly-lit La Dolce Vita, you’re looking at a menu of Italian-American classics: dry martinis, strip steaks, and spaghetti bathed in red sauce and parmesan-dusted meatballs. It’s all impressively good without reinventing the wheel, and the service is excellent.

A classic Beverly Hills lunch spot, this place has the best chopped salad, which they do Italian-style and allow you to modify it to your liking from a long list of fresh items. They also have a large selection of antipasti, soups, panini, fresh, homemade pastas and more. It's been around forever and probably always will be. There's another, less-buzzy (read: quieter) outpost in Brentwood.

At his celebrated Beverly Hills restaurant Maude (which is currently one of the hardest reservations to snag in Los Angeles), Curtis Stone and his team create an elaborate tasting menu centered around one seasonal ingredient every month. So if you come in during, say, Radish Month, the veggie will be incorporated in some way into each of the nine courses. The restaurant is named after Stone’s grandmother, and is lovingly decked out with antique linens and dishes as a homage to her kitchen.

Nate 'n Al's in Beverly Hills the place to go for authentic Jewish deli food. You'll feel like you're stepping back into the '60s when you walk through the door. Bagels, turkey sandwiches on rye, matzo ball soup, are all givens—quality cold cuts and fresh bread make the sandwiches truly delicious.

It's hard to score a ticket to reservation-only n/naka, which books up to three months in advance. But it's popularity (and price tag) is justified by the truly first-rate food experience you get there—this is a special occasion kind of place. Run by renowned chef Niki Nakayama, who was profiled in Netflix's docu-series Chef's Table, n/naka offers two different thirteen-course omakase dinners—one of which is vegetarian friendly. (You choose between the two tastings a couple weeks before your reservation.) The restaurant focuses on using local, organic, and seasonal ingredients—they actually have their own organic farm with urban farming venture, Farmscape Gardens. You won't be able to predict your exact tasting, but don't expect traditional sashimi. Each course is a modern take on Japanese dishes, with plenty of unexpected ingredients (like pasta) that Nakayama makes work (really well).

When the legendary Nozawa closed its doors, it sent shockwaves through the LA sushi scene. (On its last day, fans lined up down the block for a final Tokyo-style meal from legendary Chef Nozawa—known as the original "Sushi Nazi.") Luckily, it's now reincarnated in the form of Nozawa Bar. Though no longer in a strip mall, it remains true to the same no-frills attitude. Walk through Sugarfish (the chef's hyper-efficient chain) on North Cañon Drive and into the bar, headed up by Chef Fujita, Nozawa's charming and friendly sushi prodigy. The set menu changes daily according to Fujita and Nozawa's market finds, and consists of purist nigiri, sushi, and hand-rolls. Sadly, this is not a spot for the spontaneous: You must make a reservation (many weeks in advance).

In NYC, Roberta’s pizza is the OG. In LA, it’s the new kid who became the prom queen. Roberta’s, and its roster of signature pastas and pizzas, originally came west as a pop-up at Platform. But like so many East Coast transplants dipping their toes in the Pacific, Roberta’s decided to stay. A good thing, considering locals have developed a mean Bee Sting habit. (A Bee Sting is when you make soppressata and mozzarella into a pizza and top it with chili and honey.) The cacio e pepe here nails the cacio to pepe ratio, and the kid’s pastas are so good, adults know to order a second for themselves.

The givens: Unadorned sushi, attentive service, a busy and buzzy atmosphere. What sets it apart from the other west side options is very simple. It's the rice. Perfectly moist and served slightly warm, it's the ideal vehicle for the fish, which is, for the most part, presented sans sauce (why mar perfection?). They offer a $35 lunch special that condenses the omakase menu but still packs the same punch. There's also a location in Brentwood.

Since 1982, Spago has managed to hold its spot as one of the busiest and most celebrated LA restaurants. Sure, there's a ton of air-kissing and people-watching, but the seasonally-focused food succeeds thanks to fresh produce, meat, and fish that's done simply and well (the beet layer salad is always a highlight). It's the kind of place that's justified by a special occasion, and there are plenty of private room options for large parties.

Sushi Yamamoto, which opened in the old Urasawa space on Rodeo Drive, is one of the best omakase bars in the LA sushi scene. Put your trust in rising-star chef Yusuke Yamamoto, who’s worked behind the counter at the Beverly Hills classic Matsuhisa and at Nobu Tokyo: He sources some of the world’s best seafood, like uni from Hokkaido, Oma tuna from Aomori, and Astrea caviar.

The only American outpost of Koichi Endo—who owns a handful of restaurants in Kyoto—Tempura Endo serves tempura omakase-style using high quality oils and a unique batter blend that creates the crispest, lightest, most sublime tempura ever. If you sit at the 8-person bar, you get the added benefit of watching the chefs prepare the food, not entirely unlike watching a brilliant sushi chef. There is also a small, even more private, dining room for intimate groups. The price tag matches the exquisite meal in this case, but it's worth it for special occasions.

The vibe at Bar Bohemien is very low-key—good for not-so-wild nights where you’re catching up with a friend or meeting a date. They have a very limited food menu, but you’re welcome to bring food up from the stalls downstairs in Citizen Public Market.

Sit at the bar or on the patio, and order one of an encyclopedia’s worth of craft beers. (Skip the cocktails.) Order the Office Burger, complete with bacon, caramelized onions, gruyere, and blue cheese (no substitutions allowed), with just about any sides—everything’s good. There's another Father's Office location in Santa Monica; the menus are the same but the vibes are completely different.

The back of the Hatchet Hall houses a second, separate bar deemed Old Man Bar—it looks as brooding as you'd expect, but it's also beautiful, and it serves up noteworthy serious cocktails.

Stanley’s is half wine shop, half bar. It’s a chill spot to grab an afternoon glass of pinot, and the scene gets lively as the evening rolls on—mostly small groups gathered around tables, never too crowded. If you taste something you like, take a bottle home. And if you’re just stopping into the shop for a hostess gift, the staff is a huge help for picking out something great.

You asked for healthy takeout; we delivered. Our take on takeout is a menu of hearty bowls, vibrant salads, delicious handhelds, pizza, pasta, rotisserie, and more—all gluten-free and often finished with goop Certified Clean sauces, dressings, and marinades.

There's hardly a place to stand in this tiny gem, let alone sit, but the juices here are simply amazing. Cold-pressed daily and kept in the store's walk-in fridge, the juices are served in glass pint bottles, so you don't have to wait for each one to be made. Shots of wheatgrass and E3Live (blue-green algae) are also available. It's not cheap, but it's a healthy indulgence. Cash only.

This Indian grocery has an excellent hot foods counter, and it’s our go-to for takeout when we’re in the area.

Housed on a residential street in Culver City, Jackson Market has a grocery section (lots of gourmet candy, drinks, and snacks) in addition to a lengthy lunch menu. While the Jamaican Jerk sandwich had a nice kick to it and the Rueben has the perfect brisket-to-sauerkraut ratio (best enjoyed right away as the dressing makes the bread soggy), the classic Italian sub is a definite fan favorite, particularly when you take the build-your-own option and opt for a turkey-and-pesto sandwich.

These guys make the best bread in Culver City, and you should definitely grab a loaf to take home. The toasts and pizzas are also worth the trip. You can take bread-baking classes here, too.

Loqui—which started as a pop up in San Francisco’s Tartine—has opened it's first brick-and-mortar location in Culver City's retail center, Platform. The space is small but very sleek—all polished granite with an open kitchen. What makes the tacos so great is their signature, fluffy flour tortillas, which they make fresh on site (though there are still corn tortillas available for purists). Try the mushroom molcajete (like a deconstructed burrito bowl but so fresh-tasting), with zesty guac and pickled red onions. If you’re planning on lunch, get there early, the line is out the door by noon.

Super Domestic makes great coffee and breakfast. The space doubles as a bike shop.

Tucked away in the back of the Helms Bakery building, Arcana is easy to miss: In fact, they seem to play it intentionally low-pro. They have an incredible selection of rare and hard-to-find art books, many of which are behind glass.

For 20 odd years, Big Daddy has been filling a corner on La Brea with pieces sourced from around the world—and by pieces, we don't mean straightforward couches and case goods. This is the sort of place where you go for something significant and statement making, whether it's a vintage dental case, an antique birdcage, or a seasoned Louis Vuitton trunk. You can also find them at the Rosebowl Flea, or at their warehouse in San Francisco.

Open by appointment only.

The best businesses are born out of need. The Chain Press is one such example. Masterminded by Naoise McGee, an Irish émigré who missed handwritten letters, the company celebrates old-fashioned craft and encourages the simple gesture of sending a note or invitation on proper stationery. McGee works with clients to create designs and monograms that reflect their personalities and passions. Aside from bespoke personal stationery, the Chain Press also designs custom wedding invitations, announcement cards, even accent pieces for the home, all handmade by McGee—a one-woman show—on a midcentury Vandercook cylinder press in her new Los Angeles atelier.

Occupying the former Helms Bakery building, this department store-like store sits in a complex that plays host to Room & Board, and a handful of rug and lighting boutiques. It's divided into shop-in-shops for various vendors, which means that you'll find vintage collectibles arranged next to furniture and bedding companies. They have another LA location downtown, as well as one in SF and one in Orange County. This summer Australian furniture line Coco Republic launched its outdoor collection at HD Buttercup—sleek chairs, tables, and patio accessories made with a mix of concrete, rope, teak, and other materials.

Since 1995, Jill Roberts's mini-chainlet of boutiques have been holding strong, offering that specifically LA-buy: Plenty of denim and t-shirts, plus a few stand-out pieces from designers like Ulla Johnson, Agua by Agua Bendita, and Nili Lotan. There are two other LA locations: Santa Monica and Studio City.

If you're looking for an incredibly long farm table, or a bed from an period home, look here. Everything here is insanely cool and patina'd, from the perfectly restored furniture to the truly one-of-a-kind finds. They've elevated store design and arrangement to an art, too, making this a fun place to browse.

With the long-awaited completion of the Expo Line, a train that connects Culver City to both Downtown and Santa Monica, the area is in the midst of a period of immense growth. Platform, an indoor/outdoor space devoted to shopping and eating, is right next to the train stop. But calling it a straight-up mall feels off. In place of the usual shop suspects, there’s a Monocle pop-up and a Janessa Leone boutique. And while you won’t see a food court, what you will find are a dozen or so restaurants—both casual (Loqui tacos, Van Leeuwen ice cream, Boba Guys) and not (Margot). The pièce de résistance is Roberta’s, Brooklyn’s finest, where they know how to sling a pizza.

Surfas offers a wonderful selection of any and every tool and supply you could ever need for your kitchen whether you're a home cook or a professional. They stock everything from the highest quality pots and pans to industrial-sized mixers not typically sold to the general public. They also stock a range of common and hard-to-find ingredients, including a whole aisle dedicated to chocolate.

Village Well has a strong book assortment and good coffee. It’s also a great place to hang out or get some work done—there’s wifi and well-placed electrical outlets, if you need them.

When you're thinking of scenic hikes and spots in LA, Culver City doesn't usually to come to mind. But you can get a surprisingly amazing view of LA from this small state park in the Baldwin Hills area of Culver City. On a clear day, you'll get a panoramic view of downtown LA, the Hollywood sign, and the majestic San Gabriel Mountains to the east; and to the west, you can see all the way to the Pacific Ocean, with Malibu to the north and Palos Verdes to the south. Street parking is not impossible, but you can also try the lot at the top of hill, which costs $6. The trail to the overlook spot begins at Jefferson Boulevard and Hetzler Road—and you should be ready to climb: It's 280+ stairs to the top of the overlook—and they aren't baby steps. In this case the cliché is true, though, because the view really is worth it. And there is an alternative route, a switchback trail, which we recommend taking on the way down to save your knees.

If you're an artist in LA, one of your goals is probably to get a show at Blum & Poe, one of, if not the, best LA galleries for contemporary art. It's a wonderfully big and airy space, and there's always something interesting showing.

A social club for kids is a cute idea—but a social club for kids growing up bilingual (and their families) is brilliant—and much-needed in Los Angeles. Founder Lizet Alvarez wanted to create a community to support Spanish learning and a dual-language lifestyle for her own chiquitos.

First, pick a ceramic item to paint: It’s not just cups and plates here; there are also have figurines of dinosaurs, mermaids, and pets. The helpful and socially distant staff is on hand to supply paints, stencils, and sponges to make the plain white ceramics your own, no matter your painting skill. When you’re done, they take your work, glaze it, and fire it for you to collect a few days later. But these days we prefer the at-home option. For a special occasion, the team will set up at your home (ideally in the yard) for some messy, artsy fun. Otherwise, there’s an incredible Zoom option, where an experienced teacher will lead your child (or gang of kids) through a ceramic painting how-to. All instructions and a list of materials needed are emailed ahead of time.

Any artist shown at this particular Gagosian has to compete with the clean, sleek architecture of this four-room space. Its opening parties are particularly wonderful.

There’s always something excellent on display at this UCLA museum—it’s also nicely manageable, making it the perfect way to spend a few idle hours. The adjacent museum store is one of the best in the city: The bookstore is gigantic, and they have some great gifts from L.A.-based designers, but they win the biggest points for their kids room in the back, where you’ll find art and design-specific tomes for little ones, along with a handful of well-conceived toys.

Honor Fraser Gallery is one of LA's premier galleries for contemporary art.

Sculptural works from the likes of Alexander Calder, Barbara Hepworth, Henri Mattisse, Isamu Noguchi, and others, sprawl across five acres of UCLA’s campus. You can wander around yourself, or arrange a tour though they book up far in advance.

Ava Shamban, M.D. (or, as her patients call her, Dr. Ava) is one of the most well-regarded dermatologists in the entertainment world. She's a regular on The Doctors, and the trusted skin guru for Extreme Makeover. Her practice is staffed with a team of accomplished dermatologists and Physician Assistants, who are all skilled in facials, microdermabrasion, and chemical peels. There are also super hardcore options like cosmetic lasers, botox injections, and extensive acne treatment programs—this spot is not a spa, it's the sort of place where they really clean out your pores. There's also a location in Santa Monica.

We love Nail Design for their thorough, well-done, and well-priced mani pedis. The salon is clean, chic, and casual enough to walk in without an appointment, and the ladies are friendly and welcoming.

Chris McMillan and his staff of stylists and colorists have a die-hard following—which can make it tough to get an appointment (with Chris in particular). But it's worth the wait. The space is relaxing and mellow, and, relative to the quality and the area, the prices here are reasonable. They also do a fantastic blow-out.

This is actually more dermatologist's office than spa, but the microdermabrasion treatment and hydrafacial (a gentle resurfacing treatment that boasts pretty extreme results), make it a regular upkeep go-to. Dr. Lancer is one of those doctors where less is more: The less is just powerful and effective. (It's arguably best expressed by his excellent and to-the-point product line.)

Heated Room’s signature class is high-intensity hot Pilates, and it’s challenging for even serious athletes. What keeps you in it: an encouraging instructor, bumping music, and a studio so sleek you feel cooler by association. They also have a (non-heated) reformer room, where you can book privates or a class for you and a couple friends.

Founded by two hair legends—colorist Tracey Cunningham and stylist Neil Weisberg—this salon is named for the French word for “lock of hair.” The cozy, earthy space has more than 20 stylists and colorists at work, along with Cunningham and Weisberg, who are on the floor every day. The full-service salon not only does some of the best hair (and hair color) in LA, the makeup, nails, and Chinese-foot-massage services are all amazing, too.

Mila has been taking care of many high-profile LA women for decades, all of whom swear by her skin and body treatments. More specifically, it's her European facials (tack on a dry contouring session for a bit of extra lift), "face-changing" line of skincare products, and discretion that keep everyone coming back.

This is our place for non-waxing waxing in LA: They use organic honey to do the job, which we find much less painful. We also love that it's all-natural and doesn't leave a sticky wax residue. P.S. They also do great spray tans.

Shani is a name you hear whispered around Los Angeles—usually by those friends who have particular glowy skin. The aesthetician opened a beautiful, neutral-toned studio in Beverly Hills to perform those dewifying facials as well as microcurrent and LED treatments.

Kids are tiny balls of energy. Yoga burns energy. Put the two together and you have Shorty Yoga. We love this cute but not cutesy space, with its La Colombe cappuccinos, free Wi-Fi, and stellar range of classes for littles of every age.

It can take years of trial and error to find a go-to spot for cuts, facials, brows, and makeup, so finding a salon that offers all four is kind of like hitting the beauty jackpot. Striiike in Beverly Hills is owned by a trio of sisters—Kristie, Ashley, and Jenn Streicher. Each has a specific beauty talent: Kristie (aka The Eyebrow Whisperer) has a cult following thanks to her famous feathered-brow technique, Ashley is a hairstyling genius, and Jenn is an incredible makeup artist. Striiike is also one of the best under-the-radar spots for facials, thanks to resident aesthetician Melanie Simon. Her two-hour Physics Facial tones and repairs skin with low-frequency electric current and sleight of hand that leaves you unfathomably radiant for days afterward. In a rush? The fifteen-minute Lightning Striiike brings all three sisters together for a quickie mini makeover.

Sugaring calls on an organic sugar, lemon, and water paste to pull hair out in the natural direction of its growth. The treatment can be safely applied to virtually any part of the body and somehow manages to thin out the hair over time.

Tomoko in Beverly Hills is a transformative experience from the moment you walk through the door, where it’s likely Tomoko herself who will hand you a pair of slippers before leading you into the traditionally minimalist, Japanese-style pretreatment relaxation area for tea, the first of many pots they’ll brew for you. There’s no communal changing area or locker rooms, as each of the four treatment rooms is set up with all the amenities of a luxury hotel room (shower, closet, bath, vanity, etc.). A single treatment can take up to four hours with all the trimmings—starting with a foot soak and reflexology massage and ending with post-massage herbal tea and mochi ice cream. Photo credits: Tessa Neustadt; @beverlyhoodrich, @kylewaldrop

There's a pretty cheeky design aesthetic here, that takes a deep bow to the Queen: Union Jack covered chairs, portraits of Her Majesty, and floral, chintz wallpaper that looks like it was lifted from the walls of a country estate set the vibe. The concept is in line with the idea that everyone should be treated like royalty, which explains the extras (like long and late opening hours). Go for “The Full Monty” as they use wax from Italy, which is applied warm (not hot) to protect the skin. Jodi Shays is the owner, and the person to see if possible.

Her laid-back personality and healing approach to skincare have made Vanessa Hernandez one of the most in-demand aestheticians in LA. The treatments range from customized facials and microdermabrasion to oxygen therapy and vitamin infusions, and are all fantastic.

You can see acupuncturist Mona Dan for a single acupuncture session or buy a pack of five or ten sessions. Clients also come to Vie Healing for bodywork—massage, cupping, Reiki—and the rejuvenating variations of peels and facials.