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FARINELLI

Recoleta, Buenos Aires, Argentina

why we love it

Farinelli has the feel of a traditional French bakery and the appearance of a thoroughly modern operation. Small but mighty, the menu is loaded with healthy options, and given that Farinelli is a determinedly seasonal café—everything is homemade. Choose from sandwiches, salads, cakes, juices, and signature desserts (anything Dulce de Leche). Portions are small but the flavors are assertive, leaving you feeling satisfied. Inarguably chic, the interior is covered in white tiles and walls with red trim, which feels clean, pared-back, and contemporary. The few seats out front are made for sitting back with a strong coffee (or juice) and watching the locals go by.

Originally featured in The Buenos Aires Guide

category

Specialty

FARINELLI

Arroyo 900, Recoleta

phone number

+54.11.4509.0890

hours

Mon-Fri: 8am-8pm

Sat: 11am-5pm

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José Antonio Cabrera 5127, Palermo

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La Cocina

Cavia 2985, Palermo
Tue-Fri: 9am-12am
Sat: 10am-12am
Sun: 10am-8pm

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Mishiguene

Mishiguene

Lafinur 3368, Palermo
Mon-Sat: 12pm-12:30am
Sun: 12pm-4pm

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Patagonia Sur

Rocha 801, La Boca

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Piegari

Posadas 1042, Retiro
Mon-Thu: 12pm-12am
Fri-Sat: 12pm-1am
Sun: 12pm-12am

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UCO

Soler 5862, Palermo

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Bar Los Galgos

Bar Los Galgos

Callao 501, Microcentro
Mon-Wed: 8am-11:45pm
Thurs-Sat: 8am-1am

The original owner of this jazz bar was an enthusiastic dog-racer, hence the name Los Galgos, which translates to "the greyhounds." It's a determinedly old-school joint, where in lieu of beer taps, the booze flows from vintage goosenecks, the tables are Formica-topped, and the mirrored bar is a relic of times gone by.

Bar Plaza Dorrego

Bar Plaza Dorrego

San Lorenzo 356, San Telmo

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Bar 878

Bar 878

Thames 878, Villa Crespo
Mon-Wed: 7pm-2am
Thurs: 7pm-3:30am
Fri: 7pm-4:30am
Sat: 8pm-4:30am
Sun: 8pm-2am

Ocho7ocho (as the locals call it) is packed to the rafters, night after night and deservedly so. Located—like many of the city's bars and restaurants—in a converted townhouse, the vibe is laid-back and relatively unfussy with low sofas, smooth stone walls, and dark lighting—it kind of feels akin to being in a cave. The cocktails are excellent, but this is also the kind of bar to kick back with a simple, but well-made gin and tonic and catch up with a friend.

Café Rivas

Café Rivas

Estados Unidos 302, San Telmo
Tues-Thurs: 9:30am-1am
Fri-Sat: 9am-1:30am
Sun: 11am-8pm

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Florería Atlántico

Florería Atlántico

Arroyo 872, Retiro
Mon-Wed: 7pm-2am
Thurs: 7pm-2:30pm
Fri: 7pm-4am
Sat: 8pm-4am
Sun: 8pm-2am

This bar—submerged beneath a pretty flower shop—is helmed by the city’s most revered bartender, Tato Giovannoni. The cocktail list is a celebration of the immigrant-led cultural fusion that is the backbone of this Latin city. Tato makes his own homemade gin (a pretty novel endeavor in Argentina), unusually—and patriotically—flavored with eucalyptus, yerba mate, and grapefruit. The basement bar itself is minimalist and urban with whitewashed walls, a chalkboard menu, and a long bar brightened up with yellow stools. Small plates are available, but be sure to book well in advance for table service.

The Harrison Speakeasy

The Harrison Speakeasy

Malabia 1764, Palermo
Tues: 10pm-1:30am
Wed: 10pm-2am
Thurs: 10pm-2:30am
Fri-Sat: 10pm-3am

A riff on the fish market speakeasy operated by the notorious Harrison family in New York during the Prohibition, this iteration (authentically located underneath a sushi restaurant) recreates all of the illicit drama of the period. The real Nicky Harrison—a jailbird who later fled New York—wound up finding life and love in Buenos Aires and every detail in this bar is an ode to his story. (Even the menus feature newspaper clippings detailing Harrison’s 1930 incarceration.) The well-stocked bar is manned by guys who know what they're doing, too.

Isabel

Isabel

Uriarte 1664, Palermo
Tues-Thurs: 7:30pm-5am
Sat: 9pm-5am

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Pony Line at the Four Seasons

Pony Line at the Four Seasons

Posadas 1086/88, Recoleta
Mon-Fri: 11am-2am
Sat: 7pm-3am
Sun: 5pm-1am

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Uptown BA

Arévalo 2030, Palermo
Tues-Wed: 8:30pm-2am
Thurs-Sat: 8:30pm-3am

A pretty novel concept, this bar is a complete reconstruction of the NYC subway, as if it’s in transit from the Bronx to Uptown—yet, unlike the subway, this bar also manages to feel illicit, swanky, and clean. From the guys behind the Harrison Speakeasy, no stone was left unturned here—they’ve thought of every detail from the subway tiles that cover nearly every surface and the turnstile you need to pass through, to the actual subway car that holds the bar. This, however is no ordinary subway car, inside is a chic space with leather booths, towering ceilings, and a bar manned by booze experts mixing up themed cocktails to a soundtrack of rap and R&B.

Victoria Brown Bar

Victoria Brown Bar

Costa Rica 4827, Palermo

A speakeasy, designed to resemble a Victorian-era factory (hence the name), the ambiance is dark and cozy with circular leather booths, low lighting, and truly excellent cocktails. Settle in for a few aperitifs and small plates to tide you over until dinner, which given Buenos Aires’s dining schedule typically gets going around 10 p.m.

Café Tortoni

Café Tortoni

Av. de Mayo 825, Microcentro
Mon-Sat: 8am-1am
Sun: 9am-1am

Tortoni is more akin to a ballroom than a café, yet it’s imposing size does not deter from the grand, turn-of-the-century continental café décor. The towering ceilings, colonnaded walkways, and white-collared waiters delivering strong cortados and cake to packed tables feels a lot like stepping back in time. Settle into this long-standing institution for a few solo hours with a good book and work your way through several coffees for some of the best people-watching in the city.

Croque Madame

Croque Madame

Av. Del Libertador 1902, Palermo

In a city that has a picturesque café on every corner, Croque Madame has the distinguishing factor of being part of the very beautiful Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. The outdoor terrace is a buzzy, cozy situation surrounded by lush greenery, the ideal spot for a continental breakfast (flaky croissants, OJ, endless jam), or a quick coffee. While admittedly there are a few Croque Madame Café’s dotted around the city, this one is all about the location—surrounded by museums, it's perfect for a caffeine-centric pick-me-up between exhibits (with some stellar people-watching on the side).

LAB

LAB

Humboldt 1542, Palermo
Mon-Fri: 8am-8pm
Sat: 10am-8pm

LAB is a hyper-contemporary space aptly named given they treat the roasting and brewing process much like a precise science. A café for the true coffee connoisseur, every accouterment is available here from Chemex and V60, to an Aeropress for the perfect custom brew. Décor-wise, the space is a mix of white walls and blonde wood with low-hanging modern lamps and plenty of natural light. Aside from the incredible coffee, we recommend the grilled cheese or a sweet-savory slice of banana bread if you're feeling peckish.

La Biela

La Biela

Av. Pres. Manuel Quintana 596, Recoleta

While the service at this long-standing café can sometimes be a little lax, sitting outside on an elegant Recoleta street with a coffee in hand is the quintessential Buenos Aires experience. La Biela has occupied this leafy, shady corner for decades and is much-loved by the neighborhood's occupants. The people watching—both inside and out—is pure gold and the old-world interior filled with bustling, white-shirted waiters and automobile paraphernalia doesn't hurt. Stick to beverages and pastries here, save a full meal for one of Recoleta's incredible steakhouses—like Fervor, for example—instead.

Ninina

Ninina

Gorriti 4738, Palermo Soho
Mon-Thurs: 8am-12am
Fri: 8am-1am
Sat: 9am-1am
Sun: 9am-12am

A modern (by Buenos Aires standards) café and bakery serving up extravagant cakes in a minimalist setting, you wouldn't be blamed for thinking you’ve stepped into a Stockholm fika spot. Ninina's décor is decidedly Scandinavian, with walls, floors, and tables all made of polished blonde wood. The bar, in contrast, is a sheet of white marble showcasing traditional cakes covered in clouds of whipped cream, stiff meringue, and fresh berries. A mellow spot for an afternoon coffee and slice of cake, they also serve breakfast and lunch with an American slant—avocado toast, eggs, smoked salmon, waffles, and refreshing smoothies.

Próspero Velazco

Próspero Velazco

La Pampa 3491, Colegiales

The work of acclaimed patissier Próspero Velazco (who trained under Francis Mallmann, no less), this is no ordinary bakery. The bread, croissants, tarts, and cakes are all baked fresh daily and resemble miniature sweet sculptures. The space is charm personified, with all the confectionary displayed in glass cases, stacks of porcelain cups and saucers lining the shelves, and pretty blue tables and chairs scattered throughout for those wanting to sit in and enjoy a decadent éclair or tart slice of lemon pie.

Anushka Elliot

Anushka Elliot

Cabello 3791, Palermo
Mon-Fri: 11am-7pm
Sat: 11am-5pm

Anushka Elliot's ethereal dresses and tunics in loose linens and floaty silks serve as ideal transitional pieces, perfect for both the pampas and the city. A little bohemian, her designs are a reflection of time spent studying in Palermo and in London with a stint at American Vogue. By appointment only, Elliot’s Palermo showroom is well worth a visit if you're looking for one-of-a-kind pieces you can't find elsewhere or to add a heavy dose of femininity to your wardrobe.

Arandu

Arandu

Paraguay 1259, Retiro

Argentina is known for exceptional leather craftsmanship, which is on full display in this family-owned shop. Originating in the mid-1980s, Arandu started out making bespoke leather saddles and bridles, eventually expanding to bags, boots, wallets, and other handmade items, including silver, wood, and ceramic accessories. Detailing is the focal point of every piece, down to the pristine stitching on the jackets and shoes. Leave ample time to explore the entire shop (which smells, of course, like gorgeous leather), as you're likely to find something truly special—say, a traditional steak knife made by their in-house silversmith?

Blumm Flower Co.

Blumm Flower Co.

Cavia 2985, Palermo

Tucked into the corner of the beautiful retail and restaurant concept that is Casa Cavia, walking into Blumm is an all senses on deck experience—every surface is covered in bright blooms, and their fresh scent fills the space. Owner and master florist Camila Gassiebayle is a former fashion stylist and consultant and her unique aesthetic is what sets Blumm apart. The arrangements are strictly seasonal and more bohemian than done up. Order a bunch, let Gassiebayle work her magic, and enjoy a coffee next door, or browse the chic selection of vases, pots, and botanically themed books (all of which make great gifts).

Casa Cavia

Casa Cavia

Cavia 2985, Palermo
Tues-Sat: 9am-12am
Sun: 10am-7pm

Some people head to Casa Cavia for the flowers, others for the books–we go for the incredible mix of both, as well as its stellar restaurant and gorgeous perfumery. This hybrid concept shop is actually a multi-use space inhabiting a drop-dead gorgeous 1920's Palermo home, renovated by design team Kallos Turin. When you first walk in, you're hit with the scent of the fresh florals artfully arranged in bouquets and displayed in each room. The first floor hosts the florist, Fueguia 1833 parfumerie, shop, and restaurant, where chef Pablo Massey offers his inventive take on traditional Argentinian dishes. There's also an impeccable garden and the in-house Ampersand Publishing company which produces and sells books all in one place. On the second floor, there's a beautiful library where they host readings, presentations, and classes. Pro tip: Come late afternoon to peruse the wares, have a glass of wine, and stay for an early dinner (a rarity, given the city's proclivity to eat late, but so worth it for the quiet).

Casa Fagliano

Casa Fagliano

Tambo Nuevo 1449, Hurlingham
Mon-Fri: 9am-7pm
Sat: 9am-1pm

This atelier—founded by an Italian husband and wife duo in 1892—makes, arguably, the most superlative polo boots in the world. Despite the longevity of this family business, practices have remained largely unchanged, with the boots still made by hand in the store to this day—more often than not by octogenarian Rodolfo Fagliano himself. The artisanal production process is painstaking in its detail—leathers are selected for durability and softness (the Fagliano’s prefer cordovan, calfskin, and buffalo hide), and soles are cut and prepared all on a 1920s sewing machine. While a pair of these exquisite handmade boots don't come cheap and the waiting list can be months-long, for the true polo-enthusiast these boots are worth it. Every detail is customizable, from the leather to the thread color to the type of brass nails used. If you absolutely must have a piece of this craftsmanship in your life without the hefty price tag, Casa Fagliano also offers a selection of other leather products like watch straps and belts.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

Av. Santa Fe 1860, Recoleta
Mon-Thurs: 9am-10pm
Fri-Sat: 9am-12am
Sun: 12am-10pm

Buenos Aires is typically known for its tango and steak, but the written word is also a big deal around here with a bookstore on practically every corner. El Ateneo is not your run-of-the-mill bookseller: housed in a former grand theater built in 1919, this imposing, cavernous space is now packed floor-to-ceiling with books set amidst the original ornate fixtures. A particularly thoughtful detail is the in-store café, built onto what was once the tango stage, and still framed by dramatic red velvet drapes. Spend a few hours taking it all in and wrap up with a strong cortado center stage.

El Camarin

El Camarin

Montevideo 1545, Recoleta
Mon-Fri: 11am-7pm
Sat: 11am-2pm

What we love most about El Camarin is its completely considered and unique inventory. Owner Yanina Solnicki sources the most beautiful vintage dresses, which she and her team restore in-house. Tucked inside Recoleta's promenade gallery, the small shop has a healthy inventory yet is somehow easy to manage, too. You'll also find new pieces from several modern Argentine lines–and given Solnicki's penchant for lace and chiffon, this boutique has become a go-to for brides looking for a one-of-a-kind dress.

Gil Antiguedades

Gil Antiguedades

Humberto 1º 412, San Telmo

While San Telmo is known for its incredible Sunday street fair, the bounty of antique stores and quaint restaurants make it a worthy destination any day of the week. Case in point: this impressive boutique specializing in early- and mid-century vintage clothing and homewares. The space feels like an artful labyrinth packed with accessories and clothes—from flapper dresses to lace wedding gowns—all of which is meticulously displayed between rows of beaded necklaces and Bakelite bracelets. The upstairs houses most of the homewares, including rare china, vintage crystal, and gorgeous textiles. A collector's dream.

Sadaels

Sadaels

Arévalo 1728, Palermo
Mon-Fri: 10:30am-8pm
Sat: 10:30am-5pm

Juan Hernandez Daels is a Belgian-Argentinian designer who studied both in Antwerp and in London’s Central St. Martins. Having cut his teeth at Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons before launching his own flagship in Buenos Aires in 2014, it's no wonder at all that his line is defined by sharp tailoring and conceptual silhouettes—expect beautifully deconstructed separates with plenty of cocktail attire thrown in.

JT

JT

Loyola 1620, Villa Crespo

Argentinian designer Jessica Trosman (formerly of the label TrosmanChurba) is the proprietress of what many would agree is the most stylistically dynamic boutique in the city. Located in a renovated warehouse, the space—all whitewashed walls with a dramatic mirrored glass structure surrounded by suspended greenery acting as a dressing room in the center—is a true pleasure to shop. (Trosman’s design studio is out back and you’ll often spy her sketching away through the glass walls.) Admittedly, the candy-colored and dip-dyed patterns and elaborate, over-the-top silhouettes are not for everyone, those in the market for something truly unexpected will hit the motherlode here.

Panorama

Panorama

Republica de la India 2905, Palermo

Panorama is one of the more avante-garde boutiques in the city in the sense that the owners (a trio of Argentine designers) adhere strictly to stocking the best edit of emerging Argentinian talent. The store itself is a completely white space, save a few pops of neon, highlighting the colors and textures of the pieces displayed. Browse through buttery leather bags by Le Bas, chunky knits from Maydi, and dresses from a handful of under-the-radar brands. This multi-line concept store is the perfect for bringing home something you won't find anywhere else in the world.

Libros del Pasaje

Libros del Pasaje

Thames 1762, Palermo Soho
Mon-Sat: 10am-9pm
Sun: 2pm-9pm

Proof that this city holds culture and literature in the highest regard, BA is known for having the most bookstores per capita in the world. Passage stands out for its incredible inventory, which includes first editions and a decent amount of literature in English. The staff is approachable and insanely knowledgeable, but the best part is the overall vibe: the music is always edgy and perfect for the setting (think: Massive Attack, The White Stripes, and Jane's Addiction), and there's a cozy café in the back that makes for a great spot to post up with a book and coffee on a lazy Saturday.

Tramando SA

Tramando SA

Paraná 1172, Retiro
Mon-Fri: 10:30am-7:30pm
Sat: 11am-6pm

Tramando designer Martin Churba is so fixated on the quality and innovative elements of his textiles that he has his own lab specifically for experimenting. Churba produces ready-to-wear pieces that are hyper-modern in both silhouette and fabrication (think of him as the Argentinian Rick Owens). Shirts are either wildly patterned or unexpectedly sheer, the cocktail pieces, meanwhile, are chic and modern. The are four stores in the city, so you can't miss it.

arteba

arteba

Paraná 1160, Recoleta

arteba was founded in 1991 in an effort to strengthen the city’s domestic art market. The foundation has evolved into one of Latin America’s most significant art fairs (last year drew more than 100,000 visitors), bringing Argentinian art to the international market and vice versa. Typically the fair takes place in May and features approximately 300 curators, collectors, and artists. The organizers also produce an excellent bi-annual magazine covering the domestic art scene for those who cannot attend, or are just interested in keeping up.

Bosques de Palermo

Bosques de Palermo

Av. Infanta Isabel 410, Palermo

An urban park that acts as effectively as a communal backyard for millions of Porteños with three artificial lakes for boating, trails for walking and biking, as well as that delightful fusion of culture and the outdoors that many Latin cities do so well. The 989 acres are teeming with pretty groves and rose gardens (home to over 12,000 roses), but our favorite is the Poet’s Garden, filled with bronze busts of famous wordsmiths from Pirandello to Shakespeare.

Faena Art Center

Faena Art Center

Aime Paine 1169, Puerto Madero

A non-profit with a second location in Miami, the Faena Art Center provides a platform for local and new artists to exhibit and bring their work into the public sphere, as well as plays host to international exhibits. The center in Puerto Madero is built into what was once one of Argentina’s largest flour mills and thankfully many of the unique turn-of-the-century industrial details were retained. The ceilings are soaring, and huge 1900's-style bay windows flood the space with light. Exhibits have included multi-disciplinary artist Typoe’s 'Forms of Life', where the artist created a fantastical futuristic city, vivid with the colors of Miami (Typoe’s birthplace) with children’s building blocks—visitors were encouraged to construct their own future worlds—while another recent exhibit was choreography based.

Herlitzka & Co.

Herlitzka & Co.

Libertad 1630, Retiro

Herlitzka & Co. concentrates on geometric abstraction and the more conceptual Latin American art. The gallery gives a platform to new and established artists as well regularly hosting cutting-edge exhibits—recent examples include Mirtha Dermisache, and Carlos Ginzberg’s New Capitalism show, a meditation on modern commercialism and exploitation through the lens of photographs and placards. Faria keeps his finger on the pulse and his gallery is a must-visit for creatives and art-lovers curious about Argentina's domestic art scene.

Il Caminito

Il Caminito

Magallanes 802, La Boca

The La Boca neighborhood of Buenos Aires has a reputation for being a little touristy, however considering it's home to the Boca Juniors stadium, and many of the city’s best restaurants, the charming street is well worth the trip (and is walkable from quaint San Telmo). The caminito is just as described, a little walk through what was once an immigrant Italian neighborhood still called La Boca (or the mouth) thanks to it’s harborside location. The area’s charm lies in the mish-mash of brightly painted houses situated along the cobbled streets that are lined with artists and craftspeople. Many of the walls are covered in murals that delve into the social and political themes present in Porteño life. Go for a wander, take in the sights and—if you’re organized enough—book at table at one of La Boca’s restaurants for dinner.

La Bomba de Tiempo

La Bomba de Tiempo

Sarmiento 3131, Buenos Aires

If there's one sweat-inducing, invigorating, authentic experience to be had in BA, it's this: A group of talented percussionists perform a mix of improvised drumming every Monday at Konex, the city's cutting edge, slightly gritty, cultural center. The music is loud and totally infectious–you'll find everyone dancing in the audience, which is an eclectic crowd—everything from local die-hard fans of all ages to tourists. The set runs for about three hours, but it literally flies by, leaving you wanting more. Head there early to get a spot near the crowd exterior (the middle can get rowdy) and wear sneakers and comfortable clothing–you'll be on your feet for hours.

La Ciudad Universitaria de Buenos Aires

La Ciudad Universitaria de Buenos Aires

Ciudad Universitaria, Belgrano

Universities are the often-overlooked, yet most ideal locations to really feel out the cultural and political pulse of a city. Buenos Aires’s Ciudad Universitaria is a sprawling campus based on an urban plan drafted by seminal French architect Le Corbusier in 1938. The buildings are fairly Brutalist is style (a change from the typically ornate structures that dominate the city landscape), and the campus is covered in graffiti, political banners, and cultural references—an unusual but authentic spot to walk around and really take in the civic undertones of the city.

Museo de Arte Contemporaneo

Museo de Arte Contemporaneo

Av. San Juan 328, San Telmo
Mon: 11am-7pm
Wed-Fri: 11am-7pm
Sat-Sun: 11am-7:30pm

The city’s Museum of Contemporary Art is relatively new, having opened in 2012 in the lively San Telmo neighborhood adjacent to MAMBA. MACBA is primarily dedicated to displaying the art collection of financier Aldo Rubino, which has a heavy focus on geometric abstraction. Other artists exhibited include international names like Le Parc and Vasarely, and Argentine artists like Fabian Burgos and Veronica di Toro. A recent initiative promoted the works of female artists in exhibits curated by women.

Museo de Arte Moderno

Museo de Arte Moderno

Av. San Juan 350, San Telmo
Tues-Fri: 11am-7pm
Sat-Sun: 11am-8pm

The Museum of Modern Art (not to be confused with from MACBA which focuses on purely contemporary artists), is dedicated to displaying modern art from the 1920's to the present day. The collection encompasses over 7,000 works by both Argentine and international artists spanning everything from photography to graphic and industrial design.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes

Av. Del Libertador 1473, Recoleta
Tues-Fri: 11am-8pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-8pm

This museum not only houses Argentina’s largest collection of fine art, it's the largest public collection in all of Latin America—over 12,000 pieces of 19th-century European Art sit alongside a substantial Argentinian offering. The permanent collection is incredibly varied and includes stunning works be Rembrandt and El Greco. Don’t miss the Goya room, filled with the striking sketches and paintings by the artist, many depicting topics like death and war in the Napoleonic period. Impressionism lovers will find an expansive selection of works by Manet, Monet, Renoir, and Degas, alongside sculptures by Rodin and some Modernist pieces including a Jackson Pollack. This museum truly has something for everyone and is beautifully laid out with a robust library, a gift shop filled with collector-worthy art books, and a pretty café.

Palacio Libertad

Palacio Libertad

Sarmiento 151, Microcentro

Aside from being the largest cultural center in Latin America, Palacio Libertad occupies a stunning, French-empire style historic building that was once the city’s post office. Spread across nine floors, the center is dedicated to music, theatre, dance, and art.

Polo Season

Polo Season

Arévalo 3065, Palermo

We'd be remiss not to mention the all-important polo season when talking about Buenos Aires, or Argentina, for that matter. While there are three main events, The Tortugas Open, The Hurlingham Open, and The Argentine Polo Open Championship, the Polo Open Championship is the main event and happens in BA in what Argentinians call the 'Cathedral of Polo' in the Palermo neighborhood (typically from November into early December). Aside from all the action happening on the horses, polo events also come accompanied by some pretty serious food and late-night revelry. It's totally worth planning your trip to BA around this time of year. Trust.

Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery

Junín 1760, Recoleta

Built in 1822 around an existing convent, a walk through Recoleta Cemetery’s labyrinthine alleys reads like an Argentine history lesson—generals, presidents, citizens, and Eva Perón herself, are all buried here. This is truly one of the most dynamic and visually beautiful resting places in the world—covered in over 4,691 vaults and mausoleums so grand (a mixture of marble palace-like structures some perfectly maintained and some crumbling), many have been declared national monuments. The cemetery is arranged on a grid—like most modern cities—and the many thousands of decorative tombs cover all the architectural movements that have spanned the last two centuries from Art Deco to Neo Gothic.

Ruth Benzacar Galería de Arte

Ruth Benzacar Galería de Arte

Juan Ramírez de Velasco 1287, Villa Crespo

One of Buenos Aires's longest-standing art institutions, Ruth Benzacar was founded by Ruth herself in 1965, when in the midst of a financial crisis the matriarch transformed her then-home into a gallery space to the showcase the contemporary art collection she and her husband had amassed. These days the gallery has moved space, but continues to be a family affair, now run by Benzacar’s daughters Orly and Solana. Aside from frequent exhibits showcasing mostly contemporary Argentinian talent, the space also hosts other cultural activities like poetry readings and workshops for kids.

San Telmo Market

San Telmo Market

Calle Defensa, San Telmo

This market has served locals since 1897, when it was originally founded as a marketplace for the waves of European immigrants who flocked to the city during that period. Set indoors, take a moment to look up and note the original fixtures, columns, and beams that still adorn the space today. Most of the stalls—selling all manner of knick-knacks, antiques, records, and crafts—are open daily. A separate Sunday flea market happens every weekend in this same quaint plaza, oftentimes with live tango as an accompaniment. Stop by the charming Bar Plaza Dorrego for a post-flea pick-me-up.

Teatro Colón

Teatro Colón

Tucumán 1171, Microcentro
Mon-Sat: 10am-8pm
Sun: 10am-5pm

Without question, Teatro Colón is one of the world’s most breathtaking opera houses, and has played host to all of the greats across ballet, classical music, and opera from Maria Callas to Margot Fonteyn. Whilst the building itself has gone through many incarnations amidst plenty of turmoil (an anarchist bombing in 1910, the murder of one of its architects), the latest refurbishment was completed in 2010. Architecturally, the Teatro is eclectic in style which reflects the structure's journey through the last century—the horseshoe-shaped hall (which creates an echo chamber-like sound effect), holds nearly 4,000 people and feels grand and celebratory with plenty of velvet, tapestries, and ornately carved wood. Take a tour—which includes the deep catacombs beneath the building—or dress up and attend a performance to take in the old-world grandeur and hear the incredible acoustics for yourself.

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