Asian Cantina




why we love it
Argentinian food—though flavor-packed—lacks spice, and chef Christina Sunae’s Southeast Asian Cantina is a breath of culinary fresh air. The food aside, the space is refreshingly vibrant with banana-leaf wallpaper, splashes of color, and plenty of plants. The menu has mined the Philippines, Thailand, Vietnam, and Indonesia for inspiration—try the fresh yum talay salad (seafood, mint, cilantro, and a spicy, citrus-y dressing), the empanada-style wontons or the roasted eggplant puree (with coconut milk, sweet potatoes, and crisp banana chips). For diners craving something more familiar go for reliable standby’s like Pad Thai or a nourishing bowl of pho. Post-dinner sweet treats have been re-interpreted to reflect the aforementioned regions—we loved the key lime pie with it’s ginger-infused dough, pandan meringue, and green tea ice cream.
Originally featured in The Buenos Aires Guide
Restaurants
$$$
- Good For Groups
- Takes Reservations
Humboldt 1626, Palermo
+54.11.4776.8122
Mon-Thu: 8pm-11:30pm
Fri-Sat: 8pm-11:45pm
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Algodon Mansion
A former private residence dating back to 1912, the mansion has a distinctly European aesthetic with parquet floors, modern furniture, and ornate flourishes. Ten suites strong, staying at the Algodon feels cozy, intimate, and quiet. All of the suites feature soaring ceilings, high thread count sheets, and beautifully outfitted marble bathrooms with steam showers. The larger suites however come with their own small wine bars stocked with Argentinian labels and conveniently have separate lounge areas, ideal for in-room entertaining. The hotel also has an in-house spa, a rooftop pool, and an individual butler to assist each guests throughout their stay.

Alvear Palace Hotel
The Alvear Palace was, in its last life, an apartment block home to rich beef magnate families. Nowadays the 197 rooms still exude the grandeur and class of its past: Accommodations are bright, high-ceilinged, and smartly furnished with fine art and antiques, while the marble bathrooms are stocked with Hermès toiletries. The hotel features five restaurants, each one slightly different, but you can't go wrong. The rooftop bar with its panoramic views of the city is so atmospheric, illuminated by candles and twinkling lights. L’ Orangerie Bar is incredibly ornate, and one of the more beautiful spots in this city for a classic afternoon tea with all the bells and whistles (including monogrammed teacups). Aside from the overall grandeur, practicalities abound and the concierge are renowned for being able to accommodate any and every request, including snagging those much sought after last-minute tickets to polo.

Faena Buenos Aires
The Faena, more so than any other hotel in the city, has its own very distinct look. Designed by Philippe Starck this property is a design-enthusiasts dream with its towering stained glass entryway, etched crystal mirrors, and oddball wall hangings. Using primarily red, white, and black each space oozes drama and borderline kitsch—white leather furniture, red velvet drapes, palatial beds made up with crisp linens and embroidered red throws. The rooftop pool is urban in feel, fittingly with red loungers and umbrellas. Despite the limited palette used, each room has its own personality—the bar is dark, moody, and clubby. As an added bonus, there's great tango in the subterranean bar El Cabaret—inspired by the tango clubs of the twenties—complete with red velvet everything. Revelry aside, the Faena has an incredible spa and immersive wellness program with crystal and pranic healing on offer alongside a full hammam and beauty lounge.

Fierro Hotel
The Fierro is located in the quieter, more residential area of Palermo known as Hollywood. An intimate, boutique option, this hotel may be small but it has all the expected amenities—including a rooftop pool and sauna. Rooms are modern and tastefully appointed with writing desks, super soft sheets, and rain showers. The on-site restaurant Uco is much-loved by locals and visitors alike serving up farm-to-fork food and a full Irish breakfast in the mornings (thanks to influence of Irish chef Ed Kerrigan). A hidden gem behind the property is the garden, a verdant space that feels like the tropics—it's a great spot to sit with a post-dinner drink under the twinkling lights strung between the trees. The Fierro is not the over-the-top option but it’s comfortable, practical, and has its own charm.

Home Hotel
Every corner of Home is considered, from the décor to the garden to the accoutrements they offer guests (including a totally current city guide, written in-house). It's the first boutique hotel in BA to have a sustainable bent (the swimming pool is heated with solar power), and its accommodations read more like a stay in the city's coolest artist's home–with all the extras. The design incorporates a retro appeal with its gorgeous use of colorful vintage wallpaper throughout, punctuated by stunning Mid-century furniture, all of which makes it one of the more aesthetically unique places we've stayed. What makes this hotel stand apart, though, is its outdoor pool and garden area, which is best enjoyed in the morning while indulging in the hotel's stellar authentic Argentine breakfast, or at night with a glass of Malbec. And its location is ideal: tucked along a leafy street in Palermo Hollywood, it makes for a quiet respite if you're looking to totally unplug, or a convenient basecamp if you'd rather explore some of the city's best restaurants, all of which are within striking distance.

Hub Porteño
A converted townhouse with a mere eleven rooms, Hub Porteño is one of the newer kids on the block, having opened its doors in 2013. The rooftop space is a slice of Latin bohemia with vibrant upholstered sofas, candles, sculptural wooden furniture, and a garden. The concierge are experts in curating special experiences whether it be a cooking class or a polo excursion. The 600 thread-count sheets, spacious rooms, and marble swathed bathrooms (each one with a beautiful antique dressing table) are perfect spaces to retreat from the city chaos and recharge. With a small gym and sauna in the basement, Hub Porteño is a snug, cozy experience that feels more akin to staying in someone’s tastefully-appointed home than a hotel.

Palacio Duhau - Park Hyatt Buenos Aires
As far as classic neighborhoods go, few can really top BA’s Recoleta, and no place better captures the glamour and history quite like the Palacio Duhau - Park Hyatt Buenos Aires. Its imposing façade, in a Neoclassical style, was inspired by grand European architecture, and is made up of two buildings, a 1930's Palace and a more contemporary building called Posadas. While there are 165 rooms in total, it’s best to request one of the 23 rooms in the original palace. The rooms on the palace side tend to be more of a balance between old a new: there are stucco fireplaces, French windows, and crystal fixtures. The rooms in Posadas have a minimalist bent, with pale wood flooring, a soothing neutral palette punctuated by jewel tones, and black-and-white photographs of old BA in addition to unbeatable views. The two buildings are connected by an underground gallery lined with an impressive collection of important Latin American art. Between the two towers, a beautifully manicured garden terrace and patio serve as one of the very best seats in the house. Particularly charming is La Floreria del Duhau, on the ground level, where you can see some of the hotel’s grand arrangements being put together as well as pack up your own bouquet to take away.

Sofitel Buenos Aires Recoleta
This hotel in the Recoleta neighborhood oozes with Art Deco touches. While the rooms aren’t the the biggest draw (they've utilized a beige-y, champagne palette with purple accents), they're comfortable and spacious with all the requisite amenities. The lobby and communal area however, are beautifully ornate and have French feel. The library in particular is cozy, the kind of inviting space that encourages you to curl up with a book and a coffee (or cocktail) for a slow afternoon. Other amenities include a pool and spa, as well as a pretty outdoor garden. The real draw is walkability to many of BA's best restaurants and cultural spots.

Bar du Marché
Open all day, this restaurant resembles a classic French brasserie with its simple wooden tables and throwback checkerboard floors. Interestingly, the menu is more Paris-meets-Tokyo with both charcuterie and sashimi on offer, alongside some of the best sushi in the city. With over fifty wines available by-the-glass, Bar Du Marché is a solid spot to start your evening with a few small plates and a glass of wine before moving on to a larger steakhouse dinner. The breakfast is also worth noting: stop by for egg and toast dishes, creamy hot chocolate, and a sampling of their deliciously flaky pastries—many of which are filled with Argentina’s favorite sweet condiment, dulce de leche.

Basa
Set in a subterranean space, the décor at Basa is contemporary and minimal. Everything is dark—the furniture, the lighting, even the walls, which contributes to the moody, sexy atmosphere. The menu is Mediterranean-inflected, but in classic Buenos Aires fashion, also meat-heavy, spanning everything from rich pastas and grilled lobster to tapas-style dishes like croquetas and calamari. We suggest stopping in for a cocktail or two and some small bites to start off an evening, which, in this city, is likely to last into the early hours.

El Burladero
In a city heaving with steakhouses and (surprisingly) traditional Italian restaurants, El Burladero is a gem for those craving decidedly Spanish flavors. A fun spot where the white brick walls are adorned with paintings (and plenty of red and yellow accents in case you forget where you are), the seating is a mix of booths and intimate tables, high ceilings, and excellent service. Upon arrival, you’ll be served a little amuse bouche, juicy olives, and salty warm bread to get the appetite going. In terms of the menu, while all the plates pack a punch, the tortilla Espanola (paper-thin slices of potato and onion cooked into a type of cake with plenty of olive oil) is melt-in-your-mouth good and a must order—especially when washed down with a few jugs of refreshingly tart sangria.

Elena
Housed within The Four Seasons Hotel, Elena is inspired by the storied life led by Elena Peña Unzué, the lady of the mansion on the hotel grounds (where many of the suites are located). It’s a chic, split-level space with monochromatic, marble chevron floors, leather walls, and sculptural light fixtures that cast a soft glow. In direct contrast with many of the city’s mom-and-pop old-school operations, Elena feels truly modern. Expect dry-aged steaks, Argentinian Kobe beef, rotisserie chicken, and perfectly cooked vegetable sides—paired with a stellar wine list, of course.

Fervor
Fervor is one of those goldmine restaurants that serves excellent food matched by exceptional service. An old-world steakhouse that exudes all the charm of a time gone by—with its floor-to-ceiling velvet drapes, checkerboard floors, red leather booths, and soft lighting—the interior feels classic and clubby yet nostalgic. The chefs dry-age all the meat, allowing the enzymes to break down, which results in melt-in-the-mouth tenderness and a more concentrated flavor. The steaks are then charcoal-grilled for smokiness and a thick crust that pairs so well with a robust glass of Malbec. Start off with a pisco sour and prepare to stay late.

La Brigada
Located on old-time San Telmo, this spot has been serving carnivorous Porteños their steak for two decades. La Brigada provides the nostalgia of old-school restaurants of yesteryear that any traditionalist will love—small tables are packed closely together, the walls are covered in paintings, references to home team the Boca Juniors, and images of notable Argentinians. Beneath the dining room is a cavernous brick wine cellar, home to thousands of bottles with a long wood table set up for subterranean tastings. In case there's any question as to the restaurant’s food focus, the menus are encased in cowhide and contain pages of nose-to-tail options from lamb tongue to every cut of steak imaginable—expertly seared for a dark crust and meat so tender the waiters actually slice it with a spoon. The deserts don’t disappoint either and in keeping with the overall vibe, you’ll find decidedly old-fashioned (but no less delicious) comforting treats like bread pudding, chocolate mousse, and baked apples to finish.

La Cabrera
Steak and all its many accompaniments are what this Buenos Aires institution is best known for. While we do recommend booking ahead, the inconvenience of standing in line outside is definitely tempered by the flutes of sparkling wine the waiters often disperse to the waiting crowd. The steak options are endless, with every possible cut finished with various sauces and butters. La Cabrera has a comforting, dimly lit, slightly kooky interior that encourages you to settle in for the evening—the walls are covered in plates and clocks while the tables are of the white-tablecloth variety.

La Cocina
Casa Cavia—this restaurant-slash-retail concept in a stunningly renovated Belle Époque mansion is home to La Cocina, the toughest reservation to snag in the city. In keeping with the house's creative vibe (it’s also home to a publisher and bookstore), the menu is incredibly inventive and unusual (roasted bone marrow with cassava, rice with stewed flowers, or for desert, a marshmallow, barley, and peanut fudge), and is accompanied by an equally impressive cocktail menu (try the Fitzgerald which marries juniper essence with Patagonian pear cider). Food aside, the interior is reason alone to make a reservation—inspired by the cafés of the 1920s, the space is all marble, brass, chevron floors, and antique mirrors—it feels airy and fresh, yet incredibly refined. If you can’t commit to dinner, stop by for a sweet Argentinian breakfast of dulce de leche stuffed baked goods and coffee to soak up all the design details in the daylight hours.

Mishiguene
Translating from Yiddish as ‘crazy or eccentric’, Mishiguene serves up what they self-describe as ‘immigrant cuisine’—essentially dishes sprung from the food memories of immigrant Jews around the world. Friday is the night to try and snag a booking, especially as on the Sabbath, the meal is accompanied by live Klezmer music. Argentinian chef Tomás Kalika honed his culinary craft in Jerusalem, helped along by his grandmother’s recipes. Kalika’s menu takes the diner on a journey through Ashkenazi, Sephardic, Israeli, and Middle Eastern food traditions. The space itself is cozy and convivial, filled with tables of varying sizes, walls lined with photographs and, more often than not, a super fun crowd. Order whole roasted cauliflower dressed up with labneh, matbucha, and silky tahini to enjoy alongside the sensational homemade breads (sesame bagels, Israeli pitta, raisin challah). The pastrami comes in salty slabs, the latkes are crispy, and the tangy hummus should be drizzled liberally on every plate.

Patagonia Sur
A reservation is essential for what always turns out to be a truly special evening. This is Francis Mallman’s restaurant in the heart of one of Buenos Aires’ oldest (and on occasion dicey) neighborhoods, La Boca. Press the buzzer and be welcomed into what feels like dining at the chef’s home. The dinnerware is a little mismatched, the walls are covered in assorted paintings and prints, plush red velvet drapes dress each window, and low hanging lamps create that ambient moody light that makes you want to linger for an extra glass of wine. Steaks are the order of the day here (be sure to specify that rare means rare, as oftentimes Argentinians err on the side of well-done). Yes, it's an extravagance, but the atmospheric intimacy of the surroundings, and of course, the food itself, more than justify a trip to La Boca.

Piegari
This award-winning Italian mainstay is housed in the elegant Recoleta neighborhood. Piegari has all the bells and whistles associated with a fine dining establishment–white tablecloths, a stellar wine list, and superior service. The sizable dining room packs out, locals and visitors alike show up night-after-night to this classic but modern spot for reliably good Italian fare (read: lots of pasta).

UCO
Located in the boutique Fierro Hotel, UCO is a wine-centric restaurant (named for Mendoza’s Uco region) with over 300 labels available and helmed by Irish chef Ed Holloway. The interior is rustic, and almost Scandinavian-looking with textural walls of contrasting planks of wood and big windows looking out onto the greenery outside. Chef Holloway presents a true farm-to-fork menu with everything down to the charcuterie prepped in-house daily. Open for all three meals, UCO is probably one of the only restaurants in South America to offer a full Irish breakfast alongside the typically sweeter Argentinian options. If you need a break from all the steak, try one of their vegetarian or fish paellas, while the eighteen-hour shoulder of Patagonian lamb is utterly unforgettable. Early bird eaters should try lunch over dinner as ideally, dinner should be eaten at around 9pm to make the most of the convivial atmosphere that's as paramount to the restaurant’s atmosphere as the food.

Bar Los Galgos
The original owner of this jazz bar was an enthusiastic dog-racer, hence the name Los Galgos, which translates to "the greyhounds." It's a determinedly old-school joint, where in lieu of beer taps, the booze flows from vintage goosenecks, the tables are Formica-topped, and the mirrored bar is a relic of times gone by.

Bar Plaza Dorrego
Bar Plaza Dorrego is one of those super-evocative, classic, old-school spots with the requisite checkered floor, suited-up waiters, and dusty wine bottles. The old wood bar is covered in the scrawled etchings of customers past and present, and some of the waiters have been working the floor for over two decades. Take a seat at the bar and order a few drinks (teetotalers try their famous submarino—hot milk with a little added chocolate), and traditional Argentine snacks to the sound of tango music for the quintessential BA evening.

Bar 878
Ocho7ocho (as the locals call it) is packed to the rafters, night after night and deservedly so. Located—like many of the city's bars and restaurants—in a converted townhouse, the vibe is laid-back and relatively unfussy with low sofas, smooth stone walls, and dark lighting—it kind of feels akin to being in a cave. The cocktails are excellent, but this is also the kind of bar to kick back with a simple, but well-made gin and tonic and catch up with a friend.

Café Rivas
Café Rivas serves food and drinks all day in a space about as charming as they come (that happens to be located on one of the more picturesque, cobbled corners of the city). Dining options are of the classically Argentinian variety (steaks, breaded pork cutlets), and the weekend brunch is excellent but, really this is a spot to sit at the bar with a glass of full-bodied wine or creamy coffee and unwind—ideally after a few hours spent browsing the San Telmo flea market.

Florería Atlántico
This bar—submerged beneath a pretty flower shop—is helmed by the city’s most revered bartender, Tato Giovannoni. The cocktail list is a celebration of the immigrant-led cultural fusion that is the backbone of this Latin city. Tato makes his own homemade gin (a pretty novel endeavor in Argentina), unusually—and patriotically—flavored with eucalyptus, yerba mate, and grapefruit. The basement bar itself is minimalist and urban with whitewashed walls, a chalkboard menu, and a long bar brightened up with yellow stools. Small plates are available, but be sure to book well in advance for table service.

The Harrison Speakeasy
A riff on the fish market speakeasy operated by the notorious Harrison family in New York during the Prohibition, this iteration (authentically located underneath a sushi restaurant) recreates all of the illicit drama of the period. The real Nicky Harrison—a jailbird who later fled New York—wound up finding life and love in Buenos Aires and every detail in this bar is an ode to his story. (Even the menus feature newspaper clippings detailing Harrison’s 1930 incarceration.) The well-stocked bar is manned by guys who know what they're doing, too.

Isabel
Conveniently next door to BA hot spot Casa Cruz, Isabel is equally as glamorous as her neighbor. An upscale bar, the decor has that seductive, seventies vibe going on—gilded doors, a roaring fireplace, plush velvet booths, and mood-setting dim lighting. If you can get past the tight door, the martinis are the thing to order.

Pony Line at the Four Seasons
Inspired by Argentina’s polo-loving lifestyle, Pony Line has become a destination in and of itself for both visitors and resident Porteños (despite its hotel location which can sometimes be a real mood-killer). This bar is beautiful and so aesthetically different—the walls, floors, and bar are composed patchwork-style of varying shades of timber. The combination of natural materials and neutral colors feels immediately relaxing and warm—it's the kind of place you want to settle into the cozy, tan, leather banquettes with a drink in hand and stay all night. The libations range from champagnes and cocktails to locally-made artisanal beers with a solid small bites menu (oxtail empanadas, truffle fries) to keep you going.

Uptown BA
A pretty novel concept, this bar is a complete reconstruction of the NYC subway, as if it’s in transit from the Bronx to Uptown—yet, unlike the subway, this bar also manages to feel illicit, swanky, and clean. From the guys behind the Harrison Speakeasy, no stone was left unturned here—they’ve thought of every detail from the subway tiles that cover nearly every surface and the turnstile you need to pass through, to the actual subway car that holds the bar. This, however is no ordinary subway car, inside is a chic space with leather booths, towering ceilings, and a bar manned by booze experts mixing up themed cocktails to a soundtrack of rap and R&B.

Victoria Brown Bar
A speakeasy, designed to resemble a Victorian-era factory (hence the name), the ambiance is dark and cozy with circular leather booths, low lighting, and truly excellent cocktails. Settle in for a few aperitifs and small plates to tide you over until dinner, which given Buenos Aires’s dining schedule typically gets going around 10 p.m.

Café Tortoni
Tortoni is more akin to a ballroom than a café, yet it’s imposing size does not deter from the grand, turn-of-the-century continental café décor. The towering ceilings, colonnaded walkways, and white-collared waiters delivering strong cortados and cake to packed tables feels a lot like stepping back in time. Settle into this long-standing institution for a few solo hours with a good book and work your way through several coffees for some of the best people-watching in the city.

Croque Madame
In a city that has a picturesque café on every corner, Croque Madame has the distinguishing factor of being part of the very beautiful Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes. The outdoor terrace is a buzzy, cozy situation surrounded by lush greenery, the ideal spot for a continental breakfast (flaky croissants, OJ, endless jam), or a quick coffee. While admittedly there are a few Croque Madame Café’s dotted around the city, this one is all about the location—surrounded by museums, it's perfect for a caffeine-centric pick-me-up between exhibits (with some stellar people-watching on the side).

FARINELLI
Farinelli has the feel of a traditional French bakery and the appearance of a thoroughly modern operation. Small but mighty, the menu is loaded with healthy options, and given that Farinelli is a determinedly seasonal café—everything is homemade. Choose from sandwiches, salads, cakes, juices, and signature desserts (anything Dulce de Leche). Portions are small but the flavors are assertive, leaving you feeling satisfied. Inarguably chic, the interior is covered in white tiles and walls with red trim, which feels clean, pared-back, and contemporary. The few seats out front are made for sitting back with a strong coffee (or juice) and watching the locals go by.

LAB
LAB is a hyper-contemporary space aptly named given they treat the roasting and brewing process much like a precise science. A café for the true coffee connoisseur, every accouterment is available here from Chemex and V60, to an Aeropress for the perfect custom brew. Décor-wise, the space is a mix of white walls and blonde wood with low-hanging modern lamps and plenty of natural light. Aside from the incredible coffee, we recommend the grilled cheese or a sweet-savory slice of banana bread if you're feeling peckish.

La Biela
While the service at this long-standing café can sometimes be a little lax, sitting outside on an elegant Recoleta street with a coffee in hand is the quintessential Buenos Aires experience. La Biela has occupied this leafy, shady corner for decades and is much-loved by the neighborhood's occupants. The people watching—both inside and out—is pure gold and the old-world interior filled with bustling, white-shirted waiters and automobile paraphernalia doesn't hurt. Stick to beverages and pastries here, save a full meal for one of Recoleta's incredible steakhouses—like Fervor, for example—instead.

Ninina
A modern (by Buenos Aires standards) café and bakery serving up extravagant cakes in a minimalist setting, you wouldn't be blamed for thinking you’ve stepped into a Stockholm fika spot. Ninina's décor is decidedly Scandinavian, with walls, floors, and tables all made of polished blonde wood. The bar, in contrast, is a sheet of white marble showcasing traditional cakes covered in clouds of whipped cream, stiff meringue, and fresh berries. A mellow spot for an afternoon coffee and slice of cake, they also serve breakfast and lunch with an American slant—avocado toast, eggs, smoked salmon, waffles, and refreshing smoothies.

Próspero Velazco
The work of acclaimed patissier Próspero Velazco (who trained under Francis Mallmann, no less), this is no ordinary bakery. The bread, croissants, tarts, and cakes are all baked fresh daily and resemble miniature sweet sculptures. The space is charm personified, with all the confectionary displayed in glass cases, stacks of porcelain cups and saucers lining the shelves, and pretty blue tables and chairs scattered throughout for those wanting to sit in and enjoy a decadent éclair or tart slice of lemon pie.

Anushka Elliot
Anushka Elliot's ethereal dresses and tunics in loose linens and floaty silks serve as ideal transitional pieces, perfect for both the pampas and the city. A little bohemian, her designs are a reflection of time spent studying in Palermo and in London with a stint at American Vogue. By appointment only, Elliot’s Palermo showroom is well worth a visit if you're looking for one-of-a-kind pieces you can't find elsewhere or to add a heavy dose of femininity to your wardrobe.

Arandu
Argentina is known for exceptional leather craftsmanship, which is on full display in this family-owned shop. Originating in the mid-1980s, Arandu started out making bespoke leather saddles and bridles, eventually expanding to bags, boots, wallets, and other handmade items, including silver, wood, and ceramic accessories. Detailing is the focal point of every piece, down to the pristine stitching on the jackets and shoes. Leave ample time to explore the entire shop (which smells, of course, like gorgeous leather), as you're likely to find something truly special—say, a traditional steak knife made by their in-house silversmith?

Blumm Flower Co.
Tucked into the corner of the beautiful retail and restaurant concept that is Casa Cavia, walking into Blumm is an all senses on deck experience—every surface is covered in bright blooms, and their fresh scent fills the space. Owner and master florist Camila Gassiebayle is a former fashion stylist and consultant and her unique aesthetic is what sets Blumm apart. The arrangements are strictly seasonal and more bohemian than done up. Order a bunch, let Gassiebayle work her magic, and enjoy a coffee next door, or browse the chic selection of vases, pots, and botanically themed books (all of which make great gifts).

Casa Cavia
Some people head to Casa Cavia for the flowers, others for the books–we go for the incredible mix of both, as well as its stellar restaurant and gorgeous perfumery. This hybrid concept shop is actually a multi-use space inhabiting a drop-dead gorgeous 1920's Palermo home, renovated by design team Kallos Turin. When you first walk in, you're hit with the scent of the fresh florals artfully arranged in bouquets and displayed in each room. The first floor hosts the florist, Fueguia 1833 parfumerie, shop, and restaurant, where chef Pablo Massey offers his inventive take on traditional Argentinian dishes. There's also an impeccable garden and the in-house Ampersand Publishing company which produces and sells books all in one place. On the second floor, there's a beautiful library where they host readings, presentations, and classes. Pro tip: Come late afternoon to peruse the wares, have a glass of wine, and stay for an early dinner (a rarity, given the city's proclivity to eat late, but so worth it for the quiet).

Casa Fagliano
This atelier—founded by an Italian husband and wife duo in 1892—makes, arguably, the most superlative polo boots in the world. Despite the longevity of this family business, practices have remained largely unchanged, with the boots still made by hand in the store to this day—more often than not by octogenarian Rodolfo Fagliano himself. The artisanal production process is painstaking in its detail—leathers are selected for durability and softness (the Fagliano’s prefer cordovan, calfskin, and buffalo hide), and soles are cut and prepared all on a 1920s sewing machine. While a pair of these exquisite handmade boots don't come cheap and the waiting list can be months-long, for the true polo-enthusiast these boots are worth it. Every detail is customizable, from the leather to the thread color to the type of brass nails used. If you absolutely must have a piece of this craftsmanship in your life without the hefty price tag, Casa Fagliano also offers a selection of other leather products like watch straps and belts.

El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Buenos Aires is typically known for its tango and steak, but the written word is also a big deal around here with a bookstore on practically every corner. El Ateneo is not your run-of-the-mill bookseller: housed in a former grand theater built in 1919, this imposing, cavernous space is now packed floor-to-ceiling with books set amidst the original ornate fixtures. A particularly thoughtful detail is the in-store café, built onto what was once the tango stage, and still framed by dramatic red velvet drapes. Spend a few hours taking it all in and wrap up with a strong cortado center stage.

El Camarin
What we love most about El Camarin is its completely considered and unique inventory. Owner Yanina Solnicki sources the most beautiful vintage dresses, which she and her team restore in-house. Tucked inside Recoleta's promenade gallery, the small shop has a healthy inventory yet is somehow easy to manage, too. You'll also find new pieces from several modern Argentine lines–and given Solnicki's penchant for lace and chiffon, this boutique has become a go-to for brides looking for a one-of-a-kind dress.

Gil Antiguedades
While San Telmo is known for its incredible Sunday street fair, the bounty of antique stores and quaint restaurants make it a worthy destination any day of the week. Case in point: this impressive boutique specializing in early- and mid-century vintage clothing and homewares. The space feels like an artful labyrinth packed with accessories and clothes—from flapper dresses to lace wedding gowns—all of which is meticulously displayed between rows of beaded necklaces and Bakelite bracelets. The upstairs houses most of the homewares, including rare china, vintage crystal, and gorgeous textiles. A collector's dream.

Sadaels
Juan Hernandez Daels is a Belgian-Argentinian designer who studied both in Antwerp and in London’s Central St. Martins. Having cut his teeth at Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons before launching his own flagship in Buenos Aires in 2014, it's no wonder at all that his line is defined by sharp tailoring and conceptual silhouettes—expect beautifully deconstructed separates with plenty of cocktail attire thrown in.

JT
Argentinian designer Jessica Trosman (formerly of the label TrosmanChurba) is the proprietress of what many would agree is the most stylistically dynamic boutique in the city. Located in a renovated warehouse, the space—all whitewashed walls with a dramatic mirrored glass structure surrounded by suspended greenery acting as a dressing room in the center—is a true pleasure to shop. (Trosman’s design studio is out back and you’ll often spy her sketching away through the glass walls.) Admittedly, the candy-colored and dip-dyed patterns and elaborate, over-the-top silhouettes are not for everyone, those in the market for something truly unexpected will hit the motherlode here.

Panorama
Panorama is one of the more avante-garde boutiques in the city in the sense that the owners (a trio of Argentine designers) adhere strictly to stocking the best edit of emerging Argentinian talent. The store itself is a completely white space, save a few pops of neon, highlighting the colors and textures of the pieces displayed. Browse through buttery leather bags by Le Bas, chunky knits from Maydi, and dresses from a handful of under-the-radar brands. This multi-line concept store is the perfect for bringing home something you won't find anywhere else in the world.

Libros del Pasaje
Proof that this city holds culture and literature in the highest regard, BA is known for having the most bookstores per capita in the world. Passage stands out for its incredible inventory, which includes first editions and a decent amount of literature in English. The staff is approachable and insanely knowledgeable, but the best part is the overall vibe: the music is always edgy and perfect for the setting (think: Massive Attack, The White Stripes, and Jane's Addiction), and there's a cozy café in the back that makes for a great spot to post up with a book and coffee on a lazy Saturday.

Tramando SA
Tramando designer Martin Churba is so fixated on the quality and innovative elements of his textiles that he has his own lab specifically for experimenting. Churba produces ready-to-wear pieces that are hyper-modern in both silhouette and fabrication (think of him as the Argentinian Rick Owens). Shirts are either wildly patterned or unexpectedly sheer, the cocktail pieces, meanwhile, are chic and modern. The are four stores in the city, so you can't miss it.

arteba
arteba was founded in 1991 in an effort to strengthen the city’s domestic art market. The foundation has evolved into one of Latin America’s most significant art fairs (last year drew more than 100,000 visitors), bringing Argentinian art to the international market and vice versa. Typically the fair takes place in May and features approximately 300 curators, collectors, and artists. The organizers also produce an excellent bi-annual magazine covering the domestic art scene for those who cannot attend, or are just interested in keeping up.

Bosques de Palermo
An urban park that acts as effectively as a communal backyard for millions of Porteños with three artificial lakes for boating, trails for walking and biking, as well as that delightful fusion of culture and the outdoors that many Latin cities do so well. The 989 acres are teeming with pretty groves and rose gardens (home to over 12,000 roses), but our favorite is the Poet’s Garden, filled with bronze busts of famous wordsmiths from Pirandello to Shakespeare.

Faena Art Center
A non-profit with a second location in Miami, the Faena Art Center provides a platform for local and new artists to exhibit and bring their work into the public sphere, as well as plays host to international exhibits. The center in Puerto Madero is built into what was once one of Argentina’s largest flour mills and thankfully many of the unique turn-of-the-century industrial details were retained. The ceilings are soaring, and huge 1900's-style bay windows flood the space with light. Exhibits have included multi-disciplinary artist Typoe’s 'Forms of Life', where the artist created a fantastical futuristic city, vivid with the colors of Miami (Typoe’s birthplace) with children’s building blocks—visitors were encouraged to construct their own future worlds—while another recent exhibit was choreography based.

Herlitzka & Co.
Herlitzka & Co. concentrates on geometric abstraction and the more conceptual Latin American art. The gallery gives a platform to new and established artists as well regularly hosting cutting-edge exhibits—recent examples include Mirtha Dermisache, and Carlos Ginzberg’s New Capitalism show, a meditation on modern commercialism and exploitation through the lens of photographs and placards. Faria keeps his finger on the pulse and his gallery is a must-visit for creatives and art-lovers curious about Argentina's domestic art scene.

Il Caminito
The La Boca neighborhood of Buenos Aires has a reputation for being a little touristy, however considering it's home to the Boca Juniors stadium, and many of the city’s best restaurants, the charming street is well worth the trip (and is walkable from quaint San Telmo). The caminito is just as described, a little walk through what was once an immigrant Italian neighborhood still called La Boca (or the mouth) thanks to it’s harborside location. The area’s charm lies in the mish-mash of brightly painted houses situated along the cobbled streets that are lined with artists and craftspeople. Many of the walls are covered in murals that delve into the social and political themes present in Porteño life. Go for a wander, take in the sights and—if you’re organized enough—book at table at one of La Boca’s restaurants for dinner.

La Bomba de Tiempo
If there's one sweat-inducing, invigorating, authentic experience to be had in BA, it's this: A group of talented percussionists perform a mix of improvised drumming every Monday at Konex, the city's cutting edge, slightly gritty, cultural center. The music is loud and totally infectious–you'll find everyone dancing in the audience, which is an eclectic crowd—everything from local die-hard fans of all ages to tourists. The set runs for about three hours, but it literally flies by, leaving you wanting more. Head there early to get a spot near the crowd exterior (the middle can get rowdy) and wear sneakers and comfortable clothing–you'll be on your feet for hours.

La Ciudad Universitaria de Buenos Aires
Universities are the often-overlooked, yet most ideal locations to really feel out the cultural and political pulse of a city. Buenos Aires’s Ciudad Universitaria is a sprawling campus based on an urban plan drafted by seminal French architect Le Corbusier in 1938. The buildings are fairly Brutalist is style (a change from the typically ornate structures that dominate the city landscape), and the campus is covered in graffiti, political banners, and cultural references—an unusual but authentic spot to walk around and really take in the civic undertones of the city.

Museo de Arte Contemporaneo
The city’s Museum of Contemporary Art is relatively new, having opened in 2012 in the lively San Telmo neighborhood adjacent to MAMBA. MACBA is primarily dedicated to displaying the art collection of financier Aldo Rubino, which has a heavy focus on geometric abstraction. Other artists exhibited include international names like Le Parc and Vasarely, and Argentine artists like Fabian Burgos and Veronica di Toro. A recent initiative promoted the works of female artists in exhibits curated by women.

Museo de Arte Moderno
The Museum of Modern Art (not to be confused with from MACBA which focuses on purely contemporary artists), is dedicated to displaying modern art from the 1920's to the present day. The collection encompasses over 7,000 works by both Argentine and international artists spanning everything from photography to graphic and industrial design.

Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
This museum not only houses Argentina’s largest collection of fine art, it's the largest public collection in all of Latin America—over 12,000 pieces of 19th-century European Art sit alongside a substantial Argentinian offering. The permanent collection is incredibly varied and includes stunning works be Rembrandt and El Greco. Don’t miss the Goya room, filled with the striking sketches and paintings by the artist, many depicting topics like death and war in the Napoleonic period. Impressionism lovers will find an expansive selection of works by Manet, Monet, Renoir, and Degas, alongside sculptures by Rodin and some Modernist pieces including a Jackson Pollack. This museum truly has something for everyone and is beautifully laid out with a robust library, a gift shop filled with collector-worthy art books, and a pretty café.

Palacio Libertad
Aside from being the largest cultural center in Latin America, Palacio Libertad occupies a stunning, French-empire style historic building that was once the city’s post office. Spread across nine floors, the center is dedicated to music, theatre, dance, and art.

Polo Season
We'd be remiss not to mention the all-important polo season when talking about Buenos Aires, or Argentina, for that matter. While there are three main events, The Tortugas Open, The Hurlingham Open, and The Argentine Polo Open Championship, the Polo Open Championship is the main event and happens in BA in what Argentinians call the 'Cathedral of Polo' in the Palermo neighborhood (typically from November into early December). Aside from all the action happening on the horses, polo events also come accompanied by some pretty serious food and late-night revelry. It's totally worth planning your trip to BA around this time of year. Trust.

Recoleta Cemetery
Built in 1822 around an existing convent, a walk through Recoleta Cemetery’s labyrinthine alleys reads like an Argentine history lesson—generals, presidents, citizens, and Eva Perón herself, are all buried here. This is truly one of the most dynamic and visually beautiful resting places in the world—covered in over 4,691 vaults and mausoleums so grand (a mixture of marble palace-like structures some perfectly maintained and some crumbling), many have been declared national monuments. The cemetery is arranged on a grid—like most modern cities—and the many thousands of decorative tombs cover all the architectural movements that have spanned the last two centuries from Art Deco to Neo Gothic.

Ruth Benzacar Galería de Arte
One of Buenos Aires's longest-standing art institutions, Ruth Benzacar was founded by Ruth herself in 1965, when in the midst of a financial crisis the matriarch transformed her then-home into a gallery space to the showcase the contemporary art collection she and her husband had amassed. These days the gallery has moved space, but continues to be a family affair, now run by Benzacar’s daughters Orly and Solana. Aside from frequent exhibits showcasing mostly contemporary Argentinian talent, the space also hosts other cultural activities like poetry readings and workshops for kids.

San Telmo Market
This market has served locals since 1897, when it was originally founded as a marketplace for the waves of European immigrants who flocked to the city during that period. Set indoors, take a moment to look up and note the original fixtures, columns, and beams that still adorn the space today. Most of the stalls—selling all manner of knick-knacks, antiques, records, and crafts—are open daily. A separate Sunday flea market happens every weekend in this same quaint plaza, oftentimes with live tango as an accompaniment. Stop by the charming Bar Plaza Dorrego for a post-flea pick-me-up.

Teatro Colón
Without question, Teatro Colón is one of the world’s most breathtaking opera houses, and has played host to all of the greats across ballet, classical music, and opera from Maria Callas to Margot Fonteyn. Whilst the building itself has gone through many incarnations amidst plenty of turmoil (an anarchist bombing in 1910, the murder of one of its architects), the latest refurbishment was completed in 2010. Architecturally, the Teatro is eclectic in style which reflects the structure's journey through the last century—the horseshoe-shaped hall (which creates an echo chamber-like sound effect), holds nearly 4,000 people and feels grand and celebratory with plenty of velvet, tapestries, and ornately carved wood. Take a tour—which includes the deep catacombs beneath the building—or dress up and attend a performance to take in the old-world grandeur and hear the incredible acoustics for yourself.
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