El Merkado

Whether you come for a meal at the farm-to-table restaurant, or to check-in and unplug in one of the twelve tree houses on the property, this place is a bucket-list must. Situated on twenty-five acres of farmland up a winding dirt road adjacent to Flora Farms, design-forward hotel offers some of the most incredible amenities (note: tree houses, fifteen feet off the ground, each with their own alfresco shower, plus terrace with palm grove views) and experiences like hiking, yoga, and access to roam the totally gorgeous on-site farm. The staff and owners are incredibly hospitable, so much so that you'll jump right into their awaiting Mezcal tasting upon arrival.

Thompson Hotels really hit the jackpot with their first Mexican property, The Cape, which sits on a sliver of San Lucas coastline that also happens to be one of the area’s best surf breaks. Architect Javier Sanchez designed the hotel so that El Arco —a crazy-looking rock formation at the very tip of the Baja Peninsula—and the Sea of Cortez are visible from every part of the property, be it one of the 161 guest rooms, the Enrique Olvera-helmed Manta restaurant, or the cliff-hugging infinity pool. The hotel itself is eco-conscious and hyper-modern, nothing like the over-the-top folksy places native to these parts. The spa, for example, is set up like a makeshift cave on its own little cliff and has private plunge pools and beachside massage cabanas.

Chileno Bay Resort & Residences provides contemporary and spacious accommodations, with gently shaded outdoor showers and lemongrass-scented organic bath products. The in-house restaurant Comal hangs over the ocean and offers an assortment of great, modern Mexican cuisine. The star of the place, though, is the ocean. Chileno Bay Resort & Residences sits on one of Cabo’s few swimmable beaches. (The volume of colorful, exotic-looking fish a few strokes from the shore is staggering.) And as a hotel guest, you have the option to snorkel (which we highly recommend), paddleboard, and surf at no cost. Follow a morning on the waves with a casual lunch of shrimp tacos and spicy elote corn at the pool bar. (Braver souls can try a shot of traditional liquor containing a full preserved serpent—we’re not braver souls). And if you’re going to book a spa appointment, this is the place to do it: The facilities at Chileno are some of the most stunning we have seen anywhere. And the treatments—everything from Aztec herbal scrubs to infrared sweatsuits—are first-rate, each one given in a private cabana.

Worlds apart from the crowds that often consume Cabo San Lucas, Costa Palmas is the 100 percent private, white-sand, translucent-blue-sea, nature-filled escape you probably didn't know existed. The one-thousand-acre property is surrounded by orchards, organic farms, and forests on one side and calm water as far as the eye can see on the other (the Sea of Cortez is famously still)—arguably one of the most beautiful spots we've ever been lucky enough to visit. The Four Seasons and Aman have properties here. Both give guests the option to chose between secluded private residences (custom-built for indoor/outdoor living with the softest daybeds, rainfall outdoor showers, fireplaces...you get the idea) or the more traditional resort experience—you can't go wrong either way. The marina accommodates boats up to 250 feet long, the spas blend in with the greenery they were built into, the golf course is second to none, and the five restaurants are fueled with bounty grown in the aforementioned organic fields.

Shortly upon arrival at El Ganzo, a whitewashed contemporary boutique hotel overlooking the San Jose Del Cabo Marina, you start to get the feeling you've beat the system: Look out from your room's glass terrace, and there's not a single resort in sight. The airy rooms are outfitted in bold, modern four-poster beds and industrial furniture made especially for the hotel. There's a rooftop infinity pool overlooking the bay with sushi on order, though if you'd prefer a secluded beach, it's just three minutes away via the private boat service provided by the hotel. Hit the spa, the gym, the recording studio, any of the bars and restaurants on site, and you're pretty much set for a full weekend of total seclusion, away from the Cabo crowd.

Esperanza is a classic resort to end all classic resorts. It’s a place to be pampered, it’s a place to comment on the service (in a good way), and it’s a place you will be met by a personal concierge with a margarita (for you) in hand. The pool scene incorporates mini massages, chilled bottles of water, and a generous offering of frozen fruit sticks when the midday heat hits. The cliff-top location on Punta Ballena (“Whale Point”)—between two private beaches overlooking the Sea of Cortez—is dramatic and stunning, especially in the winter when the humpback and gray whales migrate past. The casitas and suites are as luxe as you’d expect from an Auberge property: muted colors, natural handwoven rugs, Mexican artwork, and private whirlpool tubs. When ordering dinner at Cocina del Mar, take note: The elote corn and grilled oysters are two of the most exquisite dishes we’ve eaten in a while, and the sunset surf-and-turf experience at the beach palapa—ideal for two to four people—isn’t far behind.

If you're into more of a vacation enclave with a farm-to-table bent then head to Baja California to check into one of the ten charming Culinary Cottages at Flora Farms: a twenty-five-acre organic working farm in the foothills of Sierra de la Laguna Mountains in San Jose del Cabo. Renters and owners can submerge themselves in harvesting the heirloom vegetables–and cooking meals in the fully equipped cottages. Although access to the private beach club, family pond, pool, and spas is exclusive to owners and renters, The Field Kitchen (where the ingredients are often picks minutes before they are served), Farm Bar, and Flora Grocery (which sells sustainably raised meats, handmade breads, and organic vegetables), are open to all, expanding its culinary experience beyond the cottages.

Hacienda Beach Club is for the active holiday: Outdoor yoga, spinning, and complimentary water sports, including stand-up paddleboarding are just a few of the activities offered. And then you can unwind the kinks at the spa after. Note: These are fully-equipped villas for rent, making it a practical choice for a longer stay with the family—they have kitchens, as well as washer/dryers. It’s centrally located next to the marina and people who stay here love that they can walk to the beachfront shops and restaurants.

The crown jewel of the Rosewood resort family, Las Ventanas is situated between the historic town of San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas. The limestone suites are outfitted with original artwork, wood-burning fireplaces, and ample outdoor space. Up the romance quotient by consulting the appropriately named Department of Romance—a group of specialists dedicated to infusing your holiday with extra special touches (couples massages, elaborate moonlit dinners). At the spa, guests adhere to a four elements-themed treatment menu: grounding Earth, nurturing Water, balancing Fire, and energizing Air.

If the words “Cabo San Lucas” conjure visions of college kids doing tequila shots, let the words “One&Only Palmilla” replace those visions with palm trees, hummingbirds, and flowers the size of dinner plates. The property’s history goes back to 1956, when it served as a 15-room luxury escape for the president of Mexico. Since then, it’s been transformed into a 174-room resort with lush gardens, a pristine waterfront, top-notch service, and amenities that have their own amenities (everything from a welcome drink to turn-down service menus and personal butlers). And if you rent out one of the two private villas on the grounds, you get a whole team of personal butlers. And if that isn’t quite enough to send you running to the airport: The One&Only has one of the only swimmable beaches in Los Cabos, a spa featuring a shaman-led sweat lodge called a temazcal, and—if you’re planning a special occasion of the very special type—a historic chapel with panoramic views of the Sea of Cortez.

Perhaps one of Mexico's most interesting hotel openings of 2016, this 205-room property designed by local architect Miguel Angel Aragonés has a hypermodern aesthetic that differentiates itself from others in the region. The overall experience here is totally customizable—from the personalized in-room indoor/outdoor lighting concept which is at the guest's discretion, to room service, which is available at the touch of tablet. The design is marked by sharp lines, cream marble and travertine, Italian-made Poliform furnishings, and a stately infinity pool. As for the guest rooms? With their floor-to-ceiling windows and private outdoor space, each one appears to float on water. While the hotel has no less than five restaurants on property, it's worth leaving the campus one afternoon to head to nearby Flora's Farm, an area staple, known for its farm-to-table dishes and laid-back vibe.

When you’ve spent a few too many meals indulging in tequila and refried beans, head to Cynthia’s for fresh, vegetable-heavy salads and light fish dishes. It’s also an especially good choice for vegetarians and vegans, who sometimes have a hard time finding dishes they can eat on Cabo menus. The seabass and guacamole are both must-orders, and there’s a lovely market on the side if you’d like to do some cooking of your own.

The official designation for Chef Tadd Chapman’s brand of elevated regional comfort food is "Baja Contemporary"—and it couldn't be more spot-on: Dishes like duck ravioli, chile Wellington, and coconut milk ceviche are prepped using fish sourced from a neighboring fishing town and humanely raised, hormone-free meats from a local farmer. They took over Sanchez Organico farm and turned it into the main source for the restaurant's produce, resulting in a rich veggie-centric offering of hibiscus flautas, jicama sashimi, beet mole, and more. The outdoor courtyard—complete with twinkly lights and colorful furniture—is an idyllic spot for working your way through the wine list to a soundtrack of live jazz.

Here, the tenets of traditional Baja cuisine—lots of fresh seafood marinated in traditional spices and local produce cooked just right so no flavor is lost—translate to perfectly cooked meat and fish dishes and veggie-centric sides (many are prepped table-side, it is a tourist town after all) every time. It’s this respect for local culture—not to mention the lovely outdoor setup and wine cellar stocked with a very respectable selection of both regional and imported wines—that makes Edith’s a favorite for residents and visitors alike. The flan deserves its own special shout out, its that good.

If the reservation gods are smiling down on you, snagging a table at El Farallon can mean front row seats to a mind-blowingly spectacular sunset, followed by some of the best stargazing in the world. The restaurant is carved into a series of cliffs (it’s one of four belonging to the Waldorf Astoria Los Cabos Pedregal, a seaside hotel steps from downtown Cabo San Lucas), which serve as a fitting backdrop to the drama of the indoor-outdoor dining room. Chef Yvan Mucharraz plans his multi-course menus around the day’s fresh catch, which you get to pick out yourself from the on-site fresh fish market after an in-depth discussion of the options with a resident seafood expert.

This island of tranquility is located in San Jose del Cabo, about 40 minutes outside of Cabo. Lined with homey vegetable and flower beds and mowed green lawns, everything you’ll eat at the on-site restaurant, Flora’s Field Kitchen, is grown either on this property or at the larger farm a few miles away—that’s everything from the house-made sausages, to the jams, to the toast, to the veggie-laden Bloody Marys, to the grapefruit danishes. Meanwhile, the pristine restaurant setting—a modern farmhouse—looks like it was lifted straight out of East Hampton. There's also an old timey ice cream cart small grocery store on property, stocked with just-plucked produce, sweets, and jars of the addictive house granola. Flora Farms has been around for about 20 years, slowly but surely adding more bells and whistles—among them, exclusive cottages and a private beach club—to its organic, all-American paradise.

There's Baja cuisine, and then there’s Baja Mediterranean cuisine, which splices traditional Mexican ingredients (lots of local fish and veggies) with Mediterranean grilling techniques and liberal use of olive oil. Garden Steakhouse by Tequila—set up inside a traditional adobe house with a beautiful tree-shrouded patio—is particularly well equipped for Baja-med cooking, being that the kitchen is supplied with produce from its own certified organic farm and just-caught seafood from local fishermen. As the name suggests, the margaritas here are top notch, as is the extensive wine selection. There’s also a walk-in humidor, if you’re into that sort of thing.

The patio at this San José taco joint feels a lot like a backyard party—rustic mismatched furniture, the smell of sizzling tortillas, seemingly endless supplies of cold cervezas, and a live band that goes on as soon as the sun sets. The small-but-mighty menu has something for purists and adventurous types alike. For the former we suggest the classic Baja fish tacos and a side of guacamole; the latter will go nuts for the duck tacos and the grasshopper appetizer. The other specialty here is local Mezcal, which you can consume in shot form or mixed into craft cocktails (the mojitos are the best, but trust us, go slow).

Named after three beloved local actors, the leafy courtyard-turned-dining room is one of the more romantic settings in town. The food offering—prepped in a beautiful tiled open kitchen (legend has it the elderly owner regularly pops in to cook for guests)—is rife with classics like fresh queso, chile rellenos, and killer mole, which doused over just about anything is a must-try. Finish with the tres leches cake and a cup of their excellent Mexican coffee.

Chef Enrique Olvera may just be the biggest name in Mexican cuisine, which means that his new coastal restaurant at the Cape Hotel is a must-hit for any foodie. In a vast, dark space dotted with copper highlights and huge floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a renowned point break, he’s serving up a comforting, homey brand of Mexican with a Japanese Izakaya–meets-surfer bent—think miso fish tacos, steak tacos dipped in oyster sauce, grilled avocados, cactus and purslane salad, the list goes on. Even the waiters' outfits are a clever mix of traditions: elegant black guayaberas (A coastal Mexican style of linen shirt), baggy trousers and black skater shoes.

While the menu has been thoroughly Americanized (burgers, fries, and the like), and the margaritas come in goblets the size of your head, it doesn’t take away from the fact that this is the quintessential beach cantina experience, thanks in no small part to the unobstructed views of El Arco and deep roots within the community (the owner is Edith, as in Edith's restaurant and La Coyota). What’s more, the Mexican breakfast, sizzling fajitas, and enchiladas, fresh ceviche and pretty much all seafood-centric dishes are legitimately good.

SEARED, the One&Only Palmilla steakhouse run by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, is where you go if your dream dinner phrase is “Wagyu beef.” The place has fifteen different cuts of the finest meat, vegetable sides best described as “crazy” (in a wonderful way), and views of the Sea of Cortez that will take your breath away. The resort is a quick taxi over from town if you’re staying in San José del Cabo. And while you’re there, take advantage: A post-dinner walk on the winding resort grounds makes a great dessert. (But still: Order dessert.)

This is where the locals go for tacos. Close to 30 years ago the tiny mom-and-pop operation started out serving simple Baja-style shrimp tacos—to this day, it’s still the most popular menu item—and has since broadened its repertoire to include taco versions of nopales, cochinita pibil, grilled cactus, and more. Everything is made using time-honored family recipes and the freshest local ingredients.

The garden restaurant at Los Tamarindos is the epitome of farm-to-table dining in that you can literally see the farm that supplied your meal from your table. Minutes from central San Jose del Cabo, this 17-acre working farm is 100% committed to spreading the gospel of sustainable farming techniques, so make sure to sign up for a walking tour before settling in for one of Chef Enrique Silva’s excellent seasonal meals. And don’t leave without popping into the gift shop for traditional Oaxacan textiles and silks or artisan-made clay and tin products. Better yet, take it one step further and sign up for a cooking class. If you’re brave, buy a few jars of habañeros and black mole from the tiny organic market.

If you're looking for a rowdier night out without going full-on "spring break," Bar Esquina's Moroccan-inspired outdoor terrace—complete with nightly live music and a killer cocktail menu—is your best bet. It's the house restaurant at The Hotel Bahia in Cabo San Lucas, so even if you came to party, you've got a full menu of locally sourced small plates at your disposal. Come back for a potent espresso or a little hair of the dog the morning after.

The drive up the long, winding dirt track to Flora Farms can be discombobulating. You’ll repeatedly look at your GPS, wondering whether this really is the right road. It is. And the bumpy drive is worth it. First, order the bloody Mary—a masterpiece of a drink in which the garnishes could make up a meal. Then indulge in one of their sticky buns, with crunchy caramelized walnuts, and afterward, walk over to El Wine Bar y Café. The small space is impeccably kitted out. Aside from their wide selection of Mexican and Napa Valley wines (there are dozens of options by the glass), their coffee is easily the smoothest cup in Los Cabos. We couldn’t help but purchase a few bags of beans to take home, plus a few of their delicate cups to sip from.

The rooftop at this designy hotel looks like something out of a fairytale: flowering plants, hidden nooks, an actual stream, and a trellised beer garden in addition to a bar. Once a month, the hotel flies in a celebrity DJ for an all-out dance party. All that said, it's the panoramic views that reach as far as the marina and El Arco that are the real draw.

Geographically speaking, this now famous cafe is actually in the desert near Pescasdero, about 45 minutes from Cabo, making it a great spot to pull over for an iced latte on the way to Todos Santos—just know that the incredibly chill outdoor patio is kind of hard to leave. As good as the ambiance is, it's the beans, which the Canadian expat owners source from a family farm in Puebla and roast in a massive Probat, that make a simple cup of coffee here into an experience. Make sure to grab a bag of beans for the road.

This amazing grocery store offers organic, vegan, and even kosher groceries in a surprisingly wide variety, making it an essential resource if you’re cooking or staying in town for a while. You can use their website to order grocery delivery straight to your door.

This little coffee spot in downtown San Jose looks like it might be more at home in Brooklyn than Mexico—the modern interior features minimal wooden stools and a gleaming white espresso machine. The patio is set up with scattered tables that are great for chatting with locals while snacking on a panini or breakfast sandwich (which are always made fresh). Ask about the smoothies.

Since most tourists come to Los Cabos during the winter months when fresh produce is starting to dwindle back home, the organic farmers market in San José is one of the most appealing places in town. Peruse out-of-season produce, like tomatoes and avocados, or pick up some prepared foods like tamales or insanely good homemade ice cream.

Tacos aside, all we ever want to drop pesos on in Mexico are ceramics and maybe some local olive oil. But the exquisite unglazed pieces you seriously contemplate slipping in your purse in restaurants and hotels (we would never!) are hard to find. Store-owner and Frenchwoman Anne Sidora came to Los Cabos on vacation and never went home. The curator’s space by Flora Farms brings together stunning cups, candles, soaps, and leather pieces made by Mexican artisans. It’s impossible to leave this beautifully merchandised store empty-handed—each exquisite item has been hand chosen, and it shows.

Be sure to have your GPS turned on before you go because the turnoff for Artesano’s is easy to miss. Also, come armed with pesos—it’s cash only. Okay, now let’s talk about the shopping. This massive warehouse is where interior decorators and the design-minded go when they’re looking for a local, artisanal vibe. The sprawling main floor has rows upon rows of traditional Mexican ceramics (ashtrays and soap dishes and tea kettles and urns and bulk tiles and...) as far as the eye can see. The upper floors are packed to the rafters with outdoor furniture, wood carvings, handwoven straw baskets, and so much more.

Think of Curios Carmela in downtown San Jose del Cabo is as a souvenir shop on steroids. Upon walking in, don’t let the sight of kitschy shot glasses, pun-y t-shirts, and oversized sombreros discourage you. Dig a little deeper and you’ll also find piles of traditional Mexican fabrics, toys, craftsman-made pottery, and so much more at super wallet-friendly prices.

Stop by any day of the week and it’s likely you’ll find Eduardo himself manning the floor at his cavernous showroom-slash-workshop. The pieces are made predominantly of silver and incorporate Mexican, Italian, and French coins (a Sanchez signature) into the designs. While undeniably statement making, the rings, bracelets, and cuffs are not at all gaudy—a great option if you want to come home with one great piece of silver jewelry.

Located in a part of Los Cabos tourists don’t really know about, this gorgeous colonial style hacienda used to be the home of none other than Edith Jimenez (as in Edith’s restaurant and The Office) until she decided to convert the house into a store where every room is organized by theme and every conceivable surface is shoppable. One of the bedrooms is decked entirely in embroidered linens, the kids room is packed with dolls, plush toys, games, and accessories revolving around the Day of the Dead, while the second floor landing is outfitted floor-to-ceiling in crucifixes and sacred hearts. In the open air courtyard there are hand-blown glass ornaments in every color and size imaginable and even more pottery, curio boxes, light fixtures, art, and countless other treasures for sale.

This is where you go to invest in museum-quality handmade silver, handcrafted pottery, and to see the broadest display of traditional Huichol beaded sculptures. During high season, the owners bring in Artists to demonstrate how these colorful, large-scale pieces come together.

We first stumbled upon Santo Cabo’s hand-poured activated charcoal and eucalyptus-scented soaps while browsing the shops at Flora's Farm. Their shop is home to more than just these organic, locally-sourced, hand-poured soaps. For example, there’s a range of baby products, avocado massage oil, calendula face balm, and something called sand soap, which calls on Baja Sur sand as a powerful exfoliation agent.

While there are countless galleries and shops in San Jose’s historic arts district, many try to pass off mass-produced baubles as folk art. That is not the case at Silvermoon, where the focus is on spotlighting the wares of independent makers from various regions in Mexico. Here you’ll find natural lambs wool toys made by families in Chiapas, wood sculptures from Oaxaca, and pottery from a tiny village in Chihuahua, to name a few. The owner has a roster of silversmiths on call and will gladly facilitate custom orders.

Most horseback riding experiences in Cabo take you along the beach, which, while beautiful, makes for incredibly short rides. Cuadra San Francisco (which offers English-style riding) takes visitors along the beaches and also into the desert for a longer, more visually interesting ride. It’s also a full-fledged professional training center, so there are plenty of beautiful horses and skilled riders to watch.

A visit to the very end of the peninsula where the Sea of Cortes and the Pacific Ocean meet is a necessary trip for anyone visiting Los Cabos. While it’s admittedly touristy, the El Arco rock formation (locals say it looks like a dragon taking a drink of water) is breathtaking. You can hire a water taxi for sightseeing, or a glass-bottomed boat or kayak for a more hands-on adventure. The wildlife, including a healthy colony of sea lions and plenty of birds above water, makes the trip a no-brainer for littles.

On the way up the coast toward La Paz is El Triunfo, a tiny, formerly abandoned 19th-century ex-gold and silver mining town that’s absolutely worth a quick stop. It sort of feels like it’s in the middle of nowhere, and well, it is, but that’s part of its ghostly charm, which explains why so many people are buying up the abandoned miner’s homes. Head into town and have breakfast at the very cute Café El Triunfo, which is known for its unreal European-style breads and awesome cinnamon buns (plus great thin-crust pizzas later in the day). After that, head out for a walk in the former mining complex to see all the abandoned buildings­—Gustave Eiffel’s tower included—and the local desert vegetation. Serious mountain bikers can also take the bike trail, which leads deeper into the dessert. End the day at El Minero, a craft brewery that serves up incredible sausage sandwiches and award-winning paella that’s made over an open mesquite fire. The space itself is a great example of just how beautifully these abandoned buildings can be modernized.

Estero San José is located in the wetlands where the San José River and the ocean meet, creating a brackish environment that attracts hundreds of species of birds and fish. The protected area offers plenty of hiking trails for observing the wildlife, but you can also do it on horseback or rent a kayak, which gives a different perspective of the herons, egrets, pelicans, and cormorants that make the quiet preserve home. Ask your concierge to arrange.

While there's a sign marking the entrance to Pastora, the series of breaks on the outskirts of Todos Santos, compared to more prominent Los Cerritos and Las Palmas on the Pacific side, is not the easiest to find so ask a local for driving directions. Once you do get here, enjoy a nearly empty beach, meaning never fighting for your turn in the lineup (there are no lifeguards on duty, so buddy up!). For board and wetsuit rentals reach out to Mario Surf School.

A two hour drive from Cabo, La Paz is a slightly scruffier city that makes up for it with incredible sea life and a generally chilled out pace of life. Start your day with a big Mexican brunch at Maria California: Chiles rellenos, huevos a la Mexicana, enchiladas, the menu at this café is extensive, and the food delicious. You’ll need the sustenance in order to head out on the water with Baja Outdoor Activities: They organize packed itineraries (that are great for all ages) on the water, from kayaking out to see the nearby mangroves, to snorkeling and swimming with sea lions and whale sharks (if they happen to be in the neighborhood). Otherwise, head further up the coast to Balandra beach, a great little cove with beautiful rock formations, clear, shallow water, and not too many tourists. Back in town, the best restaurant for fish tacos is the Birmarckcito (Alvaro Obregon, between Constitucion and Hidalgo), a no-frills local favorite right on the boardwalk. And, if you’re not driving afterward, head to La Miserable for a deep dive into artisanal mezcals from around the country. If you’re planning on staying the night, book in at the stunning new hotel at El Mangle, an awesome local organization that promotes sustainable change in La Paz and runs the city’s recycling plant along with an educational veggie garden for local kids, and supports the fishermen’s movement to restore the scallop population. Photo: Mez Pahlan

The instructors at this Todos Santos-based surf school have a low-key yet effective approach to teaching. They set up shop daily at Los Cerritos beach where the waves are tame and the conditions perfect for first-timers who want to learn the basics along with supervised practice for those with a little more experience. Day-long guided surf excursions to off-the-radar beaches and stand-up paddleboarding tours are also available.

The name "Monuments" is a reference to El Arco and the surrounding cliffs—both clearly visible from the break. It’s a very rocky spot with a lively urchin population to keep an eye on even at high tide, so it’s best suited for the experienced surfer (if you didn’t lug your own boards get a rental at any of the shops in Cabo San Lucas). Getting here is easy: just type in hotel Misiones del Cabo into the GPS and tell the guard at the gate you’re looking to surf. You'll want to park above the break, next to Misiones del Cabo Resort.

Along with Zippers and The Rock, this mellow break—particularly well suited for longboarders and beginners—sits on the beautiful Costa Azul. Conveniently, the paddle-out point is on the beach in front of Cabo Surf Hotel where you can rent gear and sign up for lessons at the Mike Doyle Surf School.

Nestled behind the historic main square and church, San José’s arts district is definitely the best place to shop for souvenirs and authentic Mexican artwork. While there’s an enormous selection of local art, you’ll also find pieces from nationally known artists and even some international contemporary artists. If you’re in town between November and June, stop by on a Thursday night, when they close the street for a weekly art walk.

These guys will set up everything from professional coaching sessions, to beginner lessons, to guided stand-up paddle board tours, to gear rentals if you’re going at it alone, but their real claim to fame are the week-long Scorpion Bay surf camps. Designed to accommodate groups of advanced surfers, these trips include lodgings, some meals, and super knowledgeable guides.

This sleepy little surf town north of Los Cabos is a pretty 45-minute drive along the Pacific side of the peninsula. The first thing you’ll notice driving into town are the taco stands: each one has a specialty—whether it's Baja fish tacos, tacos al pastor, or carnitas—and it’s best to find out what it is the old-fashioned way: by working your way through the menus. If a proper sit-down meal is in order, grab a table at Café Santa Fe. A classic Italian restaurant may feel out of place at first, but it’s a local favorite, and it works. December is an excellent time to visit as you’ll be able to see whales migrating South, though the white-sand beaches and world-class surf breaks are all yours year-round and there are local surf schools and boating outfits to help make the best of it all. When bumming around town, don’t skip Mixtica, a quirky treasure-trove of a boutique packed with antique jewelry, gorgeous textiles, vintage clothing, and more. If you’re lucky, you’ll meet the owner, Euva—tales of her mermaid-meets-Frida Kahlo personal style have long since made their way stateside. Unless you’re hitting the road for an organic alfresco dinner and an overnight stay at Rancho Pescadero, remember that TS is also home to the fabled Hotel California, and while there are other options to book a room (Hotel Casa Tota is somehow modern and completely authentic at the same time), it’s certainly worth stopping by for dinner or at the very least, a really solid margarita.

Wild Canyon Adventures is admittedly touristy, but when it comes to the kind of action-filled adventures that tire kids out on vacation, it really can’t be beat. The land itself is beautiful, including beaches, mountains, and the famous canyon, and there’s plenty to keep you busy. Favorite activities include bungee jumping and ATV tours for daredevils, plus an animal sanctuary and a camel ride for the cautious members of the group.

When the pro surfers come down to Cabo, they surf Zippers. Situated minutes from downtown San José del Cabo, this legendary break is great if you’re an experienced surfer and even better if you’re more interested in watching the action with a cold one in hand, from the safety of the aptly named beachside taco-and-burger spot, Zipper’s Bar and Grill. Another solid break, La Roca, is within paddle distance. Rent gear or set up a lesson at Costa Azul surf shop. Enter from the parking lot off Highway 1.

Cafelix is the spot for an iced coffee. They use their own Mexican beans, which are beautifully packaged and available to buy, and are somehow both smooth and complex. The space is small (and easy to miss, despite being on Todos Santos’s main drag, Calle Benito Juarez), but thanks to reliable Wi-Fi, posting up for a morning with your laptop and working through a few cups of their velvety brew is entirely acceptable.

A mile or so down a serpentine dirt road, past a mix of local and expat homes, and out-of-nowhere panoramic views of the Pacific, is Casa Mila. A wall of smooth concrete surrounds a checkerboard tiled courtyard, replete with a fireplace and cozy seating draped in Mexican blankets. A spiral staircase leads to the rooftop palapa—the kind of place that will have you dreaming of a glass of wine by sunset. The kitchen is modern and functional, with every coffee maker imaginable alongside beautiful stemware and terracotta pots for dining in when the mood strikes. Beds are sumptuously comfortable, and the outdoor shower transformed daily grooming into a treat. But few details beat falling asleep to the sound of the waves crashing on the beach outside. Leaving Casa Mila is hard. The whole place—Joshua Tree meets minimalist casita—is so special you’ll want to take it in over and over, and it still won’t be enough.

About five miles outside town, down a rocky track, the Green Room is one of those whispered spots the folks in town don't want the tourists to find. It’s perched on the edge of an empty beach. One of our favorite things to do is sit with our legs propped up on a stool with an icy Pacifico in hand. At night, the place fills up with a lively crowd so get there early, snag a table, and get your tuna tostito order in before the sun starts to dip.

Sylvie Sabatier is a Los Angeles–based Frenchwoman who, after designing her own eclectic Todos Santos retreat, had a roster of expats wanting a Sabatier flourish in their homes. More of a hacienda than a house, the property—hidden down a bumpy track—sits in an idyllic mango grove. Hacienda los Olivos is divided into a large straw-topped lounge room and kitchen, a master suite, and three smaller colorfully tiled, sumptuously comfortable casitas. Simmering a pot of beans for dinner, peeling a mango you picked yourself, lounging on the Mexican textile sofas—it’s all as transporting as it sounds. There are no bad angles at Sabatier’s hacienda. And while you could spend an entire vacation on one of the daybeds, we suggest exploring this vast and gorgeous property. Wander the gardens and catch all the details: the green and blue pool tiles that match the surrounding jungle, the outdoor showers, the Moroccan mirrors, the sculptural light fixtures. You’ll want to bring home your own Sabatier flourish before you leave.

Todos Santos has long had a quiet appeal for both artists and surfers who have appreciated the town’s understated, laid-back vibe. So it’s no surprise that finger-on-the-pulse hotelier Liz Lambert (of Austin’s Hotel San José and Hotel St. Cecilia) would head south of the border before everyone else caught on. About fifty miles north of Cabo San Lucas, this thirty-two-room beachfront property is a thoughtful reflection of its surroundings: Stamped concrete tiles, locally made furnishings, and colorful Guatemalan fabrics anchor much of the inside-meets-out design. (A tip: The ocean king has a beautifully tiled, generously sized soaking tub that looks out onto the ocean.) The infinity swimming pool has an unobstructed view of Playa Punta Lobos, and there are plenty of indoor-outdoor spaces and hammocks meant for whiling away the afternoon, plus fire pits for gathering when the sun goes down. Benno, the restaurant on the property, expertly melds Mediterranean and Mexican flavors, while relying heavily on the freshly caught fish of the day that comes in by the truckload. Also standouts: The cocktail list, which centers around small-batch mezcal and tequila, and the wine list, with some surprisingly good Mexican wines.

It’s a boutique hotel, but La Bohemia feels more like you’re staying in someone’s home. (And technically you are: The lovely owners live here.) This eclectic, leafy hideaway attracts people from all over the world who come to Todos Santos to walk the nearby art markets, explore the beaches, and just be here. The vibe at La Bohemia fits with the town and the name—it’s incredibly relaxed and communal. A small yard with colorful swing chaises is situated next to a bar and pool. The rooms are small and simple but thoughtfully decorated with local art. And the staff here could easily become your second family. They are so helpful, so friendly, and so very good at that fresh homemade breakfast every morning.

La Copa Bar has stellar fish tacos, citrusy guacamole, and for the more adventurous, crispy fried grasshoppers (actually, they're not half bad). Located in the pretty garden basement terrace of the Todos Santos Inn—ambiance is not a problem here—the restaurant charms. Lights flicker overhead while you tuck into dinner, and the Todos Santos air is naturally perfumed with surrounding flowers. Better yet, the bar upstairs mixes a mean margarita, and the elegance of the open-plan 1870s building will have you checking room availability for your next stay.

A resident recommended this all-day spot to us for breakfast. A few moments down the Topete road outside town, La Esquina spreads its shady seating (and reliable Wi-Fi) across a plant-packed courtyard. The fresh OJ surpassed any we have ever had, and the breakfast burritos, spicy chilaquiles, and omelets were the perfect start to our day. They also have sandwiches on whole-grain toast, oatmeal, and smoothies packed with organic fruit and veggies grown on the property. Spend a slow morning working through the breakfast menu and people-watching from a cool corner before stopping by the farm stand next door.

Do not leave Todos Santos without driving fifteen minutes south through El Pescadero to Cerritos Beach. The water is bathtub clear, scrupulously clean, and most importantly, swimmable (not all that common here). Just take note of the current. The view is: desert meets Pacific. And that’s basically it. There are a few beach bars on the dusty road in (Barracuda Cantina gets our vote), a smattering of surfers who also offer lessons, maybe someone selling stunning woven blankets you won’t find in any store, and that’s it. Enjoy.

Taller 17 is the last thing you’d expect in an artsy Mexican town but the first thing you’ll want. This delightful spot, which is reminiscent of a West Village cafe, serves strong cold brew and pour-overs. The pastries—buttery scones, flaky fruit pies, chewy-crispy cookies—are as fresh as can be, and the housemade kombucha is the most refreshing (and healthy) way to offset last night’s mezcal.

Built for a sugar baron in the late 1800s, the Todos Santos Boutique Hotel is styled like a hacienda and has atmosphere in spades. Flagstone floors, mahogany furniture, delicate Mexican tiling, and frescoed walls surround an internal two-story courtyard. This is where the action happens. The lower level has a small pool and fairytale restaurant La Copa Bar, with its twinkling lights and wrought iron seating. The upper level—punctuated with palm trees and a very welcome breeze—holds eight guest rooms. Each one has a sturdy sleigh bed, antique wardrobes, and dressing tables plus pretty and functional Mexican tiled bathrooms. The mixologist at the bar is (in our humble opinion) the best in town. While you wait for your spicy mezcal concoction, take in the display of glass bottles of homemade distillations, like pear, orange, and nutmeg liqueur, plus the incredible array of dried chiles for garnish stacked on the bar.