The Modern Honolulu

Whether you come for a meal at the farm-to-table restaurant, or to check-in and unplug in one of the twelve tree houses on the property, this place is a bucket-list must. Situated on twenty-five acres of farmland up a winding dirt road adjacent to Flora Farms, design-forward hotel offers some of the most incredible amenities (note: tree houses, fifteen feet off the ground, each with their own alfresco shower, plus terrace with palm grove views) and experiences like hiking, yoga, and access to roam the totally gorgeous on-site farm. The staff and owners are incredibly hospitable, so much so that you'll jump right into their awaiting Mezcal tasting upon arrival.

Esperanza is a classic resort to end all classic resorts. It’s a place to be pampered, it’s a place to comment on the service (in a good way), and it’s a place you will be met by a personal concierge with a margarita (for you) in hand. The pool scene incorporates mini massages, chilled bottles of water, and a generous offering of frozen fruit sticks when the midday heat hits. The cliff-top location on Punta Ballena (“Whale Point”)—between two private beaches overlooking the Sea of Cortez—is dramatic and stunning, especially in the winter when the humpback and gray whales migrate past. The casitas and suites are as luxe as you’d expect from an Auberge property: muted colors, natural handwoven rugs, Mexican artwork, and private whirlpool tubs. When ordering dinner at Cocina del Mar, take note: The elote corn and grilled oysters are two of the most exquisite dishes we’ve eaten in a while, and the sunset surf-and-turf experience at the beach palapa—ideal for two to four people—isn’t far behind.

Hacienda Beach Club is for the active holiday: Outdoor yoga, spinning, and complimentary water sports, including stand-up paddleboarding are just a few of the activities offered. And then you can unwind the kinks at the spa after. Note: These are fully-equipped villas for rent, making it a practical choice for a longer stay with the family—they have kitchens, as well as washer/dryers. It’s centrally located next to the marina and people who stay here love that they can walk to the beachfront shops and restaurants.

If the words “Cabo San Lucas” conjure visions of college kids doing tequila shots, let the words “One&Only Palmilla” replace those visions with palm trees, hummingbirds, and flowers the size of dinner plates. The property’s history goes back to 1956, when it served as a 15-room luxury escape for the president of Mexico. Since then, it’s been transformed into a 174-room resort with lush gardens, a pristine waterfront, top-notch service, and amenities that have their own amenities (everything from a welcome drink to turn-down service menus and personal butlers). And if you rent out one of the two private villas on the grounds, you get a whole team of personal butlers. And if that isn’t quite enough to send you running to the airport: The One&Only has one of the only swimmable beaches in Los Cabos, a spa featuring a shaman-led sweat lodge called a temazcal, and—if you’re planning a special occasion of the very special type—a historic chapel with panoramic views of the Sea of Cortez.

Originally built as a private retreat for British billionaire Sir James Goldsmith, this Moorish-style, sustainability-minded manor is spread out over 25,000 acres of lush Costa Alegre beach and jungle, which you’ll share with the resident zebras, antelope, tropical birds, and other wildlife (guests are also encouraged to take part in Cuixmala’s Turtle Protection Program). Technically, there are only thirteen rooms on property, but four of them are group-friendly palatial villas that come with pools, multiple bedrooms, and private chefs. For a more economical and decidedly more romantic option, the nine secluded garden casitas, with their private terraces and access to the stunning pool, are a great choice. The regional fare served at any of the multiple on-site restaurants either comes from Cuixmala’s own organic farm or sourced from neighboring farms.

The biggest draw to this luxury boutique hotel is the long, private stretch of white sand beach on the nicest part of Playa La Ropa. Lounge under the oceanside palapas with coconut palms from the tropical gardens swaying overhead and a cold piña colada in-hand. Though it’s on the beach, not all rooms have an ocean view (we've heard the garden rooms can be a bit disappointing).

The beauty of this 120-room St. Regis resort is in its idyllic locale. Sprawled out over 1,500 acres along the Riviera Nayarit, the hotel is steps from the water and within driving distance from Puerto Vallarta’s colonial streets and the Marietas Islands. Outdoor showers, sun beds, and spacious terraces are standard with every guest room, while the residential-style Suite Sueños boasts a private pool and a state-of-the-art kitchen—ideal for hosting intimate gatherings. Though kids are welcome throughout the property (daycare services can be arranged, too), those looking for a more serene experience should retreat to the adults-only pool. And though it’s unlikely you’ll want for much, St. Regis Butler Service is readily available.

Perched high above the sea, all of the accommodations here are villas—whether one- or three-bedroom—and they all come with their own pools, offering epic views of the ocean. The restaurant and spa on site are both great, as is the access to Bali's other cultural treasures, like biking through the rice paddies and climbing volcanoes. Alila Villas Uluwatu is also close to some of Indonesia's best surfing, adding to the fact that there's a bevy of things to keep you entertained during your entire stay.

At the end of 2016, Nikki Beach opened a resort, spa, and a series of fifteen private villas on the Pearl Jumeirah property next to their pool club. In contrast to the overstated luxury that you'll find elsewhere in Dubai, Nikki Beach takes a minimalistic approach that is aesthetically very pleasing. Bright and modern, the expansive spaces are the artwork of Italian designer Gregory Gatserelia of Beirut-based Gatserelia Design. Everything is bright and modern, polished (but not coldly so). The multiple-floor beachside villas, which have their own pools, are hard to beat (shocker), but the resort rooms are lovely overall, and everything is lent an intimate, oasis feel.

Designed by renowned Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, the Opposite House is part work of art (the pixilated green-glass exterior looks more like an installation from the outside), part boutique hotel. Known for its minimalist style, the rooms are rather spacious–a rarity for most of the city's hotels, and feature minimal decor mixed with traditional Chinese elements including an authentic oak soaking tub in each bathroom. The staff is incredibly efficient and will arrange for taxis to avoid hailing one on the street (a subtle luxury here). Pro tip: While this can be a great place to escape the city's frenetic pace, the first few floors can get noisy given the proximity to the bars and nightclubs–so it's best to ask for a quiet room on a higher floor.

The result of a masterful renovation and takeover by the luxury adventure collective, Eleven Experience, Bahama House is tucked into a restored 1800's pale-pink painted stone building in the heart of Dunmore Town. Guests are swept from the main airport in Eleuthera over to Harbour Island (about five minutes by water taxi). The eleven-room property, which includes two cottages, typically requires a full buy-out to stay here, making it a solid option for families traveling together or those craving a bit more privacy. Each room is unique, reminiscent of 1930's Palm Beach design (think vintage lamps, found antiques, bold Ikats and seagrass rugs, four-poster rattan beds, and a cacophony of block-printed textiles). The generously-sized bathrooms are a beauty lover’s dream, flooded with light, and feature hand-stamped Costa Rican tile floors. Many of the rooms offer views of the harbor and the freshwater swimming pool, and there are so many wraparound verandas and delightful little nooks and crannies for lounging you’d be hard pressed to take advantage of every single one during your visit. At night, don’t miss a nightcap in the jewelbox-sized Rum Bar, where you can sample spirits from all over the Caribbean. An on-site staff will do everything from cook your meals to arrange excursions to the Pink Sand Beach, snorkeling, deep-sea fishing, and horseback riding. Bonus: a stay at the property includes round-the-clock access to the Scorpion, a 38-foot Rib boat for island tours.

Harbour Island is one of those quick getaways for East Coasters that’s ideal for many reasons, the primary one being that there’s nowhere to go (unless it’s into the water). The life of the island revolves around the ocean: playing in it, eating by it, drinking by it, fishing in it–add the fact that so many from NYC seem to vacation here, and you’ve got a pretty sizable social scene, too. There are a few fancy resorts that dot the shoreline, but we’re into Ocean View Club, a teeny tiny spot where all the rooms are done up individually, to pretty great effect. It also has a small and mighty restaurant, where you’ll find significantly better fare than at many of the other spots on the island.

If you're looking to escape your social scene on the Upper East Side, don’t come to this chicest-beach-house-you-have-ever-seen, designed by Kelly Wearstler, where the look is more heels than flip flops. The restaurants and bars are a step above your typical Caribbean resort experience—fresh made pasta at the signature restaurant Cobà, frozen cocktails and hummus wraps at the Half Shell, and cocktails and sushi for a very buzzy happy hour at the Sunset Lounge. The two-story spa and cute boutique that features local jewelry designers makes it a fun place to come with girlfriends.

You can be as private or social as you like at this resort, which feels like a village of waterfront villas. Most people spend the day lounging by the infinity pool overlooking the sea, but you can relax by the private pool in your villa for a more secluded experience. The rooms are newly refurbished, simple, and modern, keeping the gorgeous setting the focus, with features like outdoor soaking tubs and sun decks. The town of Port Antonio, where the resort is located, was a hotspot in the 60’s and part of the experience is checking out the restaurants, bars, and live music in town. Fun feature: If you get tired of the beach, there’s a screening room that you can reserve.

The resort is known for having the same feel now as it did when it opened (when Sir Winston Churchill used to come here to paint). Colonial-style cottages offset the tropical beachside setting that has a bit of a retro Jamaican feel—and there's croquet on the lawn. Blessedly, there are no TVs to be found. The rooms are as on the beach as it gets (open the door and step in sand) and they are happy to bring you breakfast on your veranda if you don’t feel like making it over to the palm-covered dining room.

If you're looking to feel totally secluded and off-the-grid, Guana is the place. One of the lesser known of the British Virgin Islands, it’s also one the few remaining privately-owned islands in the area and is minimally developed. There’s not much here besides seven (nearly deserted) white sand beaches, 850 acres of untouched tropical forest, and this small resort with just fifteen cottages and three villas. Depending on when you go, you can be one of the only vacationers here with just a few scientists or grad students around studying the ecosystem. The staff at the resort will tell you how best to explore the islands and how to navigate the steep trails, even giving you cell phones so you can call if you’d rather be picked up on your way back. Each room is named after a different Caribbean island and is simply decorated in lots of white. There are no TVs, phones, or much else to distract you from completely unplugging. P.S. People rave about Xavier, the young Spanish chef at the on-site restaurant.

People rave about the service at this twenty-eight-room resort on Antigua, which feels like you are being personally hosted. With just twenty-eight rooms and no kids under ten allowed, it’s an intimate and peaceful getaway, as everything you might need is on the property. There's a large heated pool, tennis courts, a beachside restaurant, a private white sand beach, hammocks, snorkeling, a rum bar, plus an on-site a library. The look is England meets the Caribbean, with grand colonial style architecture—standout features are the strong mahogany four-post beds with contrasting airy white linens. Apparently, the old–fashioned rum punch at The Reef Bar is not to be missed.

Elbow Beach feels like the British Bermuda of yesteryear. The recent takeover by the Mandarin Oriental group means some of the bright pastels, floral wallpapers, and grandad feel are changing to a sleeker look, but we hear the careful charm of the staff and the slow pace still feel delightfully old-school. The resort is home to Veranda, Bermuda’s only rum bar, with over 100 varieties of rum and a clubby, jazzy vibe. FYI, The Bougainvillea cottages with sea views are said to be the ones worth coming for.

This is the perfect place to decamp with a group of friends: The spa is fantastic (treatments involve local and endemic ingredients), the food is even better, and the scene—the northern edge of New Zealand—couldn't really be more spectacular. A lot of golfers stay here, though there's plenty to do that doesn't involve a set of clubs: Horseback riding, surfing, fishing, and mountain biking are all easily accessible (though it's also the kind of resort where they make wishes into realities, so if there's something you're dying to do, just ask). And starting in November, you can book your own private four-bedroom enclave.

Fans of Harbour Island who are likely familiar with the storied Ocean View Club, will be delighted to know that its charming proprietors Ben Simmons and Charlie Phelan have quietly opened a new spot just across the way in Eleuthera. The Other Side has a decidedly different feel—it’s luxuriously nomadic, a bit more wild, and blessedly unplugged, making it perfect for those who truly want to disconnect. The design, which centers around communal and private sleeping tents, hardwood floors, and four-poster beds, and sundecks, is reminiscent of a scene from Out of Africa, and it's the kind of place where you can fall asleep to the sound of the water lapping in the distance. There’s plenty to do on the property, including morning yoga, paddle boarding, diving into swimming holes or even tend to the on-site vegetable garden if you wish, but you can also just relax at the swimming pool, which is pretty enticing on its own. The Other Side, like many other spots on Eleuthera and Harbour Island, is open from November through August.

Due to an abundance of white-washed, barn-like architecture, walking around this elegant Auberge hotel feels like taking a stroll through a posh horse stable, with white, clean lines, and tall ceilings (but certainly no horses). Like many resorts in the area, rooms are organized into studio cottages with private patios, and their pool scene is nice and roomy, with plenty of deck space and lounge chairs. You'll be in good hands, food-wise, at their restaurant Solbar restaurant, and a pretty serious spa. Calistoga is known for its mud baths (the geo-thermal heat and mineral-rich mud make for a healing restorative bath), and we've heard that Solage offers one of the best around.

There are a few distinguishing factors about Western Montana's Triple Creek Ranch, which has been hosting guests since the ‘80s. Most notably, it’s adults only. Second, there isn't a stitch of cell service, which makes it the perfect choice for those who generally struggle to disconnect. And finally, it’s nestled up against Trapper Peak, meaning that the cabins look out on forests, creeks, and elk herds, which gravitate to the lands since they don’t allow hunting. Beyond trail riding and fly-fishing (it’s an Orvis-endorsed lodge, which apparently means quite a lot to fly fishermen), you can learn how to pen cattle, and you can hike for days—after all, the lodgings abut the rest of the property, which is a 26,000 acre working ranch where guests can participate in all-day cattle drives. And come winter, there’s an on-site Iditarod dog-sledding team that guests can drive and help train. While many of the activities are included, for a bit extra, they’ll hook you up with a plane to Glacier or Yellowstone. Besides getting outside, they offer artist workshops and wine tastings, and when the owners, Craig and Barbara Barrett are on-site, cocktail parties at their residence, where you can take in their extensive Western art collection. But we would go just to hang with the Barretts: He was the CEO of Intel, while she is a trained astronaut, was the US ambassador to Finland, and was the first civilian woman to land an F/A-18 Hornet on an aircraft carrier. No big deal.

Hikes, yoga, a forest-bathing program, and views that look like you’re surrounded by iPhone billboards. That’s the gist of the sixty-two cottages and twenty-one guest rooms that make up L’Auberge de Sedona. This is the kind of place with outdoor showers (which you’ll love in the summer) and woodburning fireplaces (which you’ll love in the winter). As soon as you check in, head directly to L’Apothecary Spa, where therapists create oils, salts, scrubs, and other skin- and body-care products at an herbal blending station. They’re essentially Southwestern apothecaries using the full spectrum of herbs, flowers, and essences at their disposal to cure whatever ails you or, at the very least, to make you very, very relaxed. When you’re not at the spa, hang out in your creek-side cabin or get cozy by the fire. Just plan to spend the evening looking up—you’ve never seen so many stars in your life.

There’s definitely a Moorish paradise thing happening throughout this Scottsdale resort. Rooms are clustered in sections so it feels like walking through little villages with a Kabash pool where people lounge under the cabanas from day into night. The heart of the resort is the massive Moroccan-style Joya spa (the building is an architectural feat in its own right) their signature being the Hammam Experience—start with an herbal black soap scrub, followed by a steam, whirlpool, sauna, cold deluge and a final rest in the ‘warming room.’ They also offer acupuncture, cupping, and IV therapy, making this just a bit different than your traditional hotel spa. The resort is set at the foot of the Camelback Mountain, which makes for a great morning hike through the desert landscape.

While the adobe suites here were built hundreds of years ago, there’s nothing even remotely old-world (or neutral) about the décor at this Santa Fe haven: Each room is kitted out with a mix of bright, hand-tiled mosaics and the owners’ finds from Turkey, Tibet, and Afghanistan. The well-traveled owners, Ira and Sylvia Seret, named the hotel after the Tibetan philosophy that we are all lucky to have five senses (graces) with which to experience the world. While it’s located right in the middle of town, making it the perfect hub for exploring the area, the hotel’s Ayurvedic spa is a huge draw, too. There’s plenty to see nearby, from the San Miguel Mission across the street (the oldest in the states), to the art galleries down Canyon Road. There, you’ll see traditional Southwestern crafts mixed with art from the international gallery circuit.

One excellent hotel option—particularly for families, or anyone traveling with other couples—is the Lodge at Kukui'ula, a private club in Poʻipū that stretches across 1,010 acres, and was included in the 2025 Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards Best Hawaiian Resorts. Comprised of multi-bedroom homes—most with adjacent guest houses—it has plenty of high-end touches and amenities. While all the homes are equipped with lavish kitchens, the club restaurant, ʻUmeke Kitchen + Bar is excellent, and serviced by an on-site garden. There's a multi-level pool complete with hot tubs, a water slide, and a beach (the real beach is just across the road), a keiki play room, and the on-site Huakaʻi Outfitters staffed by locals who know all the island's secrets—what's better is that they'll take you there, or pack you a cooler and bag of equipment and send you on your way. For those otherwise inclined, there is a Tom-Weiskopf-designed golf course, tennis courts, and the award-winning Hiʻilani Spa and Fitness Center, home to a gym, yoga studio, and more.

This 20-room hotel is luxurious, airy, and light-filled. The rooms are thoughtfully laid out and beautifully appointed, each with its own ocean-facing balcony and hammocks, plus Grown Alchemist toiletries in the bathroom and Parachute waffle robes. (For a real treat, book the Surfrider Suite, which at 500 square feet feels like a serious home away from home thanks to a generously sized balcony, separate sitting area, and kitchenette.) There’s a guests-only roof deck bar and restaurant, which has uninterrupted views of Surfrider Beach across the street and a killer fire pit.

Here, every detail is considered, from the strict green practices the resort follows, to the beautifully kept gardens, to the fresh baked cookies that come with the nightly turn-down service. If you don't want to leave the grounds, you can eat at the impressive John Ash & Co. or the Front Room Bar & Lounge.

New kid on the block the William Vale is an all-balcony building, meaning guests have a stellar view no matter their room’s orientation—we recommend a corner suite, the panoramic views, all-glass bathroom (lie in the tub and take in the Manhattan skyline), and beautifully appointed living room are so worth it, especially if you’re rooming with—or planning on entertaining—a few friends. In what was once a neighborhood of abandoned buildings, adjoining Wythe Street is now packed with incredible breakfast spots (try Meyers Bageri or Sunday in Brooklyn), bars, and great boutiques. The accommodations are Scandinavian in style with clean lines and unfussy furniture in a neutral palette, intended not to detract from the majesty of the city views. In keeping with the neighborhood’s creative spirit, the hotel regularly hosts artistic and wellness-oriented events—from chakra healing with a shaman to meditation and letter-pressing—at its stunning water-facing rooftop bar that’s packed to the rafters at night.

There's a special synergy between bustling urban energy and laid-back California cool found in downtown San Diego, and this hotel—a completely fresh boutique concept emerging from the Montage’s luxury umbrella—occupies a corner spot that's right in the middle of it all. Moderately sized with a totally non-corporate feel, the bedrooms are done in a spectrum of beachy patterned blues and textured whites: azure plaid sofas against light-blue drapes and crisp bedding, for example. This retreat-like aesthetic is brought home by luxe touches like silky Lunya bathrobes and particularly beautiful subway-tiled bathrooms. The Pendry is within walking distance to some of the city's best restaurants and bars. If you don't want to leave the grounds over the weekend, the picture-perfect rooftop pool offers some of the best views in the city, while the adjacent restaurants, Lionfish and Provisional, serve up excellent seafood and steak, and fresh California dishes, respectively.

When ‘Alohilani opened in Waikiki, it filled a much-needed void in Oahu’s packed hotel scene—a modern, super sophisticated property that feels fresh, light, and without a hint of stuffiness or formality (in other words, a place you’ll feel comfortable wearing shorts and flip-flops everywhere). Its 839 guest rooms are outfitted in a clean, calming palette of white, beige, and natural wood, with zero clutter that might distract from the epic Hawaiian views outside (including, in many cases, the iconic slopes of Diamond Head and the endless Pacific Ocean that’s directly across the street). We love the location, too: It’s in the heart of Waikiki, within walking distance to some of the island’s best restaurants, shopping, and sites. But it also feels removed from it all, positioned at the neighborhood’s southern end, near a large city park, so the feeling is much quieter here than at hotels further up the shore. Even if you aren’t staying here, though, it’s worth a visit for a meal at Morimoto Asia Waikiki, helmed by “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto. Grab a seat on the open-air terrace overlooking Kalakaua Avenue (Waikiki’s main strip) for some stellar people-watching and sunset views, and excellent Asian-inspired dishes (our favorites include the lobster with rice noodles and Thai red curry sauce, and the simple yet delicious house fried rice). And don’t miss a mai tai at the lobby bar, which is dominated by a 280,000-gallon oceanarium, full of colorful native Hawaiian reef fish.

Halekulani may be one of the oldest hotels in Honolulu, and it’s one of the best. A bit more buttoned up than what you’d expect in the land of aloha—but it’s the five-star property’s proximity to all of the best big-name shopping, surfing, eating, and anything else you could possibly want to do in Waikiki that really steps up its game. Plus, the hotel itself is quite lavish—all two oceanfront towers of it—with its unbeatable Diamond Head views and the kind of precisely manicured lawns that attract a fair share of weddings. Days are spent pool-ing, spa-ing, or paddling out in the rolling waves that make up Halekulani’s backyard. And when you’re all activitied-out, kick off your flip-flops and head to the swanky Lewers Lounge—where the lychee martinis are as strong as the dress code is strict. And don’t skip the impressive Sunday brunch (we swoon for the poha berry popovers at Orchids).

Most of the hotels in Waikiki read a bit touristy and over-the-top for our tastes, so the understated Surfjack, with its laid-back, cool vibe is a more than welcome addition. Expect to see bamboo, bright colors, and staff decked out in Hawaiian-print shirts, though all those classic décor motifs are cooly balanced by mid-century furniture and modern pieces of art. The hotel is also home to an excellent restaurant (helmed by local chef hero Ed Kenney) and Olive & Oliver, a smaller outpost of the Oliver boutique that’s outfitted with a sweet little coffee bar serving Café Vita espresso and cold brew.

A Kailua-local favorite, this expat-run operation is a dream come true for vegans who want to try the local fare. ‘Ai Love Nalo’s blink-and-you’ll-miss-it shop taps into the farm community in Waimānalo, and all the food is local and organic. Which explains why the tofu poke bowl is the next best thing to a fresh catch.

Pull up to the counter at ARVO and you’re bound to make a friend. The staff here not only pours the best cold brew in town but has recommendations for what local place to hit next. As you’re waiting for your drink or avocado toast, scroll through their website for interesting interviews with local creatives.

For a healthier option than Matsumoto, head across the street to the tiny little grass shack Haleʻiwa Bowls. The North shore is home to a lot of farmers, and the locals who run the stand source their apple bananas and other fruits and vegetables locally. Big bonus: They also serve kombucha on tap.

Four words: James Beard Award winner. Helena’s Hawaiian has been around since the ’40s and is still part of the fabric of Oahu culture almost eighty years later. Come here, order the Combo Menu D (which includes Kahlúa pig, lomi salmon, pipikaula short ribs, and luau squid) and let loose: You’re on vacation.

This restaurant is the amalgamation of all the cultures that have melded together on Oahu. And Hawaiian-Japanese-Korean-American-Portuguese fusion never tasted so good. You can get everything from a cornflake French toast to breakfast congee—and all of it is excellent. There is most likely a line snaking around the block, so get here early. And don’t be deterred by the wait. It’s worthwhile.

Surfing burns an awful lot of energy, so it’s not surprising that the North Shore is equipped with a few hearty breakfast spots. After a long morning in the ocean, locals go to Kono’s for breakfast burritos, pulled pork, and seriously good milkshakes. Not surprisingly, the pulled pork breakfast burrito, which combines all of their best dishes, is the must-order menu item (though brave souls should also try their Spam breakfast burrito—it's the equivalent of trying Vegemite in Australia).

Hawaii native Leonard Rego is the son of Portuguese immigrants that first came to Oahu to work in the sugar cane fields. His namesake bakery is famous for malasadas, a Portuguese donut that’s a bit like a sugar donut without the hole. Look out for their food truck, which travels around the city.

Chinatown’s Kekaulike market can be a bit busy, but don’t let that deter you from seeking out Maguro Brothers, a sparkling clean stall in the back row that serves some of the city’s freshest fish. Brothers Junichiro and Ryojiro Tsuchiya were fishmongers in Japan, and here on Oahu, they’re at the market every morning picking out the best catches. Their stall serves poké, sashimi, and surprisingly great ramen, plus lots of fresh fish for home-cooked dishes. The must-orders are the spicy ahi tuna bowl and the maguro donburi, auction fish laid over nori, ginger, and rice.

Matsumoto is a North Shore staple. They’ve been in business for going on 70 years now, and the place is still family-run, still making their home-made flavoring syrup. The kids won’t forgive you if you skip it.

MW is run by a husband-wife team with a serious pedigree: between the two of them, they’ve built up a roster of experience at Alan Wong’s, Per Se, and the French Laundry (though husband Wade credits Zippy’s, where he got his first job as a fry cook, for much of his inspiration). The dishes here are inventive, contemporary interpretations of traditional Hawaiian specialties, like Ahi nachos, Kona lobster carbonara, and a mochi-crusted opakapaka-short-tail pink snapper. Don’t miss the cocktails, either.

Ask anyone on the island where the best brunch in all of Oahu is and you’ll likely get this answer: Orchids. That’s because this beachfront eatery at Waikiki’s iconic Halekulani hotel is that good—and popular with the locals, considering they’re the ones snagging up all the reservations during the holidays. There is something so romantic and magical about sipping a mimosa and gazing at the ocean while a harpist plays in the background. Carving stations, the freshest fruits, incredible baked goods, sashimi, sushi, omelet bar, sundae bar, all the bars!—this place is the full package.

This cool Vietnamese spot is in the heart of Chinatown, which is a big upgrade from where Chef Andrew Le first got started: in his parents' garage. Today, the Pig & the Lady is on the forefront of Hawaii’s culinary scene, showcasing Pacific influences from Asia and the United States. The fusion results in dishes like the pho French dip with Manila clams, a spicy, Asian-inflected take on cacio e pepe, and an appetizer that blends burrata cheese with a kimchi puttanesca. The Pig & the Lady is still a family affair; Le’s brother Alex is the General Manager, and his mother (who inspired the entire operation) works with him in the kitchen; meanwhile, his other siblings can be seen in and out of the restaurant at all hours. Their amazing takeout can be a god-send after long days on the beach, but we like to visit in person, taking the time to explore Chinatown’s shops and lei stores along the way.

The first thing you should know about the Kapahulu drive-in is that it’s an Oahu institution. And the second is that it’s a complete hole-in-the-wall. One that’s been going strong since the early ’60s. But what this mom-and-pop shop lacks in good looks and ritzy ambiance, it makes up for with its local-style lunch plates, piled high with island favorites, like shoya chicken with generous scoops of rice and mounds of mac salad. In fact, everything about it—from the walk-up window to the shared picnic tables, even the iconic rainbow-lit sign—reminds you this is a place with character. Local tip: Order the gravy-smothered loco moco (don’t knock it till you try it) after a day in the waves.

A favorite with the early morning surf crew that frequent the North Shore, Sunrise Shack has the basics—injected with the latest in wellness—down. Bulletproof coffee is upgraded with grass-fed butter and fragrant Madagascan vanilla. Refreshing acai bowls (some with blue algae whipped in) are topped with a shocking-pink dragon fruit syrup, toasted coconut flakes for crunch, and sweet bee pollen. The Shack’s three founding brothers grew up on these beaches and know exactly what their fellow Hawaiians want first thing: great coffee, fresh fruit, and cheery local banter.

Hawaii is one of few places outside Japan where you can find good quality sushi that’s still reasonably priced. Yanagi isn’t exactly white tablecloth (the walls are crammed with hundreds of photos of regulars and celebrities that have come in over the years), but the sushi is excellent. All the credit goes to chef Haruo Nakamaya, who trained in Tokyo and founded Yanagi back in the ‘70s.

Cindy Yokoyama cut her design teeth as a fine art major. But Hawaii’s emerald, chunky-with-volcanoes landscape inspired jewelry, not oil on canvas. And Yokoyama yielded to her new passion. Ginger13 is packed to the brim with earthy, abstract jewelry punctured with semiprecious aquamarines, carnelians, and Pacific-blue sapphires. A bevy of local ceramics, fragrant sage, woven baskets, perfumed oils, and other trinkets make ideal keepsakes, but a set of wood-sculpted earrings studded with something special always finds its way into our carry-on.

Number 808 is a vintage hub for any ’90s loving, island-dwelling swell surfer who also happens to have great taste. This place has all the requisite clothes and accessories as well as surfboards, toys, and signage. And if vintage isn’t up your alley, there are plenty of new items to check out, like ceramics from Shinotakeda and all-natural soaps and hempseed oils from Marley Natural.

Settled in on a quiet Kailua street, this indie surf shop is home to a slew of small, design-focused men's brands like Saturdays, Apolis, Deus ex Machina, and Industry of all Nations. It’s primarily a clothing shop, though they always have a great selection of surf-inspired jewelry, art, and other knick-knacks to choose from. While most of the buy is menswear, there’s a healthy selection of bags, towels, and jewelry for women, and there are plenty of items, like Mollusk sweatshirts or Alex Mill tees, that are perfectly unisex. Their new outpost at the Surfjack Hotel has equally deep buys in men's and women's clothing.

Powdery white sand, crystal-clear water, and distant green peaks describes...most of Oahu. But Bellows Beach, nestled into the southeast edge of the island, has an added advantage: Most people don’t know it’s there—and those who do are mostly locals. The ironwood trees that frame the sand provide welcome shade, and the wind that whips this slice of coast churns up waves made for boogie-boarding. Disclaimer: Bellows is open only on weekends, so plan accordingly.

The Halekulani Hotel is in the thick of Waikiki’s resort row, but the aromatherapy massage is transportive. Start with an invigorating slap on the soles of your feet with coconut sticks (grown on the property) and then move on to what makes the Halekulani spa special: a fragrant, densely packed ball of turmeric, tamarind leaves, and lemongrass in cheesecloth that is heated and then pressed into knots and kinks. And as a parting gift, you get to take home the herbaceous orb to use in the bath or reheat at home for a repeat.

It’s usually around day three or four that you’ll want to get out of the sun—or at least take a break from the beach. That’s where the Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden comes in. It sits right up against the Koolau Mountain Range, which is as beautiful as it sounds—lush and natural and packed with every shade of green imaginable and unimaginable. There’s also a loop for an easyish walk around the reservoir that was built by the US Army as flood control.

The opulent Iolani Palanace was the royal residence of the Hawaiian monarchy until Queen Liliuokalani was forced to abdicate her throne in 1893. The palace has since been restored, including furniture and decorations that were there during the monarchic rule, and a significant collection of artifacts representing different periods in Hawaiian history. It’s a fascinating tour, and a welcome break when you’ve spent too many hours in the sun.

The sheer variety of tropical fruits and vegetables grown in Hawaii makes their farmers markets incredibly special. The Kailua Farmer’s market is always filled with locals buying their produce for the week, picking through mangoes, kiwis, and several varieties of banana (we’ve heard that the apple bananas and ice cream bananas are particularly great). Make sure to stop by the Nalo Farms table to pick up some “Nalo greens,” a mix of salad and microgreens that are famous in the area—then look out for them as menu items in Honolulu.

A coral reef off the shore of Lanikai Beach protects the water from big tides and waves, so this is a local favorite for a calm, relaxing swimming. The safe, warm water also makes it good for snorkeling—there are plenty of reef fish to be seen, and there are turtles once in a while, as well. And though it does get a bit crowded on the weekends, the stunning view of the Mokulua Islands and the powdery, white sand make for excellent sunbathing (though you’ll want to come early in the day, before the afternoon sun slips behind the mountains to the West, and also before all of the parking spots are taken). Note: It’s a great place to watch the sunrise.

This hiking trail in Kailua is great for hot days because it’s almost entirely covered by trees and foliage. The trail itself follows a creek up the hillside through a lush forest until you arrive at a swimming hole that features a lovely waterfall and a few great jumping-off points for brave cliff jumpers. A few words to the wise: The trail can get muddy when the creek is high, so wear appropriate shoes. It’s also a good idea to pack some bug spray.