Yanagi Sushi

When ‘Alohilani opened in Waikiki, it filled a much-needed void in Oahu’s packed hotel scene—a modern, super sophisticated property that feels fresh, light, and without a hint of stuffiness or formality (in other words, a place you’ll feel comfortable wearing shorts and flip-flops everywhere). Its 839 guest rooms are outfitted in a clean, calming palette of white, beige, and natural wood, with zero clutter that might distract from the epic Hawaiian views outside (including, in many cases, the iconic slopes of Diamond Head and the endless Pacific Ocean that’s directly across the street). We love the location, too: It’s in the heart of Waikiki, within walking distance to some of the island’s best restaurants, shopping, and sites. But it also feels removed from it all, positioned at the neighborhood’s southern end, near a large city park, so the feeling is much quieter here than at hotels further up the shore. Even if you aren’t staying here, though, it’s worth a visit for a meal at Morimoto Asia Waikiki, helmed by “Iron Chef” Masaharu Morimoto. Grab a seat on the open-air terrace overlooking Kalakaua Avenue (Waikiki’s main strip) for some stellar people-watching and sunset views, and excellent Asian-inspired dishes (our favorites include the lobster with rice noodles and Thai red curry sauce, and the simple yet delicious house fried rice). And don’t miss a mai tai at the lobby bar, which is dominated by a 280,000-gallon oceanarium, full of colorful native Hawaiian reef fish.

Halekulani may be one of the oldest hotels in Honolulu, and it’s one of the best. A bit more buttoned up than what you’d expect in the land of aloha—but it’s the five-star property’s proximity to all of the best big-name shopping, surfing, eating, and anything else you could possibly want to do in Waikiki that really steps up its game. Plus, the hotel itself is quite lavish—all two oceanfront towers of it—with its unbeatable Diamond Head views and the kind of precisely manicured lawns that attract a fair share of weddings. Days are spent pool-ing, spa-ing, or paddling out in the rolling waves that make up Halekulani’s backyard. And when you’re all activitied-out, kick off your flip-flops and head to the swanky Lewers Lounge—where the lychee martinis are as strong as the dress code is strict. And don’t skip the impressive Sunday brunch (we swoon for the poha berry popovers at Orchids).

So, the first thing to know is that this is not on the beach but rather along the marina. We’d suggest taking advantage of the location by renting an open-top jeep and exploring the wilds of Hawaii on the North Shore. The hotel itself is more boutique-y than resort, and feels airy, clean and crisp, with lots of white. The vibe is young, cool, modern—less expensive Hawaii—with a spring break vibe for the upwardly mobile. There are four bars, a nightclub (which gets pretty crazy at night), and an ‘adult’ pool where people can be found drinking coconut mojitos in the shallow end at pretty much all hours.

Most of the hotels in Waikiki read a bit touristy and over-the-top for our tastes, so the understated Surfjack, with its laid-back, cool vibe is a more than welcome addition. Expect to see bamboo, bright colors, and staff decked out in Hawaiian-print shirts, though all those classic décor motifs are cooly balanced by mid-century furniture and modern pieces of art. The hotel is also home to an excellent restaurant (helmed by local chef hero Ed Kenney) and Olive & Oliver, a smaller outpost of the Oliver boutique that’s outfitted with a sweet little coffee bar serving Café Vita espresso and cold brew.

A Kailua-local favorite, this expat-run operation is a dream come true for vegans who want to try the local fare. ‘Ai Love Nalo’s blink-and-you’ll-miss-it shop taps into the farm community in Waimānalo, and all the food is local and organic. Which explains why the tofu poke bowl is the next best thing to a fresh catch.

Pull up to the counter at ARVO and you’re bound to make a friend. The staff here not only pours the best cold brew in town but has recommendations for what local place to hit next. As you’re waiting for your drink or avocado toast, scroll through their website for interesting interviews with local creatives.

For a healthier option than Matsumoto, head across the street to the tiny little grass shack Haleʻiwa Bowls. The North shore is home to a lot of farmers, and the locals who run the stand source their apple bananas and other fruits and vegetables locally. Big bonus: They also serve kombucha on tap.

Four words: James Beard Award winner. Helena’s Hawaiian has been around since the ’40s and is still part of the fabric of Oahu culture almost eighty years later. Come here, order the Combo Menu D (which includes Kahlúa pig, lomi salmon, pipikaula short ribs, and luau squid) and let loose: You’re on vacation.

This restaurant is the amalgamation of all the cultures that have melded together on Oahu. And Hawaiian-Japanese-Korean-American-Portuguese fusion never tasted so good. You can get everything from a cornflake French toast to breakfast congee—and all of it is excellent. There is most likely a line snaking around the block, so get here early. And don’t be deterred by the wait. It’s worthwhile.

Surfing burns an awful lot of energy, so it’s not surprising that the North Shore is equipped with a few hearty breakfast spots. After a long morning in the ocean, locals go to Kono’s for breakfast burritos, pulled pork, and seriously good milkshakes. Not surprisingly, the pulled pork breakfast burrito, which combines all of their best dishes, is the must-order menu item (though brave souls should also try their Spam breakfast burrito—it's the equivalent of trying Vegemite in Australia).

Hawaii native Leonard Rego is the son of Portuguese immigrants that first came to Oahu to work in the sugar cane fields. His namesake bakery is famous for malasadas, a Portuguese donut that’s a bit like a sugar donut without the hole. Look out for their food truck, which travels around the city.

Chinatown’s Kekaulike market can be a bit busy, but don’t let that deter you from seeking out Maguro Brothers, a sparkling clean stall in the back row that serves some of the city’s freshest fish. Brothers Junichiro and Ryojiro Tsuchiya were fishmongers in Japan, and here on Oahu, they’re at the market every morning picking out the best catches. Their stall serves poké, sashimi, and surprisingly great ramen, plus lots of fresh fish for home-cooked dishes. The must-orders are the spicy ahi tuna bowl and the maguro donburi, auction fish laid over nori, ginger, and rice.

Matsumoto is a North Shore staple. They’ve been in business for going on 70 years now, and the place is still family-run, still making their home-made flavoring syrup. The kids won’t forgive you if you skip it.

MW is run by a husband-wife team with a serious pedigree: between the two of them, they’ve built up a roster of experience at Alan Wong’s, Per Se, and the French Laundry (though husband Wade credits Zippy’s, where he got his first job as a fry cook, for much of his inspiration). The dishes here are inventive, contemporary interpretations of traditional Hawaiian specialties, like Ahi nachos, Kona lobster carbonara, and a mochi-crusted opakapaka-short-tail pink snapper. Don’t miss the cocktails, either.

Ask anyone on the island where the best brunch in all of Oahu is and you’ll likely get this answer: Orchids. That’s because this beachfront eatery at Waikiki’s iconic Halekulani hotel is that good—and popular with the locals, considering they’re the ones snagging up all the reservations during the holidays. There is something so romantic and magical about sipping a mimosa and gazing at the ocean while a harpist plays in the background. Carving stations, the freshest fruits, incredible baked goods, sashimi, sushi, omelet bar, sundae bar, all the bars!—this place is the full package.

This cool Vietnamese spot is in the heart of Chinatown, which is a big upgrade from where Chef Andrew Le first got started: in his parents' garage. Today, the Pig & the Lady is on the forefront of Hawaii’s culinary scene, showcasing Pacific influences from Asia and the United States. The fusion results in dishes like the pho French dip with Manila clams, a spicy, Asian-inflected take on cacio e pepe, and an appetizer that blends burrata cheese with a kimchi puttanesca. The Pig & the Lady is still a family affair; Le’s brother Alex is the General Manager, and his mother (who inspired the entire operation) works with him in the kitchen; meanwhile, his other siblings can be seen in and out of the restaurant at all hours. Their amazing takeout can be a god-send after long days on the beach, but we like to visit in person, taking the time to explore Chinatown’s shops and lei stores along the way.

The first thing you should know about the Kapahulu drive-in is that it’s an Oahu institution. And the second is that it’s a complete hole-in-the-wall. One that’s been going strong since the early ’60s. But what this mom-and-pop shop lacks in good looks and ritzy ambiance, it makes up for with its local-style lunch plates, piled high with island favorites, like shoya chicken with generous scoops of rice and mounds of mac salad. In fact, everything about it—from the walk-up window to the shared picnic tables, even the iconic rainbow-lit sign—reminds you this is a place with character. Local tip: Order the gravy-smothered loco moco (don’t knock it till you try it) after a day in the waves.

A favorite with the early morning surf crew that frequent the North Shore, Sunrise Shack has the basics—injected with the latest in wellness—down. Bulletproof coffee is upgraded with grass-fed butter and fragrant Madagascan vanilla. Refreshing acai bowls (some with blue algae whipped in) are topped with a shocking-pink dragon fruit syrup, toasted coconut flakes for crunch, and sweet bee pollen. The Shack’s three founding brothers grew up on these beaches and know exactly what their fellow Hawaiians want first thing: great coffee, fresh fruit, and cheery local banter.

Cindy Yokoyama cut her design teeth as a fine art major. But Hawaii’s emerald, chunky-with-volcanoes landscape inspired jewelry, not oil on canvas. And Yokoyama yielded to her new passion. Ginger13 is packed to the brim with earthy, abstract jewelry punctured with semiprecious aquamarines, carnelians, and Pacific-blue sapphires. A bevy of local ceramics, fragrant sage, woven baskets, perfumed oils, and other trinkets make ideal keepsakes, but a set of wood-sculpted earrings studded with something special always finds its way into our carry-on.

Number 808 is a vintage hub for any ’90s loving, island-dwelling swell surfer who also happens to have great taste. This place has all the requisite clothes and accessories as well as surfboards, toys, and signage. And if vintage isn’t up your alley, there are plenty of new items to check out, like ceramics from Shinotakeda and all-natural soaps and hempseed oils from Marley Natural.

Settled in on a quiet Kailua street, this indie surf shop is home to a slew of small, design-focused men's brands like Saturdays, Apolis, Deus ex Machina, and Industry of all Nations. It’s primarily a clothing shop, though they always have a great selection of surf-inspired jewelry, art, and other knick-knacks to choose from. While most of the buy is menswear, there’s a healthy selection of bags, towels, and jewelry for women, and there are plenty of items, like Mollusk sweatshirts or Alex Mill tees, that are perfectly unisex. Their new outpost at the Surfjack Hotel has equally deep buys in men's and women's clothing.

Powdery white sand, crystal-clear water, and distant green peaks describes...most of Oahu. But Bellows Beach, nestled into the southeast edge of the island, has an added advantage: Most people don’t know it’s there—and those who do are mostly locals. The ironwood trees that frame the sand provide welcome shade, and the wind that whips this slice of coast churns up waves made for boogie-boarding. Disclaimer: Bellows is open only on weekends, so plan accordingly.

The Halekulani Hotel is in the thick of Waikiki’s resort row, but the aromatherapy massage is transportive. Start with an invigorating slap on the soles of your feet with coconut sticks (grown on the property) and then move on to what makes the Halekulani spa special: a fragrant, densely packed ball of turmeric, tamarind leaves, and lemongrass in cheesecloth that is heated and then pressed into knots and kinks. And as a parting gift, you get to take home the herbaceous orb to use in the bath or reheat at home for a repeat.

It’s usually around day three or four that you’ll want to get out of the sun—or at least take a break from the beach. That’s where the Ho’omaluhia Botanical Garden comes in. It sits right up against the Koolau Mountain Range, which is as beautiful as it sounds—lush and natural and packed with every shade of green imaginable and unimaginable. There’s also a loop for an easyish walk around the reservoir that was built by the US Army as flood control.

The opulent Iolani Palanace was the royal residence of the Hawaiian monarchy until Queen Liliuokalani was forced to abdicate her throne in 1893. The palace has since been restored, including furniture and decorations that were there during the monarchic rule, and a significant collection of artifacts representing different periods in Hawaiian history. It’s a fascinating tour, and a welcome break when you’ve spent too many hours in the sun.

The sheer variety of tropical fruits and vegetables grown in Hawaii makes their farmers markets incredibly special. The Kailua Farmer’s market is always filled with locals buying their produce for the week, picking through mangoes, kiwis, and several varieties of banana (we’ve heard that the apple bananas and ice cream bananas are particularly great). Make sure to stop by the Nalo Farms table to pick up some “Nalo greens,” a mix of salad and microgreens that are famous in the area—then look out for them as menu items in Honolulu.

A coral reef off the shore of Lanikai Beach protects the water from big tides and waves, so this is a local favorite for a calm, relaxing swimming. The safe, warm water also makes it good for snorkeling—there are plenty of reef fish to be seen, and there are turtles once in a while, as well. And though it does get a bit crowded on the weekends, the stunning view of the Mokulua Islands and the powdery, white sand make for excellent sunbathing (though you’ll want to come early in the day, before the afternoon sun slips behind the mountains to the West, and also before all of the parking spots are taken). Note: It’s a great place to watch the sunrise.

This hiking trail in Kailua is great for hot days because it’s almost entirely covered by trees and foliage. The trail itself follows a creek up the hillside through a lush forest until you arrive at a swimming hole that features a lovely waterfall and a few great jumping-off points for brave cliff jumpers. A few words to the wise: The trail can get muddy when the creek is high, so wear appropriate shoes. It’s also a good idea to pack some bug spray.