The North London Guide
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Many would describe London as a series of villages, each with its own architecture, mom and pop shops, and quirky characters, and nowhere is that more true than in North London. The villagers of Hampstead and Primrose Hill are lucky to live near two of the most gorgeous parks with beautiful views of the city below, while Islington's charm lies in its quiet, tree-lined streets, which house many of London's politicians—Brexit Boris included—and classic, old-school gastropubs. Meanwhile, King's Cross and punk-ish Camden are both undergoing a major revamp, leaving their village roots behind with glitzy restaurants, shops, and theaters moving in and luring the tourists along with them.
Restaurants

The Albion
Tucked away on an idyllic street in Islington, this pretty Georgian pub boasts a lot of outdoor space—a rarity in London. On summer evenings and weekends, the best spots in the house are in the front courtyard for beers and cocktails, and out back for classic pub fare in the wisteria covered courtyard. This being one of the most popular gastropubs in the area, dinner and Sunday roast reservations come in handy.

The Bull & Last
This is the kind of Hampstead Heath go-to where everyone, even the family dog, is welcome. The atmosphere is cozy and traditional with maroon leather seats, chalkboard menus, and lots of distressed wood. Don’t miss the bread basket, homemade ice cream, and ale (for grownups only).

Caravan
The scrumptious, simple, yet interesting food (squid pancakes, for example) and hip yet relaxed Exmouth Market vibe make this one of our favorite places for brunch. It's also a great place to go for a coffee (which is roasted on-site) to linger over and enjoy with a book. This spot became so popular that they opened up a much bigger, industrial-inflected space at Kings Cross that serves the same great mix of small plates.

Dishoom
This relatively new and growing chain of modern Indian restaurants reveals a new dimension to a city already well-versed in the cuisine. Expertly decorated to resemble an old Iranian Bombay cafe, the vibe is casual and, as tradition dictates, ideal for both large groups and singles reading the paper and having a chai. The long menu of rotis, naans, grilled meats, and stews is spice-inflected but not necessarily curry heavy. There are three more locations in Shoreditch, Carnaby, and Covent Garden.

The Draper's Arms
Hidden away on a quiet street in Islington, the Draper’s Arms attracts a faithful following who come for casual tipples and full meals. The British gastro-pub fare is wonderful as is the small selection of wines; and, this being England and all, the beer and ales selection is definitely on point. Old wooden tables, checkerboard floors, board games, and a wall full of classic orange-spined Penguin paperbacks drives the cozy vibe home.

Duke of Cambridge
From young families to twenty-somethings who've wandered a bit too far from Essex Road, everyone seems to enjoy this up market gastropub with great organic fare and drinks. It's a perfect location for a post-meal walk to Broadway Market via Regent's Canal.

The Engineer
In a city heaving with pubs, The Engineer—in pastel-pretty Primrose Hill—is top of the list. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, their traditional Sunday roast is a force to be reckoned with—perfect plates stacked high with roasted meat, buttery vegetables, towering Yorkshire puds, and port reduction jus. The space itself—named for famed English engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, builder of the Great Western Railway—is more stylish gastro-pub than dark watering-hole, with wood-paneled walls, mahogany tables, and cozy leather booths to sink into. Through the long London winter, the roaring fire, well-curated wine list, and comfy seating make lingering into the evening over drinks with friends all too easy. In the summer months, the outdoor patio is the spot to snag a table for an al-fresco afternoon of elevated British grub, booze, and pudding, walked off with a post-lunch amble through nearby, leafy Regent's Park.

German Gymnasium
The D&D group (of Terence Conran & company fame) has gone and created another classic a la Skylon, Bluebird, etc. This time it's in King's Cross which is going through a major regeneration. In what used to be the German Gymnasium—the first purpose-built gym in the UK from way back in the 1860's—they've set up an eponymous all-day restaurant that's perfectly placed to serve all the EuroStar travelers heading to Paris from St. Pancras across the street. Fittingly, it feels like a gateway to old Europe, where the Sekt and Champagne flow and Schnitzel and Sauerkraut is served in what feels like an elegant Viennese café (with a modern twist). The hulking space has been beautifully reinterpreted.

The Horseshoe
The white walls and vintage wooden tables with schoolhouse chairs create the perfect setting for those looking for a gastropub with a little something different.

The Lansdowne
This is pretty much the perfect pub. And in a city famous for its wateringholes, that’s some truly high praise. Long, wooden tables fill a huge, bright dining room, which is packed with locals (and their dogs) on evenings and weekends. The impeccable thin-crust pizza, made with quality ingredients like Parma ham and taleggio, is another huge draw.

Oliver's Fish & Chips
Only in London would you have your fish and chips delivered. This clean, friendly and upscale locale makes an excellent fish & chips combo that proves you don't have to look and feel like you just came out of a nightclub to indulge in the national dish.

Primeur
Hidden on a residential street in Canonbury, in an old garage with a beautiful old sign to prove it, Primeur feels eons away from London's bustle. On a warm day, the garage doors open and diners get to watch the evening light filter in while snacking on a fantastic Spanish cheese and sipping on one of the natural, mineral wines on their expertly chosen list. And then dive into the short but perfect menu, which changes daily, so much so that it arrives hastily handwritten. Share a few small plates of their ultra-seasonal fare and watch the world quietly go by outside the garage doors. For large groups, there's a private dining room downstairs in the wine cave.

SUNDAY cafe & restaurant
Islington is a sort of de facto testing ground for restaurant concepts and only the best stand the test of time—the legendary Ottolenghi and Trullo, for example. And teensy Sunday, hidden away on a residential street with a beige, unassuming awning and low key decor, may just be the next big hit. Walk by any weekend morning only to find a line around the block, waiting patiently for some of the best breakfast London has to offer. Same goes for weekdays, when virtually every local freelancer in the know rocks up for breakfast, coffee, and lunch. The lure: a perfect breakfast, great coffee, and healthy, hearty lunch. Our picks: Buttermilk pancakes and their as of yet undefeated zucchini fritter, halloumi, and avocado pile served on yogurt spiced with dukkah. Enough said.

Trullo
This Italian spot is great with a few friends because it means you get to share a bunch of the delicious, seasonal offerings. Their menu is constantly changing, so you can always expect to be pleasantly surprised. Downstairs, you'll find a slightly glitzier (though still very tasteful and understated) vibe and small plates that are a little fancier.

The Wells Tavern
Head downstairs here and you'll find a more casual sitting room and bar serving cocktails in addition to the usual food and drink pub offerings. You can eat over a game of chess or Scrabble, too, which is a nice touch. Meanwhile, there's a more formal dining room upstairs.
Specialty & Bars

69 Colebrooke Row
The lab above the bar is where resident mixologist, Tony Conigliaro, concocts recipes for his unique and delicious cocktails. Despite being open seven days a week with live jazz every Sunday night, the vibe is relaxed and cool. Make sure to reserve beforehand, as it’s a small space, or try the offshoot at the Zetter Townhouse.

GAIL's Bakery Hampstead
With locations all over the city and some of the freshest, most perfect bread we've tasted, you can pretty much count on Gail's for any dinner party. They have a constantly changing list of varieties as well as pastries, light salads, and prepared foods. The ingredients are all completely organic and chemical-free. Pit-stop on Friday or Saturday for a loaf of their unbeatable challah.

The Hummingbird Bakery
The Hummingbird Bakery landed in Notting Hill in early 2004 to become the home of quality American baking in London. This location is cute and convenient to walks in Regent's Park.

The Little One Coffee Shop
As its name suggests, this café and creperie is tiny, though that doesn't hold it back: For one, they work with sustainable, green coffee providers to bring new beans to customers every couple of weeks. For two, their pastries are house-made and include Brazilian pao de queijo cheese puffs and the most decadent fruit muffins ever. Most coffees are to-go, though in warmer weather there are a couple of seats available right outside the shop.

Panzer's
Located in St. John's Wood, Panzer's caters to its American expat neighborhood with hard-to-find US ingredients like Hershey's chocolate chips and Mexican corn tortillas. They also carry plenty of Italian specialty foods and their greengrocer is one of the best in London for unusual varieties of fruits and vegetables.

Pomona
Pomona is the quintessential neighborhood grocery store. It's the kind of place where the shopkeepers can tell you rich stories about every single item in there. Despite this intimacy, the selection is surprisingly complete. With produce, dairy, meat, fish, and even a bakery, you can pretty much do all of your grocery shopping in this perfectly tiny spot.

Real Food Market
Real Food Market launched their food festivals back in 2007, well before the organic and local food movement really took off in the UK. Though they still organize amazing festivals, they’ve expanded to two full-scale farmers markets with easy, accessible weekday hours. While you’ll find some produce here, the emphasis is really on prepared foods—in addition to ready-to-eat street food, you’ll also find cheese, jams, breads, smoked meats, and some of the city’s best pastries.

Ruby Violet
With its first parlour in Tufnell Park, ice cream innovator Ruby Violet has joined the ranks of major restaurants like Caravan and Dishoom and opened right in the middle of the action in up-and-coming Kings Cross. Now the droves of tourists, students, and area locals get to treat themselves to the incomparable concoctions—chocolate sorbet, licorice, and masala chai among them. Take it to go, or in the colder months, huddle in their gem box of a dining room behind the bar.

West Hampstead Farmers' Market
Highlights include veggies from Kent, a Greek stand with plump olives, the Wild Country Organics lettuce stand with a variety of all-organic greens like mustard, rocket, and others you've never heard of, plus a Celtic baker with a really nice variety of breads and baked goods.
Activities & Shops

John Lewis
John Lewis is great for home goods, kitchenware, clothing basics, and more. You'd be surprised at what you can find here. They deliver, and very quickly at that, making it so convenient you never even need to step foot in the store. Don't miss their home section for great, affordable, and durable English design.

Press
This is a favorite among Primrose Hill natives. Tucked into a small street, you have to ring the doorbell to get in. Once through the door you'll find a quiet and intimate shop that offers plenty of APC and Raoul, Vivienne Westwood, and Humanoid.

Primrose Hill
People all around London flock to Primrose Hill for the breathtaking 360 degree view. On summer days the hill is covered in picnickers taking in the sun. On winter days, there's always a dog walker or two, and when it snows, this is a prime sledding park.

Regent's Park
Straddling Westminster and Camden, Regent's Park features the largest grass area for sports in London, plus an open air theater, Regent's College, Regent's Canal, the London Zoo, restaurants, cafés, and so much more.

Roundhouse
From the Reverb festival that brings modern excitement to classical music, to hosting the hip Camden Crawl festival every May, Camden's Roundhouse is a hub for London's music scene, with young people at its heart. Acting as a community center of sorts, the goal of here is to inspire young adults to become interested and trained in the arts. Check their website for listings and details of their current events: expect rock, jazz, classical, folk and everything in between.

TwentyTwentyOne
This is the place where young couples go in Islington to furnish their East London homes with high-end, contemporary and modern classics created by the likes of Le Corbusier, Hans Wegner, Robin Day, and many, many more. The shop has recently expanded, but the floor is still just the tip of the iceberg. Make a point to inquire about their other stock.
Beauty & Health

Alexandra Soveral
After a long, dehydrating flight or an intense week at work or really any other time, come to think of it, there are few things we love more than a massage at Agua Spa in the Sea Containers hotel (formerly the Mondrian). Skin specialist Alexandra Soveral’s Signature Treatment is manna to your visage. A deep clean is followed by an intense lymphatic-drainage massage. Hot and cold stones are dipped in fragrant oils and rolled over the face, taking care of puffiness and smoothing out fatigue lines. Soveral’s organic, nontoxic products are made from botanicals grown on her family farm in Portugal—and they smell heavenly. Pick up a jar of Angel Balm, a miracle in a jar that you can cleanse with or smear on as a hydrating mask while up in the air or overnight in bed.

Chantal Freegard
The trek out to Barnet to see reflexologist Chantal Freegard (she makes North London home visits upon request) is a worthwhile exercise for anyone dealing with stress, insomnia, back problems, and infertility. Some say the energy changes in a room the minute she walks in. Part of her success comes from her long-standing practice in reflexology, and part comes from her foray into crystal healing. At the end of each session, she incorporates sound therapy using vibrating crystals from her personal collection, which she chooses intuitively for each client.

Gowri Motha, M.D.
Trained as a traditional obstetrician, Dr. Gowri became frustrated with conventional birth methods and has developed her own technique called "The Gentle Birth Method" which incorporates traditional Ayurveda among other modalities. She insists the entire process needn't be as painful and fraught with stress as it has become for many women. Her method is all-encompassing: Through a mix of private consultations and group sessions she helps women with infertility issues to become pregnant, and assists pregnant women through the process into birth and care-giving.

Triyoga
We were sad to see Triyoga's beautiful, Primrose Hill location go but are more than satisfied with its new airy, Camden replacement. Beyond the well-known yoga and Pilates classes—by far, some of the best the city has to offer—it's also worth checking out the infrared sauna sessions, craniosacral massage, intuitive readings, and nutritional, EFT, and CBT therapy (depending on what you're after).
Kids

Everyman Screen on the Green
This is one of Britain’s oldest independent theater groups—with cinemas in Hampstead, Belsize Park, Maida Vale, and more—and as such, they know how to entertain. Loved for their comfortable and stylish interiors—armchair or couch seating comes complete with footstool and a side table for that glass of wine and gourmet snack (no fake-buttered popcorn or boxed chocolate to be found).

Gill's Cookery Workshop
Gill's classes run every holiday from 9am until 3pm, over the course of which they teach about five to six dishes. Gill demonstrates and then the kids learn to make everything from scratch. Many courses are themed around seasons and holidays like Valentine's, Halloween, and Christmas. She also runs children's birthday parties with international cuisine themes like American, Italian, and Japanese.

Happy Returns
High up on Rosslyn Hill in Hampstead, this recently-expanded shop stocks an ample mix of conventional toys along with science and craft projects. Wrapping paper, party favors, and plenty of stickers are also available, making the birthday present-buying chore a bit easier. Anyone who has a child caught up in the Lego or Sylvanian Families mania will be well taken care of here. Their Schleich shelf, full of those classic and very realistic plastic animals, totally triggers nostalgia.

London Zoo
The animals at the London Zoo are well kept, so a visit here is always a happy one. Plus, a recent renovation converted many of the animals' enclosures, making them truer to how they live in nature. There are also a number of daily kids activities that are heavy on fun without skimping on education.

Talacre Treetops
This colorful indoor climbing frame for 6-month to 11-year-olds is part of the Talacre Sports and Community Center, and just a short walk from the Kentish Town West station. If you want to bring your really little ones to play, a good time is between 9-10:30am on weekdays for the "Under 5 Only" session.
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