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City Guides

What’s New and Great in San Francisco

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San Francisco is a rare gem that, by virtue of its topography, encourages you to experience the city from the outside in. Public murals, hidden stairways, breathtaking vistas, and out-of-nowhere pop-ups in beer gardens you’ve never heard of propel you across bridges, over hills, and down steep trails. So much of the buzz usually rooted in the heart of a metropolis—restaurants, exhibitions, store opening—has migrated to the not-so-sleepy-anymore suburbs. To get inside San Francisco, you have to go outside.

In the spirit of falling in love with the Golden City afresh, this guide is a celebration of what’s new and an ode to what’s still great in San Francisco.

Hotels

Montage Healdsburg

100 Montage Wy., Healdsburg

Buried deep in wine country, “a retreat for the modern age” is an apt descriptor for the new-ish Montage. Less than two hours from San Francisco, the property is as much a wellness destination as it is a wine-centric one. The spa is next level, with a roster of both traditional and more cutting-edge treatments available. Meanwhile, yoga happens outside amongst the vineyards. At its core, the Montage Healdsburg is a classic California resort: Understated, aesthetically respectful of the natural surroundings, and resolutely upmarket. Given the property sits on 250 acres, you are saturated in vines, oak trees, and native flowers at every turn—the level of space and isolation is total bliss. And the hotel has every amenity you can think of (with great activities for kiddos). The concierge crew are whizzes at arranging private tastings, tours, and bespoke dining experiences throughout the Sonoma Valley. Images courtesy of Christian Horan.

Palihotel San Francisco

417 Stockton St., Union Square

If we were to dream up the ideal, minimalist urban loft, the Palihotel—nestled right by heart-of-the-action Union Square—is it. Worn white brick walls, low-to-the-ground beds with warm striped throws, stylish mid-century-style chairs, and copper light fixtures distinguish the roomy spaces, and, like its sister properties, this outpost is sympathetic to the existing neighborhood style with its imposing, Mission Revival-style façade. Inside, though, soft pastel colors, plenty of stripes, and vintage-looking floral patterns adorn the common areas (which feel made for the freelance traveler who needs to bust out emails but appreciates pretty surroundings and quick service). Foodwise, Fisher Loft on the second floor is the kind of spot you check out for breakfast and come back for dinner: the burgers, jammy eggs, frisée salad, and (if you’re feeling extra) caviar service are menu standouts.

San Francisco Proper Hotel

45 McAllister St., Mid-Market

We stand behind anything Kelly Wearstler lays her bejeweled fingers on. The Wearstler-designed San Francisco Proper Hotel is a reason in itself to come here for a weekend. Located in the gritty-cool Mid-Market area, the Proper’s aesthetic echoes that of the surrounding streets. Interiors are a mashup of old and new, of clashing and complementary. Walking into the color-saturated lobby—with its medley of mirrors, paintings, and eccentric prints—feels instantly welcoming. Both the vibe and the music are intentionally upbeat. Guest rooms are on the small side but incredibly comfortable, and in a city as crowded as San Francisco, the bedside concierge tablet is a godsend for both recs and reservations. After supper out on the town, the best way to wind down is with a cocktail or steaming cup of tea on the wraparound rooftop, warmed by the firepits.

White Water

6736 Moonstone Beach Dr., Cambria

Moonstone Beach, the dreamiest, most ethereal Central Coast town, had us at moonstone. And then, you get to White Water. Sure, it’s a stretch from SF, but the wild beauty of the Cali coastline makes every minute in the car worth it. Naturally isolated, spacious, and outrageously scenic, this area is the hidden gem. Nina Freudenberger handled the surf-style interiors, and the mineral colors, natural materials, and earthy details—forest green tiles, abundant rattan—echo the wild landscape. There’s an almost spiritual sense of ease here—everything from the rocky terrain to the craft beers and kombucha served in the living-room-meets-lobby are intended to soothe. And they do. The minibar is pure California (Torres chips, Moon Juice snacks), the retro hotel bikes are Linus, and you’ll find Aesop in the shower. Check us in indefinitely, please.

Restaurants

The Anchovy Bar

1740 O'Farrell St., Fillmore

If you’re as obsessed with State Bird Provisions as we are, add Anchovy Bar to your SF roster. This slick, slate-gray space dishes up tasty platters of salty anchovies waiting to be smeared onto toasted ciabatta and topped with crisp radishes and crème Fraiche. This is the spot to dip into with a date or a friend to split grilled oysters, a few variations of those tiny, oily fish, and the unmissable Meyer lemon-miso clams.

Beit Rima

138 Church St., Mission

Beit Rima translates to “Rima’s house.” (The chef’s mother’s name is Rima.) Lunch here really does feel like a feast prepared by an accomplished home cook. In other words, the food is all comfort. The menu is an ode to Palestinian and Jordanian flavors: Expect simple, satisfying dishes like shakshuka; flatbreads scattered thick with za’atar; fresh, crunchy fattoush; and grilled kebabs. The restaurant has three locations, all with great outdoor seating and a solid takeout menu for pickup or delivery via Caviar.

Billingsgate

3859 24th St., Noe Valley

Billingsgate is all about championing local fishermen and showcasing their catch. Named after London’s most famous fish market, this is where you come to slurp oysters at the counter and pick up fresh sea bass or salmon from the accompanying market for dinner. The array of prepared bites (smoked salmon on brioche, assorted crudos) is delicious—and perfect for a quick lunch accompanied by a cold beer. The full roster of fresh and prepared goods, plus market produce, is all available for pickup and delivery.

Burma Superstar

309 Clement St., Inner Richmond

Borrowing liberally from Indian, Chinese, and Thai cuisine, Burmese dishes are rich, flavorful, and inventive, and no one does them better than Burma Superstar. A California standby since 1992, this family-operated institution has grown to include three locations (including one in Alameda and one in Oakland). While every outpost has it’s own specialty, each menu is guaranteed to include insane noodles, soups, and tons of veggie options. Portions are massive, so order accordingly.

Che Fico

838 Divisadero, Nopa

If anyone’s mastered the art of malty, bubbly sourdough pizza, it’s David Nayfield, who’s a household name in San Francisco for the magic he makes at Che Fico. If you’re open to fruit on pizza, the pineapple is sliced so thin it almost disappears. It’s so good. Then, go for handmade tagliatelle in glossy ragu, tender lamb loin, and fried, breaded balls of risotto. At Saturday or Sunday brunch, go for San Marzano Bloody Marys, Sightglass coffee, and the same famously good pizza with a fried egg on it.

Cotogna

490 Pacific Ave., Jackson Square

Not nearly as fancy as sister restaurant, Quince, Cotogna serves up Northern Italian fare using the highest quality ingredients from nearby markets. It’s the kind of stuff we’d happily eat on a nightly basis: fresh pastas, veggie plates, wood-fired pizza, and simple fish entrees. In the elegant, almost all-wood dining room, the vibe is lively but not loud as tables are generously spaced. If you can get a table, great, if not, dining at the bar while watching the chefs at work is pretty awesome, too. A better option yet is to snag the Chef's Table in front of the open kitchen (or reserve the entire place).

DamnFine

3410 Judah St., Outer Sunset

We ate a lot of pizza in 2020. If we weren’t dough experts before, we are now. DamnFine specializes in wood-fired crispy-crust pies, and our SF friends can’t get enough. What distinguishes DamnFine from other pizza joints are the pitch-perfect, market-fresh toppings—and you can go light or heavy, depending on what you’re into. Potato Pesto (purple potatoes, pancetta, woody herbs, and pesto), Mushroom Dream (all the mushrooms—enoki, king oyster, etc.—mozzarella, garlic butter), and Livin La Vida Verde (spring veggies, microgreens, mozzarella) are easy favorites.

Early to Rise

1801 McAllister St., Western Addition

A good weekend starts with bagels. A great weekend starts with Early to Rise bagels. Recently, Early to Rise pivoted from large communal brunches to weekend takeout (including a meticulous bagel kit and its famous brunch in a bag). The concept totally works. Chef Andrew McCormack cut his teeth at Quince and Jean-Georges, and each house-made crunchy-meets-chewy bagel thick with chive schmear and lox is a bite of heaven.

Fiorella

2339 Clement St., Richmond

Consider Fiorella your neighborhood red sauce joint, elevated with a dose of San Francisco polish. The classics—like meatballs, marinara pizza, and Little Gem salad—dominate the menu. But for Friday night takeout, we can’t resist the Sicilian spiced roast chicken with salsa verde and herby roast potatoes. Oh, and the make-at-home Margherita kit. When it comes to dining in, the wallpaper makes any wait worth it: Speckled with portraits of famous San Franciscans, it adds a quirky design edge to the otherwise streamlined space. Images courtesy of Grace Sager and Edna Zhou.

Flour + Water

2401 Harrison St., Mission

Come nighttime, the dim lighting and loud music draw a younger crowd to this tightly-packed gem a few blocks off the main Mission drag. The lineup of house-made pastas is as unusual as they come. From maltagliati with braised rabbit and sunchokes to trenette with pork sugo and chili, the concepts are always inspired. The pizzas are just as interesting. It's not a light meal, so come with hungry friends as a lot of it is great to share. The dough room where they roll the pasta during is available as a private dining room in the evenings.

Izakaya Rintaro

82 14th St., Mission

For a less typical catered meal in the Bay Area, we recommend Rintaro, which serves excellent Japanese-style food at private parties. They also have a restaurant in the Mission, which is worth checking out, too.

Ken

252 Divisadero St., Lower Haight

San Francisco is notorious for its exorbitance. However, the sushi at Ken is more affordable than most and just as good. A former Kusakabe team member, Ken Ngai is behind this spot, which centers on omakase and is a favorite of many.

La Ciccia

291 30th St., Noe Valley

In a nutshell, this is the place for incredibly authentic Sardinian food with an Italian-only wine list to match. Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan, the husband and wife team responsible for the magic, are particularly well-versed in seafood which explains why the braised octopus is some of the best we've had. On the pasta front, the bottariga spaghetti is no joke.

Laowai Noodles

Citywide

Hand-stretched noodle-making is an art few can (or do) master. William Lim Do cut his teeth at glitzy food establishments like Mister Jiu’s and State Bird Provisions, studied noodle-making in Lanzhou, China, and launched his highly coveted noodle kit pop-up during the pandemic. The waitlist for one of Laowai’s kits is in the thousands. Do makes every noodle, sauce, and pickle by hand and then delivers them himself. To taste the spicy, crunchy, scrumptiousness, sign up on the google doc link on Laowai’s Instagram, and...patiently wait your turn. This is one of the many incredible passion projects that have sprung up during quarantine, driven by a chef’s desire to share his craft with fellow San Franciscans.

Little Original Joe's

393 W Portal Ave., West Portal

Sibling business to red sauce hit Original Joe’s, Little Original Joe’s is a to-go counter and food market focused on “pizza, pasta, and parmigiana.” This is the spot to run into when work is over and the fridge is empty, or when friends are popping by for a casual meal. Rotisserie chicken, trays of lasagna, pizza, crunchy salads, and generous tubs of pasta sauce fill the space, plus wine and condiments. We love Little Original Joe’s for the sheer convenience and excellent selection of prepared foods and top-of-the-line pantry items that make great gifts.

Mamahuhu

517 Clement St., Inner Richmond

Mamahuhu is a newish spot from Brandon Jew (of Mister Jiu’s fame), where the food revolves around the Chinese American dishes we all grew up loving and still crave. Sweet-and-sour chicken sourced from local farms, cold sesame noodles, and silky, spicy mapo tofu are all standouts. Plus, a section of the menu is devoted to frozen items like potstickers and comforting hot-and-sour soup. The Mamahuhu gang is all about sustainability and transparency—even the takeout containers are fully reusable because they know you’ll come back for more.

Mister Jiu's

28 Waverly Pl., Chinatown

If you're looking for world class Chinese food in the heart of San Francisco's Chinatown, Mr. Jiu's is it. Chef Brandon Jew takes a modern approach to traditional Chinese food, putting his own twist on classic dishes such as pork buns and black sesame cake, already earning him a Michelin star in his first year. The wood paneled floors give the space Old World charm, but the views over the financial district let you know that you're at the heart of the city. They also have a wonderful bar with drinks such as “Harmony” and "Clarity", again blending Western spirits with traditional Chinese flavors like green tea, ginger, and lime.

Montesacro

510 Stevenson St., Mid-Market

A friend (who happens to operate a storybook organic winery in Tuscany called Querceto di Castellina) turned us on to this Mid-Market pizza-and-wine spot. And this friend knows her wine and her pizza. Montesacro specializes in Roman-style pies called “pinsa,” oval-shaped, puffy flatbreads topped with tasty cheeses, meats, and veggies. These charred pinsa (try the “Ostia” topped with pecorino, grilled artichokes, fresh mint, and bottarga) are perfect for sharing, with a few antipasti like meatballs or fresh-from-Italy burrata doused in pesto. The food—and the minimalist setting—is so elegant for a weeknight dinner (there’s also an outdoor terrace). Lastly, Montesacro’s little grocery section is the ideal hunting ground for last-minute gifts, pantry items, and even fresh pinsa dough to rustle up your own version at home.

The Morris

2501 Mariposa St., Potrero Flats

The wine list at The Morris is insane. As in forty-nine-pages-long insane. And then come the brandies, the amari, and sherry options (also pages long). You can gather from the booze list alone that supper here is intended to be a slow, special affair—and yet, the vibe is unexpectedly casual. Take a seat and start with some Tartine bread and pâté. For your main, it has to be The Morris’s signature dish—a whole, crispy-skinned duck, with French fries and a little gem salad on the side. Split a chocolate pudding for dessert, and don’t neglect that sherry selection.

Nari

1625 Post St., Japantown

Nari means “women” in Thai, which feels apt because women take center stage at this Japantown restaurant. Women lead the kitchen, the wine on the list is made by women, even the spirits stocked come from women-owned brands. The level of detail that touches everything here is off the charts, right down to diagrams of the glass shape your cocktail will arrive in. (Anyone else love a short tumbler and loathe a tall glass?) The food can only be described by a word we rarely use, because it’s so rarely applicable: authentic. These are the bold, spicy, sharp flavors we associate with trips to Bangkok. Chef Pim Techamuanvivit isn’t pandering to western expectations of what Thai food should be, instead, her shareable dishes are complex, powerfully flavorful, and impossible to forget. If you dine anywhere in San Francisco this year, make it Nari.

Nopalito To-Go

3690 18th St., Mission

Don’t panic. While Nopalito’s Inner Sunset location has closed, Broderick is still very much open, as is this new and very timely takeout window in the Mission. While you’ll spot many of Nopalito’s greatest hits on the menu, there are some Mission-exclusive dishes (hello, totopos con carnitas) that entirely justify the trip. For a hearty, outrageously tasty lunch on-the-go, the plato completo con pollo might just be the best rice bowl ever: Tomato-y rice, pinquito beans, pickled onions, and chicken under a shower of cilantro and lime. Afterwards, walk it off around the neighborhood with a spiced coffee in hand.

Pearl 6101

6101 California St., Central Richmond

Pearl 6101 was an instant hit when it opened in quiet-ish Central Richmond back in 2018. And, a few years in, this New American-style restaurant still hits the spot. Maybe it’s the airy, bright setting and wraparound bar that fills the space with chatter. Or is it the white Bolognese showered in Grana Padano cheese? Perhaps it’s the explodes-with-flavor olive oil cake redolent with Meyer lemon and tangerine that keeps us coming back. Whatever it is, we—and most of Central Richmond—can’t get enough of the vibe and consistently beautiful food.

Rich Table

199 Gough St., Hayes Valley

This is the kind of place you bring a friend from out of town to, because it shows off the best of what SF's food scene has to offer. The restaurant is owned by Evan and Sarah Rich, a married couple who met when they were working in the kitchen at Bouley. Though both Evan and Sarah come from fine dining backgrounds, the vibe at Rich Table is much more relaxed, which results in ambitious dishes and exotic ingredients presented in a refreshingly unfussy way. The move, if you can, is the chef's picks.

Tartine

1226 9th Ave., Inner Sunset

Going to San Francisco and not getting a buttery, cinnamon-scented morning bun at Tartine is like going to Venice and not seeing a canal. The lines at the original flagship are legendary, but thankfully a new SF location opened in the Inner Sunset neighborhood. Liz Prueitt and Chad Robertson’s bread is iconic—and yes, we realize we just called bread iconic, but we stand by it. (The secret sauce is in the heritage grains and fermentation...we think.) And so breakfast of smoked salmon, pickled onions, and cream cheese smeared on a slice of crisp toast is only logical. Fill a paper bag with Tartine’s outrageously chewy chocolate cookies, flaky croissants, and light-as-air muffins for later. You won’t be sorry.

Tony's Seafood

18863 Shoreline Hwy., Tomales Bay

Tony’s ownership may have changed, but the soul of this seafood joint (doling out oysters since 1948!) is still casual and rooted in the freshest catch. The oysters, crab rolls, steaming bowls of seafood stew, and proper fish and chips (with homemade tartar sauce) are all excellent. Right on the cusp of Tomales Bay, the setting can’t be topped—a plate of fish tacos or creamy chowder here before starting a road trip down Highway 1 is pure California.

Wildseed

2000 Union St., Cow Hollow

Wildseed feels very timely. The menu is entirely plant-based with hearty, tasty dishes that fill you up. Trumpet mushroom ceviche, a genuinely excellent veggie burger (the patty is a mushroom and spinach mash-up), curried cauliflower, and a full mezze plate replete with falafel and all the dips sounds like a stellar supper to us.

Zuni Café

1658 Market St., Hayes Valley

The menu at this classic French-slash-Italian restaurant changes daily but the delicious food remains a constant. The specialties are the whole roast chicken (it's made-to-order so expect to wait a bit), and the bread salad—both dishes were developed by Judy Rodgers who's been running the kitchen since 1987. Sadly, Judy passed away in 2013, but her incredible recipes live on.

Bars

Birba

458 Grove St., Hayes Valley

Birba feels like a slice of Copenhagen, or maybe Stockholm. The aesthetic is pared-back, blonde-wood-everywhere minimalism. It’s cool...like, really cool. The booze list leans toward natural, biodynamic bottles from small, primarily French and Italian producers. The sherry and vermouth list is expansive. For those looking to abstain from alcohol, Birba’s Seedlip spritz tastes like sparkling summer in a glass, especially when enjoyed on the pretty patio. This small bar also hosts regular food pop-ups.

Breck's

2 Clement St., Inner Richmond

Breck’s is that catch-all spot every neighborhood needs. Morning cappuccino? Breck's. Quick grilled cheese at noon on a Thursday? Breck's. A crisp glass of Chablis and light bites with a girlfriend? Breck's. The interior is cute and casual with Parisian-style round tables, open shelves so you can check out the bottle stash, and huge windows for that bright Inner Richmond light pour in.

The Junction

226 Shoreline Hwy., Mill Valley

San Francisco is a city to revel in the nature that envelops it. Hikes, bike rides over the bridge, general outdoorsy behavior is what weekends in Northern California are all about. The Junction hits the jackpot when it comes to a big, family-friendly beer garden with fantastic food and brews on tap. Pile around an outdoor table after a long hike and order a slew of pizzas from Pizza Hacker (they’re amazing, promise).

minimo

420 3rd St., Oakland

Airy, bright, and beyond soothing, minimo is a space for lingering. A long communal table encourages tasting and talking with a pack of friends or whomever you find yourself next to. The name “Minimo” translates from Italian to minimal—a nod to the strictly low-intervention, mostly biodynamic, terroir-driven wine list. If outdoor sipping is more your vibe, minimo’s patio area is part of a larger block party in collaboration with a neighboring brewery and grill. Take a seat, order a wine flight, or a bottle off the shelves inside, a cheese board or something tasty from the restaurant next door, and chill. To really get into the convivial Oakland vibe, join minimo’s wine club or attend one of their tastings, often led by a wine-maker. Images courtesy of Alison Christiana.

Moongate Lounge

28 Waverly Pl., Chinatown

From the crew behind Mister Jiu’s, Moongate Lounge is that sexy, moody cocktail bar you dip into when dinner’s over but you’re not ready to go home. An exciting drinks list feels just right after plates of sea urchin and mapo tofu at Jiu’s downstairs lures you in. But it’s the plush velvet sofas, dusky pink light, and bowls of spicy peanuts that keep you lingering well past bedtime.

Ordinaire

3354 Grand Ave., Oakland

Cool, casual, packed with locals—dogs and kids in tow—Ordinaire feels like the village gathering space. And in a way, it is. It’s the kind of wine-bar-meets-tasting-room-meets-store where you pop in to buy a bottle and end up staying to taste a few glasses with strangers who become friends. A stalwart of the Oakland wine scene, the bar has been around for a while, but regular events and menu changes mean Ordinaire feels fresh every time.

Verjus

550 Washington St., Jackson Square

Verjus is San Francisco’s answer to a contemporary Parisian wine bar. Think Septime, but in Washington Square. The owners are the duo behind Cotogna and Quince, so you already know the food will be fabulous. French-inspired plates like cheesy croquettes and duck confit dominate the sit-down restaurant menu (at the back of the space), while the tasting area is all about lighter bites, cheese, and tinned fish on toast. The wine list is, in two words: extensive and impressive. You could dine and drink at Verjus every week of the year and try something new each time. We love it here, and you will too.

Coffee & Specialty

Daily Driver

2535 3rd St., Dogpatch

The Daily Driver is a collaborative effort between several makers, all united in their love of the perfect bagel. David Kreitz makes the boiled, wood-fired bagels, his wife Hadley churns the organic cultured butter and organic cream cheese, while David Jablons and Tamara Hicks scouted the space and brought the vision to life. That vision encompasses the bakery, creamery, coffee roastery, and dining space. And once you bite into an everything smeared with cream cheese and topped with gravlax, there’s no turning back. Luckily, you don’t have to. Aside from dining in and pickup, the Daily Driver has an up and running bagel club. Order your goods on Wednesdays for pickup or delivery on Fridays. Not only will you get half a dozen of organic bagels and all the toppings, but you can also mingle (virtually) with other club members and taste new Daily Driver flavors first. Images courtesy of Frankie Frankeny.

Flour Craft Bakery

129 Miller Ave., Mill Valley

We heard about Flour Craft from a Coeliac staffer and were instantly intrigued. Verifiably good focaccia, sourdough, and brioche? Genuinely tasty airy scones, muffins, and brownies? Whole lavishly decorated cakes? At Flour Craft, the gang’s all here, and every doughy bite is gluten-free. Like all great businesses, this bakery was born from necessity. Founder Heather Hardcastle struggled with gluten and couldn’t find treats and baked goods to satisfy her sweet tooth. Aside from pastries, this spot serves up a full (and deliciously healthy) breakfast and lunch menu every day.

Jina Bakes

1581 Webster St., Japantown

Jina Bakes got our attention with their Daeho-inspired Kalbijjim croissant, but it’s the convenience (and delight) of their weekly pastry box that sealed the deal. Other than the famous croissants, what’s included? Expect treats like matcha cream puffs, butter mochi, panna cotta, strawberry cake, and handy portable pour-over coffee sachets should you choose to work through the box on the go. Each package comes with specific storage and reheating instructions, and the goods included change regularly. Preorders open early on Sunday mornings for the following weekend (pickups and deliveries happen on Saturdays).

Lucinda's Deli

535 Scott St., NoPa

To have a great sandwich spot in your back pocket during the age of WFH brings the peace of mind we all need. Lucinda’s Deli—a basement spot near Alamo Square—churns out subs that merit the long lines. We’re partial to the veggie Avo Smash (fried and pickled onions, cashew romesco, cucumber, and tomato layered with avocado) or the Roast Beef (jazzed up with Thai barbecue sauce) and a Topo Chico. These are hefty sandos that keep a grumbling stomach at bay until dinner. And while you can order the full menu for delivery, the nearby park is a lovely spot to enjoy your sub and a glimpse of the owner’s dog—and deli namesake—Lucy is worth the wait in line.

Luke's Local

Luke’s mission is as simple as it is admirable: to make life easier for busy professionals, working moms, stay-at-home dads, and everyone in between. There are meal plans and pre-packed lunchboxes—all prepped by professional chefs using nutritious, sustainable ingredients (there’s even a house butcher, so you know exactly where your meat comes from) and curated meal kits if you’re feeling ambitious. They’ll also stock your pantry and fridge with à la carte groceries or seasonal “bundles,” and can also deliver gourmet care packages, which make for a great gift.

Palm City Wines

4055 Irving St., Outer Sunset

Curated by the former wine director at Nopa, the wine list at Palm City is meticulous. But what gets San Franciscans to come out in droves are the hoagies (warning: they’re huge). Palm City is a wine shop, a wine bar, a sandwich shop, and a small plates dining spot. In essence, it’s an Outer Sunset gathering space brimming with good vibes. Let’s get back to the wine for a second: Palm City’s list is a special one, packed with tiny producers committed to biodynamic and organic principles (like the Italians behind Tuscany’s Castel Del Piano).

Shops

Atelier Lan Jaenicke

431 Jackson St., Jackson Square

Savile Row, London, 1920s. That is what came to mind when we visited this impeccable atelier in San Francisco’s historic Jackson Square. Owner and designer Lan Jaenicke will fit you for a custom piece, be it one of her architectural dresses or a silk blouse that feels like you’re cloaked in a cloud. Jaenicke, who has an unparalleled skill for creating clothing that is poetic and timeless, wanted the space to show the entire design process, from the fitting to the construction. (She actually sews some of the pieces on the premises.) You can also eye the ready-to-wear collection, all in silk, cashmere, and linen. And even if you’re not looking to shop and you’re just wandering down Jackson Street to admire the old facades, this boutique is worth a visit. Jaenicke has considered—and honored—every element of this 1860s brick-and-cast-iron building that was once the original Ghirardelli chocolate factory. She punctuated the space with antique scales, shimmering selenite hearts, and dried lavender. Everything is in harmony here.

Black Bird Bookstore

4541 Irving St., Outer Sunset

Outer Sunset is many things: a beachy neighborhood in San Francisco, home to many excellent surf shops (looking at you, Mollusk and Woodshop), and the place to come for Black Bird. The independent bookstore, curated by local owner (and voracious reader) Kathryn Grantham, is equal parts community hangout and retailer. Black Bird is unlike so many bookstores—and we love that about it. In lieu of traditional spine-out shelving, for example, books are displayed with the covers facing forward—like artwork. Because under Grantham’s pioneering eye, there are no bad choices. Each title is selected to propel new voices forward and to commemorate the fascinating history of San Francisco. Make it a first stop in the city—and bring nothing but time.

Caravane

3461 Sacramento St., Presidio

We happened upon this French home interiors brand on Instagram and were delighted to discover a brick-and-mortar location in Presidio Heights. A husband-and-wife duo helm Caravane with an assist from their daughter. Neutral hues, natural fabrics like linen and cotton, bright patterns, baskets—you name it, Caravane has the prettiest, earthiest version of it. The curtains are especially gorgeous and affordable, considering many are made with organic fabrics. And the terracotta salad bowls, wooden boards, and tablecloths mimic those I-need-that! kitchen items you stop the car for driving through the markets of Aix-en-Provence.

Cove

206 Fillmore St., San Francisco

We all spend so much more time in our homes these days, and nothing brings the outside in quite like a bevy of plants. Cove is a staple when it comes to dotting your interior with greenery. Better still, their inventory is grown locally when possible. The selection of pottery and baskets have a South-of-France-meets-Morocco aesthetic—in other words, the vibe is earthy and soothing. Cove is also a stellar spot to treat yourself to something small and pretty, like a new cookbook, a candle, or ceramic bowl.

The Epicurean Trader

465 Hayes St., Hayes Valley

Never has a name been more suited to a business. Epicurean Trader is exactly what you’d expect: a trader of small-batch, artisanal food goods, and then some. Every item within this gem box store is hand-selected and conjures images of wicker baskets stuffed with cheese and bread. If you’re planning a picnic, buy everything, right down to the salt (it’s Jacobsen’s), here. We especially love the gourmet kits, which here are curated by personality. (Who wouldn’t want to receive a sustainably packed box filled with olive oil, spices, sea salt, locally roasted coffee beans, and small-batch honey?) While many of the products are available online, visiting the stores—there are three of them—is an experience. The wildflower bouquets are exquisite, the interior is beautifully merchandized, and the bakery counter is a sweet dream. Store images courtesy of Leslie Santarina.

Foggy Notion

124 Clement St., Inner Richmond

Foggy Notion is one of those cute catch-all stores that stocks the best-of-the-best when it comes to easy treats and gifts. It’s the kind of spot you want to rummage through, lest you miss the Salty Caramels tucked at the back of a shelf. The edit here skews local and we’re partial to the Mira Blackman tie-dyed socks and baby onesies for new mama gifts. Stock up on hand-crafted, letterpress stationery while you’re at it.

Gemini Bottle Co.

2801 22nd St., Mission

Gemini Bottle Co. takes its aesthetic as seriously as its inventory. The store is beautiful in a pared-back, minimal way that encourages customers to hang out and really look around. This is the Mission spot you pop into for small-grower natural wine, a jar of anchovies, bountiful CSA boxes from local farmers, and fresh, hook-and-line caught fish. There’s a robust selection of craft beers, plus all the accoutrement you need to stock a bar at home—right down to the glasses. Gemini holds weekly complimentary tastings, runs a wine club, and keeps environmental concerns at the forefront of their business. Images courtesy of Lauren Hanussak.

Hero Shop

2205 Larkspur Landing Cir., Larkspur

The fashion crowd in SF was more than a little excited to find out that Emily Holt, formerly the long-time fashion news editor for Vogue, was bringing her exquisite taste back to her home city in the form of this adorable boutique in the Marin Country Mart. In addition to a great assortment of our favorite fashion brands (Khaite, La Double J, and Sophie Buhai, to start), her shop also carries a stellar selection of books and greeting cards, plus ceramics and other artisan products from local makers.

Marin Country Mart

2257 Larkspur Cir., Larkspur

San Francisco’s answer to Los Angeles’s food-and-shopping gem, the Brentwood Country Mart, the Marin iteration is also reliably great. The boutique lineup makes shopping anywhere else feel, frankly, unnecessary; Hero Shop, Jenni Kayne, Intermix, and James Perse next to interiors mecca Hudson Grace and handy gift stores like Sugar Paper. Foodwise, Hog Island Oyster Co. and the Farmshop top our list (there are tons of options). The sheer convenience of having stellar boutiques, restaurants, beauty, wellness, and necessities like shoe repair within one sprawling property cannot be beaten. Images courtesy of Matt Albani, Tammy Horton, and Hog Island Oyster Co.

Activities & Culture

Creative Growth

355 24th St., Oakland

A non-profit in Oakland, Creative Growth lives up to its name. The gallery represents and exhibits artists with developmental, physical, and intellectual disabilities while also functioning as a studio for over 140 creatives. The space is, in a word, ginormous. Twelve thousand square feet house multi-media studios, a kiln for ceramicists, the gallery, a kitchen, and a community hub. All the art produced on-site is for sale both online and through other galleries throughout the Bay Area. Portrait by Latefa Noorzai and abstract piece by Dan Miller.

de Young Museum

50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr., Golden Gate Park

Much like the Met in New York or LACMA in Los Angeles, the de Young Museum is San Francisco's encyclopedic public cultural offering—with a significant collection of Asian Art and celebrated holdings in sculpture, painting, and works on paper. After suffering significant damage during the Loma Prieta earthquake, the museum closed for five years starting in 2000 for a complete rebuild. The new Herzog & de Meuron-designed building and corresponding landscaping have made it into one of the most significant architectural destinations in the country. Even if you don't have time to stroll through the exhibitions, it's worth a trip to walk through their gorgeous grounds in Golden Gate Park.

Fraenkel Gallery

49 Geary St., Union Square

Jeffrey Fraenkel opened his eponymous gallery when he was just 24, and over the course of the last 35 years has built his brand as one of the best photography galleries in the country. With a formidable list of artists (he's shown everyone from Sol LeWitt to Diane Arbus, and he handles the estate of Garry Wineograd) and a slew of loyal collectors, he's had an enormous influence on many significant photography collections in the city.

Gallery Wendi Norris

436 Jackson St., Chinatown

Wendi Norris runs one of the most cutting-edge, meticulously curated galleries in San Francisco. Norris spent ten years in tech before pivoting to the art world. Her gallery represents a wide span of contemporary and modern creatives, focusing on Latinx surrealists like Leonora Carrington. To follow the gallery’s roster of artists is a commitment, given Norris’s penchant for site-specific exhibits across cities other than San Francisco.

Legion of Honor Museum

100 34th Ave., Lincoln Park

The Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco has two cultural institutions under its belt: The de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park and the Legion of Honor museum in Lincoln Park. While you’re here, dip into the permanent collection and find the French masters, Renaissance pioneers, and plenty of early twentieth-century photography to keep you occupied.

Petaluma Pottery

301 2nd St., Petaluma

For a fun, earthy activity that takes you away from screens, Petaluma Pottery delivers. Right now, the studio offers private lessons to individuals and groups residing in the same household. Workshops span skills as sophisticated as volumetric image transfer to tile making and introductory sessions for mini-potters. The Quarantine Clay Club Kits—to assemble at home—make great gifts or rainy afternoon activities for kids.

SFMOMA

151 Third St., SoMa

After closing HQ for renovation and running their programming remotely for nearly three years, SFMOMA opened its doors to the public again in 2016. This renovation nearly tripled the size of the museum’s gallery space, expanding it from 70,000 to 170,000 square feet and giving it more exhibition space than even New York’s Museum of Modern Art. The impetus for all the new square footage? To devote space to a generous loan from collectors Doris and Donald Fisher, whose collection comprises a survey of contemporary American art that starts in the 1980s and continues to today—visitors can expect to see Chuck Close, Andy Warhol, and Ellsworth Kelly well represented, plus a strong showing of German art from that timeframe. There are also plenty of other must-sees, including an expansive outdoor living wall, a room full of Clyfford Still behemoths, and Richard Serra sculptures that can be experienced for free by the public, as they occupy an open first floor. Tickets can be purchased in advance on the website.

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