Comptoir Darna

why we love it
A bar, a restaurant, and a boutique, Comptoir Darna does it all. The sprawling building has a clubby feel to it. My local friends have mentioned that it is a tourist spot, but it’s great fun just the same. A good spot for dinner and a drink plus, there’s a belly-dance show every night at 10:30.
Originally featured in The Marrakech Guide
Restaurants
$$$, $$$$
- Good For Groups
- Takes Reservations
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Amanjena
Like every resort under the Aman umbrella, Amanjena is known for spectacular lodgings, service, gardens, and pavilions (that’s right, not rooms—pavilions, each with their own private courtyard). It’s a splurge, but worth the trip just to visit the lush grounds (where there are date palms and olive trees around every corner), maybe for dinner or for a tea in the late afternoon. The property itself is a little outside the center city, so it's a great home base if you're hoping to explore both the medina and the Atlas mountains—the concierge can arrange for guided hikes of Jbel Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa, or for fresh mint tea with families in the nearby Berber villages. That said, with a gym, tennis courts, and a full-service hammam on-site, you may not want to leave the grounds at all.

Bab Hotel
This hotel is hip and sleek with a color palate limited to black and white. A boutique hotel, it has only 45 rooms and they are most definitely a great deal for Marrakesh. Le Bab is located in Guéliz, which has a distinctly modern feel as opposed to the Medina which is more traditional. I like that you can rent bicycles and Segways from the hotel to explore the city your way.

El Fenn
Owned in part by Richard Branson's sister, Vanessa, El Fenn is a bright spot in a city that's already wildly colorful. Years ago, Vanessa and partner Howell James were walking through Marakkech looking for a home to buy when they came across a once stately riad that was desperately in need of a resuscitation. The pair restored it to its former glory, and transformed it into a gorgeously appointed hotel, which now has 41 guest rooms. It has a number of restaurants, bars, and pools, and it's within striking distance of most of Morocco's biggest hits (see our Marrakech guide).

La Mamounia
"I stayed at the revamped historic La Mamounia Hotel, located in the heart of the imperial city. The Jacques Garcia designed interiors are splendid to say the least, and the hotel’s gardens are out of this world, almost from a fairy tale. The hotel has four restaurants supplying cuisine from around the world—L’Italien, Le Francais, Le Marocain, and Le Pavillion de la Piscine—and five bars to choose from—Le Bar Marocain, Le Bar Italien, Le Bar Churchill, Le Bar de la Piscine, and Le Menzeh 'Glacier & Patissier.' The food and drinks here are elegant and delicious, and with all the choices, it’s easy to stay in the hotel for an entire weekend of relaxation. Speaking of which, I couldn’t resist a daily Hammam treatment at the hotel’s spa. Get this: 15 minutes in a steam room, a full-body lather in black soap, an exfoliating rub down, a Ghassoul (Moroccan clay) body masque, and then a warm shower... Ridiculously lavish!" —Gwyneth, 2019

Royal Mansour
This crown jewel of Moroccan hospitality is home to 53 separate riads, each with their own courtyard and fountain. Every room, spa, and common space is dripping in elegant Moroccan décor, including intricate tiles, colorful silks, and traditional chandeliers and lanterns. What’s more, the palace has more than 500 staff members, offering service that’s literally fit for royalty. The entire medina is a labyrinth of soothing water sounds (from the aforementioned fountains) and lovely scents that waft up from the well-tended garden, which spreads out over every inch of unclaimed space—it’s especially magical at night, when the winding paths are lit up with candles. When you’re not out exploring the city, book one of the couples’ treatments in the jaw-dropping spa.

Al Fassia
This restaurant boasts some of the best traditional Moroccan cuisine in Marrakesh. Be sure to book in advance as it’s always full. Laetitia highly recommends the Lamb Shoulder for two.

Azar
Open night and day, this club dishes Lebanese food, fancy drinks at the bar and dance music downstairs.

Dar Marjana
I had the pleasure of dining at this restaurant which means “rare pearl” and indeed it is, found in the district that used to make up the Pasha’s palace. The restaurant is in a restored mansion and every night you’ll find the best traditional Moroccan dishes fit for a king (in fact, King Mohammed VI is known to visit here from time to time). It sounds exotic, but I promise the pigeon pie is a must! The added bonus to meals here is that belly dancers serenade your table, which my friends got beyond into. I’d almost like to upload the footage on YouTube—it’s that good—but for now I’ll leave to the imagination.

Grand Café de La Poste
Located in the new part of town. The food is French and the place, a renovated post office, has an old, elegant yet casual air.

Kechmara
Located in the new part of town, this restaurant has clean lines and a modern look. The café, restaurant, and terrace are a local hot spot with live music on Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays. Stop by for a croque-monsieur and a salad.

La Terrasse des Epices
This airy restaurant on a terrace overlooking the Cherifia Souk serves up light, simple Moroccan fare. The food is delicious and the place is so inviting you could easily while away the whole afternoon.

Cherkaoui Artisanat Export
An endless corridor of gold lamps in every shape and size. I had considerable trouble walking away without buying the whole store!

Mustapha Blaoui
A well-stocked and elegant one stop shop for all things traditionally Moroccan.

The Souk
In Marrakesh there is a sprawling Souk or traditional Moroccan marketplace, where myriad goods are sold in small stalls and stands that line labyrinthine hallways. Fruits, vegetables, rugs, lamps, furniture, spices and handcrafts are all sold here and have been for centuries. I loved the colorful pharmacies chock full of jars of herbs for all kinds of maladies, argon oil, and kohl for traditional eye-makeup. A great deal of haggling takes place at the souks, so brace yourself for bargaining. Laetitia Trouillet, our wonderful shopping guide, took us around to a few great boutiques and guided us through the souk, which can be overwhelming without the right person. If you’re ever shopping in Marrakech, she’s the person to call.

Yahya
This store is run by a British man named John who moved to Marrakech and converted to Islam and now “lives and looks like Cat Stevens,” according to my local friend. The Moroccan lanterns of all shapes and sizes that are sold in the store are of amazing quality and craftsmanship.
Holy Sites
From Michael Berg, several holy sites worth visiting in and near Marrakesh. These are the places where several Jewish saints are buried: 1. Saint Hanania Cohen is buried in the city’s Jewish cemetery. 2. Saint Yaacob Nahamias or Moul Almay, is buried in the town of Sidi Rahal, near Marrakech. 3. Rabbi Shlomo ben Hensh is found in the Ourika valley, about 2 hours from Marrakech. 4. Saint David Lachkar or Moulay Ighi, is buried at the highest point on the road to Ouarzazate, in the stronghold of the most powerful Berber family of the twentieth century, the Glaoui.
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