Champers

The (blissfully) underpopulated shores of Pigeon Beach have just a handful of bars and restaurants, including Catherine’s, an unassuming beach café preparing classical French cuisine with Provençal charm. Head chef Jack brings his years of experience in Michelin-starred restaurants to a seasonal menu featuring dishes such as lobster soup, fish carpaccio, stuffed calamari, and duck leg confit. The open dining area is accommodating enough for a walk-in off the beach, but since seats fill fast, it’s best to call ahead to reserve a table. You can make a day of it, too—between the allure of the Pigeon Beach’s crystal-clear waters, two cocktail menus (one dedicated entirely to gin and tonics), and nighttime entertainment from local jazz bands, Catherine’s is the best place to spend a lazy day.

This all-inclusive tennis retreat is designed to help you break a sweat with four championship tennis courts, a squash court, a basketball court, and a seventy-five-foot swimming pool, plus bocce and shuffleboard courts. There are even two beaches: one for water sports like Jet-Skiing, snorkeling, and scuba diving and another for lazing about. Active-minded visitors will be spoiled for choice, but if you want to take it slow, turn to the spa and wellness center for deep-tissue massages, yoga, and Pilates. Then retreat to your blue-and-white room, where you’ll find floor-to-ceiling glass doors, marble bathrooms—but no televisions, to ensure you’re taking advantage of the peace and quiet. We loved the attention to detail, like cold, scented towels poolside. At night, drop by Tamarind Tree for dinner and dancing and make a night of it—the fantastically fresh seafood is paired with wines from the property’s 25,000-bottle cellar.

Even if you’re not a bird-watcher, the sight of one of the largest frigate bird populations—known for the balloon-like red jowl of its male species—is well worth the trip. Frigate is home to an estimated 100,000 birds that migrate between the Galapagos and the Caribbean, with the male population appearing from November to February, and the baby nestlings popping up from March to July. A boat ride through the mangroves of the lagoon brings you as close as five feet to the awe-inspiring creatures—since there are no predators on the island, they remain undisturbed by your presence. The population temporarily dispersed after 2017’s Hurricane Irma, but the birds have since returned, first slowly and now, happily, in droves.

The first thing you’ll notice on this private island (accessible only by boat): white sand beaches as soft as talc and water so blue it looks like it’s been plugged in. Golf carts or bicycles bring you to one of the private villas that dot the circumference of the island, and accommodations run the gamut. There’s Mariposa, a nine-bedroom home, complete with personal tennis and basketball courts, and also more-modest one-bedroom suites, each with its own living room, private garden, plunge pool, and wraparound terrace. It’s impossible to make the wrong choice. Memorable touches include personalized stationery and a fleet of sailboats for guests (for both beginner and experienced sailors).

A blinding sea-blue view from the top of a cliff provides the ideal backdrop for an afternoon dipping in and out of infinity pools, lounging on day beds, and dining on delicious small plates. Everything at Sheer Rocks is prepared in-house, and the seafood is either line- or hand-caught. Quick bites include broccoli in ponzu yogurt and steak tartare, but if you have time, the seven-course tasting menu with wine pairings is worth it. Top off the day with a tropical dessert option: coconut-rum-soaked watermelon slices and pineapple tossed in passion fruit.

Between the rocks of a jaw-dropping cliff, the flicker of torches and candelabras, and the sound of crashing waves, it’s hard to believe anyone remembers what’s actually on their plate when they dine here. But chef Paul Owen does an impressive job of reminding the guests—with his seafood-ruled menu of shrimp ravioli with pesto and tomato fondue, crab cakes in coriander cream, and fresh catch of the day.

Cobblers Cove reminds us of a tropical country club: Keep the pastels, vintage florals, and starched white linens of a Slim Aarons photograph, but add in the warmth of a friendly staff, a gorgeous sea view, and a stiff rum punch. The 1940s mansion has drawn guests through its powder-pink walls for decades, thanks to the impeccable service and a restaurant often hailed as the best on the island. The charming room décor includes white bamboo seating, Egyptian cotton bed linens, goose-down pillows, and an absence of televisions. Stimulation comes the old-fashioned way: a jaunt on the easily accessible beach, where snorkeling reveals turtles darting among coral, or an indoor game of chess or checkers inside the wood- and leather-accented dining hall. Time dinner to catch the sunset, when the golden light illuminates the walls of the Camelot restaurant, where Bajan chef Jason Joseph grills the catch of the day to perfection.

These spacious, coral-stone cottages are spread across tropical gardens on the west coast of Barbados. The air-conditioned rooms offer total privacy, and the larger villas—three- and four-person suites—are each equipped with a plunge pool, kitchen, and a lounge and dining area. The interiors feature traditional fretwork, rustic wood furnishings, comfortable beds, and cream-hued linens. The property has been run by the same family since the 1950s—the O’Haras—who know the ins and outs of their seaside villas well enough to intuit the needs of their frequently returning guests. Acting more as hosts than managers, they open their home to guests every Monday night for a cocktail party and outdoor BBQ buffet.

Asianne’s light, airy dining room is elegantly done with cream-colored walls and navy-and-yellow upholstery to play up the island vibe. But before you take your seat, head over to the huge open kitchen, and take a moment to ogle it: It’s a work of art. With a black-and-white checkerboard floor, stainless-steel-and-cream cabinetry and worktops, cream subway-tiled walls, a wood-burning stove, and a giant tandoor oven, this is the place for dinner and a show. Chef Nonky Tejapermana has put together a menu that showcases local ingredients and Eastern flavors: a tender, five-spice-roasted duck salad with just the right amount of heat; three types of slow-cooked curry; crispy pork belly in Sichuan chili sauce. You won’t have room, but order dessert anyway—the pandan panna cotta with lemon-honey-marinated fresh local mango and Grenadines pineapple sorbet is not to be missed.

Located on a picture-perfect stretch of Godahl’s beach on the Atlantic side of the island, the Mandarin Oriental takes full advantage of the sweeping views out over the water. The hotel’s twenty-six colonial-style suites and thirteen villas all face the ocean; ground floor suites have individual access to the beach, and those on the upper level have balconies overlooking it. The rooms are done in a palette of creams with dark woods and fuchsia accents, and each is equipped with every luxury you could wish for (walk-in closet, indoor and outdoor lounge areas, Nespresso machine, Acqua di Parma toiletries, blackout shades, yoga mat, beach bag, your own personal butler) as well as a quite a few you’ve never thought of, like an iPad that controls nearly everything in the room. The pink lounge chairs on the beach and by the infinity pool are perfect for a morning of doing nothing. Then grab lunch at the pool bar—the conch ceviche or the shrimp tacos is the way to go.

During the day, L’Anse Guyac beach is a semicircle of tropical paradise: powder-fine white sand, crystal-clear azure water, a handful of palapas over navy-cushioned lounge chairs. But at night is when it really comes into its own. Torches light the narrow stone path down to the beach, where the sound of the water lapping is the perfect soundtrack for a predinner cocktail in the tented lounge on the sand. Try the L’Anse Guyac twist, created by local bartender Emmanuel May—fresh ginger, mint leaves, lime, and orange, with bitters, sugar syrup, Grenadine syrup, and Captain Bligh rum—it’s bright and not too sweet, with just a little kick. After drinks, move up to the open dining area. The highlight of chef Omar Bernardini’s menu is fresh seafood: There’s a jumbo crab appetizer with guacamole and locally grown mango; fresh-caught tuna tataki with sesame, wakame, and wasabi mayo; and a Catalan-style lobster with red onions, tomato, and mustard citronette. The standout is the Thai-inspired Rice Khao Sapparot, with prawns, pineapple, and yellow curry—the sweetness of the pineapple is the perfect complement to the heat of the curry.

Canouan’s a small island, and while there are plenty of places you can walk, there’s just one proper hiking trail, but we loved it so much, we felt it deserved its own entry. If you’re staying at the Mandarin Oriental, you can go with a guide—the trail is easy to follow, but it’s worth going with someone who can point out the flowers, reptiles, and more you might miss along the way. The trail starts just behind the old casino (a remnant of the island’s short-lived Trump era) and winds up a steep single track through thick forest—you’ll want a good stick for support; there are plenty to choose from at the trailhead—to the top of Mount Royal, the highest point on the island. On the way up you’ll spot orchids, turtles, and giant, tree-climbing hermit crabs. At the top, take a right toward the Mount Royal summit, and decide how far up the jagged boulder you’re willing to scale. You’ve got a stunning view north toward Mustique—but free one hand to take a picture at your own risk. Once you’ve clambered down off the rock (there is no graceful way to do this), head to the other side of the trail. Mount Royal “basecamp” is a broad, flat rock where you can have a seat, enjoy a drink or a snack, and take in the view: The south end of the island uncurls in green below you, and beyond that, out across the impossibly turquoise water, you can see the southern Grenadines—Mayreau, Union Island, Palm Island, Petit St. Vincent—and, on a very clear day, Grenada.

With dark wood tables, navy-and-white upholstered chairs, and beautifully painted murals on the walls, Tides is a graceful, comfortable space even when the windowed French doors aren’t open to the view of the beach and sea beyond. There are also two private dining rooms you can book for a special occasion. The menu offers a selection of meat and fish, and many of the ingredients are grown on the island or sourced from nearby St. Vincent. A variety of small plates feature fresh seafood and local specialties, like a conch chowder with purple potatoes and a spice-dusted crispy fried jackfish—a small, strong-flavored fish that you eat whole—with creole sauce and plantain crisps. There are excellent steakhouse options (porterhouse, tomahawk, filet mignon, or lamb chop, with five sauces to choose from), but vegetarians hardly suffer: The wild mushroom and squash risotto with blue cheese and basil oil is something to be remembered.

“Blue” is hardly an apt descriptor for the perfectly still surface of shimmering turquoise that undulates to cerulean and navy as you float along this three-hundred-meter-wide lagoon. A tour by boat or bamboo raft takes you to a small beach, but that chameleon-esque water is less welcoming than it seems—it’s thirty feet deep and surprisingly cold. Still, visitors get a thrill from swinging off of one of the nearby trees and plunging into the water.

Comprising a handful of Caribbean-blue villas nestled in the limestone cliffs of Jamaica’s west coast, the Caves benefits from one of the best locations on the island. Each one- or two-bedroom cottage is fitted with tasteful wooden furnishings, stained-glass windows, and hand-dyed fabrics. For larger groups, the Clandestino, a three-bedroom villa under a thatched roof, offers a private pool, a hot tub, and a sauna. Not all of the cottages have sea views, but those that do will bring you so close to the endless expanse of water that it feels as if you could jump in from your back door. In fact, beach access requires a leap of faith—guests climb ladders, ranging from five to thirty-three feet, to jump off the cliffs into the warm sea below. The staff is well-versed in everything related to the ocean and can guide you through a snorkeling adventure while providing amazing detail. For breakfast, the Gazebo serves Jamaican and American items like callaloo, ackee, and saltfish, as well as fresh banana pancakes and omelets. At night, stroll down a coral staircase to the Blackwell Rum Bar, carved out of the volcanic cliffs and stocked with the Caribbean’s finest rum options.

The nineteenth-century home of Jamaica’s first black millionaire is now a National Heritage Site, a house museum, and a center for the best local shopping and desserts. The ground level is inhabited by independently owned specialty stores that celebrate Jamaica’s rich, local flavors through gourmet delicacies. Not to be missed: Devon House Bakery’s selection of beef, chicken, fish, and vegetable patties and the fresh fruit smoothies and coconut water served in its shell from CocoRaw. For your sweet fix, grab a box of truffles made with local cocoa at Chocolate Dreams and try a scoop of tropical ice cream—coconut, guava, and mango are all winners—from the beloved Devon House I-Scream.

The hospitality offered by “Scotchie’s” close-knit team of five—cook, butler, waiter, housekeeper, and gardener—is unmatched in Ocho Rios. Head chef Cherry consults with guests daily to craft seasonal menus that take into consideration dietary intolerances and food sensitivities. Rooms in this villa are impeccable, with high-quality linens and beautiful details, but the best feature of this five-bedroom house is its location. It’s right on the edge of a cliff, hovering above the White River Fish Sanctuary coral reef. Wake up early—sunrise over the Caribbean Sea from your bedroom window should help—and start the day with kayaking, paddleboarding, or snorkeling (all your gear is provided).

There’s hardly a bad beach in Jamaica, but this one is a star among stars: calm waters; soft, powdery sand; excellent restaurants; and that painfully beautiful ombré of blue that matches sea to sky. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, this is not your spot. Instead, save Seven Mile for when you’re feeling social. This is where tourists and locals reliably like to meet up.

This is another Chris Blackwell property (the other is GoldenEye), and as the founder of Island Records, Blackwell keeps the walls of these white wooden cottages lined with an array of historic rock-and-roll memorabilia. (This is the place Bob Marley chose as an escape when he faced threats to his life in the mid-1970s.) It feels like a secluded mountain village tucked high in the contours of Jamaica’s Blue Mountain Range, over 3,000 feet above sea level. The nineteenth-century Georgian architecture has a sophisticated, laid-back charm, matched by hand-dyed batik linens and four-poster beds with billowing drapes. And it’s almost a magical experience to stroll through the morning mist in the private gardens before breakfast. The hikes (led by expert staff members) give you a real sense of what the interior of the island is all about; afterward, unwind with an aloe wrap at the spa. But our favorite thing to do was to take in the views—every last heart-stopping one of them.

Jamaica’s Rastafari prescribes a vegetarian-friendly, alcohol-free diet that strips food of all additives and preservatives to harness the life energy that runs through us all, and it birthed a food movement known as ital cooking (“ital” is Jamaican patois wordplay on “vital”). Stush in the Bush is a restaurant built on a fifteen-acre farm. Ital cooking is honored here, and dishes are prepared with fresh, local vegetables by Christopher and Lisa Binns. Expect vegan pizzas topped with plantain, cherry tomatoes, and roasted eggplant; ratatouille served with fresh basil; and tropical greens. The selection of fresh juices—watermelon and lime, ginger and lemongrass—are a necessary addition to counter the flamboyance of the flavorful Scotch Bonnet pepper sauce that accompanies several plates. It’s wise to make a reservation—and don’t come too hungry, because Chris begins every meal with a personal tour of the property. The on-site store sells local preserves, including vegan lemon curd, passion fruit butter, and vegan basil pesto, which make perfect gifts and even better pantry fillers.

The staff at Zimbali, a twenty-minute drive east from Negril, hold a theory that Jamaica gets more interesting the farther out you get from the cities, and the eco-friendly retreat makes a strong case. It’s attached to a seven-acre organic farm, and the abundance of Jamaica’s bounty is delivered fresh and prepared exquisitely. The dinner begins with a blended juice made of fruit picked straight from the soil or tree, and then a guided tour of the land that grows the ingredients for the night’s meal. Then sit at the counter and watch the chef create a six-course culinary journey, with bowls of pumpkin soup, jerk shrimp, and perfectly seasoned fish wrapped in banana leaf. Try to snag a table on Wednesday night when African drummers provide live entertainment.

Born from the imagination of James Bond novelist Ian Fleming, GoldenEye is rooted in such cultural lore, it’s hard not to feel like you’re playing a part in a glamorous spy story. It was here Fleming penned all fourteen Bond books (the author’s home, the Fleming Villa, can be reserved separately), and this is also where Bond’s cinematic debut, Dr. No, was filmed. But if these cultural muses don’t inspire a trip, consider that the collection of villas was also constructed by an all-star cast. Chris Blackwell, the founder of Island Records, enlisted Ann Hodges, one of Jamaica’s most noted architects, to produce the property’s supremely comfortable accommodations, fitted with hardwood floors, outdoor showers, and lush, secluded gardens. Go for one of the six lagoon cottages, which were built to hover above the tranquil water and have private docks for midnight swims and morning paddleboarding. In the spare, octagonal bedrooms, louvred windows welcome natural sea breezes to replace air-conditioning.

Kanopi blends seamlessly into its environment, a compound of tree houses hidden deep in a grove of hundred-foot Banyan trees, bamboo shoots, and ginger lilies. In fact, it was built with such consideration for its environment, the one tree on the property that was cut wound up being repurposed into a set of dining tables. Floor-to-ceiling doors fold away to reveal the dramatic rain forest foliage that seems to practically climb its way indoors. Each tree house feels intimate and romantic, with crisp white linens, handcrafted wood furnishings, and vibrant artwork, all made by local artisans. For food, Kanopi relies on local produce like plantains, breadfruit, sweet potatoes, and fresh papaya from the surrounding forest. For all its rural charm, it’s also just twenty minutes from Port Antonio, so the perks of city life are easily accessible during the day, before you return to your private rain forest hideaway at night.

The bar for fine dining is set inside the walls of the historic Condado Vanderbilt hotel. Here, executive chef Juan Jose Cuevas crafts his menu in collaboration with local farmers. The aftermath of Hurricane Maria has been a lesson for Cuevas in what plants best survive devastation. The menu explores the whimsy of Cuevas’s mind: tuna in arugula-almond pesto, salmon confit, eggplant for dessert. More than a meal, 1919 is a conversation with the land of Puerto Rico that can connect you to the spirit of the country.

Chef and owner Martin Louzao recently moved Cocina Abierta to the trendy streets of Condado, where the cool-kid atmosphere of the eclectic kitchen fits right into the fashionable neighborhood of boutique stores. The menu is composed of five acts, with each unit working to form the full dining experience: appetizer, vegetable, seafood, poultry and pasta, and finally, red meat. Select one dish from each act to create a custom tasting menu, so your final play-by-play might be fresh ceviche, roasted cabbage with onion jam, seafood green curry, goat cheese ravioli, and lamb Wellington. Even the wine parings have a creative edge: Sommelier Arturo Campos suggests multiple wines for every dish—a classic if you want to play it safe and a wild card if you have a taste for adventure.

Laurance S. Rockefeller’s dream to create a resort and natural sanctuary in Puerto Rico became a reality in 1958, when he opened his resort at Dorado Beach. Environmental conservation remains a priority at this 1,400-acre property, and outdoor activities range from an eleven-mile hiking trail to two golf courses with views of the surrounding mountains and sea. Rooms come with floor-to-ceiling glass sliding doors, deep soaking tubs, and outdoor showers, and some have private plunge pools or rooftop terraces. The spa has steam pavilions, warm and cool pools, and a tree house for massages.

Inspired by the coral reefs surrounding Vieques, El Blok’s unusual Brutalist architecture comes courtesy of Puerto Rican architect Nataniel Fuster. Natural light and fresh air flit through the round cutouts of the concrete walls, creating shadows to mimic the feeling of being underwater. The four-story building curves around an oval atrium, meaning there are no hard angles to be found in the twenty-two spacious one-bedroom suites. Minimalist in nature, each room is a playfully designed mixture of texture and light, featuring sleek furnishings and lightweight cotton linens. Upstairs, El Blok’s swanky rooftop bar and infinity pool draw live bands, DJs, and a crowd of locals. Skip across the street to the Vieques beach, where you may be able to catch sight of some of the wild horses that roam the island.

El Yunque is the only tropical rain forest in the US—and it’s still recovering from the recent storms, but don’t let that deter you. On the 29,000 acres, there is still a plethora of hiking trails through an exotic landscape of flora and fauna begging for your attention. You might want to hire a guide to help you take it all in. Pack a light lunch for the end of the forty-five minute trail that takes you straight to the awe-inspiring La Coca waterfall.

Iowa native Peter Schintler has attracted culinary praise in restaurants across the globe, from New York City to Singapore. But over the past decade he has put down roots in Puerto Rico, where his restaurant Marmalade checks every box of the perfect dining experience. The service is informative but unobtrusive, the atmosphere offers a balance of romance and comfort, and the innovative farm-to-table menu features paella sushi, shrimp tossed with popcorn and avocado salsa, and a lobster risotto that melts in your mouth. Do not underestimate the tiny white bean soup, Marmalade’s signature, topped with black truffles and guaranteed to have you singing Schintler’s praises before you reach the entrée. And although water damage from Hurricane Maria forced Marmalade to temporarily close its doors, its liquid gold—an impeccably curated wine collection—was thankfully preserved.

You could walk right past the staircase entry to this small but memorable restaurant if you’re not careful. On the upper level of a neighborhood strip mall, chef John Aboud mixes a range of culinary influences—French, Mediterranean, Italian, Basque—into deceptively simple, exquisite dishes. Highlights include wild mushroom soup, roasted lamb chops, and an unforgettable basil panna cotta. Downstairs at Aioli Marketplace (a gourmet deli), Aboud branches out with a lunch selection of fresh salads, pastries, and sandwiches.

Led by Italian chef Cristian Grini, Buzo’s focus is honest, authentic cuisine. That means fresh, handmade pasta classics like four-cheese ravioli in truffle honey and a killer lasagna. Innovation shines through in subtle tweaks, like an appetizer of mushroom tempura and the selection of crowd-pleasing thin-crust pizzas topped with Manchego and arugula or roasted eggplant and prosciutto. Snag a seat in front of the glass-walled kitchen to watch the team flex its muscles. The stone-and-granite interior is lit in soft neon that creates a fun, moody spirit—the perfect place to start the night.

The menu at Chaud is a tribute to the cross-cultural influences of local cuisine, a mix of East Indian, African, and Middle Eastern flavors. The result is one-of-a-kind dishes like tandoori-spiced charred octopus and pork chops rubbed in pepper jelly. The cocktail menu follows a similar theme with a refreshing Tamarind Sour.

Local foodies scour the calendars for Fanatic’s monthly chef’s table dinners, where local chefs create a sampling menu by theme. The result is an improvisational tasting menu focused on local flavors. For example: a Jamaican and Trinidadian culinary tour that produced coconut jelly ceviche, crab and conch risotto, red bean cake with pulled stewed chicken, and black-eyed pea hummus. The chef of the evening is usually on hand to guide diners through each course in exquisite detail.

The go-to for a luxurious stay in Trinidad, the Hyatt Regency shines with a seaside location in the heart of Port of Spain. Rooms are sleek, with white oak floors and plush but firm bedding. Waterfront and city views are salves to the eyes but easily avoided during early mornings with blackout curtains and noise-blocking walls. Downstairs, the Waterfront bar and restaurant offers a complimentary breakfast service, a sushi bar, and café. Take a seat on the outdoor patio for undulating sea waves over plantain chips and coffee. Upstairs, the hotel pool offers a stunning view of the city, and the nearby spa can take care of any bodily woes with a menu of mani-pedis, facials, and deep-tissue massages.

A pond of clear water and shimmering coral are draws of Nylon Pool, which Princess Margaret visited on her honeymoon—but these are hardly the only reasons to visit. What makes these shallow bodies of water within the ocean magical is their location in the middle of the Caribbean Sea (the pools are all enclosed by coral, hence the name “pool”). Book one of the glass-bottom boats docked at Pigeon Point and gaze down at local marine life during the fifteen-minute journey over. It’s a little surreal to find mini swimming pools enclosed by dark seawater, but it’s great fun to float and snorkel here. Locals swear that a swim in the aquamarine waters is the secret to eternal youth.

Architect Arne Hasselqvist constructed these fourteen villas from a medley of well-sourced materials: greenheart hardwoods from Guyana, oil-ribbed bronze hardware from Peru, granite and marble countertops from Brazil. The finished product is a seamlessly integrated design that channels the old-fashioned glamour of a Caribbean manor house. The villas—which range in size from a one-bedroom with a king-size bed to a four-bedroom that can accommodate seven adults—each come with an infinity pool, private gardens, and panoramic sea views. Breakfast can be cooked in your private kitchen upon request, and the Pavilion Restaurant is always a solid bet, serving Caribbean and American fare in a lush garden setting.