What’s New and Great in Paris

Cheval Blanc’s 72 spacious rooms and suites occupy what was once the south end of La Samaritaine, one of Paris’s great department stores, and the hotel retains much of the building’s original Art Deco character. (Samaritaine, also now under LVMH ownership, continues to operate next door.) Rooms on the higher floors enjoy views of more distant monuments; from the terrace garden on the rooftop, guests get all 360 degrees, sweeping from the Eiffel Tower to Sacré Cœur. The mostly-subterranean Dior spa is complete with six lush treatment rooms, a tiled indoor pool that looks out over the Seine, and a hammam, sauna, and snow shower, which is exactly what you think it is. The crown jewel of their culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude; reservations are difficult to snatch and worth booking your whole trip around.

In the Latin Quarter, right between Boulevard Saint-Germain and the Seine, Hôtel Dame des Arts is a contemporary gem in a very old part of town. Guest rooms may not be incredibly spacious—this is Paris, after all—but they make good use of their limited square footage, and large windows keep the space from feeling cramped. That said, it’s worth shelling out for a premium room or a suite, some of which come with balconies or private terraces. At the downstairs restaurant, which has a pretty courtyard garden, chef Othoniel Alvarez Castańeda pulls off Mexican-French-Asian fusion. And the rooftop bar is an especially cool place to hang out for sunset drinks; it’s a rare place in Paris with a 360-degree view, and you should soak it in for as long as possible. The teensy spa has just one treatment room (for massages, exclusively) and a sauna, but the fitness room (also small) is visually stunning enough to carve out time for, even if your schedule’s packed.

Hôtel des Grands Voyageurs occupies a middle ground that’s increasingly hard to come by in Paris: It’s well-designed and the service is solid, but it’s not true luxury, and the price point matches. The guest rooms run on the small side, but they are quite pretty, done up in a palette of cream, chestnut, pistachio, and slate blue—vaguely nautical, as are a few other details. The downstairs bar is a highlight: Poppy is inspired by the clandestine energy of speakeasies and opium dens, with good cocktails and better DJ sets. You might take advantage of the small gym and sauna downstairs, too.

In Paris’s Little Tokyo, at the end of Rue Sainte-Anne, Hotel Hana feels like a cozy and refined refuge from the bustling streets outside. The 26 guest rooms are designed to combine Belle Epoque glamour with Japanese minimalism, and the results are soft, feminine, and totally relaxing. Hanabi, the bar and restaurant, is moody and lush. There’s a small spa, too, with just two treatment rooms and a pool that’s better for soaking than swimming.

Hotel Madame Rêve draws a particularly cool and fashionable crowd. The restaurants are a big part of the draw: The one downstairs, Kitchen by Madame Rêve, serves contemporary French food in a high-ceilinged space that feels like old-school New York, and the one upstairs, La Plûme, is a buzzy spot for late-night drinks, French-Japanese food, and views of the cathedral next door. There’s a rooftop cocktail bar, too, which you can reserve for private parties. The 82 guest rooms are well-designed, clad in warm wood and golden yellows, many of them with courtyard-facing terraces or views of household-name monuments. The whole place runs dimly-lit, which could be sexy or frustrating depending on your perspective.

La Fantaisie has a rooftop bar, an all-day café, and a dreamy restaurant in a solarium. At the spa, guests enjoy body and facial treatments using the French beauty brand Holidermie and unwind in the spa’s baths, sauna, and hammam. It’s not far from Pigalle’s main drag. But even if none of the above were the case, we’d have fallen in love with this hotel for its pastel palette: light wood, blush, butter yellow, pistachio, and misty blue.

It’s impossible to choose our favorite thing about this glamorous Le Marais hotel: the stripe-bottomed pool with a ceiling fresco by artist Jacques Merle? The in-room beauty bar menu from Oh My Cream that delivers Augustinus Bader, Tata Harper, and more to your door in 30 minutes or less? The rich design that feels as if you've entered a Wes Anderson film? Swedish interior designer Martin Brudnizki took inspiration from the salon culture of the Enlightenment, mixing eclectic prints, beautiful textures, French-artisan-made furnishings, and antiques from Paris flea markets. It’s the fourth luxury property from family-owned boutique hotel group Maisons Pariente—and in true Maisons Pariente fashion, expect elegance and exceptional service. Don’t miss dinner and drinks at the hotel restaurant, Boubalé, by Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit.

Above the boutique of artisan tie-maker Cinabre, this hotel consists of only two guest apartments, both beautifully and expertly decorated: upholstery by Pierre Frey, beds by Hästens, linens by Bergan Delorme, tableware by Cristal de Paris, and dressing gowns, slippers, silk scarves, and stationary by Cinabre itself. Plus: in-room massages, excellent room-service breakfast, knowledgeable concierge service, meticulously curated vinyl collections—there’s a vintage turntable in each room—and access to the exclusive and prestigious squash club Club du Jeu de Paume de Paris.

This stylish hotel, squeezed between the Marais and Bastille districts, has a front-row views of the Seine and Île Saint-Louis. Terrazzo marble floors reflect the cobblestone streets of Paris. The lobby is spectacular, with giant pillars, amber-glass mirrored walls, and a striking painting by French-Algerian artist Neïl Beloufa. And the hotel collaborates with artists, florists, and brands on rotating pop-ups. The 162 rooms are sleek and modern, and categorized by view. We love the details like warming-towel racks, bulldog-shaped speakers, and floating nightstands. There’s a fitness center, pool, and intimate Codage spa. (Book ahead for the “haute-couture” massage—it’s fantastic.)

At the bottom of Père-Lachaise, this sweet tavern serves a tight menu of tapas and Catalan wines. It’s worth crossing town for the lush and intimate cobblestone courtyard, where we see ourselves spending long summer afternoons eating grilled octopus and French-fry patatas bravas.

If you’d like to experience classic Parisian bistro food—escargot, duck à l’orange, cordon bleu, foie gras, eggs mayonnaise, frog legs, and more—dodge the tourist traps near the Eiffel Tower and aim straight for Paul Chêne. The food here is excellent and the service is personal and warm. (Often, the owner Harold Chêne will serve you himself.) Don’t skip the orange cognac liqueur, which they make in house based on an old family recipe. The restaurant only has a handful of tables, and they always book out; make reservations by phone and well in advance.

From Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, Boubalé—“my little darling” in Yiddish—serves incredible Ashkenazi food with a twist. We love the classic pierogi potatoes, schnitzel, entrecôte, and the herb salad, but unexpected items like tuna sashimi drizzled with a strawberry sorbet, soy sauce, and olive oil and finished with crunchy dried chives are just as delicious. Book a seat at the chef’s counter to watch all the behind-the-scenes preparation.

The name “snack bar” is misleading; this cozy neighborhood spot is a full-blown natural wine bar with dim lighting and an excellent dinner menu, which changes frequently. Think mussels in harissa bouillon, crispy gochujang chicken wings, tomatoes in lemon caper sauce, and fresh spring asparagus, cooked perfectly.

It would be silly to go to Paris for a smashburger—so prioritize accordingly—but Dumbo does them really well. Expect the classic fixings: American cheese, extra-crispy French fries, and Heinz ketchup, for here or to go.

This little bistro is popular for good wine, a contemporary menu of well-executed small plates, and terrace seating that’s especially lovely on a summer evening. It draws lively and youngish crowd on weekends.

Furia’s tacos are solidly the best in Paris. There are just six on the menu—including shiitake al pastor, cauliflower tempura, slow-roasted pulled pork, or tuna and shoestring fries. All delicious, although the fresh corn tortillas might be the real highlight. Grab a seven-euro glass—or a 35-euro bottle—from the well-curated list of natural wines and finish the night off with an order of flan and ice cream. Furia doesn’t take reservations, and it gets packed; come early.

The tasting menu at Minore might baffle you at first glance. But by the time you finish your first course, you’ll wonder why you haven’t seen black mullet paired with strawberries before. Minore’s inventive menu is the work of chef Katsuaki Okiyama, whose previous restaurant, Abri, firmly kicked off a wave of Japanese-French dining in Paris. The cocktails here are just as surprising and wonderful as the food, thanks to Okiyama’s partner, bartender Hugo Cobe. Try the margarita, made with wasabi, passionfruit, and cherry vinegar.

Ojii pulls off unforgettable Japanese fine dining in a slinky, ‘70s-inspired boîte. They do white-tablecloth in a sexy way, and it’s great for date night: Spend the night eating caviar tuna nigiri and sipping sake cocktails made with sobacha, yuzu, or plum wine.

The crown jewel of Cheval Blanc’s culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude. Chef Arnaud Donckele fuses classic French dishes from Normandy and Paris with Mediterranean inspiration. The meat and fish here are great, but the sauces, creams, and broths steal the show. Reservations are difficult to get and worth booking your whole trip around.

Chef Assaf Granit has become known for flavorful Mediterranean food and good vibes. His fourth Paris restaurant, Tekés, is the kind of place you could bring anyone, for any reason, and know you’ll have a fantastic time. Expect open-fire vegetarian cooking—perhaps grilled leeks, beetroot kabobs, za’atar and garlic galettes—in an airy space with high ceilings. The music is always killer, the vibe celebratory, and the service energetic and personable.

While you can get a delicious lunch or dinner here (plus 360-views and the mirrored Olafur Eliasson installation The Seeing City), the real reason to visit is drinks and dancing; at 11pm, the restaurant transforms into a buzzy nightclub. Set on the top two floors of the SO/ Paris hotel, the club’s leather booths and 70s-disco vibe draws a chic fashionable crowd. Even if you don’t need a cigarette break, go out on the terrace to see the Eiffel Tower sparkle from afar.

Donna is right down the street from the Centre Pompidou, so you can stop in after your museum visit to chat about Mondrian, Matisse, and Duchamp over a glass of natural wine. But this bar is worth going out of your way for, too: The wine list is tightly curated, the food creative, the crowd lively, and the playlist consistently good. Wander up to the second floor for a quieter, more intimate space.

As far as we know, Folderol is the first of its kind: a natural wine bar slash ice cream shop. You order at the counter—there’s always a line—to get a glass of whatever the sommelier recommends and a scoop off the ice cream menu, which changes daily. Kids are welcome.

This teeny ice cream spot specializes in Asian-inspired flavors like pandan, kinako, soy sauce, hojicha tea, and White Rabbit candy—you can order a scoop in a cone, cup, or milkshake, or in mochi or as an affogato. Prioritize the house specialty: panko-encrusted fried ice cream sprinkled with toppings—maybe black sesame seeds, matcha, or popcorn. Café Isaka also has a strong menu of coffee and teas, including ube, peanut, and Thai milk tea.

When you step into this specialty tea boutique, the first thing you notice is how good it smells. Follow your nose: Sniff whole-flower teas in stone goblets, open the bulk jars and take a whiff, and pull out the pretty drawers in the wall, which hold teas with names like jardins suspendus (“hanging gardens”). You can’t sample the teas on site, but the shopkeeper will help you pick something to take home.

I/O Café—named for the on/off buttons on a coffee machine—is a simple spot to pick up a cup of specialty coffee from Danish roaster La Cabra.

The team behind the pâtisserie Mamiche opened this takeaway lunch shop just around the corner from their location near the Canal Saint-Martin, serving sandwich stand-bys—ham and cheese, pan con tomate, etc.—as well as little pizzas and side salads. Opt for one of the combos: You can get a sandwich, drink, and dessert for 11 euros, which isn’t a bad price for the neighborhood.

Following in the footsteps of third-wave coffee shops Noir and Ten Belles, indie roaster Momus aims to elevate the standard of coffee in Paris. Founder Lionel Giraud—former artistic director of Chaumet and alumnus of Cartier and Courrèges—focuses on environmentally conscious sourcing, complex flavor, and beautiful presentation. (Each box of coffee is elegantly packaged; they would make great hostess gifts.) The Momus shop is more boutique than café, but the knowledgeable baristas are happy to make you an espresso from their vast collection of beans.

Fauve is a spa dedicated to hair. The hair on your head, yes—they offer a massage that aims to revitalize the scalp and boost shine. But also eyebrows (their brow treatment focuses on relieving tension around the eyes) and body hair (removal, specifically, by wax and laser).

If you’re lucky enough to land an in-person appointment with face massage specialist Jeanne Casimir, you’ll leave with visibly lifted and invigorated skin. Casimir takes up residency at the Bon Marché for a week at a time, and she makes house calls. If you can’t meet her IRL, enroll in her self-massage class, which takes place online.

Clients like Rihanna and Naomi Campbell leave sessions with facialist Sophie Carbonari looking sculpted and luminous. Go to her chic studio at the Palais-Royal for some serious pampering—lymphatic drainage, acupressure, and Japanese Kobido are just a few of the massage therapies she uses. “The idea with face massage is to get energy flowing and to support circulation,” she says. “Stimulating the muscles helps refresh the skin.” We love her ebullient energy, magic hands, and the custom botanical blends she mixes up for clients’ skin.

This pretty and intimate studio maintains a calendar of movement classes—vinyasa and hatha yoga, Pilates, and stretching—plus breathwork and sound baths. There’s also a private treatment room for lymphatic massage, Reiki, hypnosis, and naturopathic consultations.