Oh My Cream

Cheval Blanc’s 72 spacious rooms and suites occupy what was once the south end of La Samaritaine, one of Paris’s great department stores, and the hotel retains much of the building’s original Art Deco character. (Samaritaine, also now under LVMH ownership, continues to operate next door.) Rooms on the higher floors enjoy views of more distant monuments; from the terrace garden on the rooftop, guests get all 360 degrees, sweeping from the Eiffel Tower to Sacré Cœur. The mostly-subterranean Dior spa is complete with six lush treatment rooms, a tiled indoor pool that looks out over the Seine, and a hammam, sauna, and snow shower, which is exactly what you think it is. The crown jewel of their culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude; reservations are difficult to snatch and worth booking your whole trip around.

Built in 1928, this opulent, eight-story hotel—just steps from the Champs Elysée—is pretty much the gold-standard for city-based, luxury hotels. It’s never a bargain, but if your budget can support the splurge, there’s really no better place to stay. Besides the lavishly-appointed rooms, the service is superb, the restaurant boasts three Michelin-stars, and the location is hard to beat.

Located at the upscale cross section of Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, the Hotel Amastan offers a surprisingly secluded getaway from the streets below, especially if you book a room with a furnished balcony overlooking the leafy garden. The magic here is in the thoughtful, often exquisite design details, like blue herringbone parquet walls and a two-story bookshelf packed with design titles and curios. Plus, the adjacent Pop-In space features rotating art, design, and fashion collaborations from around the world.

A delight for the design lover, the Hotel Bachaumont is full of reverence to its Art Deco roots, with modern twists on traditional patterns and furniture. While the beautifully turned-out rooms are cozily petite, the central location right in the Marais and the buzzing, modern bistro-style restaurant downstairs make up for it.

At Hôtel Belleval, the floral theme is obvious (the hallways are done in contrasting floral carpeting and wallpaper) but not overwhelming (the occasional petal-patterned cushion or upholstered armchair, the odd framed print of a rose or lily), just enough to pay homage to the botanist the hotel is dedicated to. All fifty-two guest rooms feel like a breath of fresh air with their elegant navy walls, floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the rooftops of Paris, and beautifully outfitted bathrooms. The hotel restaurant is refreshingly low-key with a natural, mostly organic menu that is the perfect antidote to too many plates of steak-frites. Additional perks are the interior courtyard which feels like a secret garden in the middle of the city and the library—a godsend for the traveler who needs to mix work with play.

Saturday nights are for Hôtel Costes, when as many tables as possible are packed into the courtyard and it feels like every young hedonist in Paris is drinking spicy margaritas and taking in la vie en rose with open arms. More (indoor) tables of revelers wrap around the inner court, and it’s easy to see why. The atmosphere is electric, the décor—velvets, brocades, lots and lots of tassels—is sumptuous, the menu is full of decadent hits, and the air smells like roses and musk. The entire ground floor is lit almost exclusively with candles, and while you can’t tell your knife from your fork, it adds to the allure. Guest rooms are some of the most lavish in the city (others being at Lutetia and the Ritz), done up exclusively in red velvet and antique wallpaper. If you can tear yourself away from the basement pool and spa, Place Vendôme and the Louvre are but a few steps away.

This iconic palace, right on the Place de la Concorde, was commissioned by Louis XV in the 18th century and has served as a government office, a private home (to several French aristocrats, including Marie Antoinette), and finally a hotel in the early 1900s. Rosewood took over in 2013, and a stay here comes with all the bells and whistles the brand is known for: luxurious amenities, great restaurants, and phenomenal service. Every room has a butler who can help you with tasks both big and small: dinner reservations, or a piping-hot bath, drawn right on time for when you get home.

This elegantly restored hotel is a mere five minutes from Paris’s center of gravity, the Champs-Élysées, which really means it’s five minutes from everything. The first thing to note is that there is an actual hammam in the basement. After a long day of sightseeing, a few laps in the pool followed by a steam is a healing balm for exhausted feet and sore muscles. Aesthetically, the Art Deco influence is quietly done and hidden in the details, like the lamps, the restrained use of marble (and the not-so-restrained use of stripes to beautiful results), pretty velvet upholstery, even the occasional in-room porthole. Unbeatable location aside, the attentive staff and excellent service catapult this new hotel to the top of the short list of excellent places to stay. The adorably small hotel bar and the sexy dining room make leaving that much harder.

In Paris’s Little Tokyo, at the end of Rue Sainte-Anne, Hotel Hana feels like a cozy and refined refuge from the bustling streets outside. The 26 guest rooms are designed to combine Belle Epoque glamour with Japanese minimalism, and the results are soft, feminine, and totally relaxing. Hanabi, the bar and restaurant, is moody and lush. There’s a small spa, too, with just two treatment rooms and a pool that’s better for soaking than swimming.

Hotel Madame Rêve draws a particularly cool and fashionable crowd. The restaurants are a big part of the draw: The one downstairs, Kitchen by Madame Rêve, serves contemporary French food in a high-ceilinged space that feels like old-school New York, and the one upstairs, La Plûme, is a buzzy spot for late-night drinks, French-Japanese food, and views of the cathedral next door. There’s a rooftop cocktail bar, too, which you can reserve for private parties. The 82 guest rooms are well-designed, clad in warm wood and golden yellows, many of them with courtyard-facing terraces or views of household-name monuments. The whole place runs dimly-lit, which could be sexy or frustrating depending on your perspective.

Like other Hoxton hotels, this one is designed with the working traveler in mind. Guest rooms run on the small side, but they're cute enough to feel cozy rather than cramped. Each room has a desk. There are long communal tables in the shared spaces—and even at the bar, opening a laptop is totally acceptable. (That's uncommon in Paris.) And the baristas in the lobby don't bat an eye when you ask for oat milk.

Smack in the middle of Paris’ Golden Triangle (Avenue Montaigne, the Champs-Élysées, and the Grand Palais), Martin Margiela—known and loved for his very specific and very conceptual spin on fashion—doesn’t immediately come to mind as a likely candidate for a hotel interior decorator. After all, his namesake boutiques tend to be impossible to find and packed with thrilling—though stark—design flourishes. But there’s nothing cold about Le Maison Champs-Elysée: It’s cool and other-worldly, but its architectural moments (neon signs, chairs draped to resemble ghosts, a rhomboid concierge desk) never compromise on comfort.

At La Réserve, in a building once occupied by Napoleon’s stepbrother, references to the Belle Époque would be hard to miss: Expect gilded columns, heavy drapes, and velvet tufting...everywhere. The bedrooms and suites—there are only 40—are very fin de siècle French, but more restrained in style than the common spaces. Swiss anti-aging clinic Nescens runs the spa. Executive chef Jérôme Banctel oversees the two restaurants within the hotel. Le Gabriel, the superior of the two, earned a third Michelin star in 2024.

Le Royal Monceau, originally opened in a Hausmannian building in 1928, was fully reimagined by designer Philippe Starck in the early 2000s—and in a stroke of genius, it honors France’s intellectual and artistic history without getting bogged down by it. The curved-glass canopy above the front door references Hector Guimard; the mirror-encased lobby calls in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles. And the whole place is packed with art. (In fact, there’s an art gallery, an art concierge, an art bookstore, and a 99-seat cinema all on site.) The guest rooms are spacious and polished, but more subdued than the rest of the property; the bathrooms are stocked with plush towels and Clarins amenities. The restaurants are varied—there’s contemporary Japanese by chef Nobu Matsuhisa, a Michelin-starred Italian restaurant in a sunny conservatory, a terrace brunch spot, Raffles’s signature Long Bar, and a private cigar lounge.

Being that it’s a Mandarin Oriental, you can be assured that this is one of Paris’ finest hotel options. A lush inner courtyard, Thierry Marx restaurants, and sleek, Asian-inspired rooms that are blessedly spacious for Paris are givens, but the Diptyque products and Frette robes make any stay even better. Plus, there’s a spa, pool, and sizable gym.

Just around the corner from the Jardin des Tuileries, the doorway to Hotel Nolinksi is so inconspicuous that you could walk past it a hundred times and miss it. That’s Nolinski’s charm. The hotel is discreet and quietly elegant. The grey-toned, Art Deco–style rooms are significantly bigger than the average Paris guest room and outfitted with modern art and sculptures. The bar off the lobby has a grand piano and an atmosphere so relaxing, you could be in someone’s living room. Not to mention, many of the major Parisian attractions are just a few steps away.

Tucked away in the quiet and leafy 16th near the Champs-Élysées, the Saint James, located in a century-old château, offers a jolt of luxury with its palatial interior, glorious garden, and Michelin-starred restaurant. With its patterned carpets and explosions of color—both in the lobby and in each individually decorated room—it can feel a bit like a country retreat on steroids. This is a Relais & Châteaux property, so expect all the traditional bells and whistles.

When Ritz Paris opened in 2016 after four years of renovations—the first closure in the hotel’s storied history—loyalists appreciated that the designers kept the hotel’s charming, traditional style firmly intact (if a bit spruced up), down to the grand window treatments, gilded frames, and copious chandeliers. As ever, the rooms are exceptionally luxurious: Each is outfitted with a marble bathroom, generous windows, and famously soft sheets, with many boasting antique furnishings. The hotel is also home to three restaurants, two of which now have retractable glass ceilings on their patios: L’Espadon, for a traditional, white-tablecloth French dining experience, including breakfast and lunch; Bar Vendôme, a moody brasserie with red velvet booths; and the Ritz Bar, a more casual spot with shared plates and an Art Deco design palette. The hotel is home to a stunning fitness center—also available to private club members—where guests can swim laps in a gorgeous tiled pool or sign up for a day of pampering in the Chanel spa. But we’re probably most excited about the reopening of Bar Hemingway, the old author’s historic haunt that’s now famous for some of the world’s best cocktails.

Alain Ducasse’s Aux Lyonnais is one of those traditional French dining experiences that manages to deftly skirt stuffiness. The old-world façade still has the original sign from the restaurant’s 1914 debút, and the belle époque interior (mirrored walls, intricate tile floors, and an original wooden staircase) feels straight out of central casting. The menu changes seasonally, but you can expect delicious fare reminiscent of a classic bistro in Lyon.

From Michelin-starred chef Assaf Granit, Boubalé—“my little darling” in Yiddish—serves incredible Ashkenazi food with a twist. We love the classic pierogi potatoes, schnitzel, entrecôte, and the herb salad, but unexpected items like tuna sashimi drizzled with a strawberry sorbet, soy sauce, and olive oil and finished with crunchy dried chives are just as delicious. Book a seat at the chef’s counter to watch all the behind-the-scenes preparation.

Since the 1920’s, Caviar Kaspia has been offering a luxurious, old-world Russian experience—with a beautiful view of the Eglise de la Madeleine. Plush, and paneled in wood, there aren’t many surprises in the dining room: You’ll find top-shelf caviar, blinis, champagne, and loads of vodka. Be sure to call ahead for a table, as the restaurant no longer takes online reservations.

Chez George is hyper traditional, a little overpriced, and exactly the kind of place where one wants to eat dinner in Paris. A classic bistro in every sense, down to the mirrored walls and too-small tables. As can be expected, steak frites and boeuf bourguignon is the way to go. Unlike some of the other old-world bistros in Paris, the food here is legitimately very good and the atmosphere delivers every time.

Situated right off the Avenue Montaigne, this tiny bistro is laid out like an old-school dining car with cozy booths, vintage luggage racks, and mirrored walls in lieu of windows. As for the rest of the decor, expect to see lots of original Art Deco elements (stained glass, frieze ceiling) left over from a time when Savy was a Jazz Age hotspot. The cuisine is traditional French (foie gras, lentil soup, andouillette sausage) and the portions are generous.

The chef’s daily market visits direct the brief all-organic, Italian-inflected menu at this fittingly tiny restaurant (only 15 seats). Expect dishes like French beans with octopus and wild mushroom spaghetti.

Named for their son, Ferdinand, owners Alicia and Jacques Fontanier decorated this tiny spot with artifacts and ephemera from his childhood. It’s a nice touch, as is the cheeseburger, which is known as one of Paris’s best. This spot is particularly big with a fashion crowd.

Nantes-born Gregory Marchand, who cooked under both Jamie Oliver and Danny Meyer (he earned his nickname “Frenchie” while cooking with Oliver), offers a subtle worldly perspective on classic French cooking via a tiny set menu (145 euros per person). Reservations are hard to get, though Marchand’s walk-in-only venture, Frenchie bar à vins, is an option should you fail to land a table, and there’s also his Italian restaurant down the street, Altro Frenchie.

After a week in Paris, when it’s time to lay off the butter and goose fat, we head here. It’s not the sort of restaurant that’s going to change your life, but their seaweed salad and sashimi is solidly decent. And with two sleek and spacious floors, there’s room enough for everyone. At night, when the lights get dimmer and the music louder, it can get a bit scene-y.

Rue Sainte-Anne in the 1st is the city’s version of Little Tokyo: There’s a seemingly endless row of noodle shops and small Japanese joints. Of all the options, Kunitoraya is our favorite, thanks to its multi-varied udons. There’s a more upscale location around the corner on rue Villedo, but this outpost is more casual and rarely requires a wait.

Anne-Sophie Pic’s flagship restaurant in Valence has three Michelin stars, and the world expects La Dame de Pic to land the same rating. (It currently has one star, which it won in 2024.) Pic is ultra-talented, and her food feels rare and elegant. The high-concept menu here revolves around fragrance profiles—Pic partnered with Phillip Bousseton, the nose from Takasago—which makes for an unusual and unabashedly sensual experience.

This quaint little restaurant serves excellent French food—cassoulet, steak tartare, and chocolate cake—in an unstuffy Art Nouveau dining room. The adjoining shop, complete with ham hocks hanging from the rafters, has a killer selection of French wines, cheeses, and other specialty items.

With the style of a ’40s British lounge, this is the perfect respite after a morning haul through the Louvre. They have a great value prix-fixe menu, but we usually come for a snack, savored over an international paper on one of the library room’s overstuffed leather couches. Creaky wooden floors, a constant stream of jazz, and a well-heeled clientele make any pitstop here feel like a dignified affair.

This historic restaurant—it’s the oldest in Paris, actually—has taken up the same spot in the Palais-Royal since 1784. While it’s been thoroughly modernized, the majority of beautiful neoclassical embellishments are intact, and the tables are still marked with the names of literary legends (Victor Hugo, John Paul-Sartre, Voltaire) who frequented the spot way back when. The restaurant has lost all three of its Michelin stars, and chef Guy Martin pivoted to a more bistro-style menu, but we've heard it's still stellar.

Lunch at Le Petit Vendôme is an education in casual Parisian classics, from foie gras and escargot to soupe à l’oignon and pan-fried tartare. Bookmark this one for later, when you’re trying to dodge the tourist traps and every French menu starts to look the same; this is the good stuff, promise.

It’s admittedly scene-y, but the tiny Le Stresa is also undeniably fun: Red velvet banquettes, a sea of ornate mirrors, and piles of pasta make it all even better. Like many restaurants in Paris, it’s closed on the weekends.

Lina's is a chain but you wouldn't know it, biting into their famous turkey club. Fresh and delicious, it’s the perfect inexpensive meal to have while walking through the streets of Paris. There's also a location in the 2nd and on Boulevard Malesherbes.

While this isn’t our first stop when we descend on Paris—and arguably should be skipped if you have limited time in the city—this Jean-Georges, Asian-inspired French restaurant is reliably good. And the Christian Liagre-designed space is elegant, without ever compromising comfort.

The crown jewel of Cheval Blanc’s culinary program is three-Michelin-starred Plénitude. Chef Arnaud Donckele fuses classic French dishes from Normandy and Paris with Mediterranean inspiration. The meat and fish here are great, but the sauces, creams, and broths steal the show. Reservations are difficult to get and worth booking your whole trip around.

There's a certain sexiness to hotel restaurants, and Michelin-starred Pur' at the Park Hyatt oozes it. Chef Jean-François Rouquette has put together a menu of flawless interpretations of classic French dishes, served in the refined, many-columned dining room. For a blow-out, completely seasonal meal in Paris, Pur' delivers—drink your wine at the table and save a post-dinner digestif for the elegant Park Hyatt bar.

Chef Assaf Granit has become known for flavorful Mediterranean food and good vibes. His fourth Paris restaurant, Tekés, is the kind of place you could bring anyone, for any reason, and know you’ll have a fantastic time. Expect open-fire vegetarian cooking—perhaps grilled leeks, beetroot kabobs, za’atar and garlic galettes—in an airy space with high ceilings. The music is always killer, the vibe celebratory, and the service energetic and personable.

When American couple Braden Perkins and Laura Adrian moved to Paris, they didn’t start with a restaurant: Instead, they cultivated their reputation through a series of under-the-radar dinner party-style seatings hosted out of their apartment. Called Hidden Kitchen, you could only land a reservation by booking online. The concept—and cooking—was so popular, the duo opened a permanent location, called Verjus, in 2010, situated in a small passageway across from the Palais Royal. It’s distinctly New American and it’s delicious. If you can’t stomach the prices (the tasting menu is 98 euros), hit the bar à vins next door.

This moody, leather-accented bar is famous for being an old haunt of so many Paris creatives—in addition to Hemingway himself, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Cole Porter, and Gary Cooper were all regulars. Legend has it that Marcel Proust ordered a cold beer from here on his deathbed. Colin Peter Field, who ran Bar Hemingway for decades and arguably made it the destination that it is, is no longer there. However, his deputy, Anne-Sophie Prestail, took over in 2023 and has continued the tradition of deliciously stiff drinks and rose garnishes.

In true speakeasy fashion, this very-adored spot is behind an unmarked door, on a dimly lit, pedestrian-only alley. But beyond the appeal of being impossible-to-find, Parisians really come because they love the artful cocktails. It gets crowded after 11 and is generally packed on weekends; there are now outposts in New York City and London as well.

This first-come-first-serve wine bar is a tough seat for good reason: The small plates are crafted from superb ingredients, and the wine list is reasonably priced. You can usually snag a spot in the first wave by going early in the week, and arriving 20 minutes before the opening.

With a now-iconic interior that's dripping in red velvet, Hôtel Costes is one of those spots that has perfected its aesthetic—which, of course, extends to the music. It can get dark and smoky inside, so head out to the enclosed terrace (you can still hear whatever the DJ is spinning inside), which is equally great for either an afternoon glass of wine or an after-dinner cocktail. Plus, the people-watching is always fabulous.

Rivié, one of the two bars in the Hoxton, has a wonderful brasserie, a lovely outdoor garden, and relaxing little nooks with armchairs and nice lighting. Settle onto a velvet barstool, order a glass of champagne or a dirty martini, chat with the friendly bartenders, and order plates of onion rings and tartare on toast as the evening slips into night.

Opulent to the max, Le Bar at the George V is one of our favorite places to tuck into a martini: It’s pricey, but it has atmosphere in spades, along with a well-heeled crowd. It's one of these places that feel like time just stops...or maybe it's just the wine.

Tucked away beneath its parent restaurant upstairs (the excellent, prix-fixe Verjus) this more casual bar à vin lives in a cool vaulted cave and serves innovative small plates. Bonus: The wine list is top notch.

Paris is one of those special cities that enthusiastically clings on to the more traditional, elegant remnants of the past—Angelina is an embodiment of this policy. A classic tearoom that first opened in 1903, the over-the-top Belle Epoque interiors create the ambiance for a truly decadent hour (or two) of sweet indulgence. The sculptural cakes and classic patisserie that line the glass cases are the perfect accompaniment to the main event: Angelina's world-renowned hot chocolate. We recommend the Old Style Hot Chocolate, made from a blend of cocoa beans whipped into hot milk and cream for the smoothest, slightly sweet, slightly bitter cup. Angelina also serves up well-executed classic French dishes like croque-madame and quiche Lorraine, but really it's the chocolate—and the people-watching—that makes this Paris institution a favorite with locals and tourists alike.

This teeny ice cream spot specializes in Asian-inspired flavors like pandan, kinako, soy sauce, hojicha tea, and White Rabbit candy—you can order a scoop in a cone, cup, or milkshake, or in mochi or as an affogato. Prioritize the house specialty: panko-encrusted fried ice cream sprinkled with toppings—maybe black sesame seeds, matcha, or popcorn. Café Isaka also has a strong menu of coffee and teas, including ube, peanut, and Thai milk tea.

Whether you’re a baker or not, G. Detou is worth a visit. The walls are stacked (literally) from floor to ceiling with specialty baking ingredients for even the most ambitious baking project: artisian flower, specialty oils, metallic cake decorations, and even edible flowers. Their selection of dark chocolate is one of the best in the city.

Thanks to loads of press and a swift global expansion in 2005 (there are now outposts in New York, London, Lebanon, Japan, Sweden, Hong Kong, Brazil, Los Angeles, and more), the Ladurée celadon green is almost as iconic as Tiffany blue or Hermès orange. It all started in 1862 at 16 rue Royale, when writer Louis Ernest Ladurée opened a pastry shop. Though macarons had been kicking around France since the sixteenth century, when Catherine de Medici introduced them from Italy, Ladurée’s grandson revolutionized the concept in 1930 by using a bit of ganache to create a macaron sandwich. Beyond sweets, Ladurée's dinner service is great, with a kid-friendly menu that adults can enjoy, too. Although the original Ladurée is a fixture on the Champs-Elysées, there are multiple locations throughout the city to enjoy.

It was only a matter of time before the food truck craze struck Paris. After all, Parisians are already accustomed to street-side crepe vendors. Pioneered by a Californian, Le Camion Qui Fume revolves around burgers of every variety (including veggie and pork) and the corresponding frites. The French are huge fans, so be prepared to wait around forty minutes; the truck's roving location is posted to its website. If that's not your style, they've also opened a few permanent locations around the city.

Maisie Café brings a taste of LA juice culture to Paris. The brainchild of former luxury exec turned wellness enthusiast Isabella Capece, Maisie Café has an all-vegan, organic menu that reflects the more health-conscious direction many new Parisian spots are heading in. Breakfast is light, with acai bowls, granola, juices, and shakes. Lunch is pure West Coast in the sense that most of the dishes are bowl-based: brown rice or soba noodles topped with the freshest veggies, nuts, and seeds. The fashion pack who hit Paris for the shows are big fans of Maisie's cures—hot and cold soups, elixirs, and broths for every ailment, all available for delivery. If you do choose to sit in, the interior feels like a balmy escape to Miami with tropical-print walls and pastel seating.

While there’s no shortage of third-wave coffee roasters in Paris, Noir is among the best, and their cafés among the most abundant. You’ll find them across the city in pretty, modern storefronts. This one in the 8th arrondissement is convenient if you're staying near the Champs-Elysées, and there's a really good one on the Île Saint-Louis, down the street from Berthillon.

A good part of the local population is of the opinion that Pierre Hermé makes the best macarons in the city. As for the éclairs, croissants, and cakes? You'll just have to do the taste-testing for yourself. This particular outpost is massive, with a sumptuous Art Deco interior to match the contents of the pastry cases. A pretty box of Hermé’s delicately-flavored macarons veloutés (essentially meringue-like macaroons stuffed with a creamy filling) never fails to impress and makes for the perfect, easily-packed gift to bring back home.

Proof that treat trends are pretty consistent, the shop Stohrer was founded in 1730 as the official pâtissier for Louis XV. The same cream-stuffed éclairs, delicate crème Anglaise tarts studded with berries, and rose macarons have been devoured by the French for the last 300 years. The bakery is theatrically beautiful, with glass-paneled walls (giving patrons near 360-degree views of all the sweets), chandeliers, and a full frescoed ceiling—an especially delightful experience for little ones.

While its décor is colorful and eye-catching, the shoes and bags here skew more toward the understated. It’s an interesting mix of French and American brands with an eye toward lowkey luxe. Laurence Dacade boots mingle with K. Jacques and Ancient Greek Sandals, along with a handful of streamlined satchels from brands like Alexandre Mareuil and Cahu.

Though it’s well located on Rue Saint-Honoré, this is the sort of spot that’s easy to walk right by. Inside it’s dimly lit, cloister-like, and achingly cool, complete with rickety, slightly off-kilter shelves that sag under the weight of Astier de Villatte’s ceramic tableware. Made from black terra-cotta clay and then finished in the brand’s signature milky white, these perfectly imperfect dishes are the hallmark of some of the best-dressed tables we know. You’ll also find the house line of geometric-print, gold-rimmed notebooks (made by the last master printer in Paris) and the gorgeously old-fashioned candle and incense collections, along with a handful of oddities, like glassware cast in the shape of skulls and stout little teapots.

If you have the time for a bespoke, engraved stationery order, you can’t do much better than Benneton. While it’s helmed by a woman who can be a bit gruff (it’s been in the family since 1880), the gorgeous wares make the whole experience worthwhile. They also offer really pretty and simple leather goods, like pocket books and card cases.

Brigitte Tanaka is known for its embroidered organza bags: totes, pencil cases, phone holders, clutches, water bottle and wine carriers, travel pouches, baguette totes...you get the picture. They look delicate, but they’re totally sturdy and meant to replace single-use plastic.

Beautifully turned out bras in the finest satins and lace are mainstays at this little red-and-gold boutique, which has been focused on corsetry since the end of the 19th century. It’s all deeply refined and restrained, which makes the pieces all the sexier. They also make made-to-measure custom lingerie, which just might be the ultimate luxury.

Like many of its fashion-centric brethren, Céline launched in the '40s, though with a singular focus on bespoke leather shoes for children. And then it all changed: Céline branched into womenswear in the ’60s, rose to prominence under Michael Kors in the '90s, and is now an established staple, loved for its streamlined, modern shapes.

Coco Chanel opened her first boutique in the 1st, back in 1910, and it’s still the best place to see the full expression of the brand. Spanning three lushly-appointed, black and white floors, the cap-toed ballet flats, quilted bags, and tweedy jackets are all connected by a sweeping central staircase. If you can’t make it to the flagship, there are many more locations across Paris, plus ample representation in Paris’s three main department stores.

Established in 1838 by Joseph-Christophe Charvet—the son of the man responsible for Napoleon’s wardrobe—this bespoke shirtmaker has been outfitting royalty ever since. Charvet pioneered the concept of custom tailoring (and the shirt collar as we know it today). To this day, they offer exquisite shirting, as well as men’s and women’s pajamas, ties, and scarves.

Launched by Egyptian-born Gaby Aghion in the ’50s, Chloé skipped the formality of haute couture in favor of going straight to off-the-rack ready-to wear, a new concept at the time. Perennially feminine (a hallmark the brand has never deviated from), the brand became big under the watchful eye of Karl Lagerfeld in the ’60s and ’70s. There is another location in the 8th.

Sure, you’ll find Christian Louboutin’s full range of red-soled stilettos and studded loafers here, but you’ll also find unparalleled customer service. They maintain a strict 1:1 ratio of salespeople to clients, and while this might seem like it would result in helicopter-like hovering, it doesn’t. Instead, they swoop in only when you have a question or need a size. There are numerous locations across Paris, along with in-department store options.

In a warm white gallery lit by club-inspired spotlights, slip on a reedition of Courrèges’s iconic vinyl jacket or flip through racks of retro-cool ready-to-wear, which strike a balance between ’60s mod and clean-lined minimalism.

Tucked away underground beneath the Louvre (there's a mini mall down there with the Mona Lisa, including an Apple Store) is the only Delfonics store outside of Japan. The brand specializes in precise, beautiful, and modern office supplies and stationery, like the perfect pen, stapler, and notebook. It also does fashion collabs, like Delfonics for Carven.

Since 1820, E. Dehillerin has been outfitting the kitchens of Paris with copper pots, paring knives, whisks—and a million other ingenious gadgets nobody ever knew they needed. It is a huge store and an incredible resource, though come with full pockets (and plenty of room in your suitcase). They also sell online and ship globally.

A rolling ladder and packed floor-to-ceiling shelves underscore the library-like nature of this storied spice shop: Here, you'll find an encyclopedia worth of salts and peppers, mustards, chutneys, infused oils, and any number of spices. The main draw, though, are the Roellinger house mixes, like the Mauritius-inspired Poudre d'Or, which combines coriander, turmeric, West Indian bay, and unripe mango powder. Since no cookbook calls for this specific mixture, they make pairing suggestions (oysters and shellfish), and even offer links to recipes for those of us who are easily intimidated chefs.

While there are Eric Bompard stores scattered across Paris, we like the one on Rue François best. The cashmere knits come in an astounding range of colors, styles, and sizes, and they're well-priced.

Helmed by Riccardo Tisci, Givenchy is one of the French fashion houses that manages to straddle multiple aesthetics without any brand confusion. Floor-skimming, gorgeously draped gowns blend seamlessly with crystal-studded tanks and white linen pants We like the accessories best, though, like engraved silver chains and boxy architectural totes.

While Goyard was established as a trunkmaker and packer in 1792, it was a relative secret until about a decade ago, when the world at large decided that they couldn’t live without Goyard’s signature thin-strapped, hand-painted canvas totes. Available in a rainbow of colors, the luggage here literally lasts forever: It’s all monogrammable, and you can add stripes and symbols as well. While it’s available at a few Paris addresses, the flagship has been in its Rue Saint-Honoré home since 1834, making it an easy favorite.

For over 40 years, Michel Pierre has transformed medicinal plants into herbal infusions, nutritional supplements, essential oils, and cosmetics. The staff will prescribe based on your ailments, though there's plenty of lovely stuff here that is more preventative then curative.

Founded in the late 19th-century, Jeanne Lanvin’s fashion house is one of the world’s longest-lasting, thanks to a recent jolt back into the mainstream by designer Alber Elbaz. The perfumes have always been iconic, as are the columnar dresses in muted pastel tones (and now, of course, the elastic edged ballet flats).

The Samaritaine department store began as a tiny boutique in 1870 on Rue de Pont-Neuf. It was acquired by luxury behemoth LVMH in 2001 and after a lengthy restoration, the seven-floor Art Nouveau landmark reopened in 2021. There's an expansive glass ceiling, wraparound peacock frescoes by Francis Jourdain (his father, Frantz Jourdain, was the original architect), enameled lava panels on the façade, and swirling gray wrought iron staircases with gold leaf details...all punctuating next-level shopping. That includes incredible fashion and jewelry, yes, as well as art at Gallery Perrotin, chic souvenirs at LouLou, and caviar sandwiches and customizable bottles of Ruinart from “street" vendors sprinkled throughout the space. The incredible beauty department has a great spa, and the top floor restaurant and bar, Voyage, is fantastic. There’s also a separate entrance to get to the Cheval Blanc hotel. The star secret is the L’Appartement salon, where you can book private styling and shopping appointments.

At age 13, Louis Vuitton Malletier left the rural town of Anchay and made his way, by foot, to Paris, finding work and food along the way (it took him three years). After apprenticing with a box maker and packer, Vuitton managed to land the job of packer and box maker to the Empress of France, and the rest is history. In 1858, Vuitton introduced a rectangular trunk made from lightweight canvas, which is more durable and lighter than leather, revolutionizing the art of packing.

Lined in lush blue velvet, stepping into Lydia Courteille feels a bit like stepping into a music box. It’s a fittingly dream-like backdrop for her handcrafted pieces which take a deep bow to fantasy. Fire opals are set in the maws of lizards, and diamond fireflies sit on carved coral flowers: All of her jewelry is stunningly unusual.

Though Maison Bonnet is still relatively little-known, almost everyone has seen the house’s glasses. After all, this fourth-generation, Maitre d’Art-recognized, family-run business, which was officially established in 1950, has made some of the most iconic frames around. Yves Saint Laurent, Le Corbusier, Jackie Onassis, and Jacques Chirac were all clients. While you won’t be able to pick up a pair at your local optometrist’s office, you can visit their appointment-only Paris outpost, which actually just opened in 2009 (the company operates out of a workshop in Sens, Burgundy). There, a master craftsman will map your entire face, measuring three different angles of your nose, the gap between your temples, the overall structure of your skull, the shape and tenor of your cheekbones and eyes, etc. One pair of glasses requires three visits (the final two can be condensed, for those who are visiting), and while they’re revered for their work in tortoise shell, they do more affordable versions in horn and acetate as well.

Francis Kurkdjian's nose may be responsible for some big blockbuster scents (he created Jean Paul Gaultier's Le Male at the beginning of his career—and then went on to do dozens more scents for pretty much every big fashion house around), but it's his special projects that we love best. He helped artist Sophie Calle bottle the smell of money in 2003, and in 2006 he re-created the scent of Marie Antoinette for an installation at Versailles. It's no surprise that at his namesake gallery-like boutiques in the 1st and 4th arrondissements, things are done a little differently: Perfumes are set against a wall of light, and the offerings go well beyond the traditional. His signature scents infuse everything from incense paper to leather bracelets to home sprays, and his now-famous traveling perfume case is on hand should you require a custom fragrance.

If diagnostic tests are your bag, you'll love Nose's recommendation technology, which uses your perfume history to predict what fragrances and home scents you'll like best. While you can do the test online—and shop an encyclopedia of brands right there—an in-store consultation is inarguably more fun, as you can vet the recommendations in person. If nothing from Miller Harris, Acqua di Parma, Penhaligon's, et al. fits the bill, Nose will whip up a custom scent.

Best known for her felt clutches based on classic books, fashion designer Olympia Le-Tan’s boutique has a kitschy, boudoir-like feel. Along with her now-iconic bags, you’ll find her line of vamp-meets-girlie printed dresses and accessories here, presented against monogrammed pink wallpaper designed by her father, famed illustrator Pierre Le-Tan.

Constructed as a home for Cardinal Richelieu in the 17th century, the Palais Royal has had a colorful, and multi-varied past, housing a handful of royals over the centuries, and taking its turn as the centerpiece of Paris’ social scene. It turned into a shopping complex in 1784, and hosted about 150 places of business, from tea shops to book stores to hair salons and boutiques. Not much has changed in the intervening years: Now, labels like Rick Owens, Acne, and Serge Lutens have taken refuge in this gorgeous arcade, which overlooks stunning gardens. If your budget allows, tuck into a very special dinner at the classic Le Grand Véfour on the northwest corner of the building.

Like its department store brethren, Printemps has been around for centuries. But, it was the first to install elevators (1870’s) and electric lighting (1888). In fact, patrons could see the power plant that made the magic happen behind glass. These days, Printemps is still progressive. There’s an emphasis on luxury here, with shop-in-shops for Chanel, Stella McCartney, and Kenzo.

Rose Repetto’s now-iconic brand is as known for their colorful ballet flats as they are for the shoes that outfit the world’s prima ballerinas. After a revitalization in 2000 and a string of high-profile collaborations with brands like Comme des Garçons, Balenciaga, and Yohji Yamamoto, you can find Repetto flats everywhere (in a trademark, 64-pack of colors), though a visit to the Opera flagship is still really worthwhile.

Artistic Director Gaia Repossi has transformed her family’s old-world institution—which is the official jeweler to the Royal Family of Monaco—into a relevant and modern brand. Ear cuffs, black diamond-studded earrings, rings that span two digits, and collaborations with designers like Alexander Wang may not be the normal provenance of a nearly-century old jewelry house, but the decidedly cool results justify the departure.

Photographer, creative director, filmmaker, makeup artist, parfumier—Serge Lutens is one of those rare souls who seems to make what he wants to make. He got his start with Vogue, before moving on to launch beauty for Christian Dior, and then Shiseido. His photographs have been exhibited at the Guggenheim, his short films have premiered at Cannes, and he created an “olfactory maze” in his hometown of Lilles of scents of his childhood. At his namesake shop in the Palais Royal, you’ll find his gorgeous perfumes, as well as his full makeup range.

French-girl fashion is, in part, about effortlessness. But if you’ve ever tried to look effortless, you know it takes some intention to get there. Sézane makes clothes that embody Parisian je ne sais quoi, from perfectly cut denim to easy-breezy summer dresses.

In a city of incredible florists, whose studios spill out onto the street with buckets of blooms, Une Fleur en Liberté might be the best. Their arrangements are also surprisingly affordable (especially compared to some of the more famous ateliers).

This fantastic little travel bookshop is owned by the major travel agency across the street. While this may seem like a clever sales ploy, that doesn’t detract from the selection. Here you’ll find novels and nonfiction from around the world—some in English—along with maps, city guides, and a considered edit of handsome and practical travel accessories.

Though you'll likely recognize some of the big names here by their signature style, White Bird breaks new designers onto the scene, too. The vibe is low-key and unintimidating, making this a great resource for significant others who need some guidance and are in gift-buying mode.

Erected by Catherine de Medici in 1564 as part of the Tuileries Palace, this public garden has a textured past (it was the hunting grounds of Louix XIII). Now, it's an excellent place to take a long-ish walk, alongside sculptures from Auguste Rodin, Henry Moore, and even Roy Lichtenstein. It's also home to the Jeu de Paume and its collection of contemporary art, along with the Musée de l’Orangerie, which famously houses Monet's Water Lillies.

Located in the Bois de Boulogne, Frank Gehry’s gleaming, some say boat-like structure for the Fondation Louis Vuitton is the latest gem to dot the Parisian architectural landscape. Though Bernard Arnault’s foundation opened late last year to much ado—mostly because of its splashy glass construction—it’s really only now that you get to see the collection. Currently, "The Keys to a Passion," packs a punch with major works of art by Edward Munch, Constantin Brancusi, and Matisse on loan from major institutions around the world. Since opening, the museum has been slowly revealing more of Arnault’s own collection—including contemporary works by Tacita Dean, Wolfgang Tillmans, and Bas Jan Ader—the third stage of which opens next month. The staged reveal makes a welcome excuse to return again and again. Photo: Iwan Baan. Courtesy Fondation Louis Vuitton.

You know the Musée de l’Orangerie because of its collection of massive Monet water lilies in stark-white, oval-shaped rooms. They’re definitely worth sitting in front of for 10, 20, 30 minutes. But after that, venture downstairs: The place is filled with Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings and is quietly one of the best museums in Paris.

The Musée des Arts Décoratifs, occupying the northwest wing of the Louvre, houses a massive collection of furniture, tapestries, ceramics, glassware, sculptures, paintings, and fashion dating from the 13th century to the present. If you’re into history and interior design, you’ll love it. But people really flock here for the temporary exhibitions, which often feature archival collections from iconic fashion houses like Dior, Dries Van Noten, and Iris van Herpen.

In its original 12th-century incarnation, the Louvre was a fortress (you can still see remnants of this down in the crypt). It morphed over the years into a larger and larger palace until Louis XIV decamped to Versailles and left it to house the royal collection (which already included Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa). It didn’t assume its museum status until after the French Revolution, at which point its acquisition pace quickened intensively. The museum has almost 400,000 pieces, of which about 35,000 are on display at any given time. While the crowds queue up around I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid, you can buy advance tickets online. Though it’s theoretically possible to marathon your way through the museum in one swoop, we strongly recommend scattering a few short(er) visits across the length of your stay. If you’re traveling with kids, THATMuse organizes themed treasure hunts through the museum.

The Musée Marmottan Monet, in an Empire-style townhouse in the quiet and residential Passy neighborhood, may not be as flashy as Musée d’Orsay or the Musée de l’Orangerie, but fans of Impressionism and Post-Impressionism will find it delightful. Claude Monet and Berthe Morisot dominate the collection, and paintings by numerous contemporaries and predecessors—including Caillebotte, Corot, Degas, Delacroix, Pissarro, Renoir, Rodin, and Sisley—complement and contextualize their work. Among over 300 Monets, the crown jewel of the collection is the painting from which Impressionism got its name: Impression, Sunrise.

Thanks to a 2012 expansion that took the museum all the way to the bank of the Seine, nearly tripling its original size, the open-plan Palais de Tokyo is one of the best spots in Europe to see contemporary and modern art. The Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris in the eastern wing houses more than 8,000 works of twentieth-century art (Picasso, Matisse, Braque, Delauney, etc.) and opens onto a lovely view of the Eiffel Tower. Complete with a comprehensive children's program, artists-in-residence, opening hours that extend until midnight, an excellent bookstore (distinguished by its chain-link-fence walls), and restaurants (we like Tokyo Eats), the Palais de Tokyo can easily eat up the better part of a day.

The company’s three-story flagship spa is set in a quiet courtyard off the Champs-Élysées, and no two treatments are alike. Instead, skin is meticulously examined with the Skin Instant Lab, which measures moisture, elasticity, pigmentation, and oil production. Next you’re ushered into a gorgeous, all-white treatment room, where a custom regimen of products for the facial is selected.

Australian-born hair stylist David Mallet's impeccable reputation is understandable: His rolodex of devoted editors, celebrities, and designers is deep, plus his army of pros do hair in a gorgeous, sun-washed space that's far from prying eyes. Herringbone floors, gold gilded molding, Eero Saarinen tulip chairs, and an aviary of rare taxidermied birds (white peacocks, ostriches, et al.) are nice touches, but they all play second fiddle to David Mallet's truly transformative cuts and color.

It may be a cliché that Parisians have perfect, perfectly imperfect hair, but it's probably a cliché for good reason. That tousled sensibility is partly because of Delphine and her team, who stand in the shadows behind some of the city's best heads. While the services here are top-notch, there's nothing intimidating about the girlishly glamorous salon, and the menu is well-priced considering the quality.

Clients swear that Joëlle Ciocco’s blend of buccal massage (to stretch and tone facial muscles) and product (her eponymous line of cleansers and serums) will absolutely change your skin. What's truly remarkable is that she's actually a biochemist by trade, so there's real science behind her technique. An appointment with Joëlle is not cheap, but the results are priceless. That said, booking with a member of her team is the next best thing and much easier on the wallet.

Maison Guerlain's perfumes—in all their original, vintage-cut-glass glory—orbit around a giant chandelier on the ground floor here, which is probably the first clue that opulence awaits. Next, you'll notice the gold mosaic tiled walls as you ascend the sweeping staircase to the spa: Established in 1939, it's one of the first of its kind. The perfume house dates back to 1828, though it really hit its stride in 1853 when Pierre-Francis Guerlain created Eau de Cologne Impériale for Napoleon III. Washed in white marble, the spa is luxurious and precise—the facials, in particular, are straightforward and effective.

The treatments at the Ritz Paris’s spa are as luxurious as you'd expect: Aestheticians use sound and light to ease you into total relaxation, then they go to work. The fascia massage, in which the membranes coating the muscles of the face are manipulated to ease tension, is amazing, and getting slathered in a collagen-infused formula leaves you smoothed and soothed. When it’s all over, delay the crushing return to reality by retreating to the neoclassical swimming pool with one of the spa’s fantastic beauty-elixir cocktails.

Clients like Rihanna and Naomi Campbell leave sessions with facialist Sophie Carbonari looking sculpted and luminous. Go to her chic studio at the Palais-Royal for some serious pampering—lymphatic drainage, acupressure, and Japanese Kobido are just a few of the massage therapies she uses. “The idea with face massage is to get energy flowing and to support circulation,” she says. “Stimulating the muscles helps refresh the skin.” We love her ebullient energy, magic hands, and the custom botanical blends she mixes up for clients’ skin.

Surprisingly, Le Bristol is the only Parisian hotel allowed to perform facial treatments using La Prairie products. Much like the product line itself, the driving force behind the treatment menu is rejuvenation—as evidenced by treatments like the Caviar Lift Facial and the ultrasoothing Platinum Rare Haute Rejuvenation facial. The best part? You can drop off the littles at the Kids Club for the duration of your treatment.

Vaulted stone ceilings and walls (vestiges from its first life as a 17th century wine cellar) may not immediately channel comfort and warmth, but Spa Nuxe is balanced by any number of tropical flourishes, like palm leaves, rattan, and a cozy pool for Watsu (there are multiple outposts in Paris). The gentle, plant-based Nuxe line never gets any complaints from us either, particularly when administered during a soothing facial.