Travel

Barcelona Restaurants

Establishment neighborhood
Tia Santa
337 Carrer de Còrsega, Vila de Gràcia
Not many restaurant menus come with their own legend-purple for soy, beige for gluten, etc. But Tia Santa not only comes with a legend for navigating its menu, it comes with an incredibly thorough one. (Celery is green, mustard is yellow, and vegetarian dishes that can be adapted for vegans is denoted with two leaves in gradations of green. You get the idea.) In case it's not apparent, the restaurant, which translates loosely to "holy aunt," puts a premium on all things sustainable, organic, and healthy. But-to mix a metaphor-that's all just the icing. The real reason to come is that that, in a city of jamon this and queso that, the food is as unexpected as it is delicious.
Enigma
38-40 Carrer Sepúlveda, El Raval
One of the most exciting recent openings comes from Albert Adrià, who added Enigma to his family of Barcelona restaurants. In some ways a play off of the Adrià brothers former famed Catalonia spot, El Bulli, Enigma serves an inventive, curious cuisine via an ever-changing tasting menu. Dining here is meant to be an experience, and as the name hints, to have a bit of a mysterious appeal: After booking (well in advance), you're sent an access code, which you type into the keypad at Enigma's nondescript entrance. The interior—a futuristic, multiple-room space that appears to be fashioned out of some combination of ice, clouds, and waterfalls—is divided by course. You'll end up sampling about forty small plates in the span of three or so hours, generally only finding out what's on the menu after you've eaten it. This isn't an easy place for dietary restrictions, but it's a worthy gastronomic adventure if you can swing it.
Coure
20 Pasaje Marimon, Sarrià-Sant Gervasi
The exterior of Albert Ventura's fine dining establishment is unassuming—right off the Diagonal Avenue, a few blocks from Plaça de Frances Macià, the facade is simple and reserved, which actually matches the restrained, bare-bones décor inside. The formal dining room here is actually downstairs—there, you'll find a pre-fixe menu of small, gorgeously plated takes on traditional Catalan dishes. While the dining room is great for large parties or special occasions, we actually prefer to be seated at Ventura's more casual tapas bar upstairs. There, you can chit-chat with the chef about each dish, and order from an a la carte menu that, if a bit more casual, is just as elegantly considered as what you'll find downstairs. Either dining area is great for a more dressed-up lunch option.
Petit Comitè
13 Passage de la Concepció, Eixample
Chef Nandu Jubany is best known for Can Jubany, the fine-dining restaurant he and his wife started out of a country house an hour outside the city back in 1995. In the last few years, he's come on as the "gastronomic advisor" at Hotel Majestic; their main restaurant, Petit Comitè, offers a great taste of what Jubany can do without the drive. Expect traditional Catalan food in a formal, white-tablecloth kind of setting that's perfect for a special night, like a birthday or an anniversary.
Xemei
85 Paseo de la exposición, El Poble-Sec
Almost as soon as Venetian ex-pats Stefano and Max Colombo (who also happen to be twin brothers) got a taste of Barcelona's boisterous nightlife, they were hooked on the city. Their cozy Italian spot, Xemei—named for the Venetian word for twins—is widely thought of as the best place for Italian food in the city, with gregarious Stefano handling front-of-house and the organic wine program, and Max expertly leading the kitchen. The restaurant was actually unlicensed when it first opened, and though the paperwork is legit at this point, the interior is reminiscent of its underground roots—the itty-bitty space, cluttered with worn, mismatched furniture is centered around a big central bar that opens into the kitchen, and where Max presents the food before it's brought to each table. Not unlike local cuisine, Venetian dishes center around seafood, so regulars here rave about anything that combines pasta and fish—although it's hard to imagine being disappointed by anything on their daily-rotating menu.
Passadís del Pep
2 Pla de Palau, Ciutat Vella
It's easy to miss Passadís del Pep if you don't know what you're looking for—the more than 30-year-old spot is located down a long hallway in a nondescript apartment building, and there's no sign, so follow the address exactly. Once you arrive, you'll be greeted by a traditional-looking dining room, with stone walls, white tablecloths, impeccable service, and no menu in sight, as owner Joan Manubens Figueras prefers to serve whatever looks freshest at the market. When he first started the restaurant, the kitchen was run by his mother, and he continues to cook in her traditional style—fresh food founded in great ingredients and simple preparation, with a heavy emphasis on gorgeous local seafood (there are always a lot of crustaceans on offer). The no-menu situation also means no prices until you get the check, so expect to pay around 120 euros per person (including wine).
Dos Palillos
9 Carrer d'Elisabets, El Raval
This Asian-inspired restaurant is the brainchild of Albert Raurich—who spent nearly a dozen years at Ferran Adrià's El Bulli, seven of which he was head chef. Located in the Casa Camper hotel, Dos Palillos has two bar areas—the Asian bar serves their tasting menu at dinner, and at the more casual-feeling tapas bar, it's à la carte for lunch and dinner. There are also two spaces offering a bit more seating—the outdoor terrace and the signature Dos Palillos table, which fits about a dozen guests. Not surprisingly, the menu varies, but expect dishes like crispy chicken bites with curry, grilled oyster with sake, tuna steak temaki with nori, and burgers served on homemade bread with ginger.