Inside the Historic Irish Castle Where Every Day Is a Country Weekend

I grew up with birds—my mother had an eclectus, a sun conure, and an African grey—but falconry was never high on my list of things to try. (The African grey in particular was pretty bitey, so maybe that’s why.) But this morning, standing on a woodland path in Galway, I’m changing my mind. Perhaps it’s because last night I slept in a canopy bed in a plush castle room. And when I woke up, I took tea in my dressing gown on a silk-covered settee in front of the fire before pulling on boots and a country jacket and heading downstairs. Today, I feel like the kind of person who should enjoy falconry. Which is what I am doing now, with my leather-clad arm extended as a Harris hawk swoops down toward me. He’s a resident of the Ireland School of Falconry at Ashford Castle, and he is a persuasive argument for the sport.

The Setting

The castle, perched on the shore of Lough Corrib where it meets the River Cong, is a towering, turreted Gothic pile—imposing and romantic in a moody, Victorian way. It’s set on a 350-acre estate that straddles the border of County Mayo and Galway (the castle itself is on the Mayo side, but the grounds are largely in Galway). If you enter through the front gate—also imposing, also turreted—you will wind your way through woodland and past the golf course before the castle reveals itself below; you’ll need to pass through yet another stone gatehouse and over a bridge to reach the front steps, flanked by two massive stone Irish wolfhounds.

Step inside and the lobby opens onto a reception room ringed by a gallery: The space before you is all dark woods, crystal chandeliers, and rich velvets. There are oil portraits in gilt frames lining the walls and enormous stone fireplaces warming the rooms—the vibe is full castle, in the best way. On the ground floor, a series of lounges and reception rooms offer ample space to while away an afternoon with a book and a cup of tea (or something stronger—like the Walled Garden Lemonade, made with house-infused fruit tea vodka and fresh mint from the castle gardens).

The Rooms

The rooms and suites—there are 83—are exquisite, richly upholstered in silk damasks and jacquards, with towering canopy beds, cozy seating areas, gas fireplaces, and gothic windows hung with floor-sweeping drapery. They feel warm and personal, as if you’re staying at the country home of a (very grand) friend: a well-curated stack of coffee-table books arranged on an end table here, a silver tray with a decanter of sherry and two delicate cut-crystal glasses there. The marble-clad bathrooms—many of which have deep soaking tubs—are outfitted with heated floors, thick bathrobes, and bespoke toiletries. It would be almost too easy to retreat to your room and luxuriate there for your entire stay. But the castle and grounds beckon, which is why you’ll find a pair of wellies and a jacket in your closet.

What to Do

The biggest challenge here is deciding which activities to forgo—unless you’ve booked a lengthy stay, there’s just no way you’ll get to it all. At the top of the list are what I’d call country pursuits: Take a morning walk through the woodlands with a pack of Irish wolfhounds (you can also take a guided walk with no dogs in tow—but where’s the fun in that?). Head out in a boat for an afternoon of fishing on the lake, the largest in the Republic of Ireland and home to brown trout, salmon, and pike. Saddle up for a leisurely horseback ride. And, of course, get up close and personal with a Harris hawk. You can also take a kayak out onto the lake. Book a tee time on the nine-hole course or reserve a court for a game of mixed doubles. Try your hand at archery or clay shooting. Play a game of croquet or boules. Take a boat across to the Chief’s Island for a cozy picnic. Tour the kitchen gardens. The list goes on.

There’s also, of course, a spa, with a full roster of services—massages, aromatherapy, facials, reflexology, manicures, pedicures, and body treatments. A standout is the Augustinus Bader facial, which uses the German doctor’s cult-favorite TFC8-powered skin care and signature facial-massage technique, the Method, to activate the fascia and leave your skin looking smooth, lifted, and impossibly radiant. Whatever treatment you opt for, however, budget some time to relax on a chaise longue by the pool before or after it: The light-filled room, with its intricately tiled walls, beaded chandeliers, and potted orchids is a so beautifully serene, it feels almost like a spa treatment in itself.

The Food and Drink

As with the activities, here Ashford again conspires to keep you on site. There are seven restaurants to choose from, each offering a distinct experience. The George V is the fine-dining option, with a menu that draws heavily on local ingredients (some grown on-site in Ashford’s gardens). There’s Cullen’s at the Cottage, a cozier, more casual proposition for lunch or dinner. The Connaught Room is the spot for a proper afternoon tea. The Drawing Room, overlooking the lake, has a reliable menu of easy all-day options—think Caesar salad, club sandwich, fish and chips. Downstairs are the two most fun options: Stanley’s, which is a retro American-style diner, and the Dungeon, a bistro with a Josper grill and dramatic décor. There’s also Wilde’s, at the Lodge a few minutes’ walk away, with a light-filled dining room overlooking the lake and an inventive menu of seasonal dishes.

Drinks-wise, there are a few musts: Book a wine tasting. You’ll head downstairs along a dimly lit 16th-century passageway—discovered during the castle’s renovation in 2015—and gather around a candlelit wooden table in the wine cellars to learn about wine and some castle history (if you’re lucky, you might get a ghost story or two). You’ll also want to make time for a pre-dinner drink in the Prince of Wales Bar (named for the then-future King George V, ahead of whose 1905 visit it was built)—it has an extensive menu of classics and inventive signature cocktails. And after dinner, make your way upstairs to the billiards room; with its deep leather sofas and low lighting it feels like an old-school men’s club (where you’re actually welcome).