Naming a favorite destination feels like naming a favorite child: impossible, yet, if pressed, you could probably choose. For me, it’s Istanbul. Istanbul has a rare kind of vigor to it that you don't often get to experience twice. I first visited years ago (it's where I got engaged), and when I returned three years later, the city somehow eclipsed my memory of it. That’s the magic of Istanbul: it’s unlike anywhere else. Stretching between two continents, it blends European and Asian influences with thousands of years of history, leaving behind remnants, ruins, and traditions from long-since-vanished empires. At the same time, it still has a distinctly modern energy and newness that match its bustling-metropolis reputation. The history alone is reason enough to go, but for me, the delicious food, fantastic shopping, bathhouse culture, and sense of discovery make Istanbul a must-visit.
If you only have a few days to explore, here's how I’d spend them.
WHERE TO STAY
It's almost impossible to choose where to stay in Istanbul—there are that many fantastic hotels. The Peninsula Istanbul in Karakoy is a waterfront spot by the Golden Horn, right in the action and well-positioned for exploring the Asian side of the city. The Mandarin Oriental has incredible Bosphorus views, an enchanting garden spa, and lively energy.
The Raffles Istanbul is the place to be if you're a creature of (many) comforts—there's don't-have-to-lift-a-finger 24-hour butler service, fantastic in-room soaking tubs, incredible shopping (it's near the uber popular Zorlu shopping center, where local department store Beymen's has cool Turkish brands), and sweeping views of all of the city. It also has one of the most stunning subterranean spas—complete with a whirlpool tub, sauna, and steam—that’s perfect for a morning hydrotherapy circuit.
If you're a history buff, stay at the Ciragan Palace Kempinski. Before it was a hotel, it was a sultan's imperial palace, and the pure opulence of the interiors and lush outdoor gardens are proof. It’s also home to the Sanitas Spa, a beautiful, intimate spa that offers a particularly special take on the traditional Turkish hammam experience.
And on that note: If you’re ever going to indulge in a hotel spa treatment, this is the place to do it. It’s not just that it’s fantastically exfoliating and will leave your skin softer than a baby’s; it’s also that a true Turkish bath is methodical, precise, and rigorous—and unlike any other spa treatment I've tried. Carve out time to truly experience the ritual (more on that below), but for shaking the plane off's sake, have a spa treatment booked at your hotel for the night you arrive. Think of it as a hammam lite.
The Mandarin Oriental; The Raffles Istanbul; Ciragan Palace Kempinski
WHAT TO DO
Day One
Start your morning early with a traditional Turkish breakfast. Raffles has a truly fantastic one with staples like menemen (scrambled eggs cooked with green peppers, olive oil, and tomatoes), sucuk (a type of Turkish sausage), and simit (a toasted, bagel-adjacent bread with honey and whipped cheese). I like to hit the ground running with sightseeing so I can chill later in the day when my energy starts to wane. Old Town is home to many of the city’s historic palaces, mosques, and monuments. There is a lot to see, so if you, like me, get easily overwhelmed by hours-long history tours, try splitting up the excursions.
Note: For visits to mosques and religious sites, women are required to cover their shoulders, knees, and hair, so dress accordingly and pack a pashmina, scarf, or wrap that’s easy to take on and off.
Topkapi Palace is a highlight—and my favorite palace. It was home to all the Ottoman sultans for four centuries (until 1839), and it's incredible how well-preserved it is given the sheer size of the property. There are dedicated sections for religious relics and clothing, but the real draw is the jewels and gems, including the famous 86-carat Spoonmaker Diamond. You'll want to spend at least two to three hours here, and I highly recommend getting the add-on tickets to explore the Harem. Fun fact: Legend has it that the fountain in the Imperial Council Chamber was used to prevent outsiders from eavesdropping on viziers discussing secrets and state business.
Breakfast at The Raffles Istanbul; University of Istanbul square near the Grand Bazaar
For lunch, take the tram (it's easy to navigate) to the Spice Bazaar and pop into traditional Turkish restaurant Pandeli for some meze and a tea break. You can't go wrong with the döner kebab, lamb, or topik.
After lunch, head over to the Hagia Sophia. An architectural marvel, it has been transformed from a Byzantine Christian church to an Ottoman mosque to a museum, then back to a mosque over the years. It’s an active mosque, so visitors can't go downstairs, but you can still tour upstairs. Many frescoes and mosaics have been destroyed or covered over time, but you can still see some.
Just a few steps away is the Basilica Cistern, the largest ancient cistern beneath the city of Istanbul. It's fascinating to see how water was filtered in the Byzantine era and to check out the popular Medusa columns—there's an array of mismatched Doric, Corinthian, and Ionic pillars, recycled from the ruins of other structures. If you have time, line up to go inside the Blue Mosque. A UNESCO World Heritage site, it has grand domes and thousands of blue-painted Iznik tiles inside.
Basilica Cistern; DAMA
The Hippodrome of Constantinople (now called Sultanahmet Square) is a nearby city square that was once the city’s arena for social gatherings and sporting events. It's worth a quick walk and wander (it’s where the Horses of Saint Mark originally resided before they were looted during the Fourth Crusade and taken to Venice).
While you’re in the Old City, grab a pre-dinner drink and meze at Lokanta 1741—it has an incredible rooftop that's super romantic. Or head straight to Nisantasi, a chic neighborhood with tons of good shopping (check out Vakko for cotton pieces and Gizia for Turkish brands) and places to eat and drink. Lips Wine Bar is fantastic for small plates and a glass (or two) of wine. For outdoor seating and people watching, try Foxy Nisantasi. If you want something more substantial, try the gastropub DAMA Nisantasi. It's more casual and lively—but the food, especially the mideye dolma, is delicious.
Day Two
I'm not saying you should book a trip to Istanbul solely around visiting Zeyrek Çinili Hamam—but I'm not not saying it. This is the kind of treatment that’s so good you hope your flight gets canceled so that you can stay and book it again. Ask for Kübra—she was the most thoughtful, warm, overall fantastic spa attendant who took me through the whole experience.
Tucked between ancient cisterns and mosques, it's a traditional Turkish hammam that's over 500 years old. Recently renovated (it took over 13 years to complete), the experience starts the second you set foot inside. As you head into the hammam, the relaxation begins. You sit and repeatedly pour hot and cold water over your body before your hammam guide begins vigorously scrubbing every inch of you down with a textured kese glove. It's followed by a hydrating, yet detoxifying mud body mask. Afterward, you rinse off and walk over to a large marble slab in the center of the room. Stretched out on steam-warmed marble, you're draped in a whipped meringue foam cloud of soap bubbles as you're firmly, yet rhythmically massaged. Once you're finished, you float out of the hammam and get to relax even further on cushy daybeds with some tea and treats. Even if your hammam treatment only lasts an hour or two, build in extra time to visit the on-site museum and art gallery. The museum has artifacts from the restoration and delves into the deep history of hammam culture.
Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
The At-Home Bathhouse Ritual
I still think about my treatment at Sanitas Spa, which starts with 20 minutes in the sauna to loosen your muscles before your spa attendant ushers you into the marble hammam. The ritual includes steaming, exfoliation, and a full-body soap massage, finishing with a body mask made of honey, milk, and rosewater. While the mask warms up and works its magic, you get a heavenly scalp massage, shampoo, and conditioning treatment. Once everything is washed away, you cozy up in a fluffy towel while your attendant spritzes your skin with rosewater tonic. Rose has deep roots in Turkish beauty rituals, dating back to the Ottoman Empire, and Turkey remains one of the world’s leading producers of rose oil.
Now, once a week, I try to untether myself from the busyness of 21st-century American life and make time to recreate the ritual. After using a sauna blanket, I steam up my shower, vigorously exfoliate with a body scrub, and lather up with mountains of silky soap bubbles using a rose-scented body wash. When I get out, I finish by massaging in body oil from head to toe.
Around the corner from the hammam is the Aqueduct of Valens, an ancient aqueduct built in the 4th century. Then head to the Grand Bazaar for some shopping. On the way, stop by Aynen Dürüm, a super low-key, no-frills kebab shack that serves the most delicious and tender lamb dürüm (wraps). The Grand Bazaar can be overwhelming at first (there are over 4,000 shops), but if you skip the counterfeit designer bags and tchotchkes and head straight to the “Old Bazaar,” you can find cool antique trinkets, jewelry, caftans, towels, soaps, teas, and more.
In the early evening, walk across the historic Galata Bridge before arriving at Galataport, a long waterfront strip of shops and restaurants. Check out Communité Galataport for some more shopping (I especially love the local Turkish brands like Pelcare). A late-afternoon cruise on the Bosphorus is the best way to see both the Asian and European sides of the city—sit back, relax, and enjoy the honey golden sunset over the city.
When you get off, head to Aheste for dinner. The intimate Turkish bistro is right in the Pera neighborhood, and one place I'll always make time to visit when I'm in Istanbul. The tasting menu is absolutely worth it—you get five delicious courses (think dudi Persian rice with crispy onion and tuna kadayif with pomegranate sour mayo), and they'll kindly swap out a course for dietary preferences or restrictions. For drinks, I got the Sor—a delicious magenta thyme-and-hibiscus-infused gin cocktail with a fluffy vanilla-egg-white foam. Afterward, if you’re still up for it, pop over to Comedus wine bar and split a bottle of Turkish rosé.
Old Bazaar; Pera neighborhood near Aheste restaurant