Leek and Carbonara Quichettes

Directions

Carbonara, that classic combination of pancetta, eggs, cheese, and black pepper, is one of my favorite pastas. I find the way the smoky, creamy, salty spiciness gets all tangled up in the spaghetti beguiling; it’s one of those dishes that makes even the bumpiest of days a bit smoother—the pasta equivalent of chicken soup. And quiche isn’t dissimilar; flaky piecrust replaces pasta as the starch, but the eggs, cream, and cheese are all there, often with bacon and leeks to boot. Which is why blending these two soul-soothing dishes into one just seemed like a good idea. It may sound decadent, but the texture of the spaghetti gives the custard a welcome bite, and the richness of the butter crust elevates its status to true comfort food.

1. To make the pastry: In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the butter, flour, and salt until the mixture resembles coarse meal (about ten pulses). Slowly add 1⁄4 cup of the ice water and continue to pulse until the mixture begins to come together. If the dough is too dry, add more water a tablespoon at a time and pulse again but try not to overwork it.

2. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and bring it all together with your hands, kneading once or twice until it forms a rough ball—you should see patches of butter in places for a flaky crust.

3. Form the dough into a 1-inch-thick disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

4. Remove the dough from the fridge. Dust a clean work surface with flour, unwrap the disk, and use a rolling pin to roll it into a 15 by 10-inch rectangle. Cut the dough into six squares, rolling them a bit thinner if necessary to fit the pans. Press the dough evenly into the bottom and up the sides of six 4-inch tart pans. Trim the edges and prick the bottom of the crust lightly with a fork. Freeze or chill the tarts for at least 30 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, line a plate with paper towels. In a large saucepan, cook the diced pancetta over medium heat until the fat has rendered and the meat is brown but not crispy, about 5 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the pancetta to drain on paper towels. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the chopped leeks. Cook the leeks in the pancetta fat until they are very tender, about 8 minutes, sprinkling with a bit of salt as you go. When the leeks are soft but not coloring, remove them from the heat.

6. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

7. While the oven is heating, make the custard: In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, and cream and season with salt and a generous amount of black pepper. Fold in the Parmesan and stir again, then add the cooked pancetta and leeks along with the prepared spaghetti.

8. Remove the chilled crust shells from the freezer and place a piece of foil inside each one, lining the foil up against the edges. Fill the foil-lined shells with pie weights or dry beans to keep the bottoms from puffing up and the edges from sliding down. Transfer the tart pans to a baking sheet and cook until just beginning to color on the edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove the shells from the oven, then carefully remove the foil and the weights from the pans. Return the tart shells to the oven until the bottom crusts look dry, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the tart shells from the oven and lower the oven temperature to 350°F.

9. Divide the carbonara custard mixture evenly among the tart shells, being careful not to fill them more than two-thirds of the way. Bake until the custard is set, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot or at
room temperature.