The Cleansing Mistake We’re All Making

I had never really given much thought to how I washed my face—until a recent treatment with aesthetician Kristen May Lee on a particularly sweltering afternoon in New York City. The most indulgent part of her so-good-it-feels-like-an-exorcism facial is the long, thorough, deeply relaxing cleansing step she starts with. 

“Most people rush through cleansing, treating it as a preliminary step rather than a meaningful treatment in itself,” says the lead aesthetician at ONDA Beauty. To her, that's a missed opportunity—a proper cleanse, she believes, is one of the most overlooked keys to healthy skin.

There are no scientific studies on exactly how long we should wash our faces, but most dermatologists and aestheticians agree that 45–60 seconds is ideal. (That's almost the same amount of time the WHO recommends for handwashing: 40 to 60 seconds.) That gives the cleanser enough time to actually do its job, says board-certified dermatologist Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD.

I decided to put it to the test: as I was unwinding and getting ready for bed, I set a timer for one minute. I closed my eyes and slowly began massaging my cleanser into my skin, as usual. When I felt I had cleansed adequately, I looked at my timer and was shocked to find that it had only been 32 seconds. 

With 28 more seconds, what skin benefits was I leaving on the table? More importantly, what could I be leaving on my face? “Cleansing is the foundation of healthy skin because it removes makeup, sunscreen, excess oil, sweat, bacteria, pollution, and environmental debris that accumulate throughout the day,” says Engelman. “If left behind, these can contribute to clogged pores, irritation, inflammation, oxidative stress, and accelerated signs of aging.” By thoroughly sweeping away this accumulation of skin terrorists, the active ingredients that follow in your skin-care routine (think, all your fancy serums and creams) work to their fullest potential. 

It's not just about what a cleanser removes, either. It's about how much more it can do if it has enough time to treat your skin. “While a cleanser is not on the skin as long as a serum or moisturizer, it still has direct contact with the skin barrier,” says Engelman.

“If a cleanser stays on the skin for a couple of minutes while it is being massaged into the skin, the skin is still interacting with ingredients, breathing new life into the cells,” adds Lee. During that window, she explains, a good formula can support the skin barrier by minimizing lipid disruption, calm inflammation with soothing botanicals, offer antioxidant protection against pollutants, deliver humectants that stave off that tight, stripped feeling, and help maintain a healthy skin microbiome and pH balance.

As you massage the product into your skin, you're also helping move along lymphatic fluid—which can help to reduce puffiness—while boosting blood flow to the surface of the skin—which helps your complexion look brighter and more awake, Lee explains. That slower, more deliberate ritual doubles as a moment of stress relief, too. Put together, Lee says, it can add up to healthier-looking skin over time, even if the cleanser itself isn’t supercharged with actives. 

Below, Engelman and Lee share their other essential cleansing tips that leave skin luminous, supple, and balanced year-round.

Expert Rules for a Really Good Cleanse

1Choose the Right Cleanser

While it's a good starting point, your skin type is just one factor that determines what cleanser will work best for you. “Your cleanser should be based on your skin type, barrier health, and what you need to remove that day, whether that is sunscreen, makeup, sweat, or oil,” says Engelman. “In a cleanser, I care less about dramatic treatment claims and more about whether the formula cleanses effectively while leaving the skin balanced.” 

Balance looks differently for everyone. “The wrong cleanser can strip lipids, disrupt the microbiome, irritate the skin, or leave it dehydrated,” says Engelman. If you have a compromised barrier, you'll want to skip a cleanser with any harsh surfactants, actives, or exfoliants and opt for something super gentle. If you're wearing a lot of sunscreen or makeup, or have been sweating, you may need to opt for an oil or balm cleanser to do more heavy lifting to clear away sebum and debris.

Dry Skin

Engelman lists hydrating and barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, squalane, and nourishing oils at the top of her list for those with dry skin. “Look for cleansers with oils and humectants, as they are deeply replenishing,” adds Lee, who especially loves high-quality, nutrient-dense olive oils, found in Wonder Valley's oil cleanser and Furtuna Skin's cleansing balm. “You want something lipid-rich to really cushion a dry complexion.”

Oily or Breakout-Prone Skin

Engleman suggests ingredients such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, gentle exfoliating acids, or lytic ingredients (azelaic acid, willow bark extract, etc). “This can help with congestion, excess oil, and acne-causing bacteria,” she says. Lee also likes manuka honey—“it's incredibly anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial with wound healing benefits,” she says, and kaolin clay, which can help with mattifying.

Sensitive Skin

“Sensitive skin generally does best without added fragrance, and for many people that includes essential oils, which can sometimes be triggering,” says Lee. “I encourage those with sensitive skin to look for ingredients like colloidal oatmeal, glycerin, and ceramides, which help soothe, hydrate, and strengthen the barrier.”

Perhaps equally as important, look for a cleanser you really enjoy. “A beautifully formulated cleanser changes the experience of cleansing,” says Lee. “If it encourages someone to spend two minutes gently massaging their face instead of rushing through the process, that's not insignificant.”

2Massage Gently, But Firmly

After lathering on your cleanser in an even layer, it's time to massage. “The intention and thoroughness of the application matters just as much as the cleanser itself,” says Lee. “Massage the cleanser up and across the décolletage, neck, and face in an upward and outward motion.” Don't be afraid to be a little firm, too. “Use vigorous circular motions to really work the product in,” adds Lee. “You can also use knuckling motions to loosen up deeper set tension along the jawline, cheeks, and neck.”

Note: If you're using an oil cleanser or balm, apply it to dry skin first, then add water to emulsify before rinsing. If you're using a traditional cleanser, apply it to damp skin and massage evenly.

3Cleanse Beyond Your Face

When was the last time you intentionally washed behind your ears, or down your neck and chest? What about your neck and chest? These are all areas that deserve to be a part of your daily face-washing ritual, too. “Focus on the hairline, sides of the nose, ears, jawline, and under the chin, which are commonly missed areas where sunscreen, makeup, sweat, and oil can build up,” says Engelman. “If you apply sunscreen, makeup, fragrance, or skin care to the neck and décolletage, those areas should be cleansed as well.”

4Take Your Time

Again, 45 seconds is the minimum amount of time you should be spending cleansing your skin: “The goal is not to scrub aggressively but to give the cleanser enough contact time to do its job,” says Engelman.

If you do have extra time to commit to cleansing, say five minutes, some cleansers can supercharge benefits further by leaving them on skin. (I especially like to do this with Vintner's Daughter Active Renewal Cleanser or Seed to Skin's Divine Cleanse.) April Gargiulo of Vintner’s Daughter created a nutrient-dense whole plant treatment with her cleanser,” says Lee. “It behaves more like a mask that treats skin.”

5Rinse with Lukewarm Water

Think of Goldilocks when finding the right temperature for water—not too hot, not too cold, but just right. “Hot water can strip the skin of its natural oils and worsen dryness, redness, sensitivity, and barrier disruption,” says Engelman. “Very cold water may feel refreshing, but it may not remove residue as effectively.” Instead, she suggests tepid water that feels “comfortable” but not extreme. 

6Dry Off with Clean Towels

One simple habit that could support a healthy skin barrier and crystal clear complexion? “Always reach for a fresh, clean cloth after each cleanse—especially if you are prone to breakouts,” says Lee. “A damp washcloth that has been sitting out can quickly become a breeding ground for bacteria—and you don't want to reintroduce that back onto freshly cleansed skin.”  You also want to make sure you're using something soft—whether a washcloth or disposable face towels. “Rough towels and aggressive rubbing can create unnecessary friction, especially for sensitive, acne-prone, or barrier-compromised skin,” says Engelman. “I recommend gently patting the skin dry with a clean, soft towel.”