Like most women in midlife, I have no desire to revisit my 20s. Who needs the insecurities, body negativity and bad boyfriends? And yet, when I apply eyeliner, concealer, or even a matte lip, my techniques—and beauty brands—harken back to decades ago. My makeup bag is like a time capsule from the ‘90s, an era known for ultra-nude lips, skinny brows and frosted lids. Why is it that I upgraded my skin care when I turned 40 but haven’t revamped my cosmetics?
I’m not alone either. “Some of my clients in their 40s and 50s are loyal to beauty products and routines they used when they were younger. But when we hit perimenopause, our skin can lose its luster and glow,” says celebrity makeup Molly R. Stern, who works with celebrities like Maya Rudolph, Reese Witherspoon and Greta Gerwig. “Then, it’s time to change it up.” In fact, with so many clients over 40 asking about cosmetic upgrades, Stern now offers a makeup drawer overhaul service. The consultation starts at $250 for a 30-minute Zoom that includes a review of your current products. (Stern, who is Los Angeles-based, also offers personal makeup shopping, product demos, and one-on-one or group lessons.)
So that’s exactly what I decided to do after years of denying that my products weren’t working for me. First, I jettisoned the beloved glittery champagne-hued eyeshadow that creased in my upper lids. (Never mind the random silver sparkles that landed on my chin.) Then, I had to whisper “goodbye” to the ride-or-die pink-nude matte lipstick that parched my pout no matter how much balm I applied on top. “Our lips can get dry and crepe-y when our hormones shift,” says Kelly Bickle, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Santa Monica. “The texture and tone of our skin changes too.” Noted.
To update my makeup, I focused on formulas, pigments, and packaging. My goal? Find products that don’t cling to fine lines, siphon hydration, or deliver opaque coverage. “I always say that young girls wear a lot of makeup to look older,” says Stern. “The same applies to us as we age. Too much makeup makes us look older.”
Face First
Every makeup artist I have ever interviewed maintains that skin-care prep is imperative for the best application of any cosmetic. So before testing my new foundations, I properly hydrate with the goop Beauty All-in-One Super Nutrient Face Oil.
I try three different brands and formulas to replace my full-coverage foundation, which is now too matte for my skin. My first pick is Ilia’s Super Serum Skin Tint SPF 40, which slides on my face like silk and leaves me looking dewy. But it’s tough to spot-cover my increasing pigmentation and the redness around my nose with this fairly sheer serum. Still, I love it for making my skin look naturally radiant on a day spent outdoors, and it has 40 SPF, too.
I found that Saie’s SlipTint Tinted Moisturizer does a slightly better job at covering my middle-aged epidermal inconsistencies. It also contains hyaluronic acid, which plumps the appearance of my skin. (Stern says: “You should be more focused on quenching skin than coverage.”) The finish includes a reflective glow where the light hits my cheekbones.
The enlarged pores on my chin are a different story. Anything reflective just draws more attention to them. With that in mind, I test-drive Fara Homidi’s Essential Face Compact, which comes with a creamy foundation-meets-concealer hybrid that delivers a matte finish. Stern advises me against trying to spackle my pores, so I apply just enough to minimize the redness and blur the skin. It works! And Homidi’s chic, refillable red compact with a bright, lacquer-like shine appeals to me as much as her formulas do. At my age, I deserve pristinely packaged makeup.
The Eyes Have It
Let’s start with some pain points. “Our brow drops because of laxity, which causes loose, excess upper eyelid skin,” Bickle tells me. I can attest to that because I find my precisely drawn eyeliner often transfers from my upper-lid line to my fleshy brow bone. Thank you, hot flashes! Or my eyeshadow seeps into the lines of my lid and the pigment payoff looks frightfully uneven.
To solve that problem, Stern recommends a cream shadow without a wet-looking finish—because “powder can just sit on top and cream shadows can look greasy.” I turn to Ilia’s Eye Stylus Shadow Sticks, which are long-wearing for 12 hours, and apply easily with my finger. Once the pigment dries, it sticks around like a trusted bestie. The shades come in sumptuous shimmer or matte hues; a slanted tip lets me add a thick swath of pigment or draw a skinnier line.
The keyword I learn from Stern is “waterproof.” I also stock up on a few of Ilia’s new Thru Line Waterproof Eyeliners that promise 24-hour wear (a swipe of nude on the lower waterline instantly makes them look more awake). She also suggests adding a little pop of brightness to the inside corners of my eyes with a dot of lighter concealer or powder to make them appear more open.
Lips Last
Finally, my pout. In the past decade, my lips have seemingly deflated like an old pool floatie. I remedy that deficit with Dr. Diamond’s new LipLift, which plumps my vermilion and lip lines.
Bickle recommends using an emollient like her vegan, petroleum-free Balm on lips every night to hydrate them. Stern likes to add a light swipe of foundation to the lips before she implements pigment. “It acts as a primer and makes the formula last longer,” she says. I try that trick—and it works.
To create the illusion of more volume, Stern recommends lining the lips—again, look for a long-wearing formula—and also filling in the entire upper and lower lip with the pigment. That way, you still have some color on the skin if your lipstick or gloss wears off. (Our natural lip color also tends to fade as we get older.) I do just that with my new RMS Go Nude Lip Pencil with jojoba oil, then dot on Westman Atelier’s hydrating HydroBalm Tinted Lipstick for a luscious, vibrant lip with staying power.
