How to Create Soft, Matte “Cloud Makeup” for Every Skin Type
Ethereal skin and soft, velvety hues were everywhere on last year's runways at Schiaparelli, Khaite, Versace, and more—and the romantic beauty trend is still going strong this season. Dewy, glazed, glass skin has given way to soft, matte "cloud makeup," challenging the idea that powder is inherently chalky or drying.
This new take on matte skin is all about a subtle glow, creating textures that give your features a blurred, soft-focus effect, says top New York City-based makeup artist Kelli Anne Sewell. “Everyone always asks me what my top makeup tip is, and it’s this: powder is your friend,” she says. “It makes you look more natural, and it’s the only tool that can soften and hide texture. It leaves a refined, pore-less, airbrushed finish.” Sewell adds that it's also one of the most powerful tools for makeup longevity.
New formulas are also raising the bar: “There are so many unique hybrid formulas that leave a demi-matte or subtly luminous finish. They deliver pore-blurring, mattifying benefits, but still let luminosity and radiance shine through," Sewell says.
Velvety cream-to-powder
Airy pressed powder
At Saie, head of product development Colleen Timpone kept the signature glowy finish Saie is known for in mind when approaching the development of a powder blush format. “Everything for us has to be easy and effortless but still feel lightweight, breathable on skin, with maximum color payoff,” says Timpone. It was a tall order: “We didn’t want it to look like powder, sit on top of skin, or feel cakey or heavy,” she says.
To fill said order, Saie traveled to Italy, the birthplace of luxurious pigments and baked powders, and started from scratch on their baked blush. “We wanted the best of the best and no one does it better than Italy,” she says. “Everything they create is in a thoughtful, artisanal way and the result is a plush velvety powder that leaves the most beautiful, diffused color on skin.”
For Tower 28, the success of their GetSet Pressed Powder led them to the powder blush space. “Powder blush is amazing when it comes to staying power, oil control, and delivering a smooth, burred finish,” says Tower 28 founder Amy Liu. “I wanted to bring that seamless, airbrushed effect from our setting powder to blush. Our blush is designed to minimize pores, even out texture, and lock in color that won’t fade—even in heat or humidity.”
Different powder formats serve different purposes, so there’s a formula out there for everyone. “Baked powder uses a creamy dough-like formula that’s mixed with solvents (Saie uses squalane, hyaluronic acid, and jojoba esters), hand-kneaded, and then placed on little terracotta discs in an oven,” says Timpone. “Water evaporates during the baking process and you’re left with a beautiful, sensorial, silky-smooth texture with powerful pigments and a radiant, glowy finish.” Pressed powder, on the other hand, uses loose powder and binders which is then pressed into an aluminum pan. Pressed powders come in a compact, which helps provide buildable coverage and easy touch-ups on the go. Loose powders are finely milled and often great for light, soft coverage—perfect for setting and blurring.
GET THE MATTE LOOK
While runway trends don’t always necessarily translate to real-life wear, matte makeup can look good on everyone’s skin, Sewell says. The key is using the right formula—and the right brush—for your skin type. “If you have dry skin, applying a full-force, heavy, mattifying powder with a sponge is going to give you opaque, intense coverage,” says Sewell. “But if you opt for a more breathable powder with a light, fluffy brush, it’s going to give you a thin wash of powder that’s so flattering.”
Ready to stray from your typical dewy look? Sewell shares her best tips to make applying powder seamless.
1Prep Skin with Moisture
Hydrated skin and a nourished skin barrier is essential before applying anything matte. “Skin prep is so important for great makeup application,” says Sewell. “It ensures that everything glides on and layers really well without pilling or creasing.” Sewell likes to prep with a hydrating mist, followed by a moisturizer and eye cream—just make sure you’re using products that suit your skin type. “If you’re super oily, try a water-based moisturizer without pore cloggers to prep skin,” says Sewell. “If you’re dry, layer on rich moisture and an eye cream with a bit of extra radiance to help that area pop.”
Oily Skin
DRY SKIN
COMBINATION SKIN
2Pinpoint Powdering Is Your Friend
If you’ve ever dipped an extra large fluffy brush in powder only to end up with it everywhere on your face, Sewell has a brilliant trick for you: try a smaller, fluffy, denser brush. “No one is just one skin type all over your face,” she says. “There’s some parts of your natural skin that are a little duller, a little brighter, a little more reflective, a little oilier—a smaller brush gives so much more precision and helps you delicately place power only where you need it like the t-zone or under eyes.”
3Reuse Your Brush to Soften Color
“Mario Dedivanovic taught me this trick: use the same brush you use to apply your foundation or setting powder for your powder blush or bronzer,” says Sewell. “Because the brush already has a fine amount of powder on it, it helps soften the color, making it look super natural.” Saie’s powder brush was specifically designed for seamless blush application in one swipe. “We went through tons of iterations to perfect it,” says Timpone. “The bristles are angled, fluffy, and dense to pick up the right amount of blush to sweep it on the cheeks.”
4Layer and Play With Different Textures
Just because you’re dipping a toe into powder makeup doesn’t mean everything on your skin has to be matte—you can try matte eyeshadow, lipstick, blush, and more with creamier textures for dimension. “You can absolutely layer creams and powders, just make sure each layer is very lightweight so it’s more flexible,” says Sewell. “I love to set my cream products with powders, too. It’s a brilliant way to keep your makeup lasting all day and night.”
