French Girl Hair, Reimagined: The Bixie Comeback

Lately it feels like every scroll turns up the same haircut: a little shaggy, a little undone, short and effortlessly cool. It’s called the bixie, and if it looks familiar, that’s because it is. This cross between a bob and a pixie is a close cousin of the choppy, grown-out pixie that was everywhere in the ‘90s. (See: Gwyneth in Sliding Doors.) Now it’s back, and has become shorthand for a very specific idea of French style—the kind that looks like it took five minutes, even when it didn't. Think Audrey Tautou on the red carpet, or any Parisian woman who seems allergic to the blowout.

But is it actually wearable for the rest of us, or is this one of those trends that only works under studio lighting and a team of stylists? We asked stylist Jae-Manuel Cardenas of Ollin Salon in New York to break down what the cut really is, how to style it like an actual French girl (not a red-carpet stand-in), and why your part might matter more than the cut itself.

What Is the Bixie?

“It’s short, it’s a little shaggy in the back, but it’s not necessarily a ’90s shag. It’s softer,” Cardenas says. “A bixie cut combines the edginess of the pixie but also keeps a little bit more of that classic look of a bob.” The front is usually long enough to tuck behind your ear, which helps the whole look feel relaxed instead of styled. Because it borrows from both cuts, it’s also versatile: You can wear it edgy or style it cleaner for something more polished.

What to Ask for at the Salon

“Bring photo references that have similarities to your hair type, hair texture, and even face shape, because that will help determine the length at the front and the back,” says Cardenas. Some of his favorites include Gracie Abrams, Emma Stone, Julia Garner, and Zendaya.

To up-keep the perfect bixie, Cardenas advises trimming it every four to six weeks.

How to Style a Bixie Cut Based on Hair Texture

Straight or lightly wavy hair is the easiest to style, Cardenas says. If your hair is thicker, coarser, or curlier, the cut can still work beautifully, but it may need a little help. “Keratin treatment is an incredible way of making sure my clients’ day-to-day styling is going to be super easy,” Cardenas says. It keeps the cut from getting “too puffy” without stripping the texture entirely. And it doesn’t have to be all over: for clients whose hair is straighter on top and tighter at the nape, he sometimes treats just that section. Because one treatment lasts about six months, Cardenas considers it a fairly low commitment. Otherwise, the right smoothing products can do some of the work. And if you have curly hair, you don’t need to straighten it at all—you just have to know how to manage your curls, he explains.

Straight

For straight hair, Cardenas suggests creating volume at the crown with a small round brush, then smoothing the rest of the hair with the same brush. Focus on adding volume to the crown, not the sides of your head. Otherwise, “the bixie gets too big and starts to look dated,” Cardenas warns. He suggests spraying a thickening formula into damp hair before blow-drying to add volume and texture. After blow-drying, he suggests using the ROZ Texturizing Mist to add even more texture. If you prefer a sleek, smooth finish, skip the texturizing spray and add hair oil or leave it natural.

Wavy

“Wavy hair is probably the best style for a bixie cut, because it is the most versatile,” Cardenas says. He suggests applying Crown Affair Air Dry Cream to damp hair, then letting it air-dry or diffusing it with a blow dryer. To add more texture, he runs a few pieces through a curling iron. A few drops of Crown Affair's hair oil through dry hair help add shine and tame frizz.

Curly

For curly hair, Cardenas recommends letting your natural curls fall loose. Because curly hair tends to be drier, he suggests starting with a hydrating hair mask. Then, work a curl control cream through damp hair before diffusing or air-drying to help prevent frizz. Once your hair is dry, he suggests using a little more curl control cream to shape the curls with your fingers.