according to ali

Paris to Puglia and Everything in Between

Ali Pew’s post as goop fashion director sends her packing. A lot. There are now more fashion weeks than we can count, and photo shoots won’t style themselves. This is our chance to live vicariously.

The 2020 spring ready-to-wear collections were like a breath of fresh air: not-so-obvious matchups, like menswear-influenced shirting paired with scanty skirts. Leather that skewed sexy. And white–so much white. More than ever, designers are creating the kind of clothing that women feel like they can actually wear right off the runway.

And while there’s nothing like Paris at the peak of fashion month, what goes up must come down. And after a month of planes, trains, shows, and living out of a suitcase, I took a moment to reset and ease myself back to real life—via the crystal coastline of Italy for a slice of la dolce far niente.

PRÊT-À-PORTER: S/S 2020

A show crasher at Chanel may have hijacked headlines, but my eyes were on Karl Lagerfeld’s successor, Virginie Viard, whose short tweed playsuits (who’s ready for leg day?) set a fresh tone for the coming decade. Speaking of the new decade, there was a reckoning of past and future at Loewe, where we saw a return to romance by way of exquisite lace paired with modern silhouettes. And perhaps no one does the old-meets-new thing better than Hermès, where buttery-soft leathers elevated everything they touched.

Other highlights: the whiteout at Valentino, where flurries of structured dresses draped over tonal leather shorts sauntered along the runway. And if Louis Vuitton’s show proved anything, it’s that the goop-favorite puff sleeve is going strong.

loewe

HERMÈS

LOUIS VUITTON

chanel

valentino

loewe

HERMéS

LOUIS VUITTON

chanel

valentino

loewe

HERMéS

LOUIS VUITTON

chanel

valentino

L’HÔTEL

Paris has no shortage of grand hotels. But in my humble opinion, none compare to Saint-Germain-des-Prés’s especially gorgeous Lutetia: The rooms are massive. And that’s not even taking into account the impressive closet space (see: my packing list). Meanwhile, heated floors and the most luxurious marble tub make le bain feel like an actual place of refuge after a day of exploring. Which you’ll need, given that the hotel is within striking distance of the best brasseries, cafés, and my personal favorite, for better or worse: Le Bon Marché. Should I need to take a meeting, there are cozy lounges and chic cafés in the Lutetia (the Brasserie gets my vote). The 7,500-square-foot spa with a lap pool is also worth checking out.

PACKING LIST

Come fashion week, my uniform boils down to anything easy and functional. I live in a palette of black, navy, and white (with contrasting leather textures), which takes the overthinking out of packing; it all meshes. I can mix, match, and squeeze multiple wears out of each of these pieces. And I never leave the hotel without a tailored coat or a spacious crossbody—both are perfect for shifting between appointments, arrondissements, and after-work dinners.

LES ESSENTIALS

My secret weapons for surviving fashion week: a mask that brings dull skin back to life. (Pro tip: Store it in the mini fridge.) Bite-size boosts of energy for when there’s no time for espresso between shows. And a one-stop shop for comfortable, packable underthings.

PIT STOP: PUGLIA

After a month of go, go, go, my weekend MO is chill, sleep, repeat. Which is exactly what brought me to Puglia. Perched on the southeastern side of Italy’s big boot along the Adriatic Sea, Puglia is an under-the-radar destination known for its food, serene countryside, and overall lack of tourists. All of which are part of its allure.

BORGO EGNAZIA

My first move was checking into Borgo Egnazia. Borgo, which means village, is the perfect way to describe the hotel (the place has its own piazza). Although the white stone looks straight out of a history book, the property itself is actually quite new but in a way that still feels authentic. The food was a highlight (the Michelin-starred Due Camini was unreal, but the wood-fired pizza at Trattoria Mia Cucina is why you come to Italy). There are olive trees and bougainvillea everywhere. And the traditional villas and cute casettes (townhouses) with their minimal rustic décor made me feel as if I were worlds away. Beach club, pools, golf course, tennis courts—there is no reason to leave. Unless you’re grabbing a bite of fresh burrata at neighboring Masseria Le Carrube’s chic farmhouse ristorante, known for its impeccable vegetarian food.

My first move was checking into Borgo Egnazia. Borgo, which means village, is the perfect way to

the hotel (the place has its own piazza). Although the white stone looks straight out of a history book, the property itself is actually quite new but in a way that still feels authentic. The food was a highlight (the Michelin-starred Due Camini was unreal, but the wood-fired pizza at Trattoria Mia Cucina is why you come to Italy). There are olive trees and bougainvillea everywhere. And the traditional villas and cute casettes (townhouses) with their minimal rustic décor made me feel like I was worlds away. Beach club, pools, golf course, tennis courts—there is no reason to leave. Unless you’re grabbing a bite of fresh burrata at neighboring Masseria Le Carrube’s chic farmhouse ristorante, known for its impeccable vegetarian food.

SPA TIME

Afternoons are made for R&R. And at Borgo Egnazia, all roads lead to the spa, which echoes the peaceful surroundings of the Puglian countryside. Once you’re there, I highly recommend booking the Annaske treatment—a three-part experience involving salt scrubs, purifying mud, and one truly amazing tension-melting massage. Side note: In 2020, they’ll be hosting Blue Zone retreats, where you can experience hands-on workshops, health-conscious dinners, and movement sessions all focused on longevity.

MADE IN ITALY

Borgo Egnazia’s charming boutique is also a draw. Curated by the owner’s wife, the pristine shelves are stocked with artisan treasures, like splashy ceramics and the kind of locally sourced, hand-pressed olive oil you’ll want to bring home in bulk. Then there are the white linen dresses that are so wispy, so unfussy, that even the hotel staff are all dressed in them. And it’s all shoppable online.