Travel

The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley

The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley

The Scenic Route Through
the Hudson Valley

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  • It’s one of those sunny days when a light coat is enough, and the breeze is more enlivening than imposing, that Megan O’Neill, a beauty editor here at goop, and her husband Jesse Bull tackle a particularly enviable assignment: Scout out the meals worth driving a few hours out of Brooklyn for, along with any quaint roadside farm stands and charming boutiques along the way.

  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley La DoubleJ The Bellini Dress, goop, $795
  • TOP: ABOVE: The perfect morning—gazing out at the river by the Brooklyn Bridge, with a glass of refreshing, citrusy goopglow to wake up skin. LEFT: BELOW: Megan and Jesse, cooling their heels at the gas station.

  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley
  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley
  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley
  • The destination is Hudson, NY, and the 3-hour journey—in a BMW X3 borrowed for the occasion—is just long enough to constitute a getaway. Sailing down the scenic Taconic, with the window down, turns out to be relationship-rejuvenating; as is getting out and stopping along the way at spots like the artisanal grocery store Olde Hudson and a flower shop that also specializes in sauerkraut.

  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley

    The destination is Hudson, NY, and the 3-hour journey—in a BMW X3 borrowed for the occasion—is just long enough to constitute a getaway. Sailing down the scenic Taconic, with the window down, turns out to be relationship-rejuvenating; as is getting out and stopping along the way at spots like the artisanal grocery store Olde Hudson and a flower shop that also specializes in sauerkraut.

  • TOP: ABOVE: The charm at Olde Hudson market is off the charts—as is the radicchio, the carrots… RIGHT: BELOW: Rolling down the car window on a gorgeous day is a special kind of (out-of-office) bliss.

  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley G. Label Gwyneth Camel Crombie Coat, goop, $1,395
  • The piece de resistance is a spectacular dinner at Gaskins in Germantown: The grass-fed burger is beyond; the radish-strewn salad tossed with roasted garlic vinaigrette inventive and fresh; and the rustic, cozy vibe of the place suits an already romantic trip. Here, a scrapbook from the journey, plus our escape-from-the-city guide to the Hudson Valley.

  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley
  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley
  • The Scenic Route Through the Hudson Valley Rebecca Taylor La Vie Posey-Print Silk Twill Dress, goop, $295

Where to Stay

  • Rivertown Lodge

    Rivertown Lodge

    Housed in a former 1920’s movie theater, Rivertown Lodge is one of the newest spots in town catering to the rush of creatives escaping to the Hudson Valley on weekends. A welcoming library is stocked with old books (best enjoyed by the open, wood-burning stoves or on the screened porch). Much of the design is slick Scandinavian with a minimalist bent, plus furnishings by Brooklyn-based Workstead, upholstery prints by Zak + Fox, and bath products by local perfumer 2 Note. Outside, Papillionaire bikes are lined up for a cruise around town.

  • Rivertown Guest House

    Rivertown Guest House

    An offshoot of the Rivertown Lodge, this recently restored Victorian-style 19th-century guest house features two generously sized apartments. On the parlor level, the owner’s apartment sleeps two (there’s also a twin sofa bed), and the marble-accented bathroom is outfitted with a soaking tub. Come warmer temperatures, there’s a large garden with a BBQ grill. A slightly larger second-floor apartment sleeps four, and the highlight is a light-filled, wood-paneled kitchen with a Viking cooktop—making it a great option for those who want to hole up inside for the weekend. The house is within striking distance of the action on Warren Street and a quick 5-minute drive from the Hudson train station.

  • Wm Farmer & Sons

    Wm Farmer & Sons

    Wm Farmer & Sons prides itself in its home-away-from-home vibe (the rooms are named after proprietors William Kirby Farmer and Kristan Keck’s relatives). Rooms vary in size and layout depending on your needs, but each one is comfortable, appointed with antiques, and some with a clawfoot tub and gas stove fireplace. In the evening, it’s worth swinging by the barroom for their specialty craft cocktails. If you’re in a festive mood, a Hudson Valley Rye Flight showcases some of the area’s best spirits.

  • Collective Hudson Valley

    Collective Hudson Valley

    For something a bit farther afield, Collective Retreats offers a different kind of getaway on Liberty Farms, a 310-acre working farm in Ghent, 15 minutes outside of town. Blissfully tucked away, the experience of sleeping in one of five luxury canvas tents and waking up to views of the Catskills and Berkshire mountains feels wholly unique. (They’re open from April through November.)

Eat & Drink

  • BackBar

    BackBar

    The guys behind Fish & Game have set up an open-air cocktail spot complete with picnic tables right on Hudson’s main drag. This Tiki-ish bar in a former auto body shop bets big on Southeast Asian street food. (The name is a play on “ikan bakar,” which are basically roadside stops throughout Malaysia.) An unfussy lineup includes standouts like triple pepper fried chicken, vegetable ramen, and yellow chickpea curry with mango chutney. Don’t miss the solid natural wines list.

    Photo: Christian Harder

  • Fish & Game

    Fish & Game

    Still one of the hottest tickets in town (more than two years after opening), Fish & Game is a reservation worth nabbing. The warm, cozy tavern-like vibe (it’s housed in a former 19th-century blacksmith’s shop) is punctuated with mounted taxidermy, ornate velvet wallpaper, and a hearth. The menu draws from the surrounding valley’s freshest produce, fish, and livestock and changes daily. Look for sugar snap peas tossed with young garlic and herbs, grilled soft-shell crab and smoked eggplant, as well as a whole roast chicken, which is cooked to perfection.

  • Gaskins

    Gaskins

    In nearby Germantown, owners Nick and Sarah Suarez have created a community gathering spot that’s become a destination in its own right. (Between the two of them, they’ve worked at beloved New York restaurants like Gramercy Tavern, Roman’s, and Marlow & Sons.) They tapped Brooklyn-based Studio Tack for a simple, pared-back design. (Think: penny-tiled flooring; dark, bentwood barstools; and big windows.) A cozy menu takes full advantage of nearby farmers, culling from the likes of Kinderhook and Whistle Down farms, and Otto’s Market for its crowd-pleasing bucatini, roasted beets, and grass-fed burger (Nick bakes the sesame buns daily). The cocktail list riffs on classics like Negroni’s and French 75.

    Photo: Mikael Kennedy

  • Grazin'

    Grazin'

    Down the street from the Rivertown Lodge, Grazin’, opened by local farmer Dan Gibson of Angus Acres, is an organic burger joint in a throwback-y diner setting. The most popular burger is the Uncle Dude, topped with house-made chipotle mayo, jalapeño relish, Hudson Valley cheddar, bacon from the farm, garden greens, and tomato (if they’re in season). For lighter appetites, there are smaller-sized portions, too.

  • Home/Made Hudson

    Home/Made Hudson

    After cutting their teeth for eleven years in Red Hook, Monica Byrne and Leisah Swenson of Home/Made decided to take their beloved café up north. Smack dab in the center of Warren Street, they’re doubling down on the weekend brunch scene. Open on Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., the surprisingly exhaustive seasonal offerings hit all the high notes: brioche cinnamon toast, granola parfaits, egg scrambles served with potatoes provencal and grilled walnut toast. There’s also a small selection of freshly baked pastries and espresso to go.

  • Olde Hudson

    Olde Hudson

    This much-loved local grocer is known for its array of veggies from surrounding farms, plus specialty condiments, pastas, and sauces for the pantry. Our tip? Get a made-to-order sandwich or shepherd’s pie off their handwritten chalkboard menu to pack for a picnic or your drive home.

  • Talbott & Arding

    Talbott & Arding

    If you’re looking for a spot to pick up a good chunk of cheese and a crusty baguette, this is it. (At any given time, there’s a selection of some forty to sixty cheeses from northwest purveyors like Jasper Hill Farm and Sugar House Creamery.) There’s also a nice spread of freshly prepared salads, sandwiches, and baked goods that change often based on what’s freshest locally. P.S. The mini loaves of ginger cake are topped with lemon frosting and make for a great road-tripping indulgence.

  • Tin Can Juicery

    Tin Can Juicery

    This souped-up 1950’s trailer churns out made-to-order juices like the Mildred (beet, apple, lemon, ginger) and filling smoothies (we’re partial to the Zenith, which includes peanut butter, almond milk, and bananas). There’s grab-and-go cayenne pepper flavored popcorn, and for traditionalists who need straight-up caffeine in the morning, they’ve got cold brew, on tap. A note—in the winter months, their storefront is at 449 Warren Street, and when it gets warmer, they set up on the corner of Warren and Front, just next to the Chamber of Commerce. Follow their whereabouts on Instagram.

Shopping

  • 2 Note

    2 Note

    The folks at 2 Note, a local apothecary that takes inspiration from both music and nature, will do everything from steer you in the direction of a hydrating face oil to help you choose one of their botanical fragrances. The small line of perfumes and bath and body care products are all crafted in small batches, meaning each one is mixed, bottled, and labeled by hand. For kiddos, there’s a line called Piccolo, which includes a gentle body wash, baby powder, and a do-everything balm that’s packed with essential oils.

  • Flowerkraut

    Flowerkraut

    A flower shop that stocks botanical cards and—you guessed it—sauerkraut, Flowerkraut is run by the charming husband-and-wife duo Mairead Travins (a floral designer) and Seth (a musician). Mairead sources flowers from around the Berkshires and Hudson Valley and looks to local makers (and Instagram) for clever gifts, like ceramics and textiles to round out their assortment. If you’re local, see their selection of house plants.

  • Hawkins New York

    Hawkins New York

    Designers Paul Denoly and Nick Blaine share an affinity for both Scandinavian and Japanese design—and the result is a shop packed to the rafters with industrial lighting, handcrafted furniture, recycled glassware, and linen throw pillows. (We love their cotton waffle towels and pink marble trivets.) They’ve got a location in NYC, too, and you’ll find them stocked in the goop shop here.

  • Mutiny

    Mutiny

    In a tiny row house, shopkeeping pair Rob and Gert Doriot bring their love of both the well-made and the hard-to-find to this highly trafficked stretch of Warren Street. The thoughtful menswear selection includes quirky socks from Kapital, La Paz vests and trousers, winter gear from Norse Projects, and unisex toiletries from Maison Louis Marie. There’s also a solid edit of indie magazines like Gather, Cereal, and Travel Almanac to flip through.

  • Red Chair on Warren

    Red Chair on Warren

    Jocelyn Sinauer has a keen eye for cherry-picking antiques from around the globe. Her talent is evident in her store, located in an 1800’s whaling house and filled with a mix of 17th-, 18th-, and 19th-century finds, mostly from Scandinavia and the South of France. The entire store has somewhat of a New England farmhouse feel—i.e., perfectly faded French linens and vintage tablewares. There’s a garden in the back, where visitors can look through a collection of worn terra cotta pots and rustic outdoor furniture.

  • Valley Variety

    Valley Variety

    Chuck Rosenthal fell in love with Hudson after seventeen years in SF, and decided to buy the building that now occupies Valley Variety. (He lives on the third floor.) Here, he curates a lifestyle shop, which features Arita porcelain, Normann Copenhagen pendants, Bensen seating, and much more. It’s the kind of spot you’ll wander into, think you don’t need another thing, and wind up with, say, a set of Scandinavian spice grinders. A bonus: They host regular (and private) cooking demonstrations with local and visiting chefs, covering topics like family-centric cooking, Korean BBQ, and even a knish night.

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