A Ski
Vacation in
Europe

(and
What to Pack)

Picking a favorite ski resort is like picking a favorite child: It’s impossible. In recent years, more and more of the action takes place off the slopes—and when those slopes are in Switzerland, Austria, and France, the hotels are as world-class as the skiing. Hotels and chalets are souping up their digs with next-level spas and restaurants, and the shopping is (finally) moving beyond puffers and cashmere socks. Sure, fresh powder and long runs are crucial to the ski experience—and on that front, Europe delivers. But before committing to predawn chairlifts and full-day passes, remember this: A weekend in one of the gorgeously opulent properties that dot the Alps is more about late-night revelry than early morning runs.

Gstaad, Switzerland

Imagine Narnia as a luxury ski town and you begin to get an idea of Gstaad, an Alpine town that is more fairy-tale than the fairy tale. And the turreted Gstaad Palace Hotel towering over the town is the epicenter of the action. Despite the fact that the Palace is the kind of spot where velvet dinner jackets and diamonds are the norm, it has a comforting familial vibe (no, really). Staffers greet you by name, kids are encouraged to stay up late, and most nights end with guests singing around the piano in the lobby bar after too many Vesper martinis. Rooms are generously sized, but the suites are enormous (with walk-in closets as big as many New York City apartments). And then there’s the spa, a botanical-scented grotto where nothing can go wrong. Relaxation happens wrapped in robes on cushy sofas around a wood-burning stove, and our deep-tissue massage was the most vigorous-in-a-good-way we’ve ever had. Not surprisingly, Gstaad is bursting with good restaurants. For a break from the old-world formality that pervades the town, La Fromagerie serves up classic Swiss mountain fare (cheese fondue, hunks of bread, and boiled potatoes for dipping) on red-checkered tablecloths. For frothy cappuccinos, hot chocolate, and prime people-watching, Charly’s at the edge of the village is tough to beat. And the selection of virtuous green smoothies helps start every day on an optimistically invigorated note.
WHAT TO WEAR

Slide 0 Slide 1 Slide 2
Imagine Narnia as a luxury ski town and you begin to get an idea of Gstaad, an Alpine town that is more fairy-tale than the fairy tale. And the turreted Gstaad Palace Hotel towering over the town is the epicenter of the action. Despite the fact that the Palace is the kind of spot where velvet dinner jackets and diamonds are the norm, it has a comforting familial vibe (no, really). Staffers greet you by name, kids are encouraged to stay up late, and most nights end with guests singing around the piano in the lobby bar after too many Vesper martinis. Rooms are generously sized, but the suites are enormous (with walk-in closets as big as many New York City apartments). And then there’s the spa, a botanical-scented grotto where nothing can go wrong. Relaxation happens wrapped in robes on cushy sofas around a wood-burning stove, and our deep-tissue massage was the most vigorous-in-a-good-way we’ve ever had. Not surprisingly, Gstaad is bursting with good restaurants. For a break from the old-world formality that pervades the town, La Fromagerie serves up classic Swiss mountain fare (cheese fondue, hunks of bread, and boiled potatoes for dipping) on red-checkered tablecloths. For frothy cappuccinos, hot chocolate, and prime people-watching, Charly’s at the edge of the village is tough to beat. And the selection of virtuous green smoothies helps start every day on an optimistically invigorated note.
WHAT TO WEAR

Chamonix, France

Mont Blanc, at a whopping 15,780 feet, is the tallest peak in Western Europe. Storybook Chamonix sits in the mountain’s shadow and, every December, swells with an experienced ski crowd eager to swoosh down the Pointe de Vue black run. The only problem with staying at chalet Ferme de Bois is you might not make it to the slopes at all. The five-bedroom stone-and-wood lodge is a study in luxe comfort. Shaggy throws, leather armchairs, and design books fill the cavernous living room, which has a showstopping fireplace as its centerpiece. The elevated terrace is perfect for stargazing at night and coffee (wrapped in blankets) in the mornings. When the blizzards roll in, the projector room and extensive movie library keep the kids (and adults) occupied. For a hotel option, family-owned Hameau Albert 1er excels at careful attention to detail with a Michelin-starred restaurant and a petite spa (the Ayurveda-based abhyanga oil treatments are next-level). For dinner, Le Monchu serves up classic Savoyard fare (cheese-covered everything) in a casual, bustling setting. Locals know to go there for the charcoal-grilled beef and baked potatoes.
WHAT TO WEAR

Slide 0 Slide 1
Mont Blanc, at a whopping 15,780 feet, is the tallest peak in Western Europe. Storybook Chamonix sits in the mountain’s shadow and, every December, swells with an experienced ski crowd eager to swoosh down the Pointe de Vue black run. The only problem with staying at chalet Ferme de Bois is you might not make it to the slopes at all. The five-bedroom stone-and-wood lodge is a study in luxe comfort. Shaggy throws, leather armchairs, and design books fill the cavernous living room, which has a showstopping fireplace as its centerpiece. The elevated terrace is perfect for stargazing at night and coffee (wrapped in blankets) in the mornings. When the blizzards roll in, the projector room and extensive movie library keep the kids (and adults) occupied. For a hotel option, family-owned Hameau Albert 1er excels at careful attention to detail with a Michelin-starred restaurant and a petite spa (the Ayurveda-based abhyanga oil treatments are next-level). For dinner, Le Monchu serves up classic Savoyard fare (cheese-covered everything) in a casual, bustling setting. Locals know to go there for the charcoal-grilled beef and baked potatoes.
WHAT TO WEAR

St. Anton am
Arlberg, Austria

St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria

Caveat: St. Anton am Arlberg is geared toward serious skiers. Topographically, the slopes in the Arlberg region are steep and tough, and they draw a loyal crowd of skilled, experienced skiers. A ton of investment in Arlberg has led to over ninety ski lifts, creating a massive ski zone that connects to other resorts, like Lech and Zurs. If you’re still up for it, the place to stay is the boutique hotel Himmlhof, which exudes all the Alpine charm you can possibly handle. The renovated farmhouse has a fireplace in what feels like every corner and gorgeous tartan upholstering on the sofas. Plus—best for last—it’s a three-minute walk from the closest ski lift. A bigger but still boutique option is Tannenhof. The interiors are more contemporary, but there’s still plenty of wood and soft furnishings for that rustic-cabin feel. All seven suites are saturated in stark, white Alpine light thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows. And then there are the over-the-top flourishes—a Maserati or helicopter from the airport; a beautifully outfitted, functional spa with Susanne Kaufmann products; and an award-winning restaurant (that fills up fast). Villa Trier has been a chalet since 1912, but these days the property leads a double life as a museum and an obscenely romantic, candlelit restaurant come nightfall. Request a table in the library and order the stewed plums and cream for dessert.
WHAT TO WEAR

Slide 0 Slide 1 Slide 2
Caveat: St. Anton am Arlberg is geared toward serious skiers. Topographically, the slopes in the Arlberg region are steep and tough, and they draw a loyal crowd of skilled, experienced skiers. A ton of investment in Arlberg has led to over ninety ski lifts, creating a massive ski zone that connects to other resorts, like Lech and Zurs. If you’re still up for it, the place to stay is the boutique hotel Himmlhof, which exudes all the Alpine charm you can possibly handle. The renovated farmhouse has a fireplace in what feels like every corner and gorgeous tartan upholstering on the sofas. Plus—best for last—it’s a three-minute walk from the closest ski lift. A bigger but still boutique option is Tannenhof. The interiors are more contemporary, but there’s still plenty of wood and soft furnishings for that rustic-cabin feel. All seven suites are saturated in stark, white Alpine light thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows. And then there are the over-the-top flourishes—a Maserati or helicopter from the airport; a beautifully outfitted, functional spa with Susanne Kaufmann products; and an award-winning restaurant (that fills up fast). Villa Trier has been a chalet since 1912, but these days the property leads a double life as a museum and an obscenely romantic, candlelit restaurant come nightfall. Request a table in the library and order the stewed plums and cream for dessert.
WHAT TO WEAR

A Ski Vacation in Europe (and What to Pack)

Gstaad, Switzerland

Gstaad, Switzerland

WHAT TO WEAR

WHAT TO WEAR

Chamonix, France

Chamonix, France

WHAT TO WEAR

WHAT TO WEAR

St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria

St. Anton am Arlberg, Austria

WHAT TO WEAR

WHAT TO WEAR

A Ski
Vacation in
Europe

(and
What to Pack)

St. Anton am
Arlberg, Austria