Sustainability, an Archival Deep Dive, and Shiny Things for the Guys
A big part of our jobs in the goop fashion department is getting distracted. It’s actually encouraged. That’s because sifting through the latest and greatest in art, culture, travel, and—of course—fashion is how we keep inspiration levels high. We created this new column to share these insights with everyone. Expect to read about up-and-coming collaborations, exhibitions that hit a spectrum of cultural touchpoints, notable store openings, and anything else we hope gets you as excited as it gets us.
For the second installment, we’re spotlighting an ode to a superstar female architect, resurrections from the COS archive, several reasons to believe that sustainability is top of mind for the fashion world, and so much more.
Spring 2020: A Nod to Sustainability
We know that the fashion industry is one of the most wasteful on the planet. Journalist Dana Thomas takes a long, hard look at the seriously detrimental effects the industry has on the environment in her latest book, Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes. She also points out that although there’s not yet a solution, a start has been made toward cleaning up this hot mess.
Even the heaviest of hitters seem to be getting on board. During fashion week, houses of all stripes used the spring 2020 runways as a platform for social commentary, awareness, and persuasion. At Dior, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri created an urban jungle using near-extinct trees as the backdrop, illuminating a crucial need for ecological conservation (the trees were then replanted as part of a bigger sustainability effort). Gucci pledged its allegiance to a company-wide carbon-neutrality plan through the subsidization of emissions-reduction projects geared at forest preservation around the globe. But they weren’t the only trendsetters: Gabriela Hearst, who’s known for working with recycled materials, put on her first-ever carbon-neutral show. She used local models (reducing the need for planes and trains) and made a contribution equal to the show’s energy-depleting costs to an organization focused on sustainability efforts in local Kenyan homes.
If You Buy One Thing This Season…
Ask anyone on the fashion team and they’ll tell you that Natacha Ramsay-Levi, the achingly cool creative force behind Chloé, can do no wrong. Take these lace-up booties for example. There is just so much right about the cool-girl-ified riff on combat boots. The sleek Italian leather, the pointed toe, the slanted heel. Our market assistant wears hers with jeans and romantic tops, our fashion director goes for tailored dresses, and our NYC editors add leggings and weatherproof coats to accommodate, you know, weather.
Chloé Booties, goop, $1,340
COS Archive Editions
On October 25, COS will kick off its Archive Editions program with the launch of its first capsule collection, inspired by Bauhaus. Fans of the London-based brand—and casual students of the legendary design movement—can expect a thirteen-piece collection featuring six men’s and six women’s pieces, plus one accessory. Since its inception a dozen years ago, COS has returned to Bauhaus for inspiration again and again (the brand subscribes to a “form follows function” ethos that is not dissimilar to the Bauhaus design process). In preparation, COS dove into the archives, resurrecting favorite designs, making a few modern tweaks (adding volume-boosting darts, tucking away fastenings, leaving edges raw), and ultimately creating a collection that reflects the modernist slant of both COS and its muse.
Cos Archive Editions Dress, COS, $135
Charlotte Perriand: Inventing a New World
Being a female architect in 1927 wasn’t just unusual; it was all but unheard of. Unless your name was Charlotte Perriand. Not that the role came easy for the then twenty-four-year-old aspiring designer. The iconic French architect Le Corbusier rejected her application to work in his studio, refusing to take her seriously because she was a woman. But after he saw her Bar sous le Toit—a petite yet functional bar, using modernist materials like nickel (this was the ’20s, after all), that re-created a room in her Paris apartment—at the Salon d’Automne, Le Corbusier was won over and offered her a job. A retrospective of her career opens at the Fondation Louis Vuitton this month, which is the twentieth anniversary of her death. The comprehensive exhibit of Perriand’s legendary work—including the iconic chaise longue that’s just as relevant today and the bar that ignited her career—will be on view through February 24.
Charlotte Perriand: Inventing a New World, Fondation Louis Vuitton
Tiffany & Co.
The iconic brand has been a godsend to gift-giving men for almost two centuries, and now the tables have turned. Designed by chief artistic officer Reed Krakoff, Tiffany & Co.’s first men’s collection is a line of jewelry, accessories, and home pieces that read sleek, uncomplicated, and playfully functional—a Swiss Army knife keychain, a compass, a luxe flask. The collection splits its time between two concepts: the Tiffany 1837 Makers Collection (modern takes on legacy pieces—think eighteen-karat chain ID bracelets and bold two-metal trophy rings) and Diamond Point (the name reflects the geometric pattern that punctuates every piece, from dog-tag necklaces to highball glasses).
Tiffany 1837 Cuff Links, Tiffany & Co., $3,400