Travel

Montreal Specialty

Specialty neighborhood
Fairmount Bagel
74 Avenue Fairmount Ouest, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Bagels in Montreal are something of a point of pride—locals take them very seriously, and there's some debate about what spot is truly the best. A top contender? Fairmount (their "rival" is nearby St-Viateur), which was opened in 1919 by a Russian immigrant named Isadore Shlafman. Both spots sell fresh ones 24-hours a day. What makes these bagels different is both their size (they're smaller than the ones you'd find in, say, New York) and their sweetness—likely thanks to the addition of honey or malt syrup. There are several flavors on offer from blueberry and chocolate to whole wheat and onion, but no matter who you ask, sesame is the most popular. A tip: bagels are sold in a pack of six and can last in the freezer for up to a few months should you want to take them home.
Hof Kelsten
4524 Boulevard Saint Laurent, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Although this bakery has only been churning out their specialties—crusty French baguettes, lightly sweet challah, and fluffy panettone (to name a few)—for only a few years, it's become an institution in the city. Owner Jeffrey Finkelstein's talent for what he does is both evident in his incredible breads and pastries (he's said he adds a "Jewish twist" to everything he bakes) and resume, which includes positions as both The French Laundry and Per Se. A great spot to grab a coffee and pastry to enjoy at the communal table. (Note: the buttery, fluffy scrambled eggs are worth trying.)
Kem CoBa
60 Avenue Fairmount Ouest, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Tucked into Mile End, this is the kind of hole-in-the-wall that might stop you in your tracks once you spot it (see: the limeade exterior, hot pink steps, and a line that wraps around the block). Homemade soft serve and sorbet are the things to order here, and what they're really known for are their inventive flavors, like coconut-mango and rose-raspberry, which change regularly. Note: the line moves swiftly, so don't be deterred—and, they're cash only.
Lester’s Deli
1057 Avenue Bernard, Outremont
Montreal residents are about as fanatical about their smoked meats as they are about their bagels. Owner Billy Berenholc has reigned supreme over this corner of Barnard for sixty years, and is a total neighborhood fixture who knows everyone’s name. Lester’s version of the ubiquitous medium-fat, smoked-rye sammy is called the "Cadillac", and that—washed down with a beer and several spoons of mustard—is the perfect introduction to the expansive menu of smoky briskets, pickles, and breads for a first-timer
Patrice Patissier
2360 Notre-Dame Street West, Southwest
Lauded pastry chef Patrice Demers has created a minimalist dessert haven at his southwest patisserie, which showcases his incredible skill for creating classic desserts with a twist. The offerings here are a form of art, with the finishing touches on, say, a chocolate alpaco with glazed apricots or a buttery Kouigan Amann that are so perfect, you almost don't want to disrupt them with a spoon. Demers and his team also offer baking workshops as well as a limited lunch menu during the week.
Schwartz’s Deli
3895 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, Plateau-Mont-Royal
Come for the signature sandwich—smoked meat piled atop chewy, house-made rye bread and finished with golden mustard—and stay for the old-school setting (Schwart’z has occupied the same spot since it's founder Reuben—a Jewish immigrant from Romania—opened the doors in 1928). The brisket is marinated in spices and herbs for a full ten days prior to entering the smoker, no chemicals added. If in doubt when ordering, the fail-safe method is to point at another diner’s plate, but, for the brisket aficionados out there, the sandwiches come lean, medium, or fatty—we recommend medium for that sweet spot of crispy edges and tender meat.
St-Viateur Bagel
263 Rue St-Viateur Ouest, Plateau Mont-Royal
The bagel scene in Montreal comes down to allegiance, so those who swear by St-Viateur wouldn't go to, say, Fairmount, down the block. A bit of background: The folks at St-Viatuer set up shop in 1957 and have been churning out handmade bagels the same way ever since. Here, bagels are hand-rolled, boiled in honey water, and then cooked in a wood-fired oven that both cooks and flavors the bagel. Their assortment checks all the boxes, no matter what flavor profile you're after: rosemary and sea salt, flax, poppy, and, of course, sesame. St-Viateur has locations dotted throughout the city, but the one on Rue St-Viateur Ouest is OG.
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