Via Bocca di Leone, 32, Campo Marizo
Dad to Delfina and the man who inspired her to go into jewelry design in the first place, Bernard Delettrez has been churning out surrealistic, mixed-medium jewelry—sculls, bones, insects, and reptiles—for decades. His shop, while small, feels more like a gallery than a retail space, with a wide range of his work displayed in a series of museum-style cases.
Via di Monserrato, 35, Centro Storico
This space, founded by two of Italy’s top Creative Directors is a concept store meets atelier, that celebrates luxurious handmade items and old-school craft.
Via del Governo Vecchio, 67, Centro Storico
Take one look at Delfina Delettrez’s artfully edgy—yet somehow totally trend-proof—gemstone-laden pieces, and it’s no surprise at all that she’s a Fendi through and through. Tucked into a side street near the Piazza Navona, her teeny shop is set up to look like the inside of an intricate jewelry box (the space housed a pharmacy in its past life), complete with mirrored walls, ivory-colored pharmacist’s cabinets, and insect-themed curiosities—undoubtedly a nod to the creepy-crawly motifs of some of her more elaborate creations.
Bocca di Leone, 46, Campo Marzio
A one-stop shop for all things fashion and design (look for unique mid-century furniture, textiles, and lighting), plus flowers, candles, and home fragrance. If you want to linger, don’t miss the small tea house and oyster bar in the back. There’s a second outpost in Milan.
Via del Babuino, 81, Campo Marizo
We like to think of this as the Italian equivalent of say, a Barneys, though it’s a bit smaller in size. There’s both a men’s and women’s flagship on Via Babuino, plus a few smaller shops scattered throughout the city; you’ll find an unerring edit of Alaia, Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, and the Row—albeit with a Roman bent. (The Céline assortment, unsurprisingly, is really good.) For the guys, they bet big on more tailored suiting looks from Thom Browne, plus sharp jackets from Givenchy and Valentino sneakers.
Via de 'Bardi 17, Florence
There’s no better spot to pick up leatherbound journals and writing paper than at Il Torchio, which sells carta marmorizzata—sheets that are thicker than average paper and slightly marbled. (A resin or glue helps attach floating pigments to the paper, and once out of the water the pigments are combed or sponged to create patterns.) For those who appreciate the art of a handwritten letter on quality stationery—and we do—Il Torchio should be an essential stop.
Via del Leone, 21, Campo Marizo
Iosselliani’s elaborately beaded, multi-chained, rainbow-hued jewelry (both costume and fine) are statement pieces at their best. Conceived and crafted right here in Rome by a (married) couple of design-savvy jewelers, the artful rings, bracelets, and necklaces make for excellent keepsakes to bring home. The moody wood-and-mirrors flagship is also where you can see pieces from their home décor collection.
L’Archivio di Monserrato
Via Monserrato, 150
Argentinian transplant and daughter in law of artist Cy, Soledad Twombly has recently moved her famed Roman atelier to a new space and given it a new name.
Piazza Antinori 4r, Florence
Loretta Caponi and her daughter Lucia are the women at the helm of this atelier—it’s filled with the most beautiful handmade sheets and pillowcases, slippery-soft silk nightwear that conjures up images of an old-world wedding trousseau, and embroidered linen tablecloths fit for feasts. Signora Caponi takes orders but asks for a month’s notice for delivery.
Luisa Via Roma
Via Silvio Pellico, 9, Florence
Luisa Via Roma is Italy’s (arguably better) answer to Barneys. The store is big—but not too big—and strictly curated to show off the best of Italian fashion and the most avant-garde of the international companies. Expect Fendi and Fiorucci alongside Versace, Yeezy, and Paul Andrew. The jewelry edit is sublime and features hard-to-find brands like Delfina Delettrez and Aurélie Bidermann. There’s also a terrace bar for a post-shopping cocktail.
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