Bairro Alto Restaurants
35 Rua do Teixeira, Bairro Alto
Though he was actually born in Yugoslavia, and didn't move to Portugal until 1997, Ljubomir Stanisic has become one of the country's most well-known celebrity chefs—in addition to his restaurants and books, he's also a consulting chef for Six Senses in Europe and a host of the Portuguese version of Kitchen Nightmares. 100 Maneiras is his original restaurant, and it remains a Lisbon classic. With only 30 seats, it's incredibly intimate—an experience that's furthered by a remarkably well-priced tasting menu. The menu itself changes seasonally, save for one signature item: Stanisic's "codfish clothesline," which is exactly what it sounds like, yet surprisingly appealing.
49 Av. 24 de Julho, Bairro Alto
Pap'Açorda, an old Lisbon classic that's recently moved to a brand-new location in the Time Out Market, came highly recommended from several people we asked. Chef Manuela Brandão has been with the restaurant since they first opened in the '80s, and he's known for classic Portuguese dishes like arroz de cabidela, açordas, and a chocolate mousse that helped first make the restaurant famous. There space is huge and there are two long bars (plus an excellent wine and cocktail menu), so while it's worth making a reservation for a big night out, it's also a good place for last-minute cocktails and snacks.
R. do Alecrim 35, Bairro Alto
With the exception of a few tables, all seats at Peixola are around one large, key-shaped bar in the middle of an intimate, lively dining room, where you'll find great cocktails, great ceviche, and equally great service. Almost everything on the menu is fish-oriented: think smoked salmon mousse appetizers, fish soup with anejo rum, and tuna tartar. Bonus: As of recently, the kitchen is open on Fridays and Saturdays until 1 am.
Sol e Pesca
44 Rua Nova do Carvalho, Bairro Alto
This place is all about preserved seafood. While you could have a full meal here with table service, the best way to experience it is to choose a couple of cans of fish, and order some bread and wine to accompany. It's also a great place to stop in for picnic supplies (they have a counter for quick grab-and-go orders).
81 Rua São Pedro de Alcântara, Bairro Alto
This laid-back spot in the Independente Hostel and Hotel has all the trappings of the quintessential hipster restaurant: plywood bar, mismatched vintage chairs for seating, and waiters with moustaches. In the mornings the tables fill up with young locals meeting up for brunch, and in the evenings, there's a DJ in the adjacent bar.
Time Out Market
49 Av. 24 de Julho, Bairro Alto
This renovated market, part of Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon's biggest fresh food market, has all the trappings of your typical food court—picnic-style community tables, food stalls, and large crowds—except the food itself is exceptional. It's a way to try a variety of dishes from a bunch of different top Portuguese chefs at once; there are thirty-five kiosks, with a not-to-be-missed spot from Henrique Sá Pessoa of Alma among them. Plus, there's ample outdoor seating on their adjacent terraces.
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