Don’t be fooled by the clean, no-frills setup at this Bucktown bistro, Chef Sean Parr’s menu is complex and downright experimental at times (wagyu tartare, duck-fat fries). At brunch time, things take a more low-key, but equally satisfying turn with smoked ham benedict, braised pork chilaquiles, and a pork-broth noodle situation hilariously called the hangover breakfast. The sprawling second floor is reserved for private parties of up to 75 people. There are two other arrivals from the same company, which both justify a visit: Balena and Formento’s.

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