You know exactly what to expect at this kind-of kitschy, family-owned establishment, and that’s the best steak-frites in town, topped with buttery, herby secret sauce. That’s it, and it’s worth lining up for—this is a no-reservations locale. Touristy as it is—locations have opened in London and New York—it remains a local’s mainstay, proof of its excellent quality. There are now locations in the 8th and 6th, too.

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