Travel

11th & 12th Arrondissement Restaurants

Restaurant neighborhood
Le Chateaubriand
129 Avenue Parmentier, 11th
The dining room might not look like all that much, but this is one of those restaurants that changes how people think about food. Chef Inaki Aizpitarte, a pioneer in Paris’s neo-bistro scene, deconstructs traditional French dishes and reassembles them in wildly inventive, globally influenced ways. Despite the kitchen fireworks, it never feels pretentious here, which is probably why locals and tourists alike line up out the door to get a table (they only take reservations for the first seating).
11th & 12th Arrondissement
Le Servan
32 Rue Saint-Maur, 11th
Parisian dining has a reputation for being a little stodgy at times, what with the ubiquitous gilded interiors and price fixe-only menu—but at Le Servan in the 11th, you’ll find neither. Instead, chef Tatiana Levha, and her sister, Katia, offer up a short but sweet a la carte menu of Asian-inspired classics that changes pretty much daily. As for decor, it’s all neutral, with a brass-top bar. Walk-ins fare well at lunch, but make a reservation for dinner.
11th & 12th Arrondissement
Ober Mamma
107 Blvd. Richard Lenoir, 11th
A true trattoria in the middle of Paris—great platters of antipasti, thin-crust pizzas, and surprisingly big bowls of house-made pasta (definitely not the skimpy starter size, these are mains). The interior immediately suggests a good time—with long electric blue leather benches running the length of the walls, offset by yellow table mats on quintessentially Parisian roundtables. Expect a tight squeeze, this place is perpetually packed with locals downing glasses of sparkling Lambrusco and rounding off with a few bites of the sublime tiramisu.
11th & 12th Arrondissement
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