While the word fusion might not have the best connotations these days (conjuring up visions of poor attempts at mixing cuisines back in the ’90s) at Modern Pantry the Kiwi chef Anna Hansen is doing a lot to change that. She liberally mixes modern British touches with Indian and her native antipodean ingredients to create a lovely, seasonal all-day menu and a phenomenal brunch, that includes coconut and cassava waffles and a Persian chicken burger that’s not to be missed. A meal at either of her restaurants—the second Modern Pantry just opened on Finsbury Square, where the décor is much splashier—is a delight, and for special occasions you can take over the private dining room in either location, both decked out in wooden tables covered in white tablecloths in Hansen’s trademark, simple style.

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