Ask for Luigi has all the hallmarks of an old-school Italian joint—no reservations accepted, a cozy, unfussy interior of simple wooden tables and chairs, and the signature checkerboard floor. The pasta has that indescribably fresh flavor that can only be achieved by being hand-made daily, in-house. The mom-and-pop vibe encourages diners to take their time and go for the three full courses. Expect indulgent but classic pairings like oxtail risotto topped with bone marrow, or crab with fennel. Don’t forget to do as the Italians do and have wine with dinner, then grappa and an espresso (or two) to finish.

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