Travel

A nineteenth-century eccentric with a heart of gold, Charles “Joe Beef” McKiernan is something of a local legend, so it makes sense that one of the city’s best protein-centric restaurants be named after him. The snug, dimly lit dining rooms border on kitschy (chalkboard menus, the occasional taxidermied bison head), but the wine selection and menu are as serious as it gets: steaks, Cornish hen, or lobster spaghetti if meat isn’t your thing, washed down with a glass of good, biodynamic red. Fair warning: Reservations are hard to come by, so plan ahead.

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