Travel

This place lives up to its name, especially if you order the ten-course tasting menu: It includes three-grain risotto with kale sauce and lotus root, grilled squid with house-made curry and tomatoes, and “the nest,” a house specialty of a slow-cooked egg atop a bed of crispy noodles. You’ll finish with light butter cookies in the shape of leaves. The presentation is impressive; everything is served to symbolize or replicate something from nature. And because the menu changes with the season, everything is extremely fresh. It’s a bit of a drive south of the city, so be sure to make a reservation. The inventive, healthy food is worth the trek.

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