Hugo Ortega solidifies his status as a city treasure with Xochi (his 2017 follow-up to Caracol), built with his wife to represent the diversity of Oaxacan cuisine. Expect zero compromises on tradition—masas, tortillas, chocolates, cheeses, and moles are all house-made. What’s imported are the authentic Oaxacan coffee beans, impossible to find anywhere else. The menu may be intimidating, but a short-course tasting of four moles of your choice and a platter of tortillas is a great place to start. The chichilo mole is an easy favorite, but consider the chaicatana, mixed with dried flying ants. Then delve into the antojitos for a taste of goat tacos or tlayudas, an Oaxacan street food of thin, fried tortilla, covered in beans, lettuce, meat, cheese, and salsa.

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