The opening of The Grill was a little bittersweet for some New Yorkers (given the location’s previous identity as the legendary Four Seasons, which re-opens a few blocks away later this year), but as major fans of Mario Carbone, we were supportive of this changing of the guard. Nostalgics will find comfort in the fact that the interior is relatively unchanged (many elements, including the famous Lippold sculptures over the bar, are relevant to the history of the Mies Van der Rohe-designed Seagram building and landmarked by the city) and that the overall vibe honors the expense-account, power-player reputation of its past. So does Carbone’s menu, which leans on old-school items like oysters, crabcakes, a ridiculously good Crab Louie salad, and steaks that you can literally choose from the waiter’s tray. The classic cocktail list reads like something out of The Great Gatsby–new regulars order the gin martini, a Manhattan, or a feminine, delicate grasshopper.

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