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The first thing to know about this airy, minimalist Mexican restaurant is that it’s a “no avocado zone.” Instead, you get chef Gerardo Gonzalez’s version of guacamole—chickpeas, moringa, pickled onions, and roasted garlic, a brunch dish named This Is Not Avocado Toast. The second thing to know is that you won’t miss avocados for a minute: There are plenty of delicious options. (Take note of the aguas frescas and the vegan Caesar salad.)

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