Rich Torris’s restaurant group first got attention for Torrisi, a (now-closed) Italian joint that re-imagined classic dishes. As its name suggests, their second venture, Dirty French, does the same for French food. The thing to order is definitely the mille-feuille (it’s a riff on the original dish that substitutes paper-thin mushrooms for puff pastry), but the whole menu—and, by the way, wine list—is excellent. The quirky décor is imbued in every part of the experience, from Bruce High Quality Foundation sculptures to frilly antique serving trays. You’ll only need a group of 30 to justify an entire buy-out of the space, which gets really dolled up around the holidays.

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