With just 20 counter seats to fill and a strict omakase-only rule, there’s no doubt that Chefs Nick Kim and Jimmy Lau (both of Neta fame) are aiming to attract legit sushi aficionados. And rightfully so: The $195 kaiseki features both sushi and such inventive dishes as uni risotto, toro with caviar, and lobster with smoked bacon. The (slightly) more reasonable $155 sushi tasting is another option. But the food is excellent—well worth the hefty price tag—and the dimly lit, exposed brick space makes for a very cool atmosphere.

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