Despite the Chinese characters on the awning outside, stepping through the olive green French doors at Kiki’s on tiny Division Street, near the border of Chinatown and LES, sort of feels like you’re walking into a taverna in Greece. The vibe is part local, part hipster, all fun; and the food—from grilled octopus to Greek salad, tzatziki, and Melitzanosalata (eggplant mash)—is simply done and very good.

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